View Full Version : Very frustrated with Ridgid sawzall performance!
YoteKllr
03-20-2007, 07:27 PM
I got the Ridgid sawzall last x-mas and haven't really used cause I've had access to others until now. I've tried to use it two or three times now and it is absolutely worthless! I can't find a blade that will stay in it. It throws blades as soon as it starts cutting, and its BRAND NEW. Anyone please tell me there is a way to adjust or fix this without sending it in for who knows how long to get "fixed" and have to be without. Thanks for any help.
Woussko
03-20-2007, 10:47 PM
Try this and please let me know if it helps.
A) If you have compresed air, blast out any dirt in the blade clamp
B) If you have some WD40 try a good squirt in the blade clamp and then clean up with a paper towel. WD40 will help clean and lube it.
C) Take a few blades and remove all of the paint on the shank end. This can be done in several ways but be careful not to get hurt. I have had paint issues with them in a real Milwaukee Sawzall before. Fine sandpaper or a small fine wire brush works pretty well. You might try chemical paint remover or strong carb cleaner if you have any. Please do not try burning it off. You'll de-temper the blade.
D) If you have access to either a 3.7mm or #27 twist drill use it to ream the hole in the shank end of the blade. If the hole is blocked with paint or just undersized the locking pin in the blade clamp <aka> chuck won't go through and the blade will eject.
I know all of this is a PITA but sometimes it's worth it. I would just try it with one or two blades and see if it helps.
Note: I have updated this post.
I would do both A & B together first and see if it helps.
If that doesn't work, either try C & D or try some other blades of another brand if you have or can get them easy.
The Wood Meister
03-20-2007, 11:19 PM
Glad both my DeWalts will take a blade first shot and keep going until I either wear out or the job is done!
If I had to do all of that to make a recip saw work, it would be on eBay in a flash! LOL
Mark
Newman
03-21-2007, 03:04 AM
Never had such an issue with my Milwaukee.
Newman
03-21-2007, 03:16 AM
Nor my Bosch, nor my Hitachi...:p
ump107
03-21-2007, 04:34 AM
I think this is an issue reserved for the tool less blade change reciprocating saws. I have the Ridgid reciprocating saw and only had the problem you described with cheap Cummings blades, they usually have a heavy coat of paint on the blade and the whole is clogged or has a large amount of pant in it. What brand blades are you using? One thing to do is what Woussko had said is ensure the hole on the end of the blade is clear I have seen the blades come out of many saws Dewalt, Porter-cable, Milwaukee usually when I get a Bunch of blades before I put them with my saw I will ensure that the holes are all clear and when I place the blade in the saw I will give it a good tug (saw unplugged of course) with my gloved hand, if I do this I usually have no problems.
Newman
03-21-2007, 07:06 AM
ump107 brings up a good point. Some brands of blades are not the highest quality and all it takes is for the paint to be too heavy, or a partially plugged hole in the shank.
I always use Milwaukee, Dewalt, or Bosch blades and have never had an issue with any of them. I have had one Milwaukee metal cutting blade slip out of my Hitachi, but that was because I was way too hard on it and the hole in the blade got tweaked. :eek:
I can see how a crappy blade would give you lots of grief.
garager
03-21-2007, 07:17 AM
Milwaukee "the ax" blades, thats all I'll ever buy, teeth will last, I use DeWalt sawzall and never had problems w/the blades not fitting.
Woussko
03-21-2007, 01:09 PM
The Milwaukee "AX" blades are very good ones for sure when it comes to cutting wood. For steel, I like Lenox Gold or Milwaukee "Torch". I remember the days of having a set screw and hex key (Allen Wrench) for the blade clamps. Anymore most are tooless and must be kept clean and lubed for them to really work right. I wonder if the Milwaukee blade clamp (their good newest version) could be installed on a Ridgid saw.
YoteKllr: Which model do you have?
garager
03-21-2007, 07:34 PM
The Milwaukee "AX" blades are very good ones for sure when it comes to cutting wood. For steel, I like Lenox Gold or Milwaukee "Torch". I remember the days of having a set screw and hex key (Allen Wrench) for the blade clamps. Anymore most are tooless and must be kept clean and lubed for them to really work right. I wonder if the Milwaukee blade clamp (their good newest version) could be installed on a Ridgid saw.
YoteKllr: Which model do you have?
Remember the days, come on now it wasn't that long ago. I still have 2 of those and only 1 quick release. Milwaukee (the ax) bi metal blades is my preferred choice, but I tell you what, I'll pick up a package of Lenox gold this weekend and put them through the test next week, the Milwaukee torch I'll try later, these blades are not cheap. In fact I'll go see if Amazon.com has them on sale this week when I'm done here. I'll let you know what I think of those blades Woussko, I'm always interested in new things, haven't tried them yet but I will. Thanks for that info, the longer those blades last the less I have to spend. Save $$$$$$
Woussko, I'm, back after looking at these, are these the ones you use? Almost $10.00 each, not cheap at all.
http://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Gold-960G-Titanium-Demolition/dp/B0009MZJA0/ref=sr_1_11/104-2835112-0722330?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1174524669&sr=1-11
YoteKllr
03-21-2007, 09:09 PM
Thank you guys for the advice. My sawzall is the tooless blade change kind...not sure model #, its out in the pickup. It is brand new so there shouldn't be any dust or dirt in there. I tried about 6 different blades, some have been used quite a bit in another sawzall, all Milwaukee blades "Ax" and "torch" I tugged on them all pretty hard by hand and couldn't get them to come out but as soon as I tried to cut they would come out. I will try you guys' suggestions though. Thanks for your time. I'll let ya know if it works for me.
Woussko
03-21-2007, 09:26 PM
Garanger
That series, but I normally use the 14 or 18 tooth and 6 inch length. I only use them for cutting tuff steel as the Lenox Gold are costly, but the ones I use aren't quite that bad. Below are some numbers for the ones I've used and like. Using a Gold blade for regular wood cutting IMO is a bit silly and they do cost too much. The AX works fine for that.
6114G and 6118G
This will get you their catalog on Gold series reciprocating saw blades.
http://www.lenoxsaw.com/images/catalog/recipgold.pdf
Site of a dealer I like to use for tools and accessories.
http://coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/lenox/lenox-gold-blades.htm?L+coastest+dzkx5450ff650365+1174614054
Same dealer but main part for LENOX products. I really like the bi-metal hole saws too and I need to say that Milwaukee hole saws are pretty good as well.
http://coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/lenox/lenox.htm?L+coastest+dzkx5450ff650365+1174614206
For great blades for Jig Saws, I love Bosch blades. Please look here.
http://coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/bosch/jigsaw-blades.htm?L+coastest+dzkx5450ff650365+1174617624
I hope this info is helpful to many people.
The Wood Meister
03-21-2007, 11:53 PM
What is this "tool-less" blade change you speak of? Is it some new Star Trek gizmo? Both my DeWalts have hex keys!!! You mean there is something new and I missed it?
Mark
Woussko
03-22-2007, 12:12 AM
TWM
Take a look at a new Milwaukee or for that matter about any brand of nice new reciprocating saw. The blade clamp has a rotating collar you turn to insert or remove the blade. Let go of the collar and it should snap (spring action) to the locked position. Bye Bye Hex Keys :D Sometimes I like the old type better. Less problems unless you loose the hex key and really need it. :eek:
Newman
03-22-2007, 12:22 AM
What is this "tool-less" blade change you speak of? Is it some new Star Trek gizmo? Both my DeWalts have hex keys!!! You mean there is something new and I missed it?
Mark
Have you been under a rock man? :o
Newman
03-22-2007, 12:24 AM
I like the Lenox blades too. I've used the Bosch blades and they're great like their jig saw blades - made in Switzerland ;)
jbergstrom
03-22-2007, 05:23 AM
What is this "tool-less" blade change you speak of? Is it some new Star Trek gizmo? Both my DeWalts have hex keys!!! You mean there is something new and I missed it?
Mark
Mark this is what the latest Dewalts look like:)
This is the one I have ->
Dewalt 10 amp DW304PK (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=8339)
Lever-action keyless blade clamp for quick and easy blade changing...
Cheers!
ump107
03-23-2007, 02:48 AM
Both my corded Ridgid and my cordless Ryobi have the Lever action blade change.
The Lenox Fire Rescue blades are the ones that I now use most, the Bosch seem ok but I've dulled them quickly. The Lenox lasts quite a while and I rarely have any problems with them. I have looked at the Lenox Gold blades and I am waiting for my Free one to come in the mail to try.
plumbdog10
03-24-2007, 09:53 PM
Never had such an issue with my Milwaukee.
Same here, Newman. I once owned a Ridgid cordless and had the same problem, plus more.
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