View Full Version : Thread 3" pipe in field
opcon
04-12-2007, 04:19 PM
Is it possible to thread 3" pipe in the field in position with either a hand held electric or portable manual pipe threader? I haven't been able to find one.
biscuit
04-12-2007, 04:41 PM
Yes you can, but its expensive, big time!
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Geared-Receding-Threaders/index.htm
I believe the model our guys use is the 141 or something like that. I believe you can use it with a ratchet handle or with a power threader like the 700 series.
Hope this helps.
Oh, I thing the geared head alone is around $2000.00 give or take a little.
Regards,
yes the 141 will do it and there is a ratchet handle, or an adaptor for the power threader, like the Ridgid's 700, or Rothenbergers Mini-Collins.
there is also a draw bar that can be used to power it off of some of RIdgid's threading machines.
There heavy, in the 100 pound range.
The older JP threader, is similar, but you would need a set of dies for ever pipe size, and the 141, uses one set of dies that adjust to the pipe size, also there is a clutch device in the 141, that will help keep it from jamming if you don't stop threading when one should.
basically the rear of the unit clamps on to the end of the pipe, and then the front section is driven by gear reduction and screws on and threads the end of the pipe,
on page 13 of the 535 threading machine gives some information on the 141. and on 11 of the 300 threading machine. (the manuals page number not the pdf page number)
http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/C8434FAF2EB84976B347184DB68BC4E3/940-600-015.10_300_Power_Drive_Man.pdf
http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/81549492C3504169AD6C53846925F5E9/999-998-021.10_535A_Threading_Machine_Man.pdf
If you want used, you can check EBay they show up there regularly, between $500 and $1000 is the usually EBay price on them. the ratchet handles from $25 to $100. Need to watch the shipping costs.
HVAC HAWK
04-12-2007, 08:11 PM
get a welder to weld a 3" nipple on it
faster and cheaper
ToUtahNow
04-12-2007, 08:20 PM
I have drive lines with universal joints which I can drive my 141 with. One end goes on the 141 and the other end goes into one of my 300s. It is an expensive way to go if you are only going to cut a few threads. It also can be real dangerous if you do not know what you are doing. You may want to consider welding a companion flange on.
Mark
plumbdog10
04-12-2007, 09:17 PM
Is it possible to thread 3" pipe in the field in position with either a hand held electric or portable manual pipe threader? I haven't been able to find one.
Let's talk about in the field. Are you talking about threading overhead, or in a trench, or just onsite?
drtyhands
04-12-2007, 10:11 PM
get a welder to weld a 3" nipple on it
faster and cheaper
I'm starting to see more and more smaller shops going to the welded gas system for pipe larger than 2" here in Calif.
PLUMBER RICK
04-13-2007, 12:57 AM
we would prefab 2.5'' - 4'' in our shop. never in the field.
anything larger than 4'' was either converted to med. pressure to downsize the pipe or welded. 4'' was a pita to work with threads. we even lubed the hangers to cut friction for wrenching.
ps. i don't own a 141, or a 161. and i own everything:confused: at least i thought i owned everything:rolleyes:
rick.
ToUtahNow
04-13-2007, 08:58 AM
ps. i don't own a 141, or a 161. and i own everything:confused: at least i thought i owned everything:rolleyes:
rick.
Do you want to buy some? :D
plumbdog10
04-13-2007, 10:07 PM
I'd like to hear more about the problem. Most of the posts are accurate, but if you re-post with:
What type of pipe are you using?
What is the pipe used for?
Where is the pipe, in the air, underground, etc. I might be able to give an alternative that is easier. Maybe not. But you might as well try.
Bob D.
04-13-2007, 10:26 PM
Dog, he says "in position" which makes me think its a stub up through the floor or its in the overhead, but that is just a guess based on the wording he used.
I would like to know what the process is along with the answers to Dogs questions. Haven't done much threading over 2" in a long time. It's mostly welded with an occasional TOE nipple welded on to adapt to a threaded connection or use flanges
ToUtahNow
04-13-2007, 11:23 PM
I'd like to hear more about the problem. Most of the posts are accurate, but if you re-post with:
What type of pipe are you using?
What is the pipe used for?
Where is the pipe, in the air, underground, etc. I might be able to give an alternative that is easier. Maybe not. But you might as well try.
Point well taken.
plumbdog10
04-14-2007, 09:55 AM
What I was refering to is that there may be an alternative to threading, depending on his situation.
If it absolutly needs to be threaded, and it's in a ceiling, underground, or sticking out of the floor, then your only option would be Utah (and other's) method of using a geared threader. As mentioned by Utah, you can use a Ridgid power head to turn it, or if you have alot of spare time you can hand crank it.
But,
1) Can you back the piece out, and thread it?
2) Is this just one joint? If it is alot of joints, I'm going with Hawk and Bob, with welding.
3) What is this pipe used for? If it's not a pressure line use the appropriate no hub band and forget it.
4) If it's water I've used a Roust-a-Bout coupling, which is made by Victolic.
Without knowing the situation it kind of hard to help.
HVAC HAWK
04-15-2007, 01:57 PM
I'm starting to see more and more smaller shops going to the welded gas system for pipe larger than 2" here in Calif.
we weld all gas lines that are over 2" and gas line in side a building with pressure over 1 pound .
if it is over 1 pound and it is on a roof we will thread it .:)
opcon
04-17-2007, 10:38 PM
get a welder to weld a 3" nipple on it
faster and cheaper
No can do. This is in a gas plant and the owners won't let us weld--no hot work. That's why they want us to thread.
Thanks for the reply.
opcon
04-17-2007, 10:41 PM
What I was refering to is that there may be an alternative to threading, depending on his situation.
If it absolutly needs to be threaded, and it's in a ceiling, underground, or sticking out of the floor, then your only option would be Utah (and other's) method of using a geared threader. As mentioned by Utah, you can use a Ridgid power head to turn it, or if you have alot of spare time you can hand crank it.
But,
1) Can you back the piece out, and thread it?
2) Is this just one joint? If it is alot of joints, I'm going with Hawk and Bob, with welding.
3) What is this pipe used for? If it's not a pressure line use the appropriate no hub band and forget it.
4) If it's water I've used a Roust-a-Bout coupling, which is made by Victolic.
Without knowing the situation it kind of hard to help.
This is one joint in an already ALL-welded system. "In-position" refere to the fact that the pipe is fixed, can not be rolled, is horizontal, next to the ground, on existing pipe.
opcon
04-17-2007, 10:44 PM
Let's talk about in the field. Are you talking about threading overhead, or in a trench, or just onsite?
This is on-site at an owners liquid gasoline bulk tank farm. This particular system can not be isolated with a valve, or blind flange. Their safety policies do not allow nitrogen purging, dry ice, plumbers plugs, etc. to isolate the sytem to weld on it. They have told us that if we could thread the 3" pipe then we could make the tie-in and get the job. But I don't have some of the equipment reported above.
plumbdog10
04-17-2007, 11:02 PM
This is on-site at an owners liquid gasoline bulk tank farm. This particular system can not be isolated with a valve, or blind flange. Their safety policies do not allow nitrogen purging, dry ice, plumbers plugs, etc. to isolate the sytem to weld on it. They have told us that if we could thread the 3" pipe then we could make the tie-in and get the job. But I don't have some of the equipment reported above.
If you don't have the equipment I would walk away unless you plan to use it again. Understanding your situation I would have to say that the proceedures outlined by Utah, and others would be your only option. But, walking away from a job you're not set up for is no disgrace---it's smart. I'm sure you have alot of other jobs available that will make you money.
look into renting one and try it out to see if you can do the job
plumbdog10
04-18-2007, 09:40 PM
look into renting one and try it out to see if you can do the job
Jeff,
If you are a pro, like I think opcon is (otherwise he wouldn't have asked), then you don't take on jobs you're not prepared for and see how they turn out.
HVAC HAWK
04-19-2007, 06:35 PM
has Any one used the Geared Threader 141 or 161 by hand . it may take a long time and a long handle on the tool you use to the part that you put the drive shaft on but it might work ??
ToUtahNow
04-19-2007, 08:32 PM
has Any one used the Geared Threader 141 or 161 by hand . it may take a long time and a long handle on the tool you use to the part that you put the drive shaft on but it might work ??
I've used a hand ratchet with my 141 but it has been a long time. It was not physically hard to do but it took forever.
Mark
plumbdog10
04-19-2007, 09:44 PM
has Any one used the Geared Threader 141 or 161 by hand . it may take a long time and a long handle on the tool you use to the part that you put the drive shaft on but it might work ??
I've used one, and Utah's right---it takes a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooog time.
PLUMBER RICK
04-19-2007, 10:24 PM
i don't own a 141:rolleyes: , but i do own the adapter for the 700 to drive the square drive.
i guess you need to start somewhere:D also own a set of new 141 dies. but no 141. i guess i'm putting the cart before the horse;)
rick.
ToUtahNow
04-19-2007, 10:43 PM
i don't own a 141:rolleyes: , but i do own the adapter for the 700 to drive the square drive.
i guess you need to start somewhere:D also own a set of new 141 dies. but no 141. i guess i'm putting the cart before the horse;)
rick.
Rick,
When you are ready to buy a 141 I have a freshly rebuilt one which was only used on a dozen or so threaded ends.
Mark
PLUMBER RICK
04-19-2007, 11:49 PM
last time i checked, i havn't needed to thread 2.5''- 4'' yet. when i do, i'll give you a call. you can also show me how to use it, and help me lift the beast:eek:
i would rather have your k-60;)
thanks,
rick.
HVAC HAWK
04-20-2007, 07:21 PM
so there you go opcon you can thread it in place
plumbdog10
04-20-2007, 07:43 PM
so there you go opcon you can thread it in place
Hawk,
Try to stay up with the program. It was established by myself, Utah, and others that it can be done without power. But the question is wether it's worth it.
drtyhands
04-20-2007, 08:58 PM
Hawk,
Try to stay up with the program. It was established by myself, Utah, and others that it can be done without power. But the question is wether it's worth it.
Dog,
I think Hawk is up with the program,he may have been summarizing to see if the inquiring poster was still following.
:)
had you use cresent wrench once it took a long time and was i bad at are warehouse man when i was done. Dog i meant for him to rent and use it in his shop before taking the job jeff
drtyhands
04-20-2007, 11:09 PM
had you use cresent wrench once it took a long time and was i bad at are warehouse man when i was done. Dog i meant for him to rent and use it in his shop before taking the job jeff
Jeff,thats what I love about these guys,I can ask them,as you can as well,anything pertaining to my trade and can feel very confident they can give me insight to where I wouldn't have to invest the energy in renting and practicing before I submit my proposal to customer:)
HVAC HAWK
04-21-2007, 06:49 PM
Dog,
I think Hawk is up with the program,he may have been summarizing to see if the inquiring poster was still following.
:)
ya thats it :D
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