TS3650 motor

[cmccarter]

DOes anyone make a 2hp 220 motor that will replace the standard 1.5 one in the TS3650

[smelly]

:D out of curiositiy, why more power?

[hewood]

I haven't checked, but I"m sure you could find a good one from several manufactureres...Baldor, Leeson, WEG, Marathon, etc.

[Clato]

:D out of curiositiy, why more power?

Thats so when it kicks back it'll drive the splinter of wood right through the person handling it :( .

On the other hand, a really good blade should slice through just about anything you'd toss at it with the current setup.


Clato

[zeker]

The motor on the TS3650 can easlily be converted to 240 V. I just switched mine over and it has all the power I'll ever need.

[oldslowchevy]

Thats so when it kicks back it'll drive the splinter of wood right through the person handling it :( .

On the other hand, a really good blade should slice through just about anything you'd toss at it with the current setup.


Clato



2 hp isn't that much so many saws hevy 3, 4 and even 5 hp

[Davet]

Here a Couple of websites:

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/woodwork_motors.htm
http://woodworker.com/Motors.htm

Try a Tsc or Family Farm Center if you have one in your area

[cmccarter]

I was just wondering. I am getting my 3650 next week and will be cutting some fairly thick hardwoods. Mahogany, walnut as well as some ebony & cocobolo. thought maybe a bit beefier motor night be an asset

[hewood]

I was just wondering. I am getting my 3650 next week and will be cutting some fairly thick hardwoods. Mahogany, walnut as well as some ebony & cocobolo. thought maybe a bit beefier motor night be an asset

It may be cheaper in the long run and alot easier to just get a beefier saw from the start...the right tool for the job will walk thru just about anything you need day in and day out. Something like a Grizzly 1023 or Steel City 35606 come with real 3hp motors (not "max developed hp") and cost in the $900-$1000 range. A good Baldor or Leeson 2hp motor will likely run near $300 for the motor alone, and there's no guarantee the undercarriage or the belt will handle the added weight and torque, though they probably will.

http://steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=12&tool=35606
http://steelcitytoolworks.com/products/35606/35606_closeup.jpg

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1023sl
http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023sl.jpg

[oldslowchevy]

i agre with heywood on this you buy a 3650 at oh lets say $450 then another $2-300 on the motor (witch voids the warrenty) where you could spend anothe $100- 300 more and get a saw that with proper care will give every thing you want and then some. also to me the steel city looks just like the delta unisaw witch is a very proven design

[Clato]

I will also go with OSC and Hewood, if you're going to be doing a LOT of the heavy hardwood stuff then a heavier machine is best. I was thinking along the lines of infrequent periods of heavy cutting. :confused:

BTW, am I the only one on this forum with a 2412? Of course I have a 3624 rip fence setup which is great. I've been having it for a few years now and really like the saw. Currently I'm on the down side of building a small lake house and its really getting a workout. Of course I'm not building cabinets yet with it but I've gotten really creative with making my own trim.

Clato

[Woodywoodchuck]

I have ripped 16/4 white oak on it and stopped the blade several times.
I have also ripped 16/4 maple 7 feet long and stopped the blade several times on 120v. Right now she's cooling down, the breaker on motor wont reset yet.Has anyone else thats reading this post have there motor overheat?

[BadgerDave]

Is your blade sharp? Are you using a ripping blade? Are you feeding the stock too quickly? One or more of those factors is probably the cause of your motor stopping and over heating than the motor itself not being able to handle the load.

[hewood]

I have ripped 16/4 white oak on it and stopped the blade several times.
I have also ripped 16/4 maple 7 feet long and stopped the blade several times on 120v. Right now she's cooling down, the breaker on motor wont reset yet.Has anyone else thats reading this post have there motor overheat?

Alignment and blade selection are huge factors in a saw's performance. So is whether or not the stock flat and straight. 16/4 material is gonna tax just about any saw, but it should cut given the right circumstances.

Dave's got it right...you should be using a good quality 24T thin kerf blade for 16/4 material. The stock should be flat and straight, you should have a splitter in place, and the alignment would need to be spot on. A bigger saw is more forgiving but is a lot more expensive than checking the basics.

[Woodywoodchuck]

I think I have a high tooth per inch Freud Diablo on it. Like 40 or 50 tooth.I need something that will rip out more chips hah?
The maple wasnt surfaced yet, it was 11 inch wide and my jointer only 8 so I was ripping down to 9 inch and then resawing, then planing then jointing.

Thanks

[hewood]

I think I have a high tooth per inch Freud Diablo on it. Like 40 or 50 tooth.I need something that will rip out more chips hah?
The maple wasnt surfaced yet, it was 11 inch wide and my jointer only 8 so I was ripping down to 9 inch and then resawing, then planing then jointing.

Thanks

You can get a good Leitz/Irwn German made 24T FTG TK ripper for $10 plus actual shipping from a guy named Mike Jackson at Woodnet.net. Search the username function for "XCESSTOOLING" in the SwapnSell forum for his listing. Or HD will have the 24T Diablo for ~ $27. That's a start.