Fine thread Hose Bibb???

[RedRado03]

I had a Hose bibb that was dripping pretty good. Went and picked up a couple 3/4" hose bibbs to replace it and after finally being able to get it off:mad:, I found out that I had fine thread and looks nothing like the one I bought. I assume that when my house was built 2 years ago that they sodered my faucet on and even filled in with mortar that I will never be able to remove it without extra costs to replace it with a course threaded one. Is this normal?? Where do I buy these things? What will I need to do if I damaged the thread taking it off?

[westcoastplumber]

I had a Hose bibb that was dripping pretty good. Went and picked up a couple 3/4" hose bibbs to replace it and after finally being able to get it off:mad:, I found out that I had fine thread and looks nothing like the one I bought. I assume that when my house was built 2 years ago that they sodered my faucet on and even filled in with mortar that I will never be able to remove it without extra costs to replace it with a course threaded one. Is this normal?? Where do I buy these things? What will I need to do if I damaged the thread taking it off?
pls post a picture!!

[BAPlumber]

Is this an outside hosebib or maybe a laundry bib?

[RedRado03]

Outside. hold on a sec for a pic.

[PLUMBER RICK]

sounds like the thread from a factory installed vacuum breaker. the vacuum breaker was removed and this left you a very fine larger than normal thread.

a picture will confirm this.

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

I'm wondering if it is the bibb or is it the VB he is replacing?

[PLUMBER RICK]

I'm wondering if it is the bibb or is it the VB he is replacing?

deja vu:confused:

or 2 minds that think alike;)

rick.

[plumbdog10]

But does not a vacuum-breaker have hose threads, which have less threads per inch than a pipe thread?

[RedRado03]

Im sorry guys. I'm having trouble posting the pic.

[RedRado03]

OK. let me know if you need a better pic.

[ToUtahNow]

dog,

Some of the manufacturers have quit using the hose thread size VB to comply with the non-removable part of the code. When the plumber neglects to break-off the screw the VB is no longer non-removable.

Mark

[PLUMBER RICK]

But does not a vacuum-breaker have hose threads, which have less threads per inch than a pipe thread?

:confused: not sure of your question.

a factory installed v.b built into the hose bibb can be removed with some skill and be reinstalled with even more skill. the hose bibb is useless for connecting a hose to if the v.b. is removed.

i learned the hard way during years of new construction that soldered on hose bibbs and factory installed v.b are not the way to save money. i had many of v.b. to replace and service. much faster than shutting and draining the system.

dog where have you been hiding?

we got an election to run:D and a golf game to play;)

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

OK. let me know if you need a better pic.

Bingo that is the vaccum breaker not the hose bibb. If you can replace it , it will have to be from the same manufacturer.

Mark

[westcoastplumber]

OK. let me know if you need a better pic.
that's a vacum breaker,not hose bibb.Does the faucet leak when you have it turned off?was the set screw broken off in the vacuum breaker?sounds like it was,the hose bibb should be completly removed and new one istalled

[RedRado03]

Did I mess up by taking it off with my channel locks? How do I fix this?

[westcoastplumber]

Did I mess up by taking it off with my channel locks? How do I fix this?
replace the complete bibb

[RedRado03]

What is the hose bibb? Is this the faucet itself? I probably need a plumber now.

[PLUMBER RICK]

OK. let me know if you need a better pic.


just like i said. someone tried to remove a factory installed v.b. from the hose bibb.

your picture is very blurry/ but i can see what happened.

at this point, you will need to either reinstall all the parts, or install a complete new hose bibb. if you can find the same manufactor, you can rob all new parts from the replacement and not have to cut into the bricks:eek:

do your homework and shopping, it will save you a real p.i.t.a. job.

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

Maybe we should start over again and you can tell us why you were trying to remove it.

Was it leaking when the valve was off?

Was it only leaking when the hose was on?

Can you post a picture of the bibb so we can see why you think it will be hard to replace?

As westcoast posted your best option is likely to replace the bibb.

Mark

[RedRado03]

By the same manufacture, do you mean they have to look exactly the same? Can I find these at a Home Depot or Lowes?

[westcoastplumber]

By the same manufacture, do you mean they have to look exactly the same? Can I find these at a Home Depot or Lowes?
depends on the manufacturer

[ToUtahNow]

By the same manufacture, do you mean they have to look exactly the same? Can I find these at a Home Depot or Lowes?

The vaccum breaker is not meant to be removed from the bibb (faucet). The design is to make the bibb worthless if the vaccum breaker is removed. Now unless you find the identical bibb (not likely to be at Lowes or HD) you need to replace the entire bibb w/vaccum breaker.

Mark

[plumbdog10]

:confused: not sure of your question.

a factory installed v.b built into the hose bibb can be removed with some skill and be reinstalled with even more skill. the hose bibb is useless for connecting a hose to if the v.b. is removed.

i learned the hard way during years of new construction that soldered on hose bibbs and factory installed v.b are not the way to save money. i had many of v.b. to replace and service. much faster than shutting and draining the system.

dog where have you been hiding?

we got an election to run:D and a golf game to play;)

rick.

I'm the dumb-*** here because I've not dealt with factory installed vacuum breakers, other than recessed type commercial hose bibs, which I assumed he didn't have. Are they making hose bibs such as these for residential applications?

You learn something (at least I do) every day on this forum.

[RedRado03]

I initially removed it because It was leaking when I had the water on and no matter what I did or what seal I used, I couldn't get it to stop.

[ToUtahNow]

I initially removed it because It was leaking when I had the water on and no matter what I did or what seal I used, I couldn't get it to stop.

Okay now we are getting some where. That is a poor picture but it looks like an Arrowhead Sill Cock. Can you see if there is an Arrowhead on the side?

Mark

[RedRado03]

So, should this have even been passed inspection when the house was built. Why would anybody want to install this set up. It makes no sence to me. WOW!!!

[gear junkie]

I know it's to late now but if you had this, you could leave your hose bibb all the way on and the shut it off from the new shut off valve. This only cost 5 bucks and is as easy as putting on a garden hose. Would this effect the vacuum breaker?

[RedRado03]

give me a sec.

[ToUtahNow]

So, should this have even been passed inspection when the house was built. Why would anybody want to install this set up. It makes no sence to me. WOW!!!

It is the proper installation and an upgrade to the old style.

What part of the country are you in and do you know what kind of water piping you have?

Mark

[RedRado03]

OK, Looks like there is a arrowhead design on each side with a made in the USA.

[ToUtahNow]

I know it's to late now but if you had this, you could leave your hose bibb all the way on and the shut it off from the new shut off valve. This only cost 5 bucks and is as easy as putting on a garden hose. Would this effect the vacuum breaker?

I don't think it was a leak I think his vaccum breaker was spraying water with a hose attached.

Mark

[RedRado03]

I live in central Texas and forgive me for my ignorance but, I believe that I have copper. Not really sure though.

[ToUtahNow]

OK, Looks like there is a arrowhead design on each side with a made in the USA.

Okay now you know the brand and it is a fairly common brand. If you can find the same sill cock you may be able to swap out the parts.

Mark

[PLUMBER RICK]

Okay now we are getting some where. That is a poor picture but it looks like an Arrowhead Sill Cock. Can you see if there is an Arrowhead on the side?

Mark


i say arrowhead too.
look for "ahb"

this is a very common brand out here.

by the way. it looks like this is a screwed on hose bibb. how would one solder a wall mount bibb?

dog, when v.b were first required here in los angeles early 1983 or so. i had to install hundreds of spring loaded aftermarket v.b. onto exisiting bibbs. then from that point on we would install hose bibbs with factory made v.b. on them. much less money than an aftermarket 2 piece design. problem was when a 1 pc. factory v.b went bad or had dirt in it. you had to fix it or drain the entire system and start fresh. not a simple or fast fix to start over.

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

I live in central Texas and forgive me for my ignorance but, I believe that I have copper. Not really sure though.

If you live in a area which gets frost you may have a frost-proof sill cock which has it's attachment point 4"-8" inside the wall. If it is just a standard sill cock and it is IPS you should be able to just unscrew the sill cock and replace it. Once you try to replace it you will be committed so consider your skill level before trying it.

Mark

[RedRado03]

OK. This may sound like a dumb question. How do I replace my sill cock without destroying my brick or drywall. There is about an half a inch of mortar between the sill and brick.

[RedRado03]

Plumbers are under rated:D.

[PLUMBER RICK]

I initially removed it because It was leaking when I had the water on and no matter what I did or what seal I used, I couldn't get it to stop.
the picture you posted is of a fip wall cock:eek:

meaning that it has a female iron pipe thread. very simple to unscrew and replace. just don't break it off in the wall:eek:

rick.

replace the entire faucet and you're good to go.

this has got to be the fastest and most responses to an issue here ever. 38 post in a matter of minutes. wow very impressive guys:)

[RedRado03]

Is there a particular method to this? clockwise, counter clockwise?

[BAPlumber]

this has got to be the fastest and most responses to an issue here ever. 38 post in a matter of minutes. wow very impressive guys:)

I think we're tired of reading and posting about flat rate, and want to get back to our real passion.:)

[ToUtahNow]

I think we're tired of reading and posting about flat rate, and want to get back to our real passion.:)

LOL - As funny as that was it was true.

Mark :p

[PLUMBER RICK]

Is there a particular method to this? clockwise, counter clockwise?

lefty loosy, righty tighty:D

turn it counterclockwise to unscrew.

use caution so as not to break it off in the wall.

personally, you might want to hire a pro. you already did a great job with id ing it. don't ruin it by breaking in the wall and having no water till it's fixed.


rick

another satisfied customer on the ridgid site:)

[ToUtahNow]

the picture you posted is of a fip wall cock:eek:

meaning that it has a female iron pipe thread. very simple to unscrew and replace. just don't break it off in the wall:eek:

rick.

replace the entire faucet and you're good to go.

this has got to be the fastest and most responses to an issue here ever. 38 post in a matter of minutes. wow very impressive guys:)

Not so quick Rick. The frost-proof sill cock looks identical and is available in both IPS and Copper. I think the connection on the frost-proof ranges from 4"-8".

Mark

[RedRado03]

I understand. I'm getting sick of thinking about it too. And I think its about that time to the bedroom and pursue my passion. I really appreciate all the posts and will definatley add this to my favorites. I'll let it be for now and try to unscrew it tomorrow and hope I dont bust a pipe.

Thanks ALL,

Mike

[PLUMBER RICK]

Not so quick Rick. The frost-proof sill cock looks identical and is available in both IPS and Copper. I think the connection on the frost-proof ranges from 4"-8".

Mark


not being an expert in frost proof since i live in sunny sourthern calif:D

i am looking at the handle position and would find it hard to believe it can be frost proof:confused:

what do you think mark:confused: you have cold weather in your neck of the woods and utah too:D

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

I think you may be right based on the no-kink design. I'm pretty certain it is just an IPS but if I don't add the disclaimer I will catch heck. :)

Mark

[PLUMBER RICK]

I think you may be right based on the no-kink design. I'm pretty certain it is just an IPS but if I don't add the disclaimer I will catch heck. :)

Mark
at least it's heck for you, i wouldn't hear the end of this if i told him it was simple and fool proof to unscrew from a brick wall.

i would catch s**t

rick.

[Aaron91]

Yes, that's your vacuum breaker but I don't understand our problem now, is it finding a new vacuum breaker?

[ToUtahNow]

Yes, that's your vacuum breaker but I don't understand our problem now, is it finding a new vacuum breaker?

He damaged is vacuum breaker while trying to replace it. Becuae it is an Arrowhead brand it is not a standard vacuum breaker. Now his option are to either buy a new sill cock and strip the vacuum breaked off or replace the entire sill cock with the new one.

Mark

[BHD]

When you replace it I would suggest using some pipe Dope on the threads of the pipe before you put the new one on, other wise you many end up with a small leak in the wall,
The reason I did not suggest tape is It may be hard to put Teflon tape on the pipe in the wall. if you can get to it the tape will work also.

[RedRado03]

So I chiseled away the mortar to see what I was working with today. I can see threads in between the sill and brick. I tried to turn it (gently) but the pipe is just twisting with it. To me it just looks like a copper pipe w/ threads. I dont even know if they make anything like that. So is this piece of pipe supposed to come out with it? What do I need to do if I cant get it to turn at the sill without that pipe moving with it?

[Bob D.]

Is this a frost-proof hydrant? Can you see what it looks like from the inside of the wall like from the basement or crawl space? You say threaded copper pipe I am thinking this might be brass (looks like copper as it is very close in color) pipe and part of a frost-proof wall hydrant as opposed to a hose bibb. There is probably some confusion here in terminology. Some areas of the country will refer to what I call a frost-proof hydrant as a hose bibb. To me a hose bibb is an angled globe valve with a hose thread on the spout and a flanged 3/4 or 1/2" FM pipe connection on the back.

I don't know whose web page this is but I just happened upon it first thing when I went searching just now. It just happens to show a hose bibb (first photo) and a hydrant (second photo).
http://home.flash.net/~carlton2/construc.htm

Notice the brass pipe used in the hydrant? Is this what you are saying is turning (or looks like it will turn) when you try to remove the valve?

[RedRado03]

I believe it is a arrowhead sillcock from the pictures online and guys in this post telling me. The pipe Im talking about is the one right behind the flange. I have posted a pic earlier in the post.

[ToUtahNow]

I believe it is a arrowhead sillcock from the pictures online and guys in this post telling me. The pipe Im talking about is the one right behind the flange. I have posted a pic earlier in the post.

It sounds like there might be a brass nipple attaching the sill cock to the piping in the wall. It would not be uncommon for the nipple to unscrew instead of the sill cock. If the plumber installed the pipes in the wall correctly the nipple should be able to be removed with the sill cock without the pipes in the wall moving.

Once you get the nipple with sill cock removed as a single piece you can unscrew the nipple from the sill cock and re use it with the new sill cock.

Mark

Disclaimer: If it is not really a nipple but a CXMIP adapter you might have to open the wall to make the repair.