PDA

View Full Version : Drum Traps/Can Traps


HouseOfAtlas
07-18-2007, 06:21 PM
What do you do when a tub has a drum trap? Do you attempt to try and bust off the cap and snake it? Or do you tell the home owner they need to replace it with a P-Trap?

gear junkie
07-18-2007, 08:02 PM
I tell them that due to the design I can't snake the line properly without taking off the lid and if I break the lid in the process that this is what it'll cost to install a ptrap and to snake the line. This way they understand the risk and know the cost upfront. PLEASE DO NOT TURN MY COMMENTS INTO A FLAT RATE DISCUSSION!

DuckButter
07-18-2007, 08:23 PM
..... PLEASE DO NOT TURN MY COMMENTS INTO A FLAT RATE DISCUSSION!

HAHAHAHAHAHA!

Aaron91
07-18-2007, 08:41 PM
It's like one of those huge waves coming, I can see it coming now, I'm running for cover! :eek:

All Clear Sewer
07-18-2007, 08:44 PM
cut it out ;)

westcoastplumber
07-18-2007, 09:30 PM
I had a similar job today, I had a kids toy stuck in the crown weir of a 11/2 tub trap, I crawled under the house, noticed the waste and overflow was extremely old, (some jerk replaced some drains in ABS, used a 11/2 trap adapter, instead of just replacing the old brass tubular w/o and a 11/2 no hub to fully complete the job correctly)

I notified the owner of the property that when I cut out the trap and santee, the w/o may break due to it's age, I furnished the customer the cost before hand and they were pleased, so I proceeded, as soon as I tried to un-do the overflow and take apart the tee on the w/o to get it out of the trap adapter, it broke.

Long story short, I removed the toy, re-installed the ABS santee and trap and installed a new ABS w/o.
T
he whole situation is so much better when you communicate with the customer first, about everything, they appreciate it and you appreciate not having a pain in the a** when the bill is presented.

PS: THIS IS IN NO WAY A FLAT RATE DISCUSSION;)

gear junkie
07-18-2007, 09:40 PM
Thanks Robert.

Clato
07-19-2007, 09:16 AM
I agree, change it! On all my houses whenever a problem comes up and the old can trap is there, no question it gets removed. If you don't the problem will come back and it won't be any easier the next time. Unless the customer is a real tightwad and tries to go cheap (I like to use the term "inexpensive" or "economically feasible":rolleyes:) replace it. I also like the idea of giving the estimated cost up front so they have an idea of what it will take. No that doesn't fall under the "flat rate" discussion because you know what it will take material wise and how long it will take you to do the job. It is a real life cost!

Clato

All Clear Sewer
07-19-2007, 02:37 PM
I had a similar job today, I had a kids toy stuck in the crown weir of a 11/2 tub trap, I crawled under the house, noticed the waste and overflow was extremely old, (some jerk replaced some drains in ABS, used a 11/2 trap adapter, instead of just replacing the old brass tubular w/o and a 11/2 no hub to fully complete the job correctly)

I notified the owner of the property that when I cut out the trap and santee, the w/o may break due to it's age, I furnished the customer the cost before hand and they were pleased, so I proceeded, as soon as I tried to un-do the overflow and take apart the tee on the w/o to get it out of the trap adapter, it broke.

Long story short, I removed the toy, re-installed the ABS santee and trap and installed a new ABS w/o.
T
he whole situation is so much better when you communicate with the customer first, about everything, they appreciate it and you appreciate not having a pain in the a** when the bill is presented.

PS: THIS IS IN NO WAY A FLAT RATE DISCUSSION;)

So what was the Flat Rate charge you qouted em???? ROTFLMAO :D

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 03:45 PM
So what was the Flat Rate charge you qouted em???? ROTFLMAO :D


I would like you to tell me what you think, then I will tell you what it cost. When coming up with the cost, keep in mind you will be lying in mud to do it.;) and I had to use my sawzall that goes 20 different directions to cut the shoe off, unable to uscrew it.:D

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 05:30 PM
I would like you to tell me what you think, then I will tell you what it cost. When coming up with the cost, keep in mind you will be lying in mud to do it.;) and I had to use my sawzall that goes 20 different directions to cut the shoe off, unable to uscrew it.:D

Get a 6"-10" piece of black mallable, cut a 1/4" notch in it on one end on two sides..flatten to the point that it fits into the drain snug enough for the notch to grab...use a pipe wrench wrapped in a towel to avoid chipping the tuib and crank away.
No need for a torch (which is a bad idea from the get-go on any tub)...works even on old nub style shoe's.

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 05:41 PM
Get a 6"-10" piece of black mallable, cut a 1/4" notch in it on one end on two sides..flatten to the point that it fits into the drain snug enough for the notch to grab...use a pipe wrench wrapped in a towel to avoid chipping the tuib and crank away.
No need for a torch (which is a bad idea from the get-go on any tub)...works even on old nub style shoe's.


Mr ducky, there wasn't anything to grab onto in the shoe, the "things" inside the shoe were not there;)

I have a tool, called a dumb bell, works great, when someone hasen't already tried it before.:D

the sawzall that goes 20 differrent directions is the porter cable, it adjust's alot of different ways so it will fit in tight spaces and between rafters etc.
http://www.tylertool.com/por97tigvara.html

TomSV650
07-19-2007, 05:53 PM
OK, being primary a drain cleaner and being that i've only done 5-6 waste and overflows(with help) how in the heck do you assemble a W/O by yourself?

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 06:15 PM
OK, being primary a drain cleaner and being that i've only done 5-6 waste and overflows(with help) how in the heck do you assemble a W/O by yourself?


Very easy buddy, after you remove the old shoe, drop the new trim piece in the bottom, go under the house, take the bottom of the shoe and hold is steady an d start the first thred, when you do, keep spinning, pull it down if it slips or use a flat head screw driver to push it against the rim of the tub outlet so you can screw it on, takes some practice but once you do it, it is easy. once you get the bottom show on, the rest is cake. hope this helps, wordy, maybe I'll make a video sometime:D:D $19.95 each, any one wanna place an order?

P.S. once your installed and tied to the drain, go back later and unscrew to add the putty, the gasket is already done from the beganinning

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 06:29 PM
Mr ducky, there wasn't anything to grab onto in the shoe, the "things" inside the shoe were not there;)

I have a tool, called a dumb bell, works great, when someone hasen't already tried it before.:D

the sawzall that goes 20 differrent directions is the porter cable, it adjust's alot of different ways so it will fit in tight spaces and between rafters etc.
http://www.tylertool.com/por97tigvara.html
Any plumber has the "dumb bell"tub tool!
It's all good till thhe aluminum strips!
I keep that piece of black mallable in the back of my truck for the really old rusted in place w/o's.

Aaron91
07-19-2007, 06:34 PM
Any of you guys use the Golden Tub Extractor Tool?

It's like a internal pipe wrench that fits on a 3/8" ratchet, it works real good.

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 06:36 PM
Any of you guys use the Golden Tub Extractor Tool?

It's like a internal pipe wrench that fits on a 3/8" ratchet, it works real good.

New item added to shopping list...good tip Aaron!
I'm assuming it's like an ID pipe wrench that tightens inside the diameter and grips?

Daplumherjr
07-19-2007, 06:55 PM
http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=144http://www.rectorseal.com/files/144/glndxtrctr.jpgIS this what you were talking about? Aaron

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 06:59 PM
Any of you guys use the Golden Tub Extractor Tool?

It's like a internal pipe wrench that fits on a 3/8" ratchet, it works real good.


that tool looks great aaron, only thing, when you spin it and it breaks the tube connecting the shoe to the tee, it will just spin the whole shoe around:eek:

It is on my list of things to buy, I'll let you know

PLUMBER RICK
07-19-2007, 07:00 PM
for the tenth time. this is how to safely remove a stripped shoe:D

use a dremel or it's bigger brother a die grinder. install a 1'' cut off wheel and cut it from inside the tub. no vibration and if you have a good wheel with a fiberglass core, it will be off in less than 1 minute. a sawzall can chip the enamel especially if you slip.

now robert, how will you make that video if you can't find tapes either:confused:

hope you're not too wine and cheesed up when you reply:D

thanks for the try. you saved me a trip as i was calling to tell you i was heading your way. at 6mpg it was a big savings. also checked i have 15 tapes still.;) good for another month.

rick.

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 07:02 PM
that tool looks great aaron, only thing, when you spin it and it breaks the tube connecting the shoe to the tee, it will just spin the whole shoe around:eek:

It is on my list of things to buy, I'll let you know

LOL!
I've had that happen once or twice.
Then ya wind up inserting a cresent wrench or 1/2" steel pipe into the stub below with something solid to brace it to.

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 07:04 PM
for the tenth time. this is how to safely remove a stripped shoe:D

use a dremel or it's bigger brother a die grinder. install a 1'' cut off wheel and cut it from inside the tub. no vibration and if you have a good wheel with a fiberglass core, it will be off in less than 1 minute. a sawzall can chip the enamel especially if you slip.

now robert, how will you make that video if you can't find tapes either:confused:

hope you're not too wine and cheesed up when you reply:D

thanks for the try. you saved me a trip as i was calling to tell you i was heading your way. at 6mpg it was a big savings. also checked i have 15 tapes still.;) good for another month.

rick.

I cut it from underneath using the sawzall I left the link too in my past post. I cut it between the tub and the shoe, where the rubber is. I remove it in approx 1-2 minutes, no problem, never tried the dremel or grinder, will have to put thought into that.

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 07:07 PM
I remember once a few years ago, I was in line at the supply house with 1/2 dozen other plumbers all talking about the correct way to plumb a house.
We all fully agreed on the exact same method.
And I'm the pope.

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 07:13 PM
I remember once a few years ago, I was in line at the supply house with 1/2 dozen other plumbers all talking about the correct way to plumb a house.
We all fully agreed on the exact same method.
And I'm the pope.


HAHAHAHA, ducky, you crack me up.;) you bring humor to truth:D

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 07:14 PM
I remember once a few years ago, I was in line at the supply house with 1/2 dozen other plumbers all talking about the correct way to plumb a house.
We all fully agreed on the exact same method.
And I'm the pope.


DISCLAIMER: The aforementioned individual is NOT the pope.

Aaron91
07-19-2007, 07:49 PM
Duck- Anytime, Yes sir that is the tool I was talking about. Sometimes it turns all the piping underneath, and sometimes it doesn't. Either way, it's still a wonderful, yet expensive(just bought mine the other day at Somerville for $53) lil tool. It grips extremely well.


Da- thats the one boss.

TomSV650
07-19-2007, 08:16 PM
Very easy buddy, after you remove the old shoe, drop the new trim piece in the bottom, go under the house, take the bottom of the shoe and hold is steady an d start the first thred, when you do, keep spinning, pull it down if it slips or use a flat head screw driver to push it against the rim of the tub outlet so you can screw it on, takes some practice but once you do it, it is easy. once you get the bottom show on, the rest is cake. hope this helps, wordy, maybe I'll make a video sometime:D:D $19.95 each, any one wanna place an order?

P.S. once your installed and tied to the drain, go back later and unscrew to add the putty, the gasket is already done from the beganinning

Sounds good. It seems like the few times i've done them there was absolutely no room for the new shoe to turn. Also crawling under the house and back out can be such a pain in the A#$! I think i'll just continue to make my brother tag along and make him go under the house. :)

westcoastplumber
07-19-2007, 10:47 PM
Sounds good. It seems like the few times i've done them there was absolutely no room for the new shoe to turn. Also crawling under the house and back out can be such a pain in the A#$! I think i'll just continue to make my brother tag along and make him go under the house. :)


I have been in the same situation, when I cannot turn the shoe, I will do a balancing act on the overflow and when it is hanging, run inside and stick my finger in and bracket it, the start from there and run the tee and then balance the shoe and set it, either way, it has to happen , cause I am by myself :D:D

DuckButter
07-19-2007, 11:22 PM
I have been in the same situation, when I cannot turn the shoe, I will do a balancing act on the overflow and when it is hanging, run inside and stick my finger in and bracket it, the start from there and run the tee and then balance the shoe and set it, either way, it has to happen , cause I am by myself :D:D

Aaaah, sweet cynical reality!
Just grinning remembering some horror shows of the past...running up and down stairs a dozen times trying to figure out how to get the stupid thing to stay put so I could turn it loose above.
Then there's that point where it feels like the new one is starting to tighten a little too soon and you wonder "Is this thing cross threading?".

drtyhands
07-19-2007, 11:59 PM
Mr ducky, there wasn't anything to grab onto in the shoe, the "things" inside the shoe were not there;)

I have a tool, called a dumb bell, works great, when someone hasen't already tried it before.:D

the sawzall that goes 20 differrent directions is the porter cable, it adjust's alot of different ways so it will fit in tight spaces and between rafters etc.
http://www.tylertool.com/por97tigvara.html
Had one,it did come in handyonce in a while,but unfortunately the tranny snapped,as I have done to a few tiger saws over the years.So now its the Dewalt $100 sawzall with the four direction head and long metal blades for spuds.And the Dewalt is much lighter

HouseOfAtlas
07-20-2007, 07:44 AM
I have yet to put in a overflow by myself (luckily), but couldn't you use some good duct tape to tape the overflow to the back of the tub while you run around to the other side and put the two screws in through the overflow plate? Just curious. Kind of like for some shower doors, you need to tape the bottom rail to the top of the shower pan ledge so it doesn't move when putting in the wall jambs, etc.

ToUtahNow
07-20-2007, 08:50 AM
It's nice to have a little help installing a waste and overflow but I have installed more solo then with help.

Mark

PLUMBER RICK
07-20-2007, 09:02 AM
typically you can prefab from the rear access and allow the face plate screws to hang out of the overflow and hold you from falling.

if you start from the trap then the trap slip joint will hold you up.

now what's real fun is a back to back on a slab.

if there's a will, there's a way. working by yourself you find a way to do things.

rick.

All Clear Sewer
07-20-2007, 09:53 AM
I would like you to tell me what you think, then I will tell you what it cost. When coming up with the cost, keep in mind you will be lying in mud to do it.;) and I had to use my sawzall that goes 20 different directions to cut the shoe off, unable to uscrew it.:D
Well mud is $200.00 off the top right there my friend and I call that Flat-Rate :D.....I`m just kidding ya on the F/R stuff ;)

But really
I do charge more if I have to get in sewer mud :eek: or even mud from a water leak under a house. I just did a job under a trailer house that had been leaking for years, still trying to think of what to charge em for fixing a water leak :confused: I looked like Swamp Thing when I came back out :eek: :D

westcoastplumber
07-20-2007, 11:14 AM
Well mud is $200.00 off the top right there my friend and I call that Flat-Rate :D.....I`m just kidding ya on the F/R stuff ;)

But really
I do charge more if I have to get in sewer mud :eek: or even mud from a water leak under a house. I just did a job under a trailer house that had been leaking for years, still trying to think of what to charge em for fixing a water leak :confused: I looked like Swamp Thing when I came back out :eek: :D


I did the waste and overflow for 466.00;) included cutting the drain apart and removing the toy in the crown weir. that section was already ABS.;) great draining tub and now the customer dosen't have to use a rag to stop the tub anymore when she bathes her children, or scoop water into the toilet when she has to drain it, lol:D