No. 227 Inner-Outer Reamer

[2inchpipe]

Has anyone used the No. 227 Outer Reamer? I'm using a ratcheting threader on site for 2" galvanized pipe connections and I am currently spending 10 - 15 minutes grinding the outside edge of the pipe to prepare the cut end for the threader. Will the Outer Reamer work better than a grinder? What is the best tool/method for threading preparation of this nature?

[plumberscrack]

I thought the 227 was for copper pipe only:confused: I don't think it will last long on galv. pipe.

10-15 mins to prepare the ends for threading? That's way too long.

If you are having trouble getting the threader started; the teeth on the diehead may need to be reset.

Welcome to the forum neighbor!

[BILLG]

the 227 reamer is for tubing not pipe. what are you cutting the pipe with that makes you have to grind it before threading?

[PLUMBER RICK]

what are you using to cut the pipe?

the 227 is a copper reamer and will not work for steel.

typically all you need to do is ream the inside of the pipe if you're using a wheel type (displacement) pipe cutter.

a sawzall or chop saw will require less reaming.

if you have a lot of pipe to cut ,ream, thread. i would look into renting an electric machine such as the 300 tripod. a 700 handheld is a lot of work for 2''.

rick.

[plumberscrack]

Rick brings up a good point about the cutter.

If you are using a steel pipe cutter with a dull cutter wheel or applying too much pressure during the cut the end of the pipe will flare out some making it difficult to start the threader.

It's a rookie mistake I sometimes am guilty of :D

[biscuit]

YEAH!:eek:

WHAT RICK AND P-CRACK SAID!!

You got the wrong tool for the wrong job. >>>>>>>>>>>>>OR is the right tool for the wrong job. Anyway, you get the point.

REgards and good luck!

[Woussko]

This post was 1000% messed up and thus removed. I hope that 2inchpipe didn't see it and get messed up.

[gear junkie]

Not sure if that the best tool for the job. You need to use the reamers made by ridigid. I like the kind with straight blades rather than spiral because they're easier to resharpen.

[westcoastplumber]

I have used the 285 and the 284, both very good and made by ridgid, you said something about reaming the outside of the pipe, I cut mine with a sawzall, or roll cutters, very carefully, square and clean, normally, I am clean on the outside, a sawzall cuts down on the inner ream, but tends to make a mess on the O.D. if not done carefully and methodicly;)

[Woussko]

Gear

You're right

After checking more and thinking what I posted a picture of would be for reaming a fitting before tapping threads in it. I had to go back and see he wants to ream the inside of pipe.

These are more like it, I think
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Pipe-Reamers2/EN/index.htm


Warning: As Woussko ages his brain is acting up on him more and more. Because of this sometimes it gets into the totally wrong gear. :eek: That's what happened with the other reamer posting before this one.

[westcoastplumber]

Gear

You're right

After checking more and thinking what I posted a picture of would be for reaming a fitting before tapping threads in it. I had to go back and see he wants to ream the inside of pipe.

These are more like it, I think
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Pipe-Reamers2/EN/index.htm


Warning: As Woussko ages his brain is acting up on him more and more. Because of this sometimes it gets into the totally wrong gear. :eek: That's what happened with the other reamer posting before this one.

great link Woussko:D

[2inchpipe]

Yes I'm using a manual wheeled cutter that creates a small flare, but I'm having to grind off more than just the resultant flare. Looks like the teeth on my new ridgid manual ratcheting threader (8 threads old) are not biting until the 4th row so I am grinding the edge down to allow the 4th row to start the threading process. The description on the 227 said it could be used for stainless as well as copper, thus my inquiry on that. I know stainless is much softer than galvanized, I was just asking if anyone had used th 227 Outer Reamer for this purpose. Looks like I will be stepping up to a 300 automatic threader . . . OUCH!

[PLUMBER RICK]

Yes I'm using a manual wheeled cutter that creates a small flare, but I'm having to grind off more than just the resultant flare. Looks like the teeth on my new ridgid manual ratcheting threader (8 threads old) are not biting until the 4th row so I am grinding the edge down to allow the 4th row to start the threading process. The description on the 227 said it could be used for stainless as well as copper, thus my inquiry on that. I know stainless is much softer than galvanized, I was just asking if anyone had used th 227 Outer Reamer for this purpose. Looks like I will be stepping up to a 300 automatic threader . . . OUCH!

the reamer is designed for tubing, not pipe.

the threader being 8 threads old sounds like you need to adjust the dies.

i'm assuming it's a #12 head.

you need to loosen the 4 screws that hold down the dies and adjust the die. i find that a factory threaded nipple is an easy way to adjust the die. loosen the screws to allow the plate to lift, screw the factory nipple into the die head about 5 threads and then tighten the 4 screws.

this should get you close.

also let the pipe cutter do the work. over tightening the pipe cutter is not going to allow the rollers to push the pipe back into itself.

you can try a sawzall or chop saw if you have one. that will make for less reaming.

rick.

[drtyhands]

I didn't notice if anyone asked,how much are you reaming?I have seen someone flare the pipe wth a reamer.

I've seen stranger things:)

Like a guy snapping my cutter wheel on my Rothenburger 22A cause he was trying to cut a piece of pipe while it was being threaded.

[BHD]

If your not using a RIDGID pipe cutter, I would strongly suggest trying to find one, rent, buy or borrow one, and at least try it.

I had (still have) a off brand and the cutter wheel was thicker and would Produce a flair or ridge on the out side edge of the pipe, It did that from the first cut.

I after a time spent the money on a RIDGID wheel cutter, (actually have 4 of them now), and could not believe the difference of the quality of the cut and the lack of out side ridging that the RIDGID cutter produced. WITH the RIDGID there was no outside ridge.

Both cut pipe, but the effort and the outside ridging and the amount of reaming on the inside was considerable less with the RIDGID cutter. and the RIDGID felt better to use,

IF you are using a RIDGID cutter, try a new cutter wheel for it.

and RIDGID reamers (inside) are very, very good, much better than an off brand, the work involved is a fraction.

[westcoastplumber]

I didn't notice if anyone asked,how much are you reaming?I have seen someone flare the pipe wth a reamer.

I've seen stranger things:)

Like a guy snapping my cutter wheel on my Rothenburger 22A cause he was trying to cut a piece of pipe while it was being threaded.


thats nothing Adam, I had a helper 1 time use my ABS cutters and cut 3/4 steel with them, he didn't get the idea until the wheel shattered:eek:

[apf]

Honestly Robert , if you use good cuting wheels for any metal pipe with even pressure , you shouldn't need anything except light filing on your outer edge [15 seconds for a 2" galv. thread ].You need the reamer pictured in the link . THat should also take no more than 15 seconds . I don"t take my mach. out for just 3 or 4 joints/threads . Pass on the price of the cutter wheel to your cust. , like you would sawzall blades. Gear Junkie , excellent frickin suggestion about the straight groved reamer . 25 years in the business you would have thought I'd have figured that out , Thanks.

[westcoastplumber]

Honestly Robert , if you use good cuting wheels for any metal pipe with even pressure , you shouldn't need anything except light filing on your outer edge [15 seconds for a 2" galv. thread ].You need the reamer pictured in the link . THat should also take no more than 15 seconds . I don"t take my mach. out for just 3 or 4 joints/threads . Pass on the price of the cutter wheel to your cust. , like you would sawzall blades. Gear Junkie , excellent frickin suggestion about the straight groved reamer . 25 years in the business you would have thought I'd have figured that out , Thanks.


Hmmmm, in my post I stated "he used my ABS "Plastic" cutting wheel to cut steel pipe, he didn't snap until he shattered the wheel" Do you not understand, or do I not understand your post?

I have no problems with my steel pipe, reamers or anything else, all is well with my outer and inner ledges, nothing I cannot handle.