Tip for TS3612 owners...

[kbrandon]

If you build an enclosure for the back of your saw to improve dust collection, make sure you make the slot for the belt long enough to accomodate raising the blade. I made mine out of clear plastic & did all the measuring with the blade lowered all the way.

Luckily, I discovered this problem with the saw turned off. I raised the blade to install my new Freud LU84 blade (small hidden gloat) & heard this cracking sound. Well, I thought I might have dropped something behind the saw so I ignored it. It wasn't until the plastic shattered that I realized what I had done.

Kevin

[Big Johnson]

kbrandon,
Here are some pictures of the back I made for my saw... It velcros all the way around...

Yes you are right about allowing enough room for the belt...

Hope this helps...

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/My%20Shop%20Tools/2.jpg

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/My%20Shop%20Tools/3.jpg

[kbrandon]

Thanks. I actually checked out your design awhile back. I used the velcro idea. Also, multiple pieces. It worked great until I raised the blade that day.

How long did you make the slot for your belt?

Kevin

[Big Johnson]

I will check tonight when I get home a get back with you...

[kbrandon]

That would be great. Thank you.

Kevin

[daveferg]

Looks good---you might want to try two pieces, with a horizontal seam. That worked well for me---less pieces. Velcro is good-----I used magnets, which with 3/8" ply' worked great.

[BadgerDave]

daveferg,

Does your design allow for the use of the blade guard and splitter? If it does, unlike me :( , do you have the capabilities to post pictures? Thanks.

One more question, by closing up the back like this doesn't the DC get a little starved for air?

Dave

[ 06-30-2003, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: Badger Dave ]

[Cutbuff]

No, the DC doesn't get starved when you cover the rear of the TS. There's still plenty of gaps both front & rear for air to enter. What you get is a nice clean motor!

Now if only the same could be said of the table surface...without having to spend hundreds on an Excaliber/Penn State overarm system! :(

David

[Big Johnson]

kbrandon,
Here is the measurement you had asked for...

I also included a couple other close up views so you can get a birds eye view...

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/Scrap%20Oak/IM000913.JPG

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/Scrap%20Oak/IM000916.JPG

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/Scrap%20Oak/IM000917.JPG

[Cutbuff]

Here's Big's pic with the culprit that causes the most problems. It's not that obvious until you raise the blade to almost full height.

http://home.comcast.net/~davidjrose/wsb/media/160638/site1068.jpg

David

[Big Johnson]

David,
Thanks for expounding on the cut out... You pointed out a very good detail that I was try to imply... I would like to see pictures of daveferg's cover... Got any pictures Dave??? Also the clear plastic cover of kbrandons saw... How about pictures of everyone's saw... I will start a new topic on that one...

By the way... I think I am going to replace the Ridgid dust collector box underneath my saw this weekend with one that has a 4" port... Following up on badger Dave's comment, if the DC is starving... The answer is YES, and not because of having a lack of makeup air from the gaps in the saw box; it starving because of the 4" to 2-1/2" reducer I am running on the end of the hose currently... My collection performance will highly increase once the collector can breath properly... I will show pic's once I get it built...

[Cutbuff]

Big, you can buy for around $7-$10 a 14" x 14" plastic moulded hood with 4" outlet specifically for table saws. From the usual suppliers of DC plastic fittings.

David

[Big Johnson]

David,
I would love to buy something like that but unfortunately the small town I live in; doesn't offer anything like that... I would have to mail order or drive 85 miles to hunt something down... I have a few odd's and inn's laying around for dust collection... If I can't find a winning combination between my parts I will likely take you up on the advice and just order something... Thanks...

[kbrandon]

Hmmm, thanks for pointing that out Cutbuff. Now that I think about it, that is probably what broke the plastic on mine instead of the belt. The slot I made for the belt wasn't long enough though.

Back to the drawing board for me. I still have some plastic pieces left. Hopefully, I can get it redesigned shortly. I'll post some pics if it works.

Thanks again for the assistance.

Kevin

[Dave Arbuckle]

Big, you can buy for around $7-$10 a 14" x 14" plastic moulded hood with 4" outlet specifically for table saws. From the usual suppliers of DC plastic fittings.

I had a spare accessory dust fitting that came with my dust collector. Screwed it to a piece of Masonite, screwed the Masonite to the bottom of the saw.

Dave

[Big Johnson]

Dave Arbuckle and Gang,
Here is the odd ball extra part I got laying around... I will most likely attach it to a piece of 1/4" mahogany underlayment sheeting that I have laying around and do as most of you have recommended and affix it to the underneath side of the saw body... I hope it doesn't suck the blade inside out... :D

http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/Ridgid%20Tablesaw/IM000932.JPG

[ 07-02-2003, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: Big Johnson ]