kitchen counter top overhang question

[cactusman]

I'm using 3/4 plywood for the base and easymat instead of wonder-board.
We sadly know they have shaved plywood again so in the real world it's 23/32"

I am looking at about a 12 1/2" to 13" overhang for the counter on the bar side. Right now the plywood in not secured to the cabinets. I did attach additional 1x3 across for securing the plywood instead of those flimsy glue blocks.

I notice a slight play in the plywood when I press down. I'm not sure if that will be the case when it's secured properly.

I was wondering what options I have to add some support to the plywood?
I'd rather not install brackets underneath. I wonder if it would be ok to dado a 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep slot in 3 or 4 places and insert some 3/8 x 3/4" aluminum bar stock? My concept is the aluminum stock will keep the plywood from moving and with the easymat and tile on you'd never know it has the reinforcement. The tile is 12" granite.

Cactus Man

[garager]

Put a hardwood face rail on the edge of your plywood. 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"x 3/4", this will stiffen it up alot. Some will install a decorative wood blocks at the ends.See attached link.

http://www.invitinghome.com/Corbels/OW_Corbels_List3.htm?gclid=CLq3lKWk7I4CFRa_WAodVSO RoA

[CARPENTERDON]

Take a piece of hardwood (1"x4"), rabbet it (3/8" x 1/2"), glue, clamp, and screw it (pre-drill holes into the plywood before screwing it down) to the plywood substrate. That will strengthen the plywood and give you a place to apply the easymat and then the edge tiles.

[woodenstickers]

I have seen supports like you describe, but they were made of cold rolled steel. These actually were secured through the floor of the kitchen with 40" bolt so they could support a lot of weight. Although you have said you are not interested in putting supports underneath, you can get corbels that will match the cabinets. (I don't like em either, but they do work) I have also seen many a granite top with a big overhang, bigger than 13", sitting on 3/4" with no support at all.

[Ross Creek]

All the counter tops I make are at least a double thickness of 3/4" material.

I cut strips anywhere from 4" to 12" wide (depending on the overhang) and glue/screw them to the bottom, all the way around the outside edge. I also run a strip across anywhere the cabinets join or there's an upright cabinet member. I'll even go 3 layers on a counter with a span or a large overhang. IMHO, 3/4" material is not enough for a counter. :)

[The Wood Meister]

All the counter tops I make are at least a double thickness of 3/4" material.

I cut strips anywhere from 4" to 12" wide (depending on the overhang) and glue/screw them to the bottom, all the way around the outside edge. I also run a strip across anywhere the cabinets join or there's an upright cabinet member. I'll even go 3 layers on a counter with a span or a large overhang. IMHO, 3/4" material is not enough for a counter. :)


I completely agree. Since you mention "tile", ANY flex in the top will result in cracked grout. Personally, I would not do any subtops with a foot of hangover that is un-supported and had tile on top. Not worth the risk for me.

Mark