Making picture frames

[Matrix]

Hello-

I've always wanted to try making some picture frames, so I've been doing some research on the topic. A lot of sites out there make it seem easy - too easy. Mainly in that they assume all wood is perfectly square, when as experience has taught me, it never is. I have a tendency to jump into projects expecting professional results, without professional tools. To save myself that frustration, I'd like to ask all you woodworking experts out there the following:

1. Is a thickness planer required for good results?
2. Is a jointer/planer required for good results?
3. What's the best way to secure the sides of a frame? Biscuits? What about small frames where a biscuit would be too big?

Thanks.

-TM

[jbergstrom]

Matrix I would start by getting a good good book (http://www.amazon.ca/Basic-Picture-Framing-Skills-Started/dp/0811731782) on the subject (just an example).
I would purchase a good miter trimmer (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5804) and some quality picture framing tools (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1&p=43293).

Then I would read about and research the subject to help me decide if I wanted to purchase ready made moldings or make my own...

[foulkeworks]

I have never made picture frames, but I needed a frame for a mirror in a bathroom. I used my miter saw to make the 45 degree cuts, a belt clamp and glue to hold it together. Then once the glue was dried I used my staple gun to reinforce the glue corners.

Our mirror had a bad spot in the lower 1 inch of the mirror and builder glued the mirror to the wall. We found a place online that would make a custom mirror frame, but it would have cost over $250. I made this one for around $25.

[CWSmith]

I have yet to make picture frames, but as soon as I get the other big projects on the house renovaton done, I'm planning on doing several frames that will fit the decor.

However, I've done a few screen frames and similar box-like frames as part of trim. One of the easiest joints that I've used is make splines at the corners. This is relatively simple, in that you fit-up a typical 45 miter at the corners and then cut a deep slot (groove) thru the center of the matching corners. You then place a thin (matching the kerf of the slot you cut) piece of wood in the slot with the grain running across the grain of the frame.

The miter itself has little to no strength because you're mating endgrain. But adding a thin piece of matching or contrasting wood as a spline adds significant strength to the joint. I've done these with a hand saw, but setting up a simple jig on a table saw is better, IMO.

You can also use simple lap joints at the corners too. These can look like 45 mitered corners, or use a 90-degree joint with the top and bottom of the frame mating with sides at a 90-degree angle (with the top and bottom pieces lapping across the back, the front edge looks like a fitted cabinet frame. You can do this on a table saw or with a router table.

Corners can also be pegged when using and overlap, as this adds a bit to the design, especially if you're using a contrasting wood. A drill press is great borring a peg hole, but I think a plunge router might be preferable with the proper setup.

As mentioned, getting a good book (buy, or check your local library) will provide you with a lot of ideas. If your library has them, check back issues of some of the woodworking magazines.

CWS

[Cephus]

Frames can be easy, depending on what you're trying to do. You need wood that will meet at 45 degree angles, depending on the wood that you're trying to use, you may need a jointer/planer to square it but you don't need it if you're working with already surfaced wood. Splines, as someone said, are a really good way to add both visual interest and strength to the joints but you can also biscuit or staple if you want to. It isn't like a frame really needs a ton of stability, it's not going to take much abuse, it'll just hold a picture and hang on the wall, right?

[Matrix]

While I don't want to be a full-time framer, I do have a lot of prints from my photography hobby that are just collecting dust.

I did a lot of research today, both online and in books, went to local stores and looked at tools, and this is what I'm thinking.

I like the possibilities routing my own edges affords me, and even though I'm new to routing, I can see there are virtually unlimited combinations you can create. I'd like a good router / table. I'm thinking of a Ridgid R2930 router, and I've yet to decide on a table.

The wood I'd use would be, for now at least, consumer-grade pine/oak/poplar 1x2 and 1x3s from Home Depot.

After the wood has been cut, what's the best way to cut a slot for a spline on a 45?

Since 3/4" (aka 1") is the thinnest wood that's widely stocked, would it make sense to invest in a surface planer? A 13" x 19" frame made out of that would be roughly 5.3 linear feet of wood - quite heavy if it were made of oak.

Thanks.

-TM

[matthewsutton]

tm, i have been making them for my new home with nothing more than a miter saw..or you could use a miter gauge on the table saw would also work..or even hand saw and a miter box. i buy the kraftmaid moldings already finished that matched my cabinets off a ebay seller named "kitchentrim" in 8ft sections..mitered my corners..joined with glue and my kreg pocket screw kit. since these were to hold a mirror i did router i small grove in the back of the trim to hold the mirror recess. hope this helps.

[CWSmith]

TM,

I think a router/table would be an excellent tool for making your own frame moldings; although, as mentioned previously, there is a pretty good variety of existing moldings available.

I recently purchased a Rockler table, with a mounting plate for the R2900, and the accessory kit. I believe the total was around $200, I'd have to look up the reciept to confirm that and also give you the part number for the plate. I built my own leg set, to support the table top.

A miter saw would be handy of course, but a table saw with a good quality miter gauge would also do the trick. Splines are probably best cut on a table saw, using a 45-degree angle jig along the fence. Certainly other members will offer their opinions and perhaps some detail (I have yet to figure out how to display pictures here).

It sounds like you are well on your way to "framing happiness", keep posting!

CWS

[Wood_Junkie]

WOOD Magazine had a letter and quick overview of exactly the kind of joint you'd probably love to have in a picture frame for your own work. It's probably a tad bit of overkill (in terms of strength) but I thought it was fascinating. I've considered pulling out my tenoning jig to try to make it.

I think it was called a double bridled half lap miter, or some such.

Imagine a bridled, mitered, mortise and tenon joint. You essentially are using a mitered tenon in lieu of a spline. It apparently provides a lot of glue surface on the long grain.

It looked slick as snot, but tricky to make. I'll see if I can find the page number tonight and/or a link for it online.

[VASandy]

I've made one frame so far. A friend let me in on a big secret, which is to make your inside rabbet 1/8" larger than the item you're framing. That is 1/8" on width and 1/8" on height/length. It's really made a difference!

I rabbet first, then cut. Don't know if that's how it's supposed to be done, but it is just easier for me to cut the rabbet on the long piece and then start making the frame. To cut the miters, I use the table saw with an Incra Miter gauge. To join the pieces, I use small "0" biscuits on the miters, holding the biscuit cuts up above the rabbet. I also use a Picture Frame clamp I got from Woodcraft ($19.99 + tax), http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3086 . It works very well, although it is a bit tricky the first time to set it up and clamp all the corners in all at once! It just takes time and patience.

So far, the frame has held together very well. I've had no trouble with the corners separating. It's been hanging up for about three months now (and I even dropped it once before I put the picture in it!!).

[franklin pug]

I have made a lot of picture frames, as well as a dozen or so mirror frames. I started by taking a course from Lee Valley on picture frame making - it was great.

I have made frames in a few ways, experiencing success with both. For smaller frames (1" wide or so), I often rip a long peice of stock on the TS and then rabbet the whole thing at once. Sort of like making a 4 foot "picture frame blank" with the profile and rabbet (space for your art) ready to go. Then you can mitre the stiles and rails to whatever dimensions you require, sneaking up on a nice tight joint with your MS.

The other way is to cut your stiles and rails a few inches longer than you require, and machine them one at a time on the router table.

I keep common size matts on hand, so that when i make a frame i can use the matt to ensure everything fits well. Making picture frames is relatively fast, and good results are attainable.

Tools which will make your life a lot easier (and more enjoyable) are definately a good Table Saw, a power miter saw, and a router in a table. Of course you'll need clamps and a power sander as well.

To secure the mitred edges together I use a really neat tool I picked up at (surprise) Lee Valley. It drives "V-Nails" to secure the mitred joints, as glue alone is not sufficient to support an end grain-to-end grain joint.

Here is a link

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=52113&cat=1,43293

There are TONS of variations to making frames. So be creative and have fun!

[Cephus]

I rabbet first, then cut. Don't know if that's how it's supposed to be done, but it is just easier for me to cut the rabbet on the long piece and then start making the frame.

That's a good tip, not only will it be easier to make the cut but it'll be more consistent as well, rather than trying to make a separate rabbet in four different pieces.

[amcnerl]

Hey Matrix, I've made lots of picture frames and it's not that difficult. I use my miter gauge on the table saw to cut the angles and I've just used Titebond III glue on the corners and everything holds great. I've also used the Miller dowels on the edges of the frame corners in a contrasting wood color for strength and design. As mentioned in other replies, splines, also of contrasting color, add strength and looks. The toughest part are making tight 45 degree cuts for the corners. I will take some photos of the latest and post them so you can see. I use the router with a straight bit for cutting the rabbits. It's not absolutley necessary to use a planner or jointer but they sure do make everything consistant. Also mentioned was to let your imagination go, I agree with that 100%. Best of luck and have fun...

[Wood_Junkie]

I'm the dissenter I guess. I make and assemble the frame in full, then use a rabbet bit with a bearing to cut the rabbet for the picture / matte / glass. Then I use a corner chisel and regular chisels to clean up the rounded corners.

I just find it easier to assemble and glue without a chunk of the flat portion of the workpiece missing.

Franklin_Pug, I use that same V-nail driving tool! It's good and it's easy to use. I've also made frame using pocket holes to secure the miters. But unless the front of the frame is mostly flat (like a Craftsmen style frame) you can't align the edges to drive the screw...

[david0075]

I started making picture frames a couple years ago & I use a miter saw . I also bought a framing kit from The Frame Co. It had a pushmaster v-nailer, v-nails, the frame clamp ( which I use on lots of different projects ). I also purchased a couple of picture frame router bits from Grizzly. You can make hundreds of different profiles with these bits just by changing the width of wood or flipping them over etc. I have since even picked up a mat cutter & you would not believe how simple it is to make professional frame & mat jobs in your own shop. Good Luck

[amcnerl]

Matrix, here's a photo of a few I've made. You can see the splines in 1 and the Miller dowels in another. The maple frame is just glued. Hope this helps...

[Hector B]

Matrix
You mention the poplar and oak from the HD and Lowes. I've used a lot of the same lumber for tables and chairs. It usually takes me 2 or three trips to find just the right boards, because they never seem to have enough straight, square and unblemished pieces the first time around. I have used my table mounted router for edge jointing and was very pleased with the fit. Just my 2 cents
See ya when the sawdust clears...
Hector

[zeker]

The size of the frame and what you are framing will dictate the joinery method. V-nails work great for narrow frames for photos or lighter art. If you're going to frame a mirror or put a large picture behind glass I would use glue with biscuits installed perpendicular to the miter joint. For some frames you could even use pocket screws. I try to use pocket screws where possible.

[bmh032]

I just finished making a picture frame for a world series newspaper (attached picture), and I also waited until the frame was assembled to rout the edges and the rabbet for the glass. This way, everything will line up perfectly after the frame has been glued up. I also use splines when I make the frame. Having a planer is a big plus when making the splines the correct thickness. I've made them with and without the thickness planer, and i will use the thickness planer from now on. I've also used pocket holes to for the corners, and i find it hard to set them up. I think it's easier to use a jig for the table saw then use the screws, and I think the splines look better. I'm of the philosophy that you should use the easiest joinery that will suffice for the joinery. So it depends on the size of the frame and the weight it will be holding as to what joinery you use. Simply gluing the 45's may work just fine if the frame is small enough. I hope I haven't confused you anymore then you already were, but you'll learn whats best for you with experience. Trial and error can be the best teacher.

[Wood_Junkie]

Here's a Craftsman style frame I made for my parent's house. It's got mortise and tenon corners as well as square tenon pegs with only clear poly finish. The rest is a light cherry stain finish, to match an armoire they have, and three coats of poly.

The wood for this frame came from two separate pieces of oak reclaimed from our house. The top and bottom pieces are cut from one piece (you can see the grain lines); the sides are both cut from another pieces. It will soon house a canvas painting my mom picked up somewhere that has a crappy-crapola fugly frame.

2254

[jhill3264]

You've gotten some great feedback on the cutting and joining of the 45 degree corners. I'll go back to a couple of your original questions on the need for thickness planer and/or jointer.

Obviously, if you're going to be making your own profiles you need a router and table. Where the planer/jointer comes in is these tools give you the opportunity to make the edge that's going to be routed perfectly flat and straight. Although you can run wood that is slightly warped or twisted through the router by applying the pressure in the right places and using due diligence, it is amazing how even very slight variations in the distance from the bit can be visible, especially with small profiles that leave a "lip". The straighter and flatter you can get the wood to be, the more consistent and less "work" it will be.

When I first got into woodworking, I built an entire set of kitchen cabinet doors using a reverseable set of router rail & stile bits and stock pieces of oak from the home center. They didn't turn out too badly, but I do remember having to do a fair amount of sanding because some of the coped joints just didn't come together flat. I just figured that was the way it goes, but later realized that even the slightest bow in the wood was causing very slight changes in the distance to the router bit. By checking the bow before I routed, I found I could control the effect somewhat by applying more pressure at certain places to attempt to keep the distance to the bit consistent.

Once I got a jointer and planer and started running "everything" through them before getting to the router, I found I didn't have to work nearly as hard. I could actually setup the proper table and fence featherboards and just push the all wood through. I could even start picking the "best" edge to route based on desirable grain direction and pattern, rather than which way the "cup" was. I'm not saying that you can't get by without a jointer and planer. In fact, I think one of the reasons I can really appreciate what these tools do is because of all the work I used to did without them.

Jim