Finger (box) joint jig for router table

[niki]

When I posted the "New router -new table" you could see some sled that rolls on the table edges.

When I used it first time, I made a box or finger joints.

So here is all the story...please note that I'm cutting all the 4 boards of the box in one shot.

The TS sled that you can see on the two first pics, is also rolling and is never binding due to weather changes nor gets loose ever but, that's different story....

Regards
niki


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/001.jpg


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http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/009.jpg


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http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/012.jpg


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http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/015.jpg

[niki]

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/016.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/017.jpg


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http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/19mm.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Box%20first/19mmb.jpg

[Duffster]

Although I love the simplicity of your tool creations and the usage I've seen here, 9.7cm is not 4". 10.16cm is. What you've got there is 3.819 inches.

[niki]

Hi Duff

I usually convert Metric to Inches to a practical numbers.

From your profession, I can see that you are working with very accurate numbers...by the way, in the Nuclear plant, do you work with Metric or English system

I don't think that it's practical to translate 9.7cm to 3.81886" so, usually I round it up or down to something more practical like 4"...and, I do it all the time, 6mm are not 1/4" and 10mm are not 3/8" but, I also know that you don't have a 6mm Threaded Rod...

I work in Metric, the "translation" to Inches is there only when I post on the American forums so the guys that don't like or think in metric will also get some idea of the dimensions that usually are just for reference and not so important in those cases.

Regards
niki

[JJCiesla]

Hi niki,
Most do understand the concept of finger joints but are unsure what to do when things don’t line up, are too lose or too tight and what or how can it be salvaged. We always SEE the ones that came out great but there’s a whole slue of things that can go wrong. So what’s good or what’s “good enough”. Showing that the bit broke the edges on the last cut was excellent.

Now folks, how do you fix or correct that problem on the current box or the next box?

[VASandy]

Now folks, how do you fix or correct that problem on the current box or the next box?

Hmmmm....seems like the real innovation in woodworking is solving these kinds of problems! Good question, JJCiesla!

For the current box, there's a couple options. One is to simply trim the blow-out section off the one piece, then trim all the rest of the box pieces to the same dimension. Could be done on the table saw with fingerboards properly set and some push sticks. Although, depending on the amount of blowout (and your tools), you could also glue up the box as is, then use a belt sander to sand that end of the box, removing the blowout. A jack plane might work too, but you'd get blowout on the sides.

For the subsequent boxes, using a backer piece on the sides would be the solution. That would stop the blowout from happening.

So Niki...are you going to post the TS finger joint jig? Pretty please? :D

[cpw]

So Niki...are you going to post the TS finger joint jig? Pretty please? :D
I would doubt it because euro saws don't accept dados.

[niki]

So Niki...are you going to post the TS finger joint jig? Pretty please? :D

I would doubt it because euro saws don't accept dados.

Very correct....my TS has a short arbor and will not accept Dado blades...

Dado blades are prohibited in EU [even though, I know that some guys (amateurs) with old TS's are still using them] and the reason is....

There is a Safety regulation that states: "The blade must stop within 10 seconds" (on my TS it stops in 6 seconds) but, the inertia forces involved, can cause the opening of the arbor nut and blades bigger than 10", has a hole that fits into the arbor pin to "lock" the blade.

Naturally, dado blade has bigger mass and can cause the opening of the arbor nut so they prohibited it's use all over the EU.

And now, you can understand why I had to make a special sled for the router even though, I would be more happy to use the TS with dado blade:o

That's the original blade and you can see the holes that fit (only one needed) into the arbor pin...but I removed the pin so, I'll be able to use also other (older) blades...

Please note that the arbor is of 30mm (1¼")...standard in EU...

4041

Regards
niki