View Full Version : ProPress Pipe Alignment
craigr
11-07-2007, 02:13 PM
Our company is now in the process of installing our first large scale ProPress heating system piping in a six story commercial building. We have approximately 15,000 lft of 3/4" - 2" copper pipe to install as part of the base building contract, with more to follow during the tenant fit out process. We have run into a slight problem during our first day of major installation work; keeping long runs of 2' pipe in proper straight alignment. It seem s that at every coupling or tee joint, the pipe "kinks" off to one side when crimped. Any thoughs or ideas to maintain the pipe in straight alignment so when looking back down the line it does not look like a copper snake? How about pipe alignment clamps?
Thanks For your Help,
Craig
PLUMBER RICK
11-07-2007, 06:50 PM
unfortunatly the crimp will cause a slight movement in the line. will insulation hide it?
is it hanging in loop hangers or on unistrut?
it could be worse:confused: a brazed joint looks worse and deflects more;)
you could try to pry it back as the crimp is only the force to hold it together. the o-ring is the seal.
rick.
craigr
11-08-2007, 02:54 PM
The pipe is hung with individual pipe hangers not on a common piece of unistrut. Unfortunately, hiding with insulation is not an option. The Viega Rep. gave us a few hints; crimping form the bottom up, pushing away from the tool to counter act the tools torque, etc. We are currently investigating some type of pipe alignment clamp system but we do not want to make the system too complicated or we will loose our labor savings. If anyone else has an idea or sugestion, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks
gear junkie
11-08-2007, 10:14 PM
Have you thought about using a pipe alignement tool used by welders?
Australian Plumber Josh
11-08-2007, 10:45 PM
A method ive used running multiple parallel services on individual hangers:
Braze / solder a small diameter peice of copper tube across the top of your pipes to physically maintain the spacing / alignment. Just barely tack it on for ease of removal.
Can be a pain. And needs to be removed for insulation.
Hope this is some help.
YankeeConCo
01-18-2008, 02:49 PM
Sounds as thought the jaws may be misaligned laterally, so that as force is applied, the joint "rotates" perpendicular to the pipe. Are the bends consistent, in that they are all bending in the same direction in relation to the jaws orientation? Or are they erratic? Can you apply lateral pressure with one hand while crimping to offset the torque load?
craigr
01-22-2008, 09:43 AM
We were able to cure the problem by doing most of our crimping from the bottom up. When crimping from the side, it was necesary to "push" a bit away from the installer to counter act the "pulling" of the tool during the crimping action. As the installers became more familar with the system the problem became a non factor. All in all, it apears that the sytem was a sucess in saving installtion labor and decreasing installation durations. We will be using the system on subsequent jobs.
PLUMBER RICK
01-22-2008, 09:55 AM
We were able to cure the problem by doing most of our crimping from the bottom up. When crimping from the side, it was necesary to "push" a bit away from the installer to counter act the "pulling" of the tool during the crimping action. As the installers became more familar with the system the problem became a non factor. All in all, it apears that the sytem was a sucess in saving installtion labor and decreasing installation durations. We will be using the system on subsequent jobs.
now you're talking;)
maybe they will listen to you:confused: since they don't listen to me:rolleyes:
actually they do to some degree on the mighty k-60:D
more will when i school them at the ridgid round up:eek:
rick.
glad it worked out. what size of piping was an issue?
2.5''- 4'' should be a non issue.
1.5'' and 2'' should have been the real issues.
silverbullet
01-25-2008, 08:22 PM
Another little trick is to alternate sides when you crimp. one on the right, next on the left.
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