Cabinet Materials

[Hef]

I have to build a basic upper cabinet set to go over a prep-counter that I built. I was going to use 3/4 MDF for the case and tack a 1x3 wood face frame to the outside. But someone told me that you cannot brad into MDF b/c it won't hold. True? Still learning here...be gentle. :D

[wbrooks]

Brads don't hold well in end grain MDF but glue does. have you considered the European style hinges (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=55448&cat=3,41241,55420)that allow for full overlay of the door so you don't need a face frame?

[Orange Apron]

WP is correct. Your mostly using the brads to hold the frame in place while the glue sets up in clamps. If you use the euro hinges you can make a frameless cabinet and you will get a little more accesible interior space. They even have some surface mount Euro hinges at Home Depot in case you dont have a drill press. Dont plan a size for your doors thought until you have the hinges, because different hinges can give different overlays, at the shop I work at we have 3 different "standard" overlays alone

[rprice54]

i put a poplar face frame on a mdf cabinet with glue and brads. the glue holds just fine. even on a wooden cabinet- the strength provided by brads is minimal. the glue does the work for you.

If you go without a face frame, be careful drilling into the MDF. Standard wood screws don't hold as well and tend to strip out if you overtighten. I specifically went with a wood face frame to provide a solid anchor for big doors.

[TOD]

I would not even use the brads. Biscuit joinery would work well in this case.

[zeker]

I agree with TOD. Biscuit joinery for attaching wooden face frames to MDF especially if you are going to hang doors on the fames.

[Hef]

Thanks guys...I just ended up using solid plywood for the casework. Turned out great!

[steveKane]

Also consider pocket-hole joinery for the face frame, if it can be hidden or if it doesn't matter. I made some built-in cabinets for my office using MDF cases and poplar faceframes. Phase one of this project, I used biscuits. I discovered pocket-hole joinery shortly afterwards, and it sped things up considerably (in addition to ditching my super-cheap Craftsman table saw in favor of the TS-3650, but that's another story).

[rprice54]

I read an article in Wood magazine where the biscuits don't add much strength the the butt joint, compared to pocket screws which do. Of course mortise-tenon was the strongest, but pocket hole provided plenty of strength for a face frame. It's all I use for face frames, and I know the custom cabinet shops in my area do the same.