View Full Version : What saw to use question?
Woodywoodchuck
11-25-2007, 11:06 AM
Hi, Im going to build a walnut table with cherry inlay. The table is going to be 2.5 inches thick with a slight arc to it as in picture. Theres two ways I can think of cutting it.
One on a bandsaw but its going to be very difficult due to wieght unless I can talk client into only arc-ing sides., then I can cut it in one piece before glue up.
My second thought was to rent a 12 inch skill saw or beam saw and cut it proud of line and then buy a power hand planer and due the rest and then finish up with sanders.
Anyone else have a any ideas?
Thanks in advance.2273
hewood
11-25-2007, 11:15 AM
Is the 2.5" thickness going to be from a single 2.5" thick board or will that be built up?
papadan
11-25-2007, 11:16 AM
Cut it proud with a jig saw or even a reciprocating saw. Make a hardboard pattern and use it to run a pattern bit around the edge to final size. The pattern bit wont cut all the way through the 2 1/2" top but a second pass with the bearing riding on the first cut will finish it nicely using a top bearing bit and a fixed base router.
Woodywoodchuck
11-25-2007, 01:01 PM
Is the 2.5" thickness going to be from a single 2.5" thick board or will that be built up?
12/4 walnut. 110 board feet!
Woodywoodchuck
11-25-2007, 01:02 PM
Cut it proud with a jig saw or even a reciprocating saw. Make a hardboard pattern and use it to run a pattern bit around the edge to final size. The pattern bit wont cut all the way through the 2 1/2" top but a second pass with the bearing riding on the first cut will finish it nicely using a top bearing bit and a fixed base router.
Thats an idea. I assume jigsaw blades do come longer .
Cephus
11-25-2007, 01:56 PM
I'd recommend using the template and router table method, it should work well and cutting the other side of the top is easy, just flip it over and let the bearing ride against the portion you've already routed, it'll match the top and bottom sections of the tabletop and make them flush.
suggestion, jsut thicken the edge of the table save the lumber, if done one can do a glue up of the out side edge and band saw it and even sand it, glue on the top and router with a bearing down to the thickened edge, that is glued on under the table,
if you wanted to, one could glue up an edge and an end, and then use a band saw to cut both edges out of the glue up and both ends out of the other glue up, making the edge about 3/4" thick, and the glue up can be laminated in such a way that the ends are not laminated all the way out to the end,
( . is no lamination or wood, X is wood ).
..................XXXXXXXXXXXXXX.................. ...
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX..........................XXXXXXXXXXXX
If you want the entire top 2 1/2" thick use popular or some other filler wood where it will never be seen,
papadan
11-25-2007, 05:42 PM
Yes you can get longer jigsaw blades. Using a router table has the same issue as using a bandsaw to cut out the shape. The top is just too large and heavy to handle and control. A handheld router will work very well for this.
Cephus
11-25-2007, 05:59 PM
Yes you can get longer jigsaw blades. Using a router table has the same issue as using a bandsaw to cut out the shape. The top is just too large and heavy to handle and control. A handheld router will work very well for this.
Depends on how big your router table is, doesn't it? I have two, one built into the wing of my tablesaw and it's plenty big enough for just about anything. My stand-alone has flip up wings, useful for making long moldings but also perfect for something like this.
People with tiny benchtop tables will have trouble, but they have trouble with most things because they have a tiny router table.
Rafael
11-25-2007, 07:08 PM
Papadan's way is the way to do it. I've done similar things with large pieces that way and it is the easiest, fastest, safest and most accurate way.
Woodywoodchuck
11-25-2007, 08:47 PM
Depends on how big your router table is, doesn't it? I have two, one built into the wing of my tablesaw and it's plenty big enough for just about anything. My stand-alone has flip up wings, useful for making long moldings but also perfect for something like this.
People with tiny benchtop tables will have trouble, but they have trouble with most things because they have a tiny router table.
I have a rockler router table.I can just use a handheld.
papadan
11-26-2007, 04:04 AM
My table is 24x48 with a 7518 and Mast-R-Lift. I would use handheld for sure for a table top this large. :D
Woussko
11-26-2007, 10:54 AM
In case this might help here's the listing of Bosch T shank jigsaw blades. Please check lengths out.
http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-detail.htm?H=176309&G=54783
In case you need U shank type
http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-detail.htm?H=176310&G=54790
wbrooks
11-26-2007, 11:45 AM
Make sure you watch both sides of the cut if you use the jigsaw method. When cutting arcs at 2.5" thick with a jigsaw the blades have a tendency to cut at an angle. As you arc left and push forward the blade will want to cut towards the inside of the table at the bottom of the cut
jbergstrom
11-26-2007, 04:14 PM
The table looks and sounds like an interesting project :)
You've gotten some good advice here and I would agree with the method suggested by papadan :thumbup2:
Show us some pics of before, during and after if you can...
We love pics :D:cool:
Woodywoodchuck
11-26-2007, 07:00 PM
Thanks the table is a challenge. Working with wood 3 inches and 4 inches thick is time consuming and heavy. Just the glue up of table is a pain and then I have to haul it in half to another shop to plane it at 22 inches or so widths x 2 pcs. Then theres the inlay which will be a challenge getting the right jigs setup and fitting the inlay in.
I will attach pics.I wont be starting till monday.
Thanks
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