some of jobs picts

[westcoastplumber]

I'm posting this for my hubs!! He will edit the post after dinner(descriptions)

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[All Clear Sewer]

I think I see a small problem here ;)......rotflmao
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/4379/picture067cu5.jpg

[westcoastplumber]

I think I see a small problem here ;)......rotflmao
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/4379/picture067cu5.jpg


LOL, that is just sitting there resting, it is not glued in place, I set it there so everyone would know there is a toilet there:p

[Herk]

I know there must be a reason for two sets of stubouts on one side of the wall . . .

[plumbdog10]

And?

[westcoastplumber]

I know there must be a reason for two sets of stubouts on one side of the wall . . .


2 colds, one for the k/s faucet and purification faucet

2 hots, one for the k/s faucet and dishwasher

there is also a cold for the hoise bibb going out the back.

eliminates the 2 way angle stops

[All Clear Sewer]

you know I just had to do it ;) :D

[Herk]

Aha! It's a kitchen. I always plumbed my water lines out of the floor for easier future repairs. :)

And I used copper tees under the sink for things like a dishwasher. And I never needed a purification faucet. We have good water. Plus, I usually had the sink drain to the left of the water lines, to line up with the left side strainer. (Wash on left, rinse and disposer on right.)

I don't do construction or remodels anymore, so I get to miss out on all that stuff like composite counters and undercounter sinks.

[drtyhands]

And the kitchen water supplies have an 18" spread centered on the sink to keep the sprayer hose from hanging up.

[drtyhands]

you know I just had to do it ;) :D
no that is actually the finished elevation.Its the siesmic floor for earthquakes.Robert just hasn't hung the #12x8" brass screws in the flange yet to hold it to the float:p

[westcoastplumber]

Aha! It's a kitchen. I always plumbed my water lines out of the floor for easier future repairs. :)

And I used copper tees under the sink for things like a dishwasher. And I never needed a purification faucet. We have good water. Plus, I usually had the sink drain to the left of the water lines, to line up with the left side strainer. (Wash on left, rinse and disposer on right.)

I don't do construction or remodels anymore, so I get to miss out on all that stuff like composite counters and undercounter sinks.


Actually the waters were coming out of the floor, it was a cheap re-pipe. I move all my stuff in the wall, it looks better and is cleaner.:D

[PLUMBER RICK]

[quote=westcoastplumber;106705]I'm posting this for my hubs!! He will edit the post after dinner(descriptions)

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/3011/picture071un4.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/595/picture068th3.jpg



robert, i don't want to be the one to bust your chops:D but a grundfos circulating pump can't be installed with the shaft in a vertical position. a horizontal position is the correct orientation.

you will be installing a timer too:confused:

also i like a union on the prv discharge line.

otherwise nice installation.

rick.

[westcoastplumber]

[quote=westcoastplumber;106705]I'm posting this for my hubs!! He will edit the post after dinner(descriptions)

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/3011/picture071un4.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/595/picture068th3.jpg



robert, i don't want to be the one to bust your chops:D but a grundfos circulating pump can't be installed with the shaft in a vertical position. a horizontal position is the correct orientation.

you will be installing a timer too:confused:

also i like a union on the prv discharge line.

otherwise nice installation.

rick.


Hmmm, it will be changed on monday. Yeah, a union can be nice on a t&p.

I don't do electrical work, the timer will be installed by and electrician, along with a switch to turn it on and off.

[yasudaplumbing]

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/595/picture068th3.jpg

Robert,

What type of switch is being used to activate the HW recirc. pump? Timer or Thermostatic Sensor?

Does code require you to completely hard pipe the gas supply?
I normally use the Brasscraft gas flex with the included ball valve.


http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3726/picture062ne7.jpg

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9660/picture060ry4.jpg


2 colds, one for the k/s faucet and purification faucet

2 hots, one for the k/s faucet and dishwasher

there is also a cold for the hoise bibb going out the back.

eliminates the 2 way angle stops
Great Job Robert, this is the way I do it also, always 4 stub outs for the Kitchen Sink, regardless if the plans/specs show a dishwasher and/or ice maker/purifier.
It never fails, 2 weeks after the owner moves in, you get a call..."we wanna add in an Instant Hot, or Water Purifier, etc."

Good wide spread on the Hot & Cold supplies. I also do this, allows for a lot of free movement in the cabinet for those pull out spray hoses. Don't ya just hate it when the pull out hose catches on the angle stop?

Are Long Sweep Elbows required by code there? Here the code allows us to use the Medium Sweeps for offsets below flood rim height.



Aha! It's a kitchen. I always plumbed my water lines out of the floor for easier future repairs. :)
The cabinet installers will shoot me if I do that. If structual conditions allow it, I always stub out of the wall.
And I used copper tees under the sink for things like a dishwasher. And I never needed a purification faucet. We have good water. Plus, I usually had the sink drain to the left of the water lines, to line up with the left side strainer. (Wash on left, rinse and disposer on right.)
To me, by stubbing out extra pipes, it eliminates the need to torch inside of the cabinet, especially with the high end european cabinets now a days. If you are gonna bring out the torch, it might as well be during the rough in stage.

I find that placement of the disposer really depends on the homeowners washing habits and/or placement of the dishwasher. Whatever they decide, you are safer by stubbing out in the center.
FWIW, the stubout should be on the disposer side, not on the strainer side, this way the disposer shoots straight down the baffle tee.
I don't do construction or remodels anymore, so I get to miss out on all that stuff like composite counters and undercounter sinks.
These are just my opinions, Robert's may be different.



Tracy

[westcoastplumber]

Yasuda, m/s are required by code, they do not have to be long sweeps, it is what the guy at the supply house threw in the box, and I didn't unpack until I got to the job site, m/s are fine, but to late to change.

As long as we have a drain fitting below the flood level rim of the fixture, thats whats important.

[drtyhands]

as water falls vertical to horizontal=long
horizontal to vertical=M/S

[DuckButter]

Freaking neat work, clean and tidy.
Are there air chambers on the shower valve?
On KS stubs I sweat two tee's on, pointing up and down on the finish...up to faucet feeds, down to DW & Ice maker.
Here vents can't go any more than 45 degree's below flood, except with permission from the local inspector for bow vents.
What diameter is that recirc line?

[drtyhands]

A well earned 3/4"

[Herk]

At first, I didn't realize it was a kitchen, which explains the confusion regarding four water lines. Nice idea to spread them to avoid hoses. But I associated pics of a water heater with 'utility room' and thought it might be for a utility sink of some kind.

It's been quite a few years since I plumbed a house in copper. I was using manifold plastic systems for a long time, so each fixture gets its own pipe. The dishwasher would be piped directly under the dishwasher rather than through the cabinets, for example. Icemaker line gets its own line and box, any addition by the homeowner later would be a cinch since I always left extra outlets. And avoiding walls not only protects from freezing (on outside walls), but makes for easy replacement/repair.

We don't have to strap water heaters here, either. Maybe one day we'll have an earthquake and that will change.

I wouldn't use a union on a PRV because it makes it easier for the HO to mess with it. And remember, this isn't a money area - when we bid a house here, we don't add anything extra. In fact, from what I've seen lately, we don't even pay attention to code. Some horrible stuff going in these days. Maybe I should take up housing again just to show 'em how it's done.

I'm probably going back to a 3-year-old duplex today where the plumber piped the PRV right into the washing machine trap . . .

[drtyhands]

[quote=westcoastplumber;106705]I'm posting this for my hubs!! He will edit the post after dinner(descriptions)

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/3011/picture071un4.jpg

http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/595/picture068th3.jpg



robert, i don't want to be the one to bust your chops:D but a grundfos circulating pump can't be installed with the shaft in a vertical position. a horizontal position is the correct orientation.

you will be installing a timer too:confused:

also i like a union on the prv discharge line.

otherwise nice installation.

rick.
Why do you want me to buy you a union when the next heater is going to have the line reconfigured anyway(chances are):)

[westcoastplumber]

[quote=PLUMBER RICK;106727]
Why do you want me to buy you a union when the next heater is going to have the line reconfigured anyway(chances are):)



That is a very valid point adam. I never use unions, one other member made a good point with resident tampering.

Although, a union would be good when changing out the t&p, but thats why you cut and install a slip cplg.

I am not in the habit of making things easier for the customer to do themselves due to the liabilities and the fact that I am building a business and a profession, this is not my hobby.

Hey Adam, the rain has you in the house also?? I cleared my day today because it was all outside work and maybe my christmas present will come by monday, so I can use it when I need it on monday:eek::idea2:

[westcoastplumber]

Robert,

What type of switch is being used to activate the HW recirc. pump? Timer or Thermostatic Sensor?

Does code require you to completely hard pipe the gas supply?
I normally use the Brasscraft gas flex with the included ball valve.

Tracy

Commercial water heaters, 100 gallon electronic ignition have to be hard piped in, on this water heater, I had to use a nipple, 90 and a nipple cause I didn't have a longer flex on my van.

I change all the old spring loaded gas cocks to the new code rotator valves, or the "ball valves"

The customers are having a electrician come and install a timer and a switch, then the pump will be wired into that.

[drtyhands]

Wimp,

What are you afraid your GUCCI shirt will get wrinkled!!!!!

AAAAHHHA-HA-HAAAA!!!!

Can you tell I love the rain?

:p:p:p

Adam:)

[westcoastplumber]

Wimp,

What are you afraid your GUCCI shirt will get wrinkled!!!!!

AAAAHHHA-HA-HAAAA!!!!

Can you tell I love the rain?

:p:p:p

Adam:)


I love the rain also, I just hate to push jobs off until the next day, or in this case monday.

All exterior work today and it had to rain:speechless: The only day of the year and it rains. I hope it pours the rest of the day!!!

[plumberscrack]

Looks good Robert,

Make sure you turn that pump down like Rick said or it will die before the warranty is up.

Grumphos makes a nice DHW circulator with a built in timer on it. It's perfect for this application. Can't remember the model off hand. Prolly half the price of the one installed here.

Who were the other 2 guys that put it on the stand for you?:grin:

[ToUtahNow]

Looks good Robert,


Who were the other 2 guys that put it on the stand for you?:grin:

It took three Zeljka, Charlie and Dumbo.

Mark

[MrsSeatDown]

Mark, it isn't nice to call Rob dumbo:angel:

[westcoastplumber]

LOL, you all are so silly, I got it up there with my wench silly folks.


actually, it was me and another contractor, it was only 2 of us :clapping:


We did some :soapbox: and a little :shrug: when it fell the first 3 times, but

then after the :boring: and a little :bash: we set it in perfectly.

[drtyhands]

Robert...You've been steeling the electricians safety plates again.Put them back where you found them:p

[All Clear Sewer]

no that is actually the finished elevation.Its the siesmic floor for earthquakes.Robert just hasn't hung the #12x8" brass screws in the flange yet to hold it to the float:p

Shouldn't it have flex pipe? You know like a radiator hose ? :outtahere:

[PLUMBER RICK]

[quote=PLUMBER RICK;106727]
Why do you want me to buy you a union when the next heater is going to have the line reconfigured anyway(chances are):)

the same reason why he has a union at the circulating line to tank.

heaters are suppose to have a union type connection for all connections. this includes prv's.

the only time i don't install a union is when it's an outdoor install with just a 4' straight drop. no offsets or anything to keep me from unscrewing the drop.

i actually use a 3/4'' compression x mip adapter on the connection. this gives me the union connection without having to solder next to the prv or tank.

rick.

[drtyhands]

I Was not aware that it was required by our code.Thousands of heaters and I've never seen a union on the prv.Time to hit the book.
My hat is of to you Rick.

I think I'm starting to rub a bald spot:p

[All Clear Sewer]

[quote=drtyhands;106803]

the same reason why he has a union at the circulating line to tank.

heaters are suppose to have a union type connection for all connections. this includes prv's.


Is this IPC?

[DUNBAR]

I use Watt's N55's with sweat double unions for PRV's.


Why does the T&P require a union connection? In my area it should be solid and within 2" of the finished floor.


I use 3/4" DUF's on water heaters even though there are dielectric nipples sticking out of them.

I absolutely do not agree with any copper female adaptor to galvanized whether dielectric or not.

I've removed too many connections that leaked a considerable amount in that fashion.


That's not to say I've ever removed a dielectric union that wasn't completely clogged either......they suck and they are flow restricting.


Somebody quick! Make them in brass and get rich!

[westcoastplumber]

[quote=drtyhands;106803]

the same reason why he has a union at the circulating line to tank.

heaters are suppose to have a union type connection for all connections. this includes prv's.

the only time i don't install a union is when it's an outdoor install with just a 4' straight drop. no offsets or anything to keep me from unscrewing the drop.

i actually use a 3/4'' compression x mip adapter on the connection. this gives me the union connection without having to solder next to the prv or tank.

rick.


Ummmm, I want a code section please.....by what you are saying, even the outdoor 4' drops for the t&p on top of the unit would need a union also:confused:

I will only believe it when I see a code section....

[drtyhands]

hey,fireball:p

Can you edit the last post for me it looks like I posted it;)

[ToUtahNow]

I believe if you take a closer look at the code book it will reveal the water supply lines are required to have unions within 12" of the water heater. As the T&P drain line is not a water supply line it is not required to have a union.

Mark

[wookie]

Robert,

Nice!

It might be handy to have a line going from sink cabinet( water filter ) to the refrigerator. 3/8" polypropolyene or 1/2" wirsbo. Maybe refer is next to the sink cabinet??

wookie

[westcoastplumber]

Robert,

Nice!

It might be handy to have a line going from sink cabinet( water filter ) to the refrigerator. 3/8" polypropolyene or 1/2" wirsbo. Maybe refer is next to the sink cabinet??

wookie


The refer is on the other side of the kitchen and it is a sub zero, without a water dispenser or ice maker, there will be a ice dispenser in the bar fridge which will be in the island.

those lines are for the filter, faucet and the dishwasher;)

[yasudaplumbing]

[quote=PLUMBER RICK;106874]


Ummmm, I want a code section please.....by what you are saying, even the outdoor 4' drops for the t&p on top of the unit would need a union also:confused:

I will only believe it when I see a code section....

I have never seen this in the UPC either.
The only thing I know of is, that the end of the pipe cannot be threaded and must be reamed to the full bore, secondly, the pipe cannot terminate more than 6" above the floor/ground.
__________________________________________________ _______________

You guys are confusing me by using "PRV". I guess it must be a mainland thing.

I'm used to:

T&P for Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve
PRV for Pressure Reducing Valve (or Regulator)Doesn't blueprints reflect this Acronym info as well?

Tracy

[wookie]

Hey Robert,

I understand the copper you have plumbed up for the H/C, dishwasher and filter. I was refering the the refer ice/water line which there is no need for but how about the ice maker in the island? I realize this is a raised foundation and the line can be run after the fact. When installing a reverse osmosis system its always a bummer when I can't get a line to the icemaker from the sink area. Slab on grade is usually where this occurs.I just think its easier and cleaner to run the line ahead of time thats all! Looks like we're going to have a dry Saturday!!...... unless those sharkbites start leaking:)

wookie

[PLUMBER RICK]

I believe if you take a closer look at the code book it will reveal the water supply lines are required to have unions within 12" of the water heater. As the T&P drain line is not a water supply line it is not required to have a union.

Mark

609.5 "unions shall be installed in the water supply piping within 12'' of regulating equipment, water heating, conditioning tanks, and similar equipment that may require service by removal or replacement in a manner that will facilitate it's ready removal."

this is the best i can find.

the city of santa monica inspector required this. he not only enforced the code, he taught it at our u.a. apprenticeship school 30 years ago.

it's up to interpretation and i've done it on all installations that are not a straight drop piece.

rick.

[ToUtahNow]

609.5 "unions shall be installed in the water supply piping within 12'' of regulating equipment, water heating, conditioning tanks, and similar equipment that may require service by removal or replacement in a manner that will facilitate it's ready removal."

this is the best i can find.

the city of santa monica inspector required this. he not only enforced the code, he taught it at our u.a. apprenticeship school 30 years ago.

it's up to interpretation and i've done it on all installations that are not a straight drop piece.

rick.

You found the right section but the only water supply lines on the water heater are the hot and the cold water lines. Santa Monica may have an amendment which requires a union on the T&P drain line but I doubt they interpret the drain line to be a water supply line.

Mark

[PLUMBER RICK]

so if the hot and cold can be disconnected without cutting the piping. then the only thing that needs to be reworked is the relief valve. doesn't really make sense.

609.5 "unions shall be installed in the water supplypiping within 12'' of regulating equipment, water heating, conditioning tanks, and similar equipment that may require service by removal or replacement in a manner that will facilitate it's ready removal."



if the relief valve needs replacement, then you would need to cut piping to remove and reconnect. a union would allow for "ready removal"

a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting is a great choice as both are considered a union and are much less costly than a typical cxc union or
mip x c union. and they don't require soldering:D

the water, hot and cold, possible circulating line, gas line all have a form of a union. the only thing keeping the heater from being removed without cutting would be the relief valve.

still up to interpretation.

rick.

[yasudaplumbing]

so if the hot and cold can be disconnected without cutting the piping. then the only thing that needs to be reworked is the relief valve. doesn't really make sense.

609.5 "unions shall be installed in the water supplypiping within 12'' of regulating equipment, water heating, conditioning tanks, and similar equipment that may require service by removal or replacement in a manner that will facilitate it's ready removal."



if the relief valve needs replacement, then you would need to cut piping to remove and reconnect. a union would allow for "ready removal"

a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting is a great choice as both are considered a union and are much less costly than a typical cxc union or
mip x c union. and they don't require soldering:D

the water, hot and cold, possible circulating line, gas line all have a form of a union. the only thing keeping the heater from being removed without cutting would be the relief valve.

still up to interpretation.

rick.

Good point Rick. I see what you are trying to say.

Tracy

[ToUtahNow]

Rick,

You are my buddy but remember you are quoting a code section from Chapter 6. The only thing Chapter 6 relates to is water supply lines. I'm not saying it is not a good idea to use a union or that it is illegal I am simply saying it is not a code requirement.

Mark

[drtyhands]

so if the hot and cold can be disconnected without cutting the piping. then the only thing that needs to be reworked is the relief valve. doesn't really make sense.

609.5 "unions shall be installed in the water supplypiping within 12'' of regulating equipment, water heating, conditioning tanks, and similar equipment that may require service by removal or replacement in a manner that will facilitate it's ready removal."



if the relief valve needs replacement, then you would need to cut piping to remove and reconnect. a union would allow for "ready removal"

a compression fitting or a shark bite fitting is a great choice as both are considered a union and are much less costly than a typical cxc union or
mip x c union. and they don't require soldering:D

the water, hot and cold, possible circulating line, gas line all have a form of a union. the only thing keeping the heater from being removed without cutting would be the relief valve.

still up to interpretation.

rick.
So what your saying Rick,If you were an inspector you would be forced to fail my water heater instalation because I did not put a union on my pressure relief valve.

What's the big deal anyway with all the rave with sharkbite fittings.You got em' on your truck use one here.

Adam:D:D

[westcoastplumber]

Hey Robert,

I understand the copper you have plumbed up for the H/C, dishwasher and filter. I was refering the the refer ice/water line which there is no need for but how about the ice maker in the island? I realize this is a raised foundation and the line can be run after the fact. When installing a reverse osmosis system its always a bummer when I can't get a line to the icemaker from the sink area. Slab on grade is usually where this occurs.I just think its easier and cleaner to run the line ahead of time thats all! Looks like we're going to have a dry Saturday!!...... unless those sharkbites start leaking:)

wookie

LOL, on the sharkbites, yeah, it is a bummer when the filter line cannot be run due to the slab and the refer is all the way across the kitchen with no cabinets in between.

I have had a few like this, it all depends on the customer, sometimes there is a bathroom behind where I feed off the cold and install a ice maker box, sometimes I just have to suck it up and run a 1/2" line up and over and then install a box.

I have seen hack jobs where the plumber ran plastic or soft copper over the cieling, through the cieling, all types of things, makes for an ugly job.