Angle Stop Install inside a Kohler Cabinet

[yasudaplumbing]

OK guys,

I'm posting the pics on my technique.

Ben had the idea of using a crowsfoot wrench, which is what I would have used if my crowsfoot set went up that high. The largest crowsfoot I have is a 3/4".

Usually I use a 12" adjustable wrench and a 15/16" open end wrench to install my angle/straight stops.
I have a difficult time using those Pasco & Ridgid stop wrenches, not enough leverage for me.





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The RIDGID basin wrench worked almost perfectly for this because the 5/8" compression nut is nearly the same size as a Lavatory supply nut. However, the chrome finish on the nut was marred slightly from the sharp teeth, hence the reason why I would have preferred to use a crowsfoot wrench instead.

Again, Thanks for all the great comments!

Tracy

[PLUMBER RICK]

not that i've ever installed an angle stop inside of a medicine cabinet.

but i've installed my share of stops inside of very tight cabinets when i'm a day late. even inside of ice maker boxes when they didn't come factory installed.

i've found that the pasco combination 15/16'' x 5/8'' ratcheting wrench is awkward as it's 2 sided design is not productive when you do production work. i do like their angle stop helper handle. this is the one that has a 1/2'' slip joint and 3/8'' compression thread on a 6'' long reversible handle. this allows for holding the stop in place without marring the finish.

i do use a 15/16'' ratcheting angle stop wrench. similar to the pasco, but without the combination 5/8'' on the other side. the wrench is approx. 7'' long and it's got enough leverage for both new installations and removing old stops.

sorry no pictures at this time, but i'll see if i can find a stock photo or take one.

rick.

[DuckButter]

The only time I have a problem with chrome angle stops on compression is under pedastils, then I use an open ended wrench when the adjustable won't fit in the tight space.
I don't use 1/2" compression on type L...I think that might just be a fettish in my area. Personally the fact that they can rotate in place makes me uncomfy.

[plumberscrack]

Do I see escutcheons on those valves Tracy? :confused:

I thought you didn't like using them?

[yasudaplumbing]

Do I see escutcheons on those valves Tracy? :confused:

I thought you didn't like using them?

Yes, they are escutcheons, to be exact, those are the BrassCraft 649 (http://www.drillspot.com/products/82958/Brass_Craft_649_Escutcheon_Stainless_Steel) which are Stainless Steel coated or something. They are more resistant to rusting than the other brands.

I do use them on all of my jobs because it's an industry standard, along with the 1 1/2" IPS C.P. escutcheons/flanges. Most customers want them installed for esthetic reasons, knowing full well they will rust eventually.:speechless:

I just choose not to use them at my own house.:)

Tracy

Tracy

[Herk]

I usually use the white plastic escutcheons - ratproofing being required by code. They don't rust or deteriorate. I also have a pile of both 1-1/2" and 1-1/4" deep escutcheons from Sioux Chief that are quite handy.

[Tyman]

Thanks for the tip.

[plumbdog10]

not that i've ever installed an angle stop inside of a medicine cabinet.

but i've installed my share of stops inside of very tight cabinets when i'm a day late. even inside of ice maker boxes when they didn't come factory installed.

i've found that the pasco combination 15/16'' x 5/8'' ratcheting wrench is awkward as it's 2 sided design is not productive when you do production work. i do like their angle stop helper handle. this is the one that has a 1/2'' slip joint and 3/8'' compression thread on a 6'' long reversible handle. this allows for holding the stop in place without marring the finish.

i do use a 15/16'' ratcheting angle stop wrench. similar to the pasco, but without the combination 5/8'' on the other side. the wrench is approx. 7'' long and it's got enough leverage for both new installations and removing old stops.

sorry no pictures at this time, but i'll see if i can find a stock photo or take one.

rick.

Agree with Rick on this one, even though it annoys me.

[PLUMBER RICK]

Agree with Rick on this one, even though it annoys me.

thanks dog:D

but you really can't keep agreeing with me:confused:

others might think we are friends:eek:

rick.

[BAPlumber]

thanks dog:D

but you really can't keep agreeing with me:confused:

others might think we are friends:eek:

rick.

You guys are probably neighbors who borrow tools from each other and don't return them.:D

[plumbdog10]

You guys are probably neighbors who borrow tools from each other and don't return them.:D

I wish Rick was my neighbor so I could borrow from his extensive collection. And, yea, it would probably be slow returns, but the dog does have ethics, and they would be returned.

[Bob D.]

2006 NSPC:

2.13 OPENINGS FOR PIPING
a. Openings for plumbing piping shall be sealed as required to maintain
the integrity or roof that has been penetrated.
b. Collars or escutcheon plates shall be provided to cover the openings
around pipes where the piping penetrates walls, floors, or ceilings in
finished areas that are exposed to view.

Its more than aesthetics, they are a code requirement (at least here it is).