Help - Need to Replace Valve

[stanj]

I need to replace the hot water shut off valve under the sink that has the valve knob broke off.:(

The two attached pictures show the valve.

Can someone identify the type of valve I need for a replacement
and
the steps and equipment required :confused:

I was told it was an 1/2 (inlet) x 3/8 compression angle stop.

Something like :

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=100844-143-K2048ABN&lpage=none (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=100844-143-K2048ABN&lpage=none)

Also, is it true what I have read that replacing this valve is a bit tricky because once the ferrule is tightened, it may be on for good and may have to be cut off if a new valve is installed

thanks

[biscuit]

It appears that you were told right, but you have plenty of copper that can be cut off.

Remove the present valve, cut the copper pipe off behind the ferrule and install a new one. It should be that simple.

IF you run into trouble, call a plumber:D

[gear junkie]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RWB9

You got the right idea with the angle stop but you link description is a screw on, not compression. Compression is fine, just use a back up wrench when tightening. I apply some teflon paste to the threads to get a tighter fit but this is optional. The same angle stops are sold at lowes and hd, I just used grainger because of picture clarity.

[westcoastplumber]

I would recommend 1/4 turns and remember to turn the water off at the house main and drain the system before you remove the stop. In your case, I would just cut the copper back, no need to worry about pulling the ferrall and all.

It sounds funny, but I had an emergency call where the guy pulled his off in the bathroom for the toilet and didn't turn the water off until he figured out it should have been off.

[Bob D.]

And DON'T buy another POS with the plastic stem, get one that is all brass.

[PLUMBER RICK]

And DON'T buy another POS with the plastic stem, get one that is all brass.


bob, you must be dating yourself. those were the good old days.

this is a brasscraft angle stop and they haven't used a brass stem in years.

the 1/4 turn are the way to go now.

rick.

[Bob D.]

bob, you must be dating yourself. those were the good old days.

this is a brasscraft angle stop and they haven't used a brass stem in years.

the 1/4 turn are the way to go now.

rick.

Guess you are right there Rick, glad I got a few from the last house I renovated then that should last me until I am gone. I'll leave the remainder to ya in my will if you want them, along with my caulking irons. I've got a few that I modified for working in tight spots and such. :)

[PLUMBER RICK]

Guess you are right there Rick, glad I got a few from the last house I renovated then that should last me until I am gone. I'll leave the remainder to ya in my will if you want them, along with my caulking irons. I've got a few that I modified for working in tight spots and such. :)

no need for you to pass:eek:

but there are a few here looking for some caulking irons;)

i actually installed the real high end kohler:eek: angle stops at my toilets because they look nice with cross handles.

they do work nice when i test them. probalbly the only praise you'll hear from me on kohler:deadhorse:

what i have seen over the years with these acetal? stems is that the chlorine in the water will rot them off at the packing nut.

hopefully the newer 1/4 turn ball valve stops won't come to

bite us in the :kma: .

rick.

[yasudaplumbing]

I need to replace the hot water shut off valve under the sink that has the valve knob broke off.:(

The two attached pictures show the valve.

Can someone identify the type of valve I need for a replacement
and
the steps and equipment required :confused:

I was told it was an 1/2 (inlet) x 3/8 compression angle stop.

Something like :

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=100844-143-K2048ABN&lpage=none (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=100844-143-K2048ABN&lpage=none)

Also, is it true what I have read that replacing this valve is a bit tricky because once the ferrule is tightened, it may be on for good and may have to be cut off if a new valve is installed

thanks

You need a BrassCraft KTCR19. This is the 1/4 Turn ball valve replacement, as opposed to a CR19 which has a plastic stem.
You have 2 options for installation, if the original valve was installed improperly, the ferrule may come off by wiggling the nut with pliers and pulling simultaneously, if it doesn't you need a puller.
Or, like the others mentioned, just cut the pipe further back. Use 2 large Crescent wrenches, apply pipe dope or teflon paste to the ring & threads, and tighten till the threads are just about buried.

While you're at it, get rid of those vinyl supply lines and get yourself some braided ones. BrassCraft B1-9AF is the part number for a 9" flex line. Substitute 12,16,20,30 in place of 9 for your proper part # length.



And DON'T buy another POS with the plastic stem, get one that is all brass.

bob, you must be dating yourself. those were the good old days.

this is a brasscraft angle stop and they haven't used a brass stem in years.

the 1/4 turn are the way to go now.

rick.

FYI, according to my local BrassCraft Rep., the valves with brass stems are still available under special order. I seriously thought about ordering these before the came out with the "KT (Kwik Turn)" Series.
Some of the plastic stemmed valves would only last several years depending on the geographical area.
If you'll notice, the integral stops made by BrassCraft have brass stems in them, Such as the DRS44M (1/2" male sweat X 1/2" female sweat) which I use to add stops to a shower valve without factory ones.

Tracy

[stanj]

wow..

thanks for all of the quick input....

sounds like you all have done this for a long time :lol:

Question

At http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0118599.html (http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0118599.html)

TheBrassCraft KTCR19 shows as 5/8" O.D. Compression x 3/8" O.D. as does

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RWB9 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RWB9)


Is this 5/8 x 3/8 the one I need or do I need a 1/2x3/8 compression:confused:

How can you tell size is correct by the picture (seems like a close match)?
My guess is you all have seen enough to know :p

Good idea on the vinyl supply lines :D

thanks again

[westcoastplumber]

wow..

thanks for all of the quick input....

sounds like you all have done this for a long time :lol:

Question

At http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0118599.html (http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0118599.html)

TheBrassCraft KTCR19 shows as 5/8" O.D. Compression x 3/8" O.D. as does

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RWB9 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RWB9)


Is this 5/8 x 3/8 the one I need or do I need a 1/2x3/8 compression:confused:

How can you tell size is correct by the picture (seems like a close match)?
My guess is you all have seen enough to know :p

Good idea on the vinyl supply lines :D

thanks again


Vinyl supply lines to me are junk, I have seen many fail. I recommend the braided stainless steel supply lines, and you need a 1/2" copper x 3/8 compression stop and you wil be all set.

[drtyhands]

Why are we still seeing the 3/8" compressionX1/2" nut being used.Is there an advantage over the 1/2"nutX1/2" nut flexes.I have only used the 3/8" when the existing angle stop dictated.

[westcoastplumber]

Why are we still seeing the 3/8" compressionX1/2" nut being used.Is there an advantage over the 1/2"nutX1/2" nut flexes.I have only used the 3/8" when the existing angle stop dictated.


3/8" nuts are making a comeback because the faucets are now coming out with 3/8" stainless supply lines already attached to the faucet, no need for an adapter

[drtyhands]

3/8" nuts are making a comeback because the faucets are now coming out with 3/8" stainless supply lines already attached to the faucet, no need for an adapter
Excellent point

Note to self...spread faucets to instalation location and install according to fixture requirements.:D

[gear junkie]

You have to read the full description of the item. Westcoast is right on what size angle stop you need-1/2x3/8. But copper is measured and described by inside diameter and is 1/2" ID but 5/8" outside diameter. This is why the grainger description might be confusing. Go to lowe's, hd, whatever and grab an angle stop and take it to the copper pipe and slip it over 1/2" pipe to make sure you got the right size.

[stanj]

Thanks


Westcoast –
What I meant by good idea on the vinyl supply lines was that
braided ones makes more sense. I had braided one installed and when we had our kitchen counter and sink replaced, the plumber put in vinyl ..

I will get the 1/2x3/8… Good tip on taking the stop over to a copper pipe to try it :thumbup2:

[stanj]

I stopped by Lowes and got this one in Brushed Nickel.. :)

http://www.plumbpak.com/NPSpecialAngle.html (http://www.plumbpak.com/NPSpecialAngle.html)


I believe I have what I need now :rolleyes:

I still need to get the braided stainless steel supply lines
My bad on the last response, I replaced my washer and dryer feed lines with braided stainless steel supply lines...not the sink.
I grabbed the vinyl a few yrs back to replace old ones..but will replace these with steel :D