Tool less router table top to TS2400

[mont]

I made two brackets and a router table that I can attach to the TS2400 without any tools and in a minute. I got the idea from a post from "gtlightning98".

First I made a router table using 3/4" melamine shelf. The dimension are 10.5"x21. Then I made two brackets that are fitting in the opening in the front and back rails of the table saw. I cut the bracket oversize and then trimmed them down in order to get a good fit in the rails and for the router table to be flat with the table saw.

Here is the brackets
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2718&stc=1&d=1202962666
Here is the router table and brackets upside down. (Blue tape was used as spacer for getting correct height)
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2719&stc=1&d=1202962666
Here is how it fit together. Because I am using only 3/4" thick top, I added two support across using two IPE (also call Ironwood) strip of 1.5"x0.75. This wood is very strong and unlikely to bow.
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2720&stc=1&d=1202962902

Here is how the bracket fit in the rail
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2721&stc=1&d=1202963238

View from underside of tablesaw with router table
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2722&stc=1&d=1202963354

[mont]

Here is the router table inserted in the TS2400
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2723&stc=1&d=1202963542


The gray stuff around and under the router plate insert is "MinWax High Performance Wood Filler". I did not do a so good job on cutting the hole for the plate. I had some lateral play.

To solve the problem and to level the plate flush with the table, I used the wood filler. The wood filler is like an epoxy. You have about 5 min to work with it until it get too hard.

First I wrapped the router plate with food plastic film (like SaranWrap). The filler will not stick to the film. I put the filler in the hole and then pressed the router plate with a large piece of wood until it is flat with the top. After the filler start to get hard (about 10 to 15 min), I trimmed the excess with a chisel. The excess on the melamine is removed first with a chisel and then with acetone. Then I removed the router plate and let the filler get harder.

With this technique the fit is so tight that the plate has to be push straight in and out. It will not move at all in any directions and it is flush with the table top without using any leveling screws. The router plate is supported all around instead of few locations when using leveling screws.

[ed kerns]

Looks good Mont.I like your brackets.I am doing a very similar thing to my 2400 right now.I used a piece of scrap solid surface counter top for my router table and just let it overhang the rails both sides.I can still use the fence but I had to raise up the
scale reader to clear the new router table top.I dont use it much anyway .I still measure.I also removed the back rail end cap to get another 2 plus inches in the opening.My table top is 12 5/8 x22.I wanted enough room for a miter slot.I dont have an insert yet or a dedicated router.As yet it is untested. I guess that is the next step.
Have fun
Ed

[BobR]

Mont,

Looks very nice! I'm going to try the same setup. This looks like it's a little more functional than the one I built.

[Wagon Man]

Great post, Mont, and sharing of the idea. I like the way you approach it, I'm going to use your method to build one for the Bosch Colt... ;)

Tks again!

[gtlightning98]

Hey, looks great. I'm glad my idea inspired a better one. Looks like a nice system. With the Ipe under that I bet you could stand on it! Your tenon type mounts look like they'd work well and of course the aluminum plate is nice.