Freud LM74M010 Glue Line Rip Blade

[BadgerDave]

For a long time I've been wanting to add the Freud LM74M010 Glue Line Rip Blade to my collection of blades. The recent 25% discount that Amazon was offering on Freud blades was enough incentive for me to order one.

I'm glad that I got such a good deal of course but after receiving this blade and making some test cuts I wish I would have gotten one sooner. Granted this blade is brand new and I did only make my test cuts in oak but all I can say about this blade is WOW! This thing leaves a tearout free edge that is almost as smooth as my 80T crosscut cut-off blade gives me. For anyone looking for a dedicated rip blade for stock under 1", you won't be making a mistake if you choose this blade.

[Pez]

The timing of your post is perfect - I have been considering getting a blade for better glue line edges.

I have been making some end-grain cutting boards (I am new to woodworking and starting with small, easy projects) but have had a hard time with the glue-up of the wood strips. I am getting small spots in the seems where the boards arent glued together. And I never notice until after the glue is set and I remove the clamps. Since I dont have a jointer and wont be able to get for a long time I need a way to get better edges for gluing. I am sure there are other ways but as a novice I dont really know what they are. This blade may be just the ticket.

One question, its only good for stock up to 1"? What if you have something like 8/4 stock?

[hewood]

...One question, its only good for stock up to 1"? What if you have something like 8/4 stock?

Hi Pez - If you've got gobs of power (3+ hp), the LM74 should handle 8/4", but isn't optimized in that range... because of it's very low side clearance angle (the parameter that gives that polished edge), there's more of a tendency to burn in thick wood...it'll depend alot of the wood itself, and your saw's setup. The LM74 delivers glue ready edges as promised, but most good 40T or 50T general purpose blades will also give glueable edges, plus they tend to handle thicker wood a little better and crosscut quite well (WWII, Infinity, LU83/84, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, etc). The Forrest WWII 30T is an excellent blade in the 8/4" range, cutting nearly as cleanly as the 40T but it hogs thru thicker material nearly as well as a 24T dedicated ripper. Dunno what saw you have, but if you plan to cut a lot of 8/4 wood (or thicker), a 24T blade will be easier on your saw...a 24T thin kerf will cut easier yet.

Enjoy that LM74 BD!

[Pez]

I have the 3650 table saw and recently got the WWII blade (40 tooth). I have been very impressed with this blade but the only one I have to compare it with is the blade that came with the 3650. Being a novice the OEM blade seemed decent enough to me but I sure do like the WWII.

[Gofor]

I have a Freud TK406 (thin kerf 60T) and a LU84R011 (50T full kerf) that I used cutting 8/4 kiln dried white oak for my work bench. Both fed about the same rate, (I went slow and steady, I'm guessing about 1 inch per second or a little faster) with no burning. I was ripping 60" boards. The 60T gave a little smoother cut. Either would be fine for what you are doing but the TK406 is less expensive. The reason I used both was because I bought the full kerf while building the bench, and wanted to make a comparison. Both held up well and I am still using both a year later without resharpening (altho they are now getting close to needing it) The glue up seam is only visible due to grain difference.

You may want to try one if you aren't satisfied with what you have. Both were much better than the stock blade IMHO.

Go

PS I use these on my TS3650

[hewood]

...What if you have something like 8/4 stock?...

...Bargain alert. Amazon has the 10" Forrest WWII 30T (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/104-0805898-2868736?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=forrest+30+blade&x=19&y=23) full kerf and TK on sale for $65 shipped. That'll cut your 8/4" boards with style...:)

[jparson1]

I recently purchased the freud fusion 40 tooth combination blade. it is a full kerf blade with huge teeth but i cut 8/4 ash and white oak with it with minimal to no saw marks. Also i recently talked to a freud represenative at a trade show that blade height with freud blades only need to have half tooth sticking above the thickness of your work piece for the way the teeth are cut. Also this blade cuts plywood with no tear out and only 40 teeth

[hewood]

I recently purchased the freud fusion 40 tooth combination blade. it is a full kerf blade with huge teeth but i cut 8/4 ash and white oak with it with minimal to no saw marks. Also i recently talked to a freud represenative at a trade show that blade height with freud blades only need to have half tooth sticking above the thickness of your work piece for the way the teeth are cut. Also this blade cuts plywood with no tear out and only 40 teeth

It's worth noting that the Fusion and similar blades can cut in the range of 2" with a very nice cut if the saw doesn't struggle, but the higher tooth count can create additional heat which can lead to burning or premature tooth wear or both. Ash is reasonably easy to cut, and white oak isn't too bad either, but woods like hard maple, hickory, teak, or purple heart will abraid those sharp points fairly quickly on a Hi-ATB grind like the Fusion or Infinity Super General. It's not a bad idea to save that bulk work for a dedicated ripper and spare your finer blades.

[Wood_Junkie]

...Bargain alert. Amazon has the 10" Forrest WWII 30T (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/104-0805898-2868736?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=forrest+30+blade&x=19&y=23) full kerf and TK on sale for $65 shipped. That'll cut your 8/4" boards with style...:)

Ordered one two days ago... See today that now it's less than $62 shipped for the 30T 10" WWII, full or thin kerf.

Oh well.. have some 10/4 white oak that's gotta get ripped so Junkie needed a new blade!

[jparson1]

[quote=hewood;127017]It's worth noting that the Fusion and similar blades can cut in the range of 2" with a very nice cut if the saw doesn't struggle, but the higher tooth count can create additional heat which can lead to burning or premature tooth wear or both. Ash is reasonably easy to cut, and white oak isn't too bad either, but woods like hard maple, hickory, teak, or purple heart will abraid those sharp points fairly quickly on a Hi-ATB grind like the Fusion or Infinity Super General. It's not a bad idea to save that bulk work for a dedicated ripper and spare your finer blades.[/quote

Thanx for the addtional info

[jparson1]

Thanx for the addtional info and keep an eye on your ten little friends

[hewood]

Ordered one two days ago... See today that now it's less than $62 shipped for the 30T 10" WWII, full or thin kerf.

Oh well.. have some 10/4 white oak that's gotta get ripped so Junkie needed a new blade!

Send 'em a note or call, and they'll credit you the price difference. I've done it many times and they're well acquainted with the routine. :)