Nifty Plumbing Tricks

[SlimTim]

There is so much experience in this forum, I would love learning some of your butt-saving tricks.

This is one you all probably already use -- when you have to replace a pvc collar that's glued on or inside 4" pvc. I use a 3" coupling with as much 3" pvc as necessary to make the span from the pipe to the floor.

I put some pics on a website for some young plumbers here that were curious.
http://raisecollar.timrbaker.com/

The new tile floor scenario is a pretty common occurence. I had one last week though, where the former jackleg had used a fluidmaster collar (the one with the rubber ring at the bottom and allen screws at the top--made for cast iron) inside of 4" pvc pipe and screwed it to the tile floor. After about a year it leaked into the downstairs condo everytime it was flushed. (I've got pics of that somewhere I'll dig out if anyone wants to see it).

What are some of your favorite time saver, get your head out of a noose tricks? Or favorite homemade or revamped tools?

[drtyhands]

Use your tape measure to cut nylon lay-out string for walls and elevations.Pull the string tight and hold 3-4 inches of tape out rigid in front and between your thumb and forefinger,use the sharp edge to cut in one stroke.Some of the old timers don't even know they don't have to waste time going to the truck to get a knife.

[rombo]

use a rag on the bottom of the tank when changing ballcocks instead of draining


when new seats are no where to be found i wire brush and fill with solder, i have even repaired seat-less faucet with solder and the dremel them smooth

[rombo]

slimtim what's with the face on the w.c tank

[Service Guy]

I have so many tricks I do, I couldn't possibly post them all here. One thing I do regarding ballcocks, is use a hand-pump to suck all the water out before I take out the old one. It takes only 30 seconds and makes for clean, dry work.
Also I use a small, electric pump with hose connections to pump out water heaters for changeouts, its 10x faster than gravity draining.
These are just basic stuff that most guys already do, I might post more weird ones as I think of them.

[SlimTim]

The pics on the website are the same ones I sent to the customer, on a single page, along with their invoice. I faded a picture of my eyes onto their toilet tank. It may be a little disconcerting for some but you would have to know this client. She thought it was a hoot.

[rombo]

if you ever get a frost free hose-bib and the stem has snapped you can bevel both ends at the break and braze them.


this is only if it not easily accessible

[SlimTim]

For just the ballcock change out I use either a piece of rubber (like the kind in a repair clamp) or if I forgot to bring that in with me, the cardboard end of the ballcock box is super.

If I have to reset a tank or bowl, I suck the water out with my cordless dewalt wet-vac. That is one of my favorite cordless tools. Whether it's a hole in the yard with water in it or a toilet or trap that "sucker" is the best. If it broke down today I would have a new one on the truck by tomorrow.

[rombo]

For just the ballcock change out I use either a piece of rubber (like the kind in a repair clamp) or if I forgot to bring that in with me, the cardboard end of the ballcock box is super.

If I have to reset a tank or bowl, I suck the water out with my cordless dewalt wet-vac. That is one of my favorite cordless tools. Whether it's a hole in the yard with water in it or a toilet or trap that "sucker" is the best. If it broke down today I would have a new one on the truck by tomorrow.



I never knew they had one i might have to go shopping tomorrow

[SlimTim]

I never knew they had one i might have to go shopping tomorrow

It uses the 18v battery. It also has a 120v cord. I do alot of sprinkler pipe repairs so I keep this beside me to suck the water and dirt out of the pipes before glueing.

Oh, and when you scape all that cr*p on the inside wall of the shower drain. This will suck it out of the trap in a second.

[rombo]

ya i usually lug in the big ridgid to suck the shower drains

[drtyhands]

Our ever so knowledgeable and not heard from here recently Bob D told us we could cut cast iron with a chisel.

That one really saved me a trip down 22 floors to my truck to get a pair of snaps when the general told me the owner wanted to lower the washing machine box under the granite counter top for the new front loaders.

[SlimTim]

[quote=drtyhands;132528]Our ever so knowledgeable and not heard from here recently Bob D told us we could cut cast iron with a chisel.

Do you mind explaining that one? I'd be afraid of splitting it.

[gear junkie]

[quote=drtyhands;132528]Our ever so knowledgeable and not heard from here recently Bob D told us we could cut cast iron with a chisel.

Do you mind explaining that one? I'd be afraid of splitting it.
Just tap the chisel around the pipe, progressively hitting harder each time around the pipe. 4" cracks after about three times around for me.

If I have to solder a line with standing water, I'll blow nitrogen in the pipe(i also do ac so it's on the truck). When you turn off the nitrogen, it'll come streaming out. You can do the same thing by injecting air with your mouth into the pipe.

Carry a foam pad with you, great tool you'll wonder how you did without it.

[Gene Bickford]

Our ever so knowledgeable and not heard from here recently Bob D told us we could cut cast iron with a chisel.

That one really saved me a trip down 22 floors to my truck to get a pair of snaps when the general told me the owner wanted to lower the washing machine box under the granite counter top for the new front loaders.

This can also be done on clay pipe.

[DuckButter]

This is one I have yet to try, but have been told by a friend I once worked with, and seen it posted on another forum...
If you have a leak on PVC in a tight spot where you'd have to replace a bunch of fittings, or the space is tight/hard to reach, close all openings with test balls, put a high powered shop vac in one opening and seal the hose around the pipe to ensure vacuum inside the system.
Start 'er up and apply primer, then cement to the leak.
Some will say thats the wrong way to do it, and it is...but when you expect an inspector there any minute and a leak shows it's ugly head at the last minute...this could save you a half day for reinspection.
Again, I have yet to try it, but have been told firsthand it works.

Also...threading steel gas pipe, if you have no cutting oil...motor oil will work as a temporary fix. Don't make it a habit, cutting oil has additives that oil doesn't to preserve the dies.

[drtyhands]

I was told it's the sulphur.

[JCsPlumbing]

Maybe everyone does this. I lightly coat tank to bowl bolts, bowl bolts, sink mounting bolts/nuts etc. with pipe dope. Prevents corrosion and gives the next plumber a better chance at service or repair.

[gear junkie]

This is one I have yet to try, but have been told by a friend I once worked with, and seen it posted on another forum...
If you have a leak on PVC in a tight spot where you'd have to replace a bunch of fittings, or the space is tight/hard to reach, close all openings with test balls, put a high powered shop vac in one opening and seal the hose around the pipe to ensure vacuum inside the system.
Start 'er up and apply primer, then cement to the leak.
Some will say thats the wrong way to do it, and it is...but when you expect an inspector there any minute and a leak shows it's ugly head at the last minute...this could save you a half day for reinspection.
Again, I have yet to try it, but have been told firsthand it works.


I have to try this.

[DuckButter]

I have to try this.

Thats what I say, but I really, really don't want to find myself in the position where I'd need to.

[gear junkie]

Thats what I say, but I really, really don't want to find myself in the position where I'd need to.
I've been correcting the mistakes of other plumbers at my work so a tip like yours will come in handy.

[UA22PLumberdude]

I've heard of the "hot screwdriver fix" for leaks on plastic,have yet to try it tho ...

[TOPDAWG]

This is one I have yet to try, but have been told by a friend I once worked with, and seen it posted on another forum...
If you have a leak on PVC in a tight spot where you'd have to replace a bunch of fittings, or the space is tight/hard to reach, close all openings with test balls, put a high powered shop vac in one opening and seal the hose around the pipe to ensure vacuum inside the system.
Start 'er up and apply primer, then cement to the leak.
Some will say thats the wrong way to do it, and it is...but when you expect an inspector there any minute and a leak shows it's ugly head at the last minute...this could save you a half day for reinspection.
Again, I have yet to try it, but have been told firsthand it works.

Also...threading steel gas pipe, if you have no cutting oil...motor oil will work as a temporary fix. Don't make it a habit, cutting oil has additives that oil doesn't to preserve the dies.
DUCK, The vacuum idea works great fixed a few pinholes using this method without fear of future leaks, Works better if you have a helping hand to take off the vacuum once you see the cement enter the hole.

[plumberscrack]

Dip my solder in the flux when soldering fittings over 1-1/2"

I don't know why I do this but it seems to bring me good luck :scratchhead:

Plumbers putty and a few drops of cutting oil make a great pipe dope in a pinch.

I place the new wax ring on the FLANGE not on the bottom of the toilet.

I know, I know this isn't how the instructions show it being done :nono:

Sometimes, I pretend to be really grossed out when I pull my snake back with something nasty on it. That little act will usually get me a tip from the customer.

I use my tape measure to do my subtraction. I call it 'Stanley Math'

[TOPDAWG]

Another thing we run into is the closet organizer guys come into the house and just start drilling holes and they always seem to blast a few holes in the 3" pipes. We will take repair couplings and cut them in 1/4's then glue the patch coupling piece to the pipe witch saves you from trying to cut the pipe that is sandwiched in a 3 1/2'' wall to get the coupling in that wont fit anyways because it's 4" in dia.

[Aaron91]

I've heard on steel pipe, that if you have a small leak on a fitting, that you can apply salt and leave it over night, and it will rust shut, stopping the leak.

[aero1]

tub bells double em up triple em up work better than a basin wrench on old white metal faucet nuts installing wide spreads and ton of other uses, work smarter not harder:)

[libbyloulou]

I've heard on steel pipe, that if you have a small leak on a fitting, that you can apply salt and leave it over night, and it will rust shut, stopping the leak.

Anyone confirm this please ?

[rombo]

i have also heard the salt on steel trick but never used it.


Take a rag soak it put a bunch a salt on it and tie around the pipe

[westcoastplumber]

I've heard on steel pipe, that if you have a small leak on a fitting, that you can apply salt and leave it over night, and it will rust shut, stopping the leak.


I heard that the leak will stop itself without doing anything at all, it's galv and it will rust up itself.

compression fittings stop leaking eventually too, but who wants to leave the house with a slight leak:confused:

[SlimTim]

I had a leak about 1" above the slab on a piece of 3/4 copper that the sheet rock guys had put a nail in and it finally rusted off. There was a tee about an inch above the hole. No space at all.
I took a 3/4" slip coupling, cut about a third of it out lengthwise and bevelled the edges so it would snap around the pipe when pushed. I cleaned and tinned the coupling and the pipe. Pushed it on and soldered it. Voila!

[NHMaster3015]

I had a leak about 1" above the slab on a piece of 3/4 copper that the sheet rock guys had put a nail in and it finally rusted off. There was a tee about an inch above the hole. No space at all.
I took a 3/4" slip coupling, cut about a third of it out lengthwise and bevelled the edges so it would snap around the pipe when pushed. I cleaned and tinned the coupling and the pipe. Pushed it on and soldered it. Voila!

done the same trick with pvc slip couplings.

[where am i]

Anyone confirm this please ?

yes it works but only done it on new construction.


sprinks do it all the time.

[SlimTim]

Yeah, that's where I got the idea. I do alot of irrigation repairs and I use those snap tees occasionally (also a good way to add a faucet at the outside r.p.device). I figured, hey if works with pvc why not copper?

[shalx]

don't solder, braze those copper patches.

[shalx]

Pinholes in black fittings can be plugged with the "lead" of a pencil, sharpen to very narrow taper and place point in pin hole smack with palm, broken point fills hole and test away. Don't forget the amazing leadwool either.

[flat350]

Need a cable saw to cut plastic pipe , but you can't find it . A piece of nylon string will cut it the same way .

[HVAC HAWK]

This is one I have yet to try, but have been told by a friend I once worked with, and seen it posted on another forum...
If you have a leak on PVC in a tight spot where you'd have to replace a bunch of fittings, or the space is tight/hard to reach, close all openings with test balls, put a high powered shop vac in one opening and seal the hose around the pipe to ensure vacuum inside the system.
Start 'er up and apply primer, then cement to the leak.
Some will say thats the wrong way to do it, and it is...but when you expect an inspector there any minute and a leak shows it's ugly head at the last minute...this could save you a half day for reinspection.
Again, I have yet to try it, but have been told firsthand it works.

Also...threading steel gas pipe, if you have no cutting oil...motor oil will work as a temporary fix. Don't make it a habit, cutting oil has additives that oil doesn't to preserve the dies.

i did this on a new 6" sec 80 pvc tee that had a small drip .i took my knife and cleaned out a small area then put primer in a syringe that i had for applying things for crafts and stuck it in then put the glue in . there was no pressure in the pipe . put pressure in the pipe the next day and 80* water in it the next day and it still does not leak 5 yrs later ;)

[HVAC HAWK]

I heard that the leak will stop itself without doing anything at all, it's galv and it will rust up itself.


the leak will stop on its own but the salt will speed it up .i make a past with the salt ,put it in the threads then put some lead wool in with a screwdriver and some times peen over a thread to hold it . and it does work i have done it a lot of times :bravo:

[drtyhands]

I've heard on steel pipe, that if you have a small leak on a fitting, that you can apply salt and leave it over night, and it will rust shut, stopping the leak.

Have I got a couple of stories for you.:eek:

[Aaron91]

Well, let's hear em boss. :D

[drtyhands]

Pinholes in black fittings can be plugged with the "lead" of a pencil, sharpen to very narrow taper and place point in pin hole smack with palm, broken point fills hole and test away. Don't forget the amazing leadwool either.

When you run across a roofer or any hot mopper grab a chunk of tar.Heat cast iron to melt tar over casting defects.

[aero1]

i took a piece of sch40 6" pvc put a cap on one end and a cleanout on the other cut the pipe a couple inches longer then my closet auger, and made a great spillproof holder for it, no more buckets or garbage bags to wrap it in to carry it out. less mess is good!!!

[Aaron91]

One trick I learned recently is when soldering copper stub outs for sinks, put a locking tape measure on the floor, with the tape extending up, then let the 1/2" copper rest on the tape measure 'lip'. It works pretty well.

[SlimTim]

I bought a couple of those common weeder tools at the garden center. You know, the one with the two small triangle shaped prongs at the end and a wooden handle. I heated the shaft with my torch and bent one at a 90 and the other I twisted the broad part of the head a little bit and bent the shaft at a 45. They are great for digging under any pipes in the yard to clear an area for repairs.

[Jay Mpls]

I've done both the vacuum trick and the salt on the pipe tricks.The only thing I have to add is you northern guys can use this,
On a frozen kicthen sink line use some 3/8" hose to send into the line (Usually they are froze just below the tee)
And trickle warm water.Gets you going pretty fast! Then cable the rest of the line to clear the rice and pumpkin they tossed in their disposal.
The other trick I use is a strong magnet on a string to fetch tools dropped in block or to locate studs in walls. I started keeping one handy when core drilling when cutting through cable those bits of metal will come loose and screw up your bit.

[All Clear Sewer]

the leak will stop on its own but the salt will speed it up .i make a past with the salt ,put it in the threads then put some lead wool in with a screwdriver and some times peen over a thread to hold it . and it does work i have done it a lot of times :bravo:

Why not just fix it the right way? :shrug:

[Birddoggiest]

I've heard on steel pipe, that if you have a small leak on a fitting, that you can apply salt and leave it over night, and it will rust shut, stopping the leak.
On a fire sprinkler system or hydronic system with black pipe if you soak a rag and coat it with salt and tie the rag around the leaky thread it might rust up in about a week + or - 50% of the time. It might be easyer to just take it apart and fix it if you need it done ASAP.

[mtnman1100]

. I started keeping one handy when core drilling when cutting through cable those bits of metal will come loose and screw up your bit.

Are you cutting thru PT cables? Jay

[NHMaster3015]

J.B. Weld Baby !!!!!!!!!:eek:

[HVAC HAWK]

Why not just fix it the right way? :shrug:

i would take it apart and fix if i didn't have to take apart to much but some times you have to take a lot apart to get to the leaking fitting

[All Clear Sewer]

Sawzall and re`thread the ends http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/images/smilies2/shrug.gif

[shalx]

lead wool and other "tricks" can be butcher jobs or the hallmark of a true professional. Sawzall an rethread if you can spin a new fitting in but on commercial jobs my crew an I have spent weeks installing gas pipe to the point of being able to test sometimes finding one solitary leak in a wall or maybe in a ceiling where the inspector will not allow a union. Also knowing that removing all the joints and reinstalling them is likely to create a new leak you make a professional decision based on cost effectiveness, experience and time constraints(the bumpy bouncy mess of construction schedules) to patch using time proven methods. Test to higher standards of time and pressure if your experience is uncertain. Don't fling poo at another professionals fix that works, gets the job done, and passes inspection.

[drtyhands]

Welcome to the forum shalx.

We need more construction guys around here.

How's business?

[drtyhands]

Are you cutting thru PT cables? Jay

I know,He scared me too.

[shalx]

I worked residential construction first then commercial and service in the middle as well as most of my bosses trusted me to do what little service they had. For the last three years I have been self employed full time and currently have enough projects to keep me busy. I am flexible in what I do though. Sorry to derail.

[JRM638fitter]

This one I would not use on water line we have used it with great success on fire sprinkler lines. If you have a system with open ends that you cannot find poor in some Pine Solve cleaner then start filling the system with are to mix it up. Then just walk around a smell to find your open ends.

[Jay Mpls]

PT?! HELL NO!!!! These are precast slabs!
YIIIIKES! Look out beeeelowwwwww!

[Ace Sewer]

For the toilet flange trick that started the thread, someone, I think Oaty, makes nifty repair flanges that slip down inside 4" with a rubber gasket on a taper...twist the flange and it pulls the gasket up and expands it. They are a little spendy but very nice when you have an iron line and the flange is gone or rusted to the point there is no way to bolt the toilet down.

here is a picture http://www.hectorshardware.biz/shop/product.asp?dept_id=161104&sku=486000&

[SlimTim]

Sorry, but if I used that I would have to put it under the thread, "things I've done that I shouldn't have charged for."
Maybe it works, I don't know, but it just scares me. I would have to break out the old flange and go back with c.i.

[NHMaster3015]

lead wool and other "tricks" can be butcher jobs or the hallmark of a true professional. Sawzall an rethread if you can spin a new fitting in but on commercial jobs my crew an I have spent weeks installing gas pipe to the point of being able to test sometimes finding one solitary leak in a wall or maybe in a ceiling where the inspector will not allow a union. Also knowing that removing all the joints and reinstalling them is likely to create a new leak you make a professional decision based on cost effectiveness, experience and time constraints(the bumpy bouncy mess of construction schedules) to patch using time proven methods. Test to higher standards of time and pressure if your experience is uncertain. Don't fling poo at another professionals fix that works, gets the job done, and passes inspection.
Please tell me you're not doing the "lead wool, salt on a rag" fix on gas piping.

[DuckButter]

Please tell me you're not doing the "lead wool, salt on a rag" fix on gas piping.

I agree.
On unusually long runs where there's no place to legally install unions, it's a real good idea to pressure test it incrementally as you go...good way to avoid painting yourself into a bad corner.

[Aaron91]

Can someone please explain the lead wool trick?

[gear junkie]

the leak will stop on its own but the salt will speed it up .i make a past with the salt ,put it in the threads then put some lead wool in with a screwdriver and some times peen over a thread to hold it . and it does work i have done it a lot of times :bravo:

Can someone please explain the lead wool trick?
Now do you see why I tell you to write stuff down?

[Aaron91]

Thanks Ben for all your hard work retrieving that quote. :D

[J.S.]

If a PVC stack is coming out of the floor crooked i use a heat gun to gently warm around the base of the stack, level it and hold for 30 seconds.

[Birddoggiest]

If a PVC stack is coming out of the floor crooked i use a heat gun to gently warm around the base of the stack, level it and hold for 30 seconds.
Ill try that one.
The salt rag wouldn't work on gas lines because it doesn't have water to rust. As far as lead wood on gas, thats a no no!

[HVAC HAWK]

Ill try that one.
The salt rag wouldn't work on gas lines because it doesn't have water to rust. As far as lead wood on gas, thats a no no!

i only use the salt or lead wool trick as a last desperate attempt and i never do it on gas lines . i test my gas line every 3 or 4 turns with short pipe in between and test after a long run of pipe after i put the 90 on . it saves a lot of time taking all the pipe apart to fix a leak all the way back at the start .

[Birddoggiest]

i only use the salt or lead wool trick as a last desperate attempt and i never do it on gas lines . i test my gas line every 3 or 4 turns with short pipe in between and test after a long run of pipe after i put the 90 on . it saves a lot of time taking all the pipe apart to fix a leak all the way back at the start .
I would fire a guy if he had to test his gas after 3 or 4 joints even if we were doing 4". Done properly there is very rarely a leak.

[Aaron91]

It sounded like Charlie meant 3 or 4 turns in direction, not every 3 or 4 connections.

[HVAC HAWK]

I would fire a guy if he had to test his gas after 3 or 4 joints even if we were doing 4". Done properly there is very rarely a leak.

so your saying you never have a leak in black pipe :confused::bow-down:

i would rather check it as i go then have to take it apart and re do it again ,and with todays cheep fittings i think i would test as i go . in a job with 100 fittings i'm good for 1 fitting with a hole in it ,and it does not mater what brand it is they are all crap :angry:

[DuckButter]

I would fire a guy if he had to test his gas after 3 or 4 joints even if we were doing 4". Done properly there is very rarely a leak.

What would you do to the guy that installs several hundred feet of concealed gas lines in a celing where unions are illegal and there's a sand hole in a tee right in the middle?

[Crappy days]

I hook up my cot bottle to water heaters when draining. Cuts the times to about a third. Works great at pushing out sediment on older units.

[Pete M]

Need some extra hands?

I built this soldering box about 20 years ago. I found it quite useful and it saved me loads of job time.

If you like to pre-fab soldered joints whenever possible, this soldering box may have the “extra hands” you're looking for.

Pic 1: The semi-circular slots cradle the pipe. Permanently mount a clamp to hold the pipe firmly while soldering --- or to just carry a length in tow as you carry the box from your truck,

Pic 2: Pipe in place and clamped

Pic 3: Pre-fabbed and ready for soldering

[Tyman]

I hook up my cot bottle to water heaters when draining. Cuts the times to about a third. Works great at pushing out sediment on older units.

What is a Cot bottle? :confused:


Whenever a new guy is hired I always watch them. I always learn a new trick that they think everybody knows.

I use tin snips to cut shingles for roof penetrations. It works great.

[gear junkie]

What is a Cot bottle? :confused:


Whenever a new guy is hired I always watch them. I always learn a new trick that they think everybody knows.

I use tin snips to cut shingles for roof penetrations. It works great.
I use a regular hole saw but use a longer drill bit to make it work.

[drtyhands]

What is a Cot bottle? :confused:


Whenever a new guy is hired I always watch them. I always learn a new trick that they think everybody knows.

I use tin snips to cut shingles for roof penetrations. It works great.
CO2

[Masterplumb]

[quote=Pete M;135619]Need some extra hands?

I built this soldering box about 20 years ago. I found it quite useful and it saved me loads of job time.

If you like to pre-fab soldered joints whenever possible, this soldering box may have the “extra hands” you're looking for.

Pic 1: The semi-circular slots cradle the pipe. Permanently mount a clamp to hold the pipe firmly while soldering --- or to just carry a length in tow as you carry the box from your truck,

Pic 2: Pipe in place and clamped

Pic 3: Pre-fabbed and ready for so


I like your solder box. I'll use my #20 cutter as a holder for pipe when soldering out of place. I clamp the pipe in the cutter, open the reamer and place it on the floor.

[rmurf69]

While changing the elements on electric H2O heaters I create a vacumn so there is no need to drain the entire tank.

1.Turn power off at breaker and test with circuit detector.

2.Shut water off at tank and drain enough water to release existing pressure.

3.Remove VB and install temporary plug wrapped with teflon.

4.Remove elements, while absorbing the chugs of water with a towel.

5.Install new elements.

By plugging the VB this creates a vacumn,allowing you to change out the elements on the fly. Although water will still burp out you must move quickly to prevent a mess

[wrongler]

When we are in a bind for time changing heating elements in electric water heaters, we will let the pressure off and pull swap the element with the tank still full. The water will sorta gurgle once or twice but wont gush out.
oh... someone already posted this one...

[Birddoggiest]

so your saying you never have a leak in black pipe :confused::bow-down:

i would rather check it as i go then have to take it apart and re do it again ,and with todays cheep fittings i think i would test as i go . in a job with 100 fittings i'm good for 1 fitting with a hole in it ,and it does not mater what brand it is they are all crap :angry:

I haven't had any more sand holes lately then when I started. I could probably count the number I have actually had on one maybe two hands in 12 years and MILES of pipe. If I were doing a several joints in 2 1/2" or better where it would be tough to fix I would test as I go, In a house or smaller pipe 2" on down, no. It is a waste of time 99% of the time. If you get that many leaks, fix your threader.

[drtyhands]

What would you do to the guy that installs several hundred feet of concealed gas lines in a celing where unions are illegal and there's a sand hole in a tee right in the middle?

Hand him a piece of bubble gum and tell him to start chewing(preferably grape,matches the fitting color).

If that just so happens to not pass test,left right nipple/coupling.

[Dem]

In the fire ceiling u can screw allthread wood anchors right thru the drywall
into the joist. They are usually 2' apart. If not, then just scan them or
magnet the screws to find their distance. Also if there is a high ceiling and
u are on the shorter ladder to reach it, simple screw anchor on ready lenght
allthread (and use drill on the bottom end of the allthread. Also use 1/2
copper to support and aim long allthreads.

Also magnet works great to find screws in the drywall in order to cut square
drywall piece or section, mark those screws and use drill to remove them. If
its a nails, then punch them back into the studd with the punch pin, cut the
square and remove. Do the work inside the wall, put that drywall back on
place, touch up with the mudd and let the happy cheap customer do the rest. Sold lots of repipes this way when was called to do the slab leaks.

Sometimes its a pain in the butt to clear rust scaled double combo on the back to back tub drains. Its good once in a while to run 3/8 or 13/32 cable through the multiple vent to tubs T-Y like on this pic:

[TomSV650]

In the fire ceiling u can screw allthread wood anchors right thru the drywall
into the joist. They are usually 2' apart. If not, then just scan them or
magnet the screws to find their distance. Also if there is a high ceiling and
u are on the shorter ladder to reach it, simple screw anchor on ready lenght
allthread (and use drill on the bottom end of the allthread. Also use 1/2
copper to support and aim long allthreads.

Also magnet works great to find screws in the drywall in order to cut square
drywall piece or section, mark those screws and use drill to remove them. If
its a nails, then punch them back into the studd with the punch pin, cut the
square and remove. Do the work inside the wall, put that drywall back on
place, touch up with the mudd and let the happy cheap customer do the rest. Sold lots of repipes this way when was called to do the slab leaks.

Sometimes its a pain in the butt to clear rust scaled double combo on the back to back tub drains. Its good once in a while to run 3/8 or 13/32 cable through the multiple vent to tubs T-Y like on this pic:

It can be almost be impossible to get your snake to drop into the bathtub/sink vent(from the roof). Better off using a double drop head, or in extreme cases cut into the wall.

[TomSV650]

What about the old, put the stopper on opposite side of the disposal and turn on the disposal with you hand on the stopper.It's amazing how well this works, usually on upstairs apts.

[Ace Sewer]

OK, but do you really get the line clean that way? Might be good to get it to drain then jet it without backing up.

[Jay Mpls]

What about the old, put the stopper on opposite side of the disposal and turn on the disposal with you hand on the stopper.It's amazing how well this works, usually on upstairs apts.

One of my favorites.Usually after I snake the 20 year old crud from the line and it still does not drain I do this to blow the sludge loose.

[Dem]

True. Some managers in fast food restaurants not even trying to plunge, nor augering toilets. Im getting lazy sometimes either.. Round toilet brush on the spot will get ur job done sometimes :D All it takes to make sure there is no cellphone inside the trap is to flush a hard ball of toilet paper and watch overflow tube to not rise water up. If brush wont work.. will get bussy with auger and seesnake mini..

[SlimTim]

One of my favorites.Usually after I snake the 20 year old crud from the line and it still does not drain I do this to blow the sludge loose.

Won't the water just go up the vent if the line is still stopped up?:confused:

[gear junkie]

I'll post this oldie but goodie as I'm bored right now. With you have to find the center of a board but it's an odd size, hold the tape on one side and bring the other side up or down until you have an even number on the other side. Your tape measure should be diagonal at this point. If the tape fell on 12", make a mark at 6" and that's your center line.

[toolaholic]

I've done a lot of Earth Quake Retros in crawlers , plumbing and gas fitting also. I use 2
plastic snow toboggans with ropes. Pull all my supplies and tools in one, Other , keeps My back dry ,and off the dirt.
Cutting through dry wall with a sawsall for repairs ,Don't want to cut elec or copper.
Install a metal cutting blade [ they're thinner ] Get blade all the way out on the out stroke.
Now cut at the same factory angle with tin snips ,Leaving only 1" long. You need the sharp angle so You don't stub on the rock. Cut the rock without fear! Been doing this over 30 years

I'll be back, I've got a bag full of these

[boillerman]

Slim Tim, that's a nice piece of work. More than I'ld do though. It looked to me like the flange was ok, just needed an extension kit? If I do have to
replace a flange, I'ld glue in whatever it is (they do make 4" flanges to glue into 4" pipe) and then screw or anchor it to the floor by the holes AND closet bolts. Why charge for a return trip when you don't need to?

Course I always thought my brother used too many screws in his carpentry work too. He'ld use 100 screws where 10 nails would suffice.

[SlimTim]

Slim Tim, that's a nice piece of work. More than I'ld do though. It looked to me like the flange was ok, just needed an extension kit? If I do have to
replace a flange, I'ld glue in whatever it is (they do make 4" flanges to glue into 4" pipe) and then screw or anchor it to the floor by the holes AND closet bolts. Why charge for a return trip when you don't need to?

Course I always thought my brother used too many screws in his carpentry work too. He'ld use 100 screws where 10 nails would suffice.

I suppose you're right but I've only seen the stackable extensions and one other type that learned about on this forum but I just don't trust them,(i.e. I've had to remove them after someone else installed them, maybe they just didn't do it correctly). And since I had to raise the collar I couldn't use just a new pvc flange since I don't think they make them longer than 2", thus the 3" pipe was used. I could confidently say when I left that is was 'rock' solid and not going to leak.
As for the second charge, I don't have a trip charge or service charge or minimum charge. So they paid for the time I was there. My projected travel and gas expenses are already figured into my prorated hourly rate.
Yes, it took longer. I think it was worth it.

I'm glad you resurrected this old thread. I like looking through the tips. I always miss something the first time (usually because it's midnight before I've read all the way through them)

[JCsPlumbing]

SlimTims repair brings up interesting questions to me. As he has the experience to know it's a good repair, it will not pass code where I am. I cannot glue ANY fitting inside of a pipe. So if I could not get it done with an inside pipe cutter and a coupling/flange-I would be forced to cut open the ceiling and replumb. Even though this may work forever, I would fail inspection. If I don't get an inspection, I could be fined & reprimanded by the state. If it causes damage & I didn't have the inspection, I can get sued.

It's a frustrating big picture. :smash:

J.C.

[atlassdrain]

i like what you did tim but what id have done is probably broken the flange a lil more take an inside cutter or sawzall and cut the remainder of the flange as well as i could flush to the floor. 1 assume it was a a 4x3 flange pvc there originally.....then id get a 4 inch pvc flange and glew it to the existing remainding part of the 4x3 {it will fit over the body of a 4x3} screw it to the floow and set if with a deep seal wax ring and plaster of paris or if u have the original grout for the floor even better if its ceramic......as far as changing a ballcock i use a grout sponge cut in half and get it the water i mean from the tank that way and have a lil bucket under the supply as well.......no worries

[frodo]

i use a water heater pan adapter, with a brass male hose connector on the other end. installed in the bottom of a bucket. hooked to a hose, if i am up high,bleeding a hvac coil or just fixen a leak, can youse the handle to hook on the pipe

[frodo]

i use a big fender washer,cut with my bandsaw, teeth on the washer
6 in piece of 3/8 all thread. makes a handy inside cutter for pvc.
place another washer up higher to use as a guide, for a straight cut

[frodo]

have used 1/2 copper to make a ''ladder'' design this will change the direction of string, when cutting pvc, under ground

[toolaholic]

Move dryer out,pull hose from wall. Take your leaf blower , run it in hole with a towel wrapped around it for a good seal. Does a good job

[stokefire7]

when ever i think about asking for a raise, the boss buys lunch. that's a cool trick.

[drtyhands]

when ever i think about asking for a raise, the boss buys lunch. that's a cool trick.
Almost like he's got a sixth sense to know when you're going to hit him up.
TIP?
I was reminded of this while posting on another forum.
When chamfering pipe for large rubber seal socket pvc drag the side of the blade of your Quicksaw(other regions may refer to as Demo) or skill saw to desired shape.

[SlimTim]

SlimTims repair brings up interesting questions to me. As he has the experience to know it's a good repair, it will not pass code where I am. I cannot glue ANY fitting inside of a pipe. So if I could not get it done with an inside pipe cutter and a coupling/flange-I would be forced to cut open the ceiling and replumb. Even though this may work forever, I would fail inspection. If I don't get an inspection, I could be fined & reprimanded by the state. If it causes damage & I didn't have the inspection, I can get sued.

It's a frustrating big picture. :smash:

J.C.

What inspection? I was called out because of an odor and found the floor had been raised above the collar. By the way, it was the ground floor and a slab. In the case of the photos i posted, the floor wasn't raised much so I guess I could have chiselled the concrete from around the pipe and a new 4" collar glued on if it was long enough but It still would have been necessary to get some type of concrete base underneath it. I have seen the floors raised much more than this one.

Now come clean J.C.. This was a repair. Would you have pulled a permit and called for an inspection even if you were able to glue your flange over the pipe?

[SlimTim]

i like what you did tim but what id have done is probably broken the flange a lil more take an inside cutter or sawzall and cut the remainder of the flange as well as i could flush to the floor. 1 assume it was a a 4x3 flange pvc there originally.....then id get a 4 inch pvc flange and glew it to the existing remainding part of the 4x3 {it will fit over the body of a 4x3} screw it to the floow and set if with a deep seal wax ring and plaster of paris or if u have the original grout for the floor even better if its ceramic......as far as changing a ballcock i use a grout sponge cut in half and get it the water i mean from the tank that way and have a lil bucket under the supply as well.......no worries

I'm not sure I follow you. The problem was that the existing flange was already flush with the floor, not sitting on top of the floor as it should be.
You are correct, it was a 4 x 3 collar that was glued inside the 4" pvc pipe. So I essentially made an extended 4 x 3 collar by glueing a 3" collar in a 3" coupling and glueing the coupling inside of the 4" pipe. It's a perfect fit (provided your new collar doesn't have the "throat" under the flange.)

[frodo]

i have done the same thing,and called no inspection. the ''code'' calls for an inspection every time a trap seal is broken. how in the hell would you ever get anything done? and there ain't enought inspectors!
i have a 2 in a 3in an 4in inside cutter, for pvc drill bit have you used them?
stick it in the fitten, and pull the trigger, takes the pipe out lickity split
its neater than cat poopy
in

[frodo]

Almost like he's got a sixth sense to know when you're going to hit him up.
TIP?
I was reminded of this while posting on another forum.
When chamfering pipe for large rubber seal socket pvc drag the side of the blade of your Quicksaw(other regions may refer to as Demo) or skill saw to desired shape.

the boss knows when you do something right 3 times in a row :)

just remember that you can get 75 attaboys, but 1 awshot, wipes em all out

[frodo]

when fitten for an old gruchy welder, wrap his lead around the end of the pipe about 6 or 8 times, his little puddle will piddle. an he won't be grouchy anymore
ha ha ha or drop the 90, when the hood goes down, ow foot.

[frodo]

back in the ''older'' days we used a mercury gauge, on gas inspections, so we had a bicycle pump on the truck. cut the end off the hose. and stick it in the boiler drain
on the washer box. to get the water out of the lines to fix a leak

[frodo]

when the thiefs,brake of all the copper, and steal it. use a cresant wrench to resize, and round the end of the tubbing. or your flare block

[boillerman]

when fitten for an old gruchy welder, wrap his lead around the end of the pipe about 6 or 8 times, his little puddle will piddle. an he won't be grouchy anymore
ha ha ha or drop the 90, when the hood goes down, ow foot.
:rotflmao1: