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davewest
04-09-2008, 11:37 PM
Hi

Im remodeling a bathroom and need to replace the existing toilet supply line. Right now I have a 1/2" galvanized pipe protruding through the floor to which I attached a 3/8" stainless (i believe) braided supply line to the toilet. I would like to dress it up a bit, but Im unsure how to join galvanized to ... ???whatever supply line I can find that is not that ratty old galvanized stuff. I plan to remove the existing galvanized pipe in the basement and replace it with, something?

Ive seen toilet supply kits from plumbingsupply .com, but Im not sure how Id make the union from galvanized to brass, or whatever. Can you point me to a specific kit, or product that would work? Ive read about dielectric unions, but just a little information can be a bad thing.

Id also like to run the supply through the wall, instead of up from the floor, but I dont want to spend a fortune doing it so cheaper is better. I have the bath gutted so access isnt a problem either way. I also have full access to the pluming from the basement, and its galvanized as far as the eye can see.

Thanks for any help. :)

Nick7115
04-10-2008, 03:51 AM
Hello there...
I understand the problem of too much information coming your way. I've checked out plumbing.com (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/) but I think a replacement would cost you much more. Do you have a budget you are working with? I was looking at the other options & bumped into a range of products here (http://www.houseneeds.com/Shop/HeatingProducts/HydronicHeating/copperfittingsindex.asp)that might be of interest. Does anybody have a little more insight to this problem...:confused:

Billy_Bob
04-10-2008, 12:01 PM
If I was just moving a pipe over a bit or through the wall instead of through the floor, I would stick with galvanized. Note that hardware stores can cut galvanized pipes to a specific length.

Is there a problem with the existing galvanized pipe other than how it looks? Like is it full of crud on the inside and you get slow water flow?

Or do you want to replace the pipes in the basement so it looks nicer?

Note it can take quite a bit of muscle power to get an old galvanized pipe unscrewed. Need a large pipe wrench or two. In some areas the "crud" inside the pipes tends to "weld" the joints together. This can require a pipe handle extension to the pipe wrench for more leverage and hammering on the pipe to break it loose. So might want to get a pro for this.

Also is your water from a well or city water? (Do you know if your water is acidic or not?)

davewest
04-10-2008, 12:37 PM
If I was just moving a pipe over a bit or through the wall instead of through the floor, I would stick with galvanized. Note that hardware stores can cut galvanized pipes to a specific length.

Is there a problem with the existing galvanized pipe other than how it looks? Like is it full of crud on the inside and you get slow water flow?

Or do you want to replace the pipes in the basement so it looks nicer?

Note it can take quite a bit of muscle power to get an old galvanized pipe unscrewed. Need a large pipe wrench or two. In some areas the "crud" inside the pipes tends to "weld" the joints together. This can require a pipe handle extension to the pipe wrench for more leverage and hammering on the pipe to break it loose. So might want to get a pro for this.

Also is your water from a well or city water? (Do you know if your water is acidic or not?)


No problem with the existing pipe really. It is full of crud, but since its a toilet supply, im not really concerned. Still plenty of water pressure to fill the toilet quickly. I just want to hide it, or replace it.

I can live with the galvanized if I run it through the wall rather than the floor. I have to rip up the subfloor anyway so moving it isnt an issue. And Im sure I can piece together the replacement pipes to accomplish that. I absolutely understand you about removing galvanized pipe. It took me half an hour to get the tub supply lines out and capped, they were STUCK! But I have the time and the tenacity so Im sure I can break the toilet supply loose.

I guess what im looking for is the information on joining the galvanized to brass. Ive heard you can have problems with connecting the two dissimilar metals. Im hoping there is a packaged solution out there since I dont really trust the wisdom of the home depot crowd.

We are on well water. I had it checked about 3 years ago and it was clean, but Im not sure that test checked for acidity. I cant recall.

thanks

ToUtahNow
04-10-2008, 01:27 PM
If you want it too look nice I would leave it in the floor but shorten the riser so it is just barely coming through the floor. Then use a 1/2" IPS escutcheon with a 1/2" X 7/16" straight stop and some 7/16" chrome plated spaghetti. If you move the riser in the basement to exactly below the ballcock you will end up with a real custom look without a lot of effort.

Mark

PS: Don't forget about the friction rings and ridge tool for the tubing.

davewest
04-10-2008, 11:25 PM
If you want it too look nice I would leave it in the floor but shorten the riser so it is just barely coming through the floor. Then use a 1/2" IPS escutcheon with a 1/2" X 7/16" straight stop and some 7/16" chrome plated spaghetti. If you move the riser in the basement to exactly below the ballcock you will end up with a real custom look without a lot of effort.

Mark

PS: Don't forget about the friction rings and ridge tool for the tubing.

Not a bad idea at all. Im going to tile the floor, so working out the finished height of the riser might be tricky. I guess I can just leave the existing pipe for now, and replace it when the tile is in.

It seems no one wants to touch on the galvanized to brass union. Should I even be worried about that?

drtyhands
04-10-2008, 11:33 PM
Some times a rotten galvanized water system's risers are in better shape than the horizontal.If you are lucky enough to have good threads to screw on to go ahead with brass.Why the union? Won't the supply nuts act as one?

city plumbing
04-11-2008, 08:21 AM
ever think about switching over to cpvc? you could change over at any threaded connection. then just run it through your floor or wall,put a 5/8 esc. then a 1/2 glue by 3/8 stop and then your flex or pex supply from there.:cool:

Billy_Bob
04-11-2008, 10:03 AM
Here is a bit on using dielectric unions or nipples...
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/systems/components/union_de/intro.htm

Masterplumb
04-11-2008, 10:26 AM
There is no problem joining brass to galvanized.

davewest
04-11-2008, 03:35 PM
There is no problem joining brass to galvanized.


For the love of God would you get rid of that picture!!!!! :eek:

Edit, thanks for the reassurance. Ill skip the dielectric hassle.

Masterplumb
04-11-2008, 03:56 PM
For the love of God would you get rid of that picture!!!!! :eek:

Edit, thanks for the reassurance. Ill skip the dielectric hassle.

What, you don't like my wedding day picture?:(

DuckButter
04-11-2008, 05:28 PM
What, you don't like my wedding day picture?:(

You let NHMaster do your dental...didn't ya?

plumberscrack
04-11-2008, 06:10 PM
What, you don't like my wedding day picture?:(

lol I though only your momma could love a face like that :D

Masterplumb
04-11-2008, 09:10 PM
lol I though only your momma could love a face like that :D

No, no, no. Here is a pic of my wife::grin-loving::grin-loving::grin-loving::grin-loving::grin-loving:

http://www.uglypeople.com/voting.php?next=dXBsb2FkZWQvMTg2MDkvYjEuanBn

NHMaster3015
04-11-2008, 09:37 PM
You let NHMaster do your dental...didn't ya?

And that's some of my best work to date. I'm studying online to do surgery next.

drtyhands
04-11-2008, 09:52 PM
And that's some of my best work to date. I'm studying online to do surgery next.

I knew it,your an engineer.