hanging drywall

[ctkeebler]

I am a diyer and looking to hang drywall in my basement redo. I dont want to purchase a drywall gun for the job, but rather purchase a drill or driver that I can use again.

My question is will the new rigid 12v have enough power/torque to perform the job or do I need something bigger

[Frankiarmz]

I am a diyer and looking to hang drywall in my basement redo. I dont want to purchase a drywall gun for the job, but rather purchase a drill or driver that I can use again.

My question is will the new rigid 12v have enough power/torque to perform the job or do I need something bigger

While you are waiting for an answer from the experts, I'd like to suggest buying a drywall gun. This tool is designed to drive the screw head below the surface of the drywall and saves you tedious job of gauging how far you will drive each screw. I'm pretty sure you could use a cordless drill but in this case the right tool is a real advantage. You might find a good one used although they are not too expensive, and you could always try and sell it when you are done with your project. If you have never taped drywall I suggest asking for some initial help. Remember to go easy on the compound, use the right knives and expect to give it three passes with drying time in between coats. Haste does make waste if you rush this kind of job.

[Calder]

I've never used a drywall gun. I just use a regular drill and have no problem. The key is to get the screw head below the level of the drywall and not tear the paper. I assume the drywall gun does this for you. With a regular drill you just have to be careful; it's not too hard. I don't hang too much drywall, mainly just repair jobs.

Maybe I'm not very good, or too much of a perfectionist, but I'll usually have 5 or 6 coats of compound. Try to keep using fresh compound, re-using what you take off will lead to 'bits' in the compound which will result in scores in the finished product or an uneven finish. I try to make each coat as smooth as possible to minimize the amount of sanding required at the end, using fresh compound helps to keep the finish smooth. The first time I ever used compound, I figured sanding would make everything OK ...... there was a ton of dust. Ever since then I have tried to get the finsh as good as possible with the compound to minimize sanding.

[BHD]

they make a special bit with kinda of a collar on it to use in a regular variable speed drill,

my guess is any REAL 3/8 variable speed drill should do you for running dry wall screws,

http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-394-screwdriver-bit-drywall.aspx

as you can see by the URL there are a number of different qualities but there affordable IMO.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(I had a old sears cordless and it would run dry wall screws 12 or 14 volt I do not remember, the charger keep burning up batteries and I replaced it with the dewalt 18 volt, there was no Ridgid (home depot) at the time and were near me),

[reConx]

Sanding is inevitable and the previous tips on applying drywall compound make a lot of sense. Less dust is the best method because dust will get everywhere. Be sure to use a mask at the minimum and choose your clean-up process carefully because drywall dust will clog and overwhelm most vaccum cleaners. Special filters are available that can handle drywall dust. I have used wet sponging on small repairs to minimize dust. If you got a lot of dry wall to hang you may consider hiring someone to professionally prepare the walls for painting after you have hung them. Dry wall seams can be challenging/frustrating.

The Ridgid 12V will do the job but I would consider the $69 Ridgid 18V Li-ion because it will have more than enough power for future DIY projects and is as light or lighter than the 12V drill NiCad.

[Calder]

I've tried a wet sponge, and the first time I did it, I thought that was the end of sanding. I now find sponging to result in an uneven finish if you are not careful. Probably only something seen by the person doing the job than obvious in the finished product. I try to get the compound as smooth as possible when I apply it and a light swipe with sandpaper produces a better finish than a wet sponge

[CWSmith]

All very good advice, from my experience. I'll go along with not needing a specialized power tool, especially if this isn't your profession. I've used a regular 3/8 variable speed drill with little problem. It takes only a little bit to get the hang of it (pun not intended). Using one of the clutch-equipped drills is even better and certainly the specialized driver bit that was recommended should go a long way toward making it perfect. (I'll have to try one of those myself, thanks.) But regarding particular drills, even the little 12 volt lithium-ion drill/driver would probably do a nice job and with two batteries in the kit, it should give you plenty of power and time in use.

While not a professional by any means, I've dry walled a few rooms over the years. Nasty job, doing the sanding. I usually wet sponge the first two fills and then smoothly apply the third and, all too often, the forth application which in lightly sanded with one of those sponge-type sanding block. To keep the dust contained, I use a plastic drop cloth hung close to the wall, and touching the floor. I find it easier to clean up that way.

CWS

[Tom W]

A number of years ago I had a drywall gun. I think it was a Black and Decker and is probably still lurking around here someplace. One day at HD I bought a used self-feed Hilty Drywall gun from the tool rental department and have never looked back. Fortunately I don't use it often but when I do I like it.

To help with application of mud in the corners there is a tool with a short handle and mop like strings on the end. Dip the mop head into the mud bucket and run it along the corner seam. With just a little practice you should be able to slurp on 30-40" of mud in the corners with one swipe. At the very least a corner painting tool, one of those "V" shaped spongy things, will work and will be a good investment.

When you mud the corners do one side at a time. Let it dry and do the other side. If you would like to know the real meaning of frustration try a corner tool. I can't use one now and never could although I have tried a number of times.

Sanding will leave the best surface. The objective of the sanding is to match the texture of the mud to the texture of the drywall so there is a seamless transition. I remember I once lightly sponged some screw holes and went over it them with a trowel. They were very smooth, too smooth it turned out. When the wall was prined every screw hole was shiny. I should have sanded.

As one of the previous posters said, "... go really easy with the mud." You will be far better off applying more coats than sanding off the dried mud.

When dust containment isn't a problem, as in a flip house or total rehab, consider using an old electric pad sander with at most 220 grit sandpaper. It makes a lot of dust but you can sand almost as fast as you can move the sander along the wall.

After your wall has been primed shine a light along the wall. Any inperfections will be glaringly obvious and you can fix whatever bumps or depressions you see.

A lot of drywall imperfections can be hidden by lighting. If the ceiling is 'rough' make sure to use a fixture that shines light down, not one which shines up and reflects light off the ceiling down to the living area.

[ctkeebler]

Sanding is inevitable and the previous tips on applying drywall compound make a lot of sense. Less dust is the best method because dust will get everywhere. Be sure to use a mask at the minimum and choose your clean-up process carefully because drywall dust will clog and overwhelm most vaccum cleaners. Special filters are available that can handle drywall dust. I have used wet sponging on small repairs to minimize dust. If you got a lot of dry wall to hang you may consider hiring someone to professionally prepare the walls for painting after you have hung them. Dry wall seams can be challenging/frustrating.

The Ridgid 12V will do the job but I would consider the $69 Ridgid 18V Li-ion because it will have more than enough power for future DIY projects and is as light or lighter than the 12V drill NiCad.

I have never seen a $69.00 Ridgid 18v li-ion drill at home depot near me in Connecticut. Looking today at homedepot.com I see $187.00 18 volt drill but nothing else

[Andrew M.]

I have a drywall gun and a senco auto feed too. You may want to use an impact driver since it is faster than a drill and you can stop easily and useful for other jobs. A drill clutch , not so good since if you are not at depth you will have to change settings back and forth often. A drill with a brake is better with the clutch off.The auto feed is great for overhead and flooring with the extension and is easily removed from the gun.
I have a hand sander/screen with a vac attm. that I use a water bucket separator and Ridgid vac with a cleanstream filter. As said go easy on the mud to avoid a lot of sanding. I prefer the powder/water type with a fixed set time over the premix, much less shrinkage and can dry as fast as you want, most pros do not use premix mud.

[JTROANOKE]

Don't get the mud too thick in inside corners or it will crack when the seasons change or if the house has the least bit of settlement. Also, don't break your sheets along side of a doorway or window. Easier to do, but better to notch out. Otherwise you end up with hairline from top corner of door to ceiling or from corner of window straight up/down.

[garager]

:rotflmao1:

I couldn't find anywhere, where he asked for mudding tips, maybe I just read right past it.

As long as you create a larger dimple with the screw head, to allow more mud in that spot. Then it doesn't matter what power tool you use. If all you see is just the screw head dimple, well the mud could just pop right out of there, later on.

Also, you've been given good mudding advice, so your being taken care of, real well....:)

[JTROANOKE]

:rotflmao1:

I couldn't find anywhere, where he asked for mudding tips, maybe I just read right past it.

As long as you create a larger dimple with the screw head, to allow more mud in that spot. Then it doesn't matter what power tool you use. If all you see is just the screw head dimple, well the mud could just pop right out of there, later on.

Also, you've been given good mudding advice, so your being taken care of, real well....:)

What fun is an internet forum if you cannot stray from topic once in awhile??:D Anyway, I would think a 12V driver should be plenty of power to hang drywall. Unless your house is studded with oak! I had a straight 3.6 power screwdriver that would bury a 1-5/8 drywall screw in a stud, and have hung drywall a long time ago (just a few sheets) with a cheap B&D 9.6 cordless drill. As long as you have 2 battery packs so you can switch out when one gets weak, you should be fine. I have put down a lot of subflooring with 2" screws with a cheapo ryobi 14.4 and never had a problem with it. I hung kitchen cabinets with 3" wood screws with the same drill. I think for the average Weekend Warrior type DIY'er anything in the 12-18V range will cover most household tasks without sweat. The 24-36V stuff is only necessary for pros.

[Frankiarmz]

:rotflmao1:

I couldn't find anywhere, where he asked for mudding tips, maybe I just read right past it.

As long as you create a larger dimple with the screw head, to allow more mud in that spot. Then it doesn't matter what power tool you use. If all you see is just the screw head dimple, well the mud could just pop right out of there, later on.

Also, you've been given good mudding advice, so your being taken care of, real well....:)

I'll take the blame for throwing in the advice on mud. I just thought if it was his first attempt at sheet rocking he might not know to go easy with the mud. I made that mistake many years ago and did not know any better until I had finished most of the job. I still cough up that joint compound.:eek:

[Spinalzo]

Really some great advice regarding tool selection and drywall mudding tips. For me it would depend on the size of the job, number of people available, and whether roofs (lids) are involved. I have the Senco drywall gun and use it on every drywall job - large or small - and for scerwing down floor sheathing, etc. Makes`for a fast job especially when you're trying to hold full 5/8" sheets overhead. Hanging drywall is no fun and the faster it's up the better. Drywall gun and collated screws for the banana clip are more expensive, but it'll make brief work of any drywall job. There's a reason that the apprentice usually gets the job of screwing off drywall - it's tedious and no fun.

[reConx]

I have never seen a $69.00 Ridgid 18v li-ion drill at home depot near me in Connecticut. Looking today at homedepot.com I see $187.00 18 volt drill but nothing else
The $69 special might be sold out in your area but I still see a couple kits. That one Li-battery drill was a special that started at $129>$99>$79>$69 to introduce the Li-ion battery to consumers. There is an Ultimate Power Deal going on at HD till 4/30/08 so you can still get a great deal on a nice drill, i.e.: $187-30
Do a search on this forum and you will find multiple threads on drill choices.

[Wood_Junkie]

I've done two house rehabs (our own houses) and have just used my 18V Ryobi drill with a dimpling bit. I first tried using one of the adjustable depth ones, but hated it. Buy a small multi-pack of the dimpling bits (I think HD sells DeWalt dimpling bits in a pack of 8 or something) because occasionally you'll cam out of the screw and strip your bit. Good to have some spares on hand so you don't slow down the work.

Also, most of the time drywall is installed vertically. I've found that unless you have particularly high ceilings, installing them horizontally is easier, at both the point of installation and when finishing (less time on a ladder). Also, install the bottom one first so you have something to rest the upper one on. Drive some 16p nails above and against the first sheet, then rest the upper sheet on those to get a proper gap. Once the upper is attached, pull the nails out.

[Tom W]

On rehabs I hang rock a little differently than Wood Junkie. I hang the top first then the bottom. The reason I do it this way is that often in a rehab the floors and ceilings are not parallel. If there is some trimming that needs to be done it is easier for me to tip out the bottom sheet and rasp it rather than lift the upper sheet down, trim it and put it back up. I have a little step-on thingie that I slide under the bottom sheet, step down on one end and it lifts the bottom sheet to whatever height I need. I generally work alone so this system works well for me.

[CWSmith]

Reading Wood_Junkie's comment, "most of the time drywall is installed vertically. I've found that unless you have particularly high ceilings, installing them horizontally is easier", brought a smile!

I really don't know which is the "pro-way" of doing it and quite imagine it depends on the situation. As a home-owner with a few projects here and there, I've only done it horizontally, laying the lower sheet, first. I do like Tom W's suggestion of doing the top sheet first on old houses. Certainly if I was going to apply new drywall in the house I am currently renovating, that would be excellent advice as nothing in that 1887-built house is square, level, or parallel.

But, on to the "smile" reason of my response to Wood Junkie's post:

A good friend of mine is heavily evolved in Habitat for Humanty and I remember him telling me about a couple of new volunteers he had on a project a few years ago. They had lot's of experience supposedly and volunteered to do the drywall one weekend on the new ranch-style house the local group was building.

My friend got a call late Saturday afternoon with the new guys telling him that they had run out of sheetrock. Not quite understanding what the problem was as he was sure he had procured enough, he jumped in his car and ran over there. What he discovered was that the two guys had installed all the sheetrock vertically.... cutting the ends off all the sheets to get them to fit properly.

Not sure what the sheet size was, or what the ceiling height was, but I do recall my buddy was a bit upset at the time.

CWS

[Frankiarmz]

Reading Wood_Junkie's comment, "most of the time drywall is installed vertically. I've found that unless you have particularly high ceilings, installing them horizontally is easier", brought a smile!

I really don't know which is the "pro-way" of doing it and quite imagine it depends on the situation. As a home-owner with a few projects here and there, I've only done it horizontally, laying the lower sheet, first. I do like Tom W's suggestion of doing the top sheet first on old houses. Certainly if I was going to apply new drywall in the house I am currently renovating, that would be excellent advice as nothing in that 1887-built house is square, level, or parallel.

But, on to the "smile" reason of my response to Wood Junkie's post:

A good friend of mine is heavily evolved in Habitat for Humanty and I remember him telling me about a couple of new volunteers he had on a project a few years ago. They had lot's of experience supposedly and volunteered to do the drywall one weekend on the new ranch-style house the local group was building.

My friend got a call late Saturday afternoon with the new guys telling him that they had run out of sheetrock. Not quite understanding what the problem was as he was sure he had procured enough, he jumped in his car and ran over there. What he discovered was that the two guys had installed all the sheetrock vertically.... cutting the ends off all the sheets to get them to fit properly.

Not sure what the sheet size was, or what the ceiling height was, but I do recall my buddy was a bit upset at the time.

CWS

Good story, you just know they had to be 8ft ceilings and 10ft lenghts of rock. I was taught that if you are going to install horizontally, do the top sheet first and make it good to the ceiling the bottom can be a bit off towards the floor because the baseboard will cover it up. Sound right? I've watched many guys tape rock but the best I ever saw was my wife's uncle. He was a master carpenter and installed some sheetrock in our first home. He did a horizontal piece up top, one on the bottom and a ten inch piece in the middle. Then he did something I never saw, he applied some mud and taped the two joints and with a 16" curved trowel gave it one pass! I swear it was as smoothe as a baby's butt. Any of you pros use the curved trowel? Well, in any event it impressed the heck out of me.:D

[BHD]

Also, install the bottom one first so you have something to rest the upper one on. I dis agree with this way of doing and below I will explain why,

first you put up the ceiling for dry wall, then you hang the wall horizontal, (two reasons and mu dding is the first, as your working the main seam at seam at 4 foot, the top sheet is pushed up tight to the ceiling helping hold the edges , you will actually get less seam tearing and cracking if you let the edge of the ceiling "float" by not screwing it the last 8 " or so to the out side wall, and let it set on the wall sheet, then the seconds sheet (lower) is staggered on a stud,
the lower sheet is then pushed up and held up into place with a "Drywall Roll Lifter" a foot device that will give one leverage to raise it using ones foot. http://images.orgill.com/200x200/0300574.jpg I have used a flat pry bar and a block as well, in a pinch

The 4 foot wall seams you can work in one stroke where the ends meet. thus making a better looking seam.

usually leaving a small gap at the floor, one it doesn't not get wet if water covers the floor), and usually gives room for flooring or finish floor to go. it will be covered up by trim.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Tools for mudding first a mud pan with good edges, either plastic or metal, two 6' knife, and 8" to 10" knife and finally a 12" knife. (yes there are those occasions that narrower a 18" knife is used but that is not a normal), some people like the trowel and hawk (a carry over from wet walling), I think unless one is experienced, one will get the knack of using a knife quicker than using a dry wall trowel, (and the cement trowel and drywall trowel are different width and curvature) they are not interchangeable.

use the 6" knife in the corners, I do not have any problems doing both sides at once but if you do, do one side and let it dry, and do the other side of the corner, (you will have to mud both sides and tape it all at once),

(if you want some speed in doing seams get a "banjo", and that will apply the mud to the tape, and you can tape it out fairly fast in comparison to hand taping, (but unless you a lot to do I suggest hand taping it,
applying the mud, (use a thick coat under the tape) then apply the tape and then squeeze the mud out holding the knife about 75 to 80 degrees to the wall making a clean swipe,

the seams normally need three passes, a using a 6" knife applying the tape, the 8" second coat and the 12" top,

out side corners I usually use the metal bead and then mud in using a 6" knife, and if necessary wider,

yes there are times you need some touch up or additional passes, nail holes I use three passes on walls and normally you can get by with two on the ceiling, but if in doubt do another pass,

I use lay prefill deep holes or break outs or damage,

before sanding I use the 12" knife to scrape off any ridges or buggers of mud, (a pole sander will make things go fast as well, you have leverage and can sand standing up and on the floor, like said before us as minimal amount of mud and eliminate the bulk of the sanding.
when sanding try not to fuzz the paper.

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make approximately a 2 foot tall stand, (for an 8 foot ceiling) ( measure your height and ceiling height, for correct height of the work stand), about 16" wide and 4 foot long more of a bench for a work stand, ( now have nice aluminium work stands) but when I first started, I had two wood units, and wore a hard hat to hang the rock up the hard hat you could rotate under the sheets easily and added the extra 1" I need to meet the ceiling, I would first nail the edges in the taper, and then use the screw gun, (at first it was all hand nailing, for me the screw gun came late in the picture), the Screws help eliminate the pop offs,
many (expecily those who do know know what there doing use a dry wall lift, and if working by your self or need some time to manipulate and get it attached the lift is a good way to go,
the stand is still a great DIY way to do the seams and taping, I used the dry wall stilts, If you do use dry wall stilts, clear the floor of all scraps and blocks or any type unless you want o crash and burn,
one other suggestion, I like to (if hand taping, not using a banjo) I like the mud pan holder and the tape roll holder. It is nice not to have to chase the mud pan or to chase the roll of tape, and to have it at your side. (they hook on to your work belt)

and in MY OPINION throw that net tape as far as you can throw it, if you want a good job, use paper tape,

a light texture will help if your having trouble getting your seams not to show or getting them flat. either hand applied or spray on,