Ridgid 3300 pressure washer throttle problem

[kenalker]

I bought a Ridgid 3300 yesterday. I used it for 4 hours yesterday and 6 today. It worked great for these first 10 hours, but then the engine went into an oscillatory state where the throttle backed off, then went full bore, then backed off, and continued doing this for about 10 seconds, backfired a couple of times, and died. (Normally, I think the throttle is at idle until you squeeze wand trigger, at which point it goes full bore). I could not get the engine to start again until allowing it to rest for about 3 minutes. After restarting, it ran fine for about 3 minutes and started doing the same thing again. The next time I tried, I released the wand trigger when the engine started doing its idle/full/idle thing but this caused the engine to quit almost immediately. This same thing happened about 4 times at which point I let it sit for 30 minutes, came back, and tried again - to no avail (same problem). Anyone else have this problem? Anyone know what might be causing this problem?

[simchamp]

Well that sucks. I just bought one not too long ago. I've probably used mine for about 6+ hours (I'm on my third or fourth tank of fuel) and it ran fine. I find it incredibly hard to pull start unless you pull the trigger on the gun to release some of the pump's pressure. Hopefully that's the sign of a solid pump with good seals????? : )

From what I've read (this in my first PW) you can't leave them running very long without using the sprayer because the pump will over heat (common among all pumps). Now I know our CAT pumps have a relief valve that is supposed to release pressure if that happens. Based on what I've experienced with my unit, I think yours either needs some sort of tuning or simply taken back, but this is way beyond my level of knowledge. Hopefully one of the pros will read this and offer some advice.

Good luck to you, and keep us posted on how it turns out.

[Woussko]

Please try it where you have the wand disconnected. Turn on water and it should squirt out the connector on the high pressure hose. Then start the engine and more water should squirt out. Let it run about 5 minutes and report if the engine speed is steady or it it rises, falls, rises and such.

[kenalker]

I tried first with the wand connected and verified the problem is still happening (no backfire this time, but engine quit within a couple of minutes). I then tried with wand disconnected and it worked much better. Over a 5 minute period it "hunted" a little bit for the first 4 minutes (but not nearly as bad as when the wand was on it) and finally settled down. With the wand disconnected, over the 5 minute period, the engine did not quit. How does this information help? Please explain - now I'm VERY curious.

One other thing I'll mention is that just before this problem started, the wand trigger began sticking. When I release the trigger, it stays in the "on" position for several seconds before finally releasing. I'm not sure this has anything to do with the bigger problem.

Also, after downloading and sifting through the Subaru engine manual, I found that it is the governor that is attached to the throttle (via a rod and spring combination) that is rotating and causing the "hunting" to occur. I presume this has something to do with the load (pump) on the engine.

[wbrooks]

Are you low on oil? If you get too low the engine will shut off.

[kenalker]

Good guess. I thought of that, but oil is topped off.

[JTROANOKE]

Sounds like the governor spring is disconnected/damaged/in wrong hole/or otherwise misadjusted. Unless it is obviously disconnected and you can figure out where to reconnect the spring, just take it back since it is new - I wouldn't spend more than a few minutes trying to fix it.

[Woussko]

As for the hunting (changes speed) try running it with the hose disconnected but with water flowing through the pump. Then when it starts speeding up, slowing down and speeding up, set the choke to 1/2 way closed. If that smooths out the engine, I can tell you right off what to do. If not, as suggested, just return it to Home Depot as defective and get another one.

I have had some throbbing issues with several Honda and Kawasaki engines. To fix them I found that running them on Plus rather than regular gasoline helps along with adding a little Gum-Out to the gasoline. Anymore they run very them very leaned out. The engines are fuel starved over much of the throttle and speed range. If they have a foam type air filter, wash it with dish washing detergent and warm water, rinse well. let dry and even if they say not, put a good bit of #40 engine oil on the dry foam, gently work it in and then squeeze out the excess. That will just add enough air flow restriction to correct the fuel-air mixture. I have not had this with a Subaru Robin engine yet, but I've heard about cases of it. All the Robin engines I have had or worked on are older ones not meeting the latest EPA requirements. People that sell and service Honda generators say they don't hold steady now and that it is a real pain. In many cases they can fix it with the air filter trick or by carefully removing the carb bowl and changing the float level. That's not for anyone other than a good engine tech to do.

I really wouldn't spend much time on it. If it's new just swap it and you may get a good one.

Question: About how much total running time is on it and what oil did you put in the engine? gasoline?

Note: If you can change the spring on the arm to another hole, move it closer to the pivot. Then you'll need to check tension.

Oh heck, just take it back and see if they won't just let you have another. Why should you have to fix something that's brand new?