Adjusting the squareness of the blade (TS2424)

[kelemvor]

Well,

I bought my TS2424 a whiel ago and promptly assembled it. THen of course my wife and I bought a house which meant the beast had to be moved.

Well, for whatever reason, now that it's assembled again in my new house, the blade isn't quite straight.

I'm just wondering if there's an easy way to adjust that without having to take the motor off and such to get in there. I don't see a way from looking at the manual, but thought maybe someone here had to do that and would know.

Thanks,
--Mike

[Dave Arbuckle]

Mike, which "square" are you referring to? There is square to the table, and parallel to the miter slot. Neither adjustment should be made with the motor off, as the weight of the motor affects the adjustments.

Dave

[Bubba Blue]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle:
Neither adjustment should be made with the motor off, as the weight of the motor affects the adjustments.
Dave<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dave,

After re-reading your post, it becomes obvious, but for those who only read this once, DO NOT TURN ON THE MOTOR to make this adjustment!!

Dave's saying to make sure the motor is attached.

Bubba.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Oh, cripes!!! Thanks, Bubba. Please revoke the word "off", and replace it with the word "removed", then it reads correctly.

Motor installed and unplugged, there's the way.

Dave
Where's my coffee?

[kelemvor]

I'm referring to Square to the miter gauge. When I push soemthing through, ti basicalyl cute with the front of the blade and then cuts a bit more at the back. WHen I looke din the manual, it looked like you are supposed to adjust that part before you attach the motor since when the motor is attached, it's hard to get up under there to adjust anything. Unless I just read it wrong.

But anyway, standing in front of the saw, the blade is angled slightly from left to right from front to back.

--Mike

[Dave Arbuckle]

Parallel to the miter slot, then. I avoid saying "square to the miter gauge" because setting the miter gauge square is a separate, later, setting.

It is a little difficult to get under there, but the only way to get excellent results is to make the adjustment with the motor installed. The motor is so heavy that removing it allows the cradle assembly to shift slightly.

If your TS2424 is a "-0" model, like mine, I recommend investing in a little dingus called P.A.L.S. This is a pair of brackets and bolt replacement studs that fit onto the rear trunnion, and allow you to adjust the parallelism with an allen wrench. Makes it very easy to get a great setting. Hardest part of a P.A.L.S. installation is figuring out the instructions, they are a bit cryptic. http://shop.woodcraft.com/woodcraft/product_family.asp?family_id=895&pf_id=125284&mscssid=J9NG0D01KE4D8PT2EBB5R99LM82C1077&Gift=false&Giftid= , the TS2424-0 uses the one marked for Sears Craftsman.

If you have a "-1" model, your rear trunnion has this adjustment built-in, and should be pretty easy to set.

Dave

[rblanford]

Dave...I have a T2412 that I got about 2 years ago, are the P.A.L.S. adaptors available for this saw? I have notices that when I cut the lumber is often away from the rip fence at the rear position when is gets past the blade whil still being in contact in the front.

[Dave Arbuckle]

I think the rear trunnion is the same, that's what would matter. Since Jake is away on his much-deserved Holiday, maybe give the support line a jingle, they should be able to answer this easily. It's 800-4RIDGID, as I recall.

Your issue can be caused either by the trunnions being out of line, or the fence being misadjusted. Be sure you aren't curing the wrong problem.

Dave