New TS3650

[bert304]

I finally upgraded from the Ryobi line of table saws. I had the 99.00 saw and the folding one for 259.00. Did not really care for either so I took them both back to Home Depot and got the Rigid TS3650. I put it together on Sunday, I took my time it took me about 5 hours. I rechecked all my measurements and alignments. I got the 2 cast iron leaves even with the main top. I can just catch the joint with a razor blade. I put the wrong wax on it so today I went to Lowe's and got the SC johnson wax and some mineral spirits to clean the old wax off. I like how sturdy it feels but I have yet to cut anything with it. I have to add a 20 amp outlet in the garage and rewax the top. My only question is what jigs should I make first? I have a good push stick, so I don't need to make one of those. I was thinking of a feather board or a cutting sled?

Thanks

[cpw]

Go ahead cut something (safely), you'll love it. You can do it fine on a 15A circuit for the most part unless you are ripping something really thick.

I would make a panel cutting sled and a feather board. The featherboard only requires a piece of scrap. The sled will benefit from an MDF handypanel.

Charles

[levon]

i agree with CPW comppletely, maybe adding some zci inserts. that is a great saw. i would invest in a good blade or two and retire the stock blade. i used the stock blade today because i had it on the saw to cut some mdf. that is a dangeruos blade to rip thick stock, even pine.

[bert304]

I have been looking at different ZCI inserts and I found one at Woodcraft store online that is made for the TS3650. I was thinking of making one out of plywood unless it is not a good idea? I have to wait until payday to buy some more items. I read the threads about the miter accessory not being that good, but it looks ok to use for a while. I will most likely get a Freud blade from Home Depot because I live 3 blocks from one. What is a good tooth count on a blade? The one that came with the saw is 40 teeth. I think I will start with a sled project

[levon]

bert

i made my zci inserts. its really easy if you have a router. the freud blades are good blades, the only thingis as they were described to me is that they are for the construction industry. i bought a freud fusion from woodcraft. you wont find them at hd. my blade is a combination blade it is a 40 tooth combination blade and it cuts wood like its hot butter.

[levon]

try this lin if you want to buy a zci http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm#zero

[VASandy]

Tooth count is dependent on what job you want the blade to do. The higher the tooth count, the less chip removal and therefor the blade will get hotter. An 80-tooth blade is more useful for crosscutting. A 40-tooth blade will do good with ripping, and most are combo blades that will do both pretty well. The Freud Fusion is one of the combos that works good.

Plywood for a ZCI is fine. I use it whenever I can. I prefer plywood over MDF for ZCI's since it seems the plywood is stiffer. MDF would probably do ok though. If you don't have a router, you can use a jig saw and carefully cut the shape. It'll be a little rough around the edges, but it'll be fine. What matters is getting the top flush with the table. When cutting the blade into the ZCI, remember that a 10" blade won't allow the ZCI to sit flush until you've cut it's channel into it. You can use an 8" blade to start the cut (like a blade from a dado set). Or you can set the ZCI on the blade and clamp a board overtop and start the cut. That's the scary way though!

Good luck with the new saw. I hope you get many many years of enjoyment from it. And welcome to the forums! :)

[levon]

VASandy

your explanation was a lot clearer than my post . thank you. at times it can be hard following what someone says and you did a great job of making things clearer

[PMR413]

Thanks levon and vasandy for the blade info I'm also a rookie with a ts- and am blade shopping also. As for the ZCI what do you think about a piece of laminate wood flooring? I went to HD; my friendly salesman gave me two 4ft pieces that I plan to cut into thirds for inserts. Thanks Pat

[cpw]

Thanks levon and vasandy for the blade info I'm also a rookie with a ts- and am blade shopping also. As for the ZCI what do you think about a piece of laminate wood flooring? I went to HD; my friendly salesman gave me two 4ft pieces that I plan to cut into thirds for inserts. Thanks Pat

Checkout this thread:
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=163796#post163796

[levon]

Pat, i made my last zci which was for a dado out of laminate flooring and liked it better than plywood. but either works good. i also had a salesman at hd give me a piece of laminate. i was shocked to find out laminate flooring is not wood. i havent been that serious about woodworking until recently. i think the main reason is it took a long time to accumulate enough tools, that you dont get exasperated trying to do things without th proper tools i really enjoy woodworking. i am not that great at it, but i enjoy what little i can do.

[PMR413]

Thanks cpw and papadan I saw that link about a month ago and forgot about it. Got it bookmark now :o

[VASandy]

Another thing about blades I learned recently. Blade height is important! I now set my blade about 1" above the board and no more. I actually set it so that the bottom of the tooth hollow is just above the board. That way there's no more blade than needs be exposed, and the wood chips can be expelled. The saw seems to cut better this way. I've had to rip some 2" black walnut and some 4" cherry boards, and setting the blade in this manner has helped me immensely. The 3650 with the Frued or the Forrest Woodworker II blade is a great combo! Hope this helps.

[Woussko]

Setting blade height correctly can also reduce total amputation of hands. One thing to watch is not setting it too low or kickback can become an issue. Try about 3/8" - 1/2" above the wood.

Take your time and do a careful setup. Then check it now and then.

[bert304]

"Setting blade height correctly can also reduce total amputation of hands." Quted from Woussko. How many of you use the blade guard? Be Honest. I do not use the blade guard but I should.

Thanks for the suggestions about the saw blades? The nearest Woodcraft is in Allentown Pa about a 45 min to 1 hour ride from me.

About the ZCI I have some Birch plywood left over and I might try to make one from that.

Today I stripped off the wrong wax, I had used Turtle Wax with Carnuaba. I spoke to Rigid and they said if I could not get the boaters wax to use any good quality wax. I cleaned the top with Mineral spirits and then with Electrical cleaner that leaves no residue. Then I put 3 coats of SC Johnson Wax. I started to make my cutting sled and ran out of time so I cleaned the saw dust off and applied another coat of wax to dry overnite and I will polish it off tomorrow.

[VASandy]

Bert, another good thing to cover the top with next time you wax is Boeshield T9. It's a great anti-rust treatment. I've found wax lasts about 3 months, so I started using the Boeshield. That lasts at least a year. I wax on top of the Boeshield to get the nifty slippy surface. SC Johnson's is the only wax I use in the shop.

I use my blade guard every single chance I can. It's easy to remove and reinstall, now that I've got it dialed in. To not use the guard is simply being lazy and you really should start using it!! I don't want to sound mean, but I hope it drives the message home that the guard is there to HELP you.

[PMR413]

vasandy I used the T9 then did a small area with Johnsons. The Johnsons doesn't seem to want to come off even when I buff it very hard. When the light hits the top just right I can see the wax lines. I bought the saw used so I stripped the top with the T9 rust and stain remover first. Are you and/or any others having the same issue? Thanks Pat

[bert304]

PMR413 I used the Johnsons wax and I have the same thing happen. If you look across the top in the light you can see wax lines. I thouht about putting the saw in the sun for a few min to get the top warm so the wax would melt. When I put the Turtle wax on it was like glass but that stuff most likely has silicone in it. I have put 4 coats of Johnsons on now. I think I am going to try the wax after it has been warmed in the sun and is softer.

[Gofor]

Beings its a tool, I am not too concerned about wax lines showing, but I do not want wax transferring to my work. I buff mine with a piece of old sweat shirt under the hook & loop pad of my ROS (random orbital sander). It buffs it to a shine quickly.

Go

[Bob D.]

Beings its a tool, I am not too concerned about wax lines showing, but I do not want wax transferring to my work. I buff mine with a piece of old sweat shirt under the hook & loop pad of my ROS (random orbital sander). It buffs it to a shine quickly.

Go

I've used the same trick Go, works great. Maybe you mentioned it here before and that's where I picked it up, I don't recall, but I've been doing it since not long after I got my TS.

[bert304]

That is a good idea I have the small Dewalt with the clips, but I will try that.

[hewood]

... I will most likely get a Freud blade from Home Depot because I live 3 blocks from one. What is a good tooth count on a blade? The one that came with the saw is 40 teeth.

You'd cover a wider range of applications if you could swing two blades. Freud has an excellent 60 tooth thin kerf blade that will give cleaner cuts, and is better in plywood and crosscuts than a 40T, but will still handle ripping tasks up to about 1-1/2" thick, which covers alot of common materials...the LU88R010 (http://www0.epinions.com/review/Freud_60T_Crosscut_Table_Saw_Blade_LU88R010/content_226312687236), Diablo D1060X, or Avanti TK406 should be available near you. Then add a 24 tooth thin kerf ripper for very thick stock....that blade willl allow you to rip to full blade height if necessary, and will spare your motor and your better blade....the LU87R010 (http://www0.epinions.com/review/Freud_10_in_x_24T_Saw_Blade_Thin_Kerf_Ripping/content_427607625348) is an excellent ripper. Those two blades in tandem should cover about 99% of whatever you might encounter, plus you'll still have the stock blade for "junk boards". The Ridgid Titanium blades are made by Freud and are very similar the Diablo and Avanti series....buy the better deal.

[Gofor]

I've used the same trick Go, works great. Maybe you mentioned it here before and that's where I picked it up, I don't recall, but I've been doing it since not long after I got my TS.

I didn't originate it and probably picked up the tip here on this forum! Works though! :):)

Go