Bench Dog cast iron router table extension **PICS ADDED**

[HotDiggity]

All--

I wanted to let everyone know that the Bench Dog ProMax cast iron router table extension I bought earlier this week for my TS 3650 is awesome! Anyone looking for a SOLID, well engineered router table that fits their table saw should look no further. Is it expensive? Indeed it is. But, IMO, it is worth it. The table is bomb proof, the fence is one of the best offered and the integral dust collection works very well.

The only "issue" i noted in installation is that the fence mounting points in the extension are slighthly smaller than those on Ridgid's extensions. One hole in front, and one in back of the ProMax extension had to be opened up slightly with a Dremel to allow the stock hardware to fit through. 4 minutes of buzzing, and it was done.

C

ProMax table and fence:
http://develop.rotorcreative.com/cbj/promax03.jpg

Fence stowed on included hooks:
http://develop.rotorcreative.com/cbj/promax02.jpg

Back view of fence:
http://develop.rotorcreative.com/cbj/promax01.jpg

[ 08-08-2005, 03:25 PM: Message edited by: HotDiggity ]

[spacebluesonoma]

I have been waiting for a review on this very thing. Thanks

[HotDiggity]

You're welcome, spacebluesonoma. I was eagerly waiting for someone else to be the guinnea pig too. I finally got tired of waiting and broke down. So far, I am well pleased! Perhaps I will take some pictures this evening and get them up for you tomorrow.

[ 08-04-2005, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: HotDiggity ]

[imported_Bob D.]

What does that beast weigh in at?
I'll bet your TS is ready to topple over by the time you get a mid-size (2HP) or bigger router mounted under the table.

[HotDiggity]

I'ts a little heavier than the stock Ridgid extension it replaced, because it's a few inches wider. The saw is by no means getting ready to topple over though. ADDING it to the right side of the saw IN ADDITION to the stock extension, however, could pose some issues if additional bracing or legs aren't put into use. In my opinion though, adding an extension, instead of replacing one of them, at least with the ProMax table, is not a winning proposition. It is dificult enough to try to get one extension on either side of the table relatively level, if you start to daisy chain them, it may become extremely difficult to level them and to keep them level. This is particularly true when the saw is constantly being moved around. Plus, I'm not big on modifications that require drilling holes where none were present before.

[spacebluesonoma]

I can't imagine weight being a factor. Someone did not build this in his garage and attempt to sell it with no testing. The router is centered so there should be no counterbalance issues it would seem to me in my limited rememberance of high school physics that it should work well.

[imported_Bob D.]

OK, I guess if you are replacing an existing wing it does not matter. I was thinking of adding it on along side the right-hand wing (when viewed from the front).

[HotDiggity]

Bob D-- I would love to add it to the right side of the saw, in addition to the stock extension wing, but I wouldn't do it without some additional bracing to help distribute the weight and keep it off of the rails. One of these days, when I'm out of projects, perhaps I'll tackle that one! That extra space would be nice; plus, since I virtually NEVER cut wood with the fence to the left of the blade, I could leave a dedicated subefence dedicated to the router attached to the TS 3650 fence.

C

[imported_Bob D.]

With the photos I now can see your setup and understand your setup.

That's why I added my router table to the right of the right-hand wing of the TS (mine is not CI like the bench dog). I can leave the fence installed and unless I am making a wider than ~24" rip to the right of the blade it does not interfere, so most times I can leave a router setup. I did run some bracing from the lower part of right-side legs to add support for the router table, and it took any stress on the rails away.

here's the bracing I put under mine;
http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking/IMG_1143.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking/IMG_1136.JPG

[imported_Bob D.]

Looking at your pics again I see you fabbed some stiffeners for the sides that mimic the design of the front/rear factory stiffeners, nice job. What are they made from, aluminum or some other metal or plywood?

[HotDiggity]

Bob-- My side panels are made of quarter-inch hardboard and help a ton. I just posted a separate post about those earlier today. So far, I'm very happy with them. I noticed that you came up with your own strut solution. Nice work.

Now you've got me wondering about moving my router table over to the other side. Your solution looks nice. There are already a couple of unused holes on the ends of the table that seem like they' d make fine anchor points. Is that aluminum? Are the brackets stock or were those fabricated by you?

Looks like we have the same router as well!

[ 08-08-2005, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: HotDiggity ]

[olilugo]

I wounder if you can share a bit more info on the specs of your new router table, fence and plate.
Are you able to do raise pannels with this table top and plate?
What model router are you using?
what is the size of the opening of the plate and fence.
What happens if you add one of the 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 size routers.
Thanks in advance,

[HotDiggity]

Hi, olilugo. Yes, you could certainly raise panels on this table if your router is powerful enough. Rigt now, I'm using a Porter Cable 690 EVS, I believe. The plate is pre-drilled for a variety of router models, but you can also purchase blank plates. All the specs on the table are available from the manufacturer, Bench Dog Tools (http://www.benchdog.com/). The hole in the stock plate is 2".

[ 08-10-2005, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: HotDiggity ]

[Golfmore]

What was shipping on that guy? I think I would put mine in the right side. I think there is room for it. Is it possible to buy it without the fence? I have a good fence that will work on that table. Really like the design of your stiffners. Also like the other guys struts. May do both. Thanks for any help.....

[ 09-11-2005, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: Golfmore ]

[Wood_Junkie]

Just ordered this puppy yesterday. Toolking via eBay, for $299. Shipping, surprisingly, was free. I can't wait to get it!

[Rocketman]

Just ordered this puppy yesterday. Toolking via eBay, for $299. Shipping, surprisingly, was free. I can't wait to get it!

I was looking at that add on ebay today. Looks like a good deal. Can you report back when you get it to let me know how the transaction went. The guy has good feedback so it shouldn't be a problem.

[hawkdev@msn.com]

Thanks for all your comments on the Bench Dog Pro Max. Great help! Now if I can figure out how to pay for it...

JD

[HotDiggity]

Hello, all. I've been keeping a pretty low profile since I started this thread. Glad to see it's still alive and has been some help. This table continues to impress me and is still going strong!

[Wood_Junkie]

Well this arrived the other day... 5 days after I placed the order. Shipping and packaging was fine and it arrived undamaged. I received an unexpected (and free) surprise with the inclusion of two Bench Dog Feather-Loc featherboards. Sweet.

It took about an hour to install the extension and get it nice and tight and leveled. The most time consuming part is setting up the miter slot and adjusting the leveling screws. I bored the side support holes to fit the Ridgid table's bolts using a HSS 5/16" bit. Took about 10 seconds, and I just used the oil from the foamy wrap around the Promax.

I'm using a Dewalt 618 router kit, with the 3 bases. So the fixed base is now permanently housed under the Promax. For any handheld work I'll be using the D-handle base. I did a couple of test cuts on the Promax for some molding I'll be making soon and it was solid, stable, level and just a joy to be using. Using the shop-vac, the dust collection is pretty darn good... nay, excellent.

Definitely expensive, but IMO, very worth the money. It fits and melds perfectly with the Ridgid TS3650, without taking up all the room of a freestanding unit.

[kbrodrick]

I'm new but I looked at my 3650 today and wondered why the pro max couldnt be mounted on the left and the wing that is taken off, drilled and mounted as an extention on the right. I could always need more space to set things to the right of the fence. It looks like it would help balance the weight of the router. I have been looking into getting a pro max and I am just about to pull the trigger.

[Wood_Junkie]

You *could* mount the extension wing removed from the left, to the right side of the table... but that's not much different than just mounting the router table on the right side.

Either way you'd definitely want to add some support legs and additional structure on that extended right side. As an alternative you could add some MDF/melamine/plywood, etc on the right side just for the additional space, without adding a significant amount of weight.

Also, compared to the weight of the extension wing, the router weight is insignificant (60 lbs vs. about 10?) And unless you leave your router moter permanently installed under the table, that weight isn't present. I remove my router motor when I'm done, every time. Don't want a stray nut or something falling into the motor shroud through the router plate hole.

I personally just removed the left wing and installed the ProMax on the left. I've rarely found the need for more table-saw top space, even cutting sheet goods.

And if it helps with your buying decision, I felt a pang of pain when I purchased the ProMax ($300 is a heft chunk of change) but haven't look back since I started using it. Well worth the money. Someone else posted a quote I've become very fond of (especially when "negotiating" tool purchases with SWMBO "Buy quality, and only cry once."

As an aside, this proved itself also true recently on a smaller scale.. I needed to install a new dryer vent, as we've moved our laundry room to the second floor. I bought a Ridgid 4" hole saw and arbor for $30 and $14 respectively. I had to visit the other hardware store for something and decided to buy a lesser brand 4" hole saw and cheaper arbor for about $28 total. Lo and behold, that cheaper hole saw crapped out on me about 1/2 through the drilling and I found the teeth were all flattened out (admitedly, I was cutting through plaster, lath boards, metal lath mesh, composite siding, and cedar). I wound up also using the Ridgid hole saw and finished the job in short order. But overall it wound up costing me more - the price of two hole saws.... Thankfully brand "X" arbor worked fine for the whole task.. So instead of costing me $44, I spent $58...

[rsanderson contracting]

After all these years , I still can't figure why someone wants to tie up there table saw ............the router table needs to be totally seperate ..........i'm mad when i'm cutting datos and need to rip something ......i have to drag out a skill saw





Just for today!

[djb]

...you'd definitely want to add some support legs and additional structure on that extended right side. As an alternative you could add some MDF/melamine/plywood, etc on the right side just for the additional space, without adding a significant amount of weight.

Attached is a pic of support legs I made for my router table extension: scrap 1x3s laying around in the garage. They're just wedged in, so it's very easy to take them on and off. And sturdy! The saw will tilt before these guys buckle... ;)


- djb

[Wood_Junkie]

Looks like MLCS is now carrying a cast iron router table extension. For all appearances, it seems to be a rebadged Bench Dog.. otherwise, they've copied it's setup and features pretty overtly. Right down to the dual purpose miter slot and the hooks under the table for the fence

The only actual difference seems to be the router plate. It is not pre-drilled, it has removable rings, and it also has a starter pin.

Strangely, it's not much cheaper than buying the Bench Dog model. About $30 cheaper than most vendors. About $10 less than what I paid via ToolKing (eBay).

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routabl4.html#cast_iron_exten_anchor

[21onen]

HiHo Neighbours to the south!
This forum has motivated me to get a cast extension for my Ridgid TS. I recently purchased the Black Jack table from Workshop supply in Embro Ontario. I believe in the U.S it is sold by Peachtree.
Due to space limitations in my shop I decided to mount the unit on the right had side where the existing Ridgid extension is. I added the Ridgid extension outboard to it as well.
I reviewed all the good support examples in the forum . I decided to use a couple of Task Quick Support rods (www.task-tools.com ) that I purchased at a garage sale for $10.00 each. They were in almost new condition ,so I went about taking them apart chopping them down , a little bit of welding and mounted them on the saw. Save the remaining parts .

These extensions allow you to adjust the amount of force you want to apply to the bottom of the extension wing. The LH and RH threaded ends allow you to just rotate the shaft and they will expand and contract accordingly. I used a small rubber O-ring snugged up to the nut to prevent its unwinding under vibration. The shafts are normally yellow so I painted them orange in keeping with the Ridgid theme.

A note: the table configuration as seen here is definitely heavy to one side so I plan to add a folding 5th leg that will mount between the two support shafts. I plan to make it from the remaining bits of the Task support rods .

The Black Jack (or Peachtree) table installed great with no problems. I am still in the process of installing a plunge router to the Incra router plate and should have that done in a day or two.

Thank-you all for the good advice . Tero in Toronto

[21onen]

Good Day Again!
I spent a few hours and used the rest of the Quick Support rods to fabricate folding legs. All these parts can be found at your favorite Adult Day Care Center -Home Depot. The only parts you need other than the two quick support rods are
2- 5/8-11 coupling nuts (about 3 inches long I believe)
4- 3/4 " Rigid conduit straps (electrical)
1-5/8-11 threaded rod (will only use about 8" per leg)
2-Stanley Narrow Utility hinge 21/2" or 62mm
Some screws and washers and a pop rivet tool
1-can of Tremclad orange spray paint

Although my total cost was around $45.00 because I picked up the support rods at a garage sale the total if purchased is approx $90 USD. If the quick support rods are on special and you have some of these smaller bits then it could be in the $70.00 range.

Here is what it looks like with the folding outrigger legs. All are fully adjustable. The Diagonal braces still rotate but a little stiffer with the clamps. Note also that no holes were drilled into the table saw. The only attachment point is the 5/16 bolts that are on one side of the lower legs that hold the adjustable foot bracket. The original two bolts were removed and longer bolts put in place to allow for the 1/2 plywood.
Tero in Toronto

[erngum]

Hotdiggity,
Just be carefull when you use the Herculift. I have a Promax on my CM 22114 and I can lift the other end up with out much effort. The weight really is biased toward the Promax. Enjoy, you are going to love it.

[21onen]

I agree . This type of extension set up is not for a TS that is going to move around a lot. Just pulling it onto the driveway was slow. In my garage shop it will be moved very little . I plan to keep the outrigger stands in place to minimize the load off the TS base adjustable feet close to the extension side. Thx Tero in Toronto

[darius]

As I am looking into making a router extension for my TS I did some simple testing just a few minutes ago. I sat on the extension wings - both left and right. The saw did not tip under 190 pounds.

[Bob D.]

As I am looking into making a router extension for my TS I did some simple testing just a few minutes ago. I sat on the extension wings - both left and right. The saw did not tip under 190 pounds.


Wow, I don't think I would have tried that. I have a few pounds on you but not that many (205#). What would you have done if the wing broke or you bent the rails? I am glad nothing bad happened when you did this but I would put this in the "don't try this at home" category. Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I don't think so.


21onen: You've done a nice job making your braces and the legs. I like it.

[darius]

Wow, I don't think I would have tried that. I have a few pounds on you but not that many (205#). What would you have done if the wing broke or you bent the rails? I am glad nothing bad happened when you did this but I would put this in the "don't try this at home" category. Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I don't think so.
Bob, I appreciate the comment and the concern. I was concerned too so the test wasn't entirely as straightforward as I wrote.

My work bench is about 2 inches lower than the bottoms of the rails. I slid the TS over the surface of the work bench so if something gave in I would have fallen all of 2 inches onto my workbench. Of course I would have lost the rails too but that's the risk I was willing to take.

[21onen]

I have finally finished setting up my router onto the BlackJack(Peachtree) extension. I have a Jessem rail which I modified to mount on the extension t-slot 21 1/2 centers . An Incra router plate insert with a Mastercraft 7 A plunge router which I stripped down for this application. I ran 30 cabinet door slabs of 3/4inch MDF and was pleased with the stability of the table. The legs are holding up fine and have not had to adjust them after routing and cutting operations on the slabs. There was absolutely no wobble to the table . After spending many years routing on a small crappy router table this is pure heaven. I need to go out and sacrifice some more wood to the timber gods. Cya ! Tero T in Toronto

[fbaudrit]

I also installed the benchdog in my TS3650. I installed it to the left side which has given me the best access. I rigged it with a Milwaukee 5625-20 and it performs very well. I also installed the wing from the left to the right and haven’t had any issues with that, it leveled right and it’s not causing tipping or any other problem. I’m very happy with my setup as it is right now.

[Blkjack]

As I am looking into making a router extension for my TS I did some simple testing just a few minutes ago. I sat on the extension wings - both left and right. The saw did not tip under 190 pounds.
Yes I to also found that there was no other support needed, although I will add some folding steel legs for greater support at a later date.

[surberjrc]

I have the ridgid 4511 with the granite top and would like to mount a router table extension to it. Do you guys think this one would work? thanks