Glad I got the TS3660

[geofitz13]

I got the 3660 when Home Depot dropped the price to $399. At the time, I thought I got a good buy. Then, today I saw a 4511. I am now convinced I got a great buy!
To my eye, it looks like the 4511 table is smaller. Also, the max cut on the right side of the blade is only 30" compared to the 36" for the 3660. And the fence is far inferior to the 3660.
I did like the look of the granite top, although I prefer the cast iron. I also liked the idea of having the motor covered with a shroud.
But all in all, I am really happy with my 3660! It assembled like a breeze, needed almost no adjusting and cuts smoothly and accurately.

[BadgerDave]

I haven't seen one of the 4511's yet but I also feel the shorter rip capacity is a definite minus over the 3660 and previous models. IMO, the 36" rip capacity was a huge plus when comparing the Ridgid saw against others in its class. Now, the Ridgid saw is just another hybrid clone with a slightly more attractive selling price which could be negated if the fence is as inferior as you say.

[Roadster280]

I haven't seen one of the 4511's yet but I also feel the shorter rip capacity is a definite minus over the 3660 and previous models. IMO, the 36" rip capacity was a huge plus when comparing the Ridgid saw against others in its class. Now, the Ridgid saw is just another hybrid clone with a slightly more attractive selling price which could be negated if the fence is as inferior as you say.

I got the 3660 in December (head up ***, not knowing about the 4511) and paid full whack at $549. I then find out about the 4511, and start agonizing over whether to return the 3660 and get the 4511 (when available) for an extra $50.

In the meantime of course, I'm using the 3660 and absolutely stunned by the difference between it and circular saws I had been using in the past. I learn the lessons of the right wax to use, and marvel at the fence.

So when the nice people at HD drop the price to $399, it becomes a very straightforward thing for me. I took back the 3660 (complete with rusty fingerprints, because Turtle Wax is NOT Johnson's!), and get my $549 back. I then walk out the store with a shiny new 3660, and stop by Sears on the way home to get some T-9.

The 4511 looks to be great in some areas (riving knife, enclosed motor), not so great in others (fence looks a backward step, smaller table and rip capacity), and undecided in one (granite)(I was in a restaurant the other day with granite table tops, and they were chipped on the leading edge and scratched...). The 3660 on the other hand is a tried and proven beast. Is the 4511 better at all than the 3660? Maybe, it's marginal for me, so I was unsure when the price difference was only 10%. Is it 50% better, now the price has dropped? Uh, no.

Me=happy.

[thomm57]

I bought the TS3660 all so for $399.00. great buy great saw

[E Fisher]

I've just found a 3660 at Home Depot and am definitely considering getting it. I currently have a 2424 (Ridgid's model from several years ago) and see the 3660 as a cheap way to fix almost all of the shortcomings of the 2424. one of the shortcomings i'm looking to fix is the rinky-dink throat plate that comes with the 2424. it is thin, thin, thin and very hard to make zero clearance inserts for. If you want any thickness in the middle you have to rabbet the edges so that the thicker blank will set down in the saw. What a hassel.

So, after all of the whining, i have a question. Does the 3660 have the thick throat plate at the edges? i know that a lot of tables saws use 1/2' thick material for their plates. is this the case with the 3660?

thanks in advance for any assistance.

[chrisexv6]

I havent taken mine out completely yet, but from this thread: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=209512#post209512 it looks like the stocker is 1/2" thick.

The only issue with the 3660 is that the blade doesnt seem to drop far enough to easily make a ZCI. Also in that thread is the suggestion to route a 1/4" rabbet into where the blade path is so you can drop the new ZCI in and raise the blade to cut it. And, you can always try stacking your DIY ZCI on top of the stocker already installed, then raise the blade.

[E Fisher]

The blade on the 2424 never went down far enough to get compltely undet the zci plate either. i don't remember how i first cut the slot but it probably wasn't one of the safer things i've evewr done.

[Larry86]

I have both saws setting next to each other in my basement.
The table on the 3650 is only 4 inches wider than the 4511.
They both measure the same front to back. But for some reason the
3650 does look alot bigger.

The fence was a bone head move by Ridgid. Why Ridgid didn't make it 36" like the 3650 is beyond me. At first I hated the fence, but after getting every thing set up and lined up, it is actually easier to get the fence
lined up and cutting straight with the blade than the 3650 was.
But now I have to try and engineer the rails so I can cut 36" to the right.
(does anyone ever cut to the left of the blade?)

After using the 4511 for a week I am starting to like it more and more.
Its a lot more quite, rock solid and I like the way the blade starts and stops a lot faster.

[c.demille]

I bought the 3650 about a year and a half ago and it made me sick to see the 3660 for $399!!! Man, why can't I time things better! I must say that I would much rather have the 3650 than the new granite saw. The one here at my home depot already has a chip out of the table. One of the t-tracks had a chip out of the edge. I could see that being a huge issue, the thickness of the granite along the track is very thin and if you pried just right with your miter, it seems like it could pop out at the ends. The fence looks like garbage also. It will be interesting to see how the granite holds up when a heavy clamp or something falls and hits a corner. I will stick with my cast iron top.

[hewood]

...
The fence was a bone head move by Ridgid. Why Ridgid didn't make it 36" like the 3650 is beyond me. At first I hated the fence, but after getting every thing set up and lined up, it is actually easier to get the fence
lined up and cutting straight with the blade than the 3650 was.
But now I have to try and engineer the rails so I can cut 36" to the right.
(does anyone ever cut to the left of the blade?)

After using the 4511 for a week I am starting to like it more and more.
Its a lot more quiet, rock solid and I like the way the blade starts and stops a lot faster.

With a left tilt saw, you're not likely to ever need to cut on the left side of the blade. It shouldn't be too hard to slide things to the right for more rip capacity.

The R4511 is a hybrid design that's an evolutionary step forward overall, and addresses most of the issues associated with the 60 year old design of a traditional contractor saw with an outboard motor, though I think cast iron would have been a more popular bet. The enclosed cabinet offers better DC, and the motor location takes up less space and offers a shorter drive belt which equates to more efficient power transfer from the motor to the blade. The additional mass will make it as stable as a full cabinet saw. The cabinet mounted trunnions should be easier to align, and should have fewer alignment issues. The riving knife is a significant safety feature.

Before anyone gets too riled up about the R4511's fence.... it does not include the faces, so it "looks" a little scrawny, but note that the faces have little effect on the function. It's still a steel t-square design that is very much like the excellent Delta T2 and Jet Proshop designs that are often referred to as "Biese Lites". Every comment I've read from users of the fence had positive things to say. If the R4511's fence included the faces, I think a lot of people would have a different opinion of it...for that reason I think they should have included them, but give it a chance before dismissing it based on appearances.

With faces, the R4511's fence would look very much like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41F957FX1PL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

[VASandy]

Given a little time and the popularity of the R4511, there will undoubtedly be aftermarket faces for the fence.

For those who make ZCI's, if you don't yet have any "turner's tape" go get some!! I use this double-sided tape constantly and it's amazing!! I tape my ZCI blanks to the stock throat plate to make my initial cut. Once I've got it down near enough (just see the blade coming through), I take the ZCI off the stock plate and put it in the saw to make the final cut. The Turner's Tape is incredibly good at tasks like this. If you get at all worried, you can also take a long 2x4 or something and clamp it at either end over the ZCI. It won't move.

[FINER9998]

what is tuners tape and where can it be purchased? any chance for a hyperlink? thanks.

[cpw]

what is tuners tape and where can it be purchased? any chance for a hyperlink? thanks.

It is double sided tape, I assume for people doing turnings.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=689&cookietest=1

For my ZCI I just used regular scotch double sided tape (the thicker kind), and clamped the ZCI stock against my throat plate to get it good and tight before routing (I removed the clamps, just used them for the pressure to get the tape tight). Worked like a charm.

[VASandy]

That's the stuff. You can also get it at Penn State Industries, http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CMTAPE.html

It seems more expensive at Penn State, but I think it's a bigger roll.

[E Fisher]

Thanks to all of you who've contributed to this thread I bought a 3660 last night. I was going to wait for the 4511 but was put off by the idea of t-slot miter slots cut in the granite. There's no way that the granite can be as strong as the steel and I can easily imagine the grainite t-slots breaking or chipping very badly. Of course I may be wrong, and the new saw may be the best thing since sliced bread. Even so, I don't see how I could possibly go wrong with a 3660 at $400.

So, once again, thanks for the discussion.

[Roadster280]

E Fisher - hope you like the saw.

I'm on my second one (it's a long story, and not the saw's fault), and if I have one simple piece of advice to you, it is to check the nooks and crannies on both sides of the styrofoam in the box before you toss it. I didnt get the leg support plates with my second one, but I have a lingering doubt that they may have been in just such a place. Not to worry, Ridgid sending out another set, but others have missed the little bag with the end plates for the rails too.

Enjoy (and the instant you take the protective oil off the cast iron, protect it with something else)!

[E Fisher]

Roadster, thanks for the advice. I'm definitely looking forward to putt this bad boy together.

[Gofor]

what is tuners tape and where can it be purchased? any chance for a hyperlink? thanks.

You can also use carpet tape, found at Lowe's in the carpet section.

Go

[lamlam4]

The 3660 insert is 1/2" albeit about .015" under so if you use 1/2" material you still are better off rabbiting and tapeing for a perfect level. To cut it use a 8" blade first then a 10"- much safer!! Note my "ts3660 modifications" thread. I've just found a 3660 at Home Depot and am definitely considering getting it. I currently have a 2424 (Ridgid's model from several years ago) and see the 3660 as a cheap way to fix almost all of the shortcomings of the 2424. one of the shortcomings i'm looking to fix is the rinky-dink throat plate that comes with the 2424. it is thin, thin, thin and very hard to make zero clearance inserts for. If you want any thickness in the middle you have to rabbet the edges so that the thicker blank will set down in the saw. What a hassel.

So, after all of the whining, i have a question. Does the 3660 have the thick throat plate at the edges? i know that a lot of tables saws use 1/2' thick material for their plates. is this the case with the 3660?

thanks in advance for any assistance.