TS3650 arbor problem with dado sets

[Sawdust Steve]

I also posted this as a response on the Ask the Woodworking Experts forum. It is under a recent topic called TS3650 Problems!.

I have had my TS3650 for about 5 weeks now, and love it - except for one thing: DADO problem.

I agree 100% with Strong330 about the arbor problem. There is definitely a "recess" in the 5/8" arbor on mine too, about 1/8" out from the arbor flange. This recess is about 1/8" wide. The threaded portion of the arbor is a true 5/8" diameter, as is the 1/8" shoulder next to the arbor flange. This design has no effect on a single 10" saw blade, which sits on that 1/8" shoulder, but it sure affects the use of a stacked dado set. Any blade or chipper that lies over the recessed area will not line up true with the rest of the dado blades.

This amazed me, so I also called RIDGID support. They were immediately familiar with the problem, and said that the design was "inherited from Emerson", but that there was no plan in the works to change it. RIDGID suggests the use of a wobble dado set, or an adjustable set, like Freud makes. But a stackable dado set will not work right. To compound the issue, several on this forum have advised against the use of wobble dado sets.

To me, this is a major problem, as building bookshelves was a major reason that I purchased the saw. I had planned to make 3/4" dados on my saw. I realize I can make these with my router, but COME ON RIDGID! This is a major problem and oversight, and should be fixed.

I'm surprised by the number of people that say they have had no problems in using a stacked dado set. I even read a thread that indicated this design problem even existed on the TS2412. RIDGID must be changing designs back and forth.

I am open to any suggestions or information from anyone who knows about this issue. Bob Dueker, if you are out there, HELP!

[Mick]

An 8th of an inch? I have a stacked dado set and there is about a 16th of an inch divot in the dados i cut but I though that was just because I bought a $100 set and not a $200 set.
However it really isn't noticeable once you sand and glue the middle support of the shelving unit and top and bottom.
On large pieces like a 6 foot unit I use the table saw but i don't really like to. I prefer to use the router table for smaller pieces; it is far more accurate and easy to set up.
Anyway, I have noticed the issue but I am not sure why it is such a big problem with you. Especially in shelving that is going to get banded?? I am only guessing…
If you want fine fine woodworking, a table saw is not the best choice in my opinion, at least if I was that concerned, that’s what I would do. Since I have made a few shelving units
Now and it hasn’t been a problem, I can’t empathize with ya – sorry.

[Sawdust Steve]

Thanks, Mick. Actually, I have not measured the recess, but will do so tonight. Here is what the other gentleman (Strong330) wrote in the other forum:

I just purchased the TS3650 after reading it's decent review in the latest edition of Fine Woodworking. I'm surprised they did not mention the problem that I discovered (unless I'm missing something!!) After stacking 2 dado blades (the two outers in the set for a 1/4" cut) I noticed that one blade cut about 1/16" deeper than the other. I noticed that if a single blade is used, it sits on a "shoulder" on the arbor. It fits very snug there. The other blade sits between the shoulder and the threads in a "dead zone" that has a different diameter than the shoulder making the blade spin off center-and deeper. I agree with you that anything over 1/4" wide, such as 3/4" dados for bookshelves may hardly be affected. Depending on where one or two of the chippers line up on the recess, there would be some divot in the bottom of the groove, but that should not affect cosmetics or squareness. It is the smaller, 1/4" dado that I am curious about. I will set up tonight and do some testing on this.

[ 12-01-2004, 12:47 PM: Message edited by: Sawdust Steve ]

[imported_wbrooks]

Correct me if I am wrong guys but I think the mandrel on the 3650 is too short for the SD608 and I dont see how it would solve the problem anyway as the SD608 still has individual chippers that will sit in the shallow spot. A wobble would not be effected by the shallow spot but they make 'V' shaped dados anyway

[TGway]

Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you use a "spacer" to shift the blades over and it would only be a problem if you needed the full stack?...

[Sawdust Steve]

Thanks for the reply, TGway. You really want any blade to be butted up against the arbor flange. On my saw, the runout on the arbor is virtually 0". Any "spacer" would have to be milled to the same tolerances, or it would induce runout or wobble.

As I mentioned, I think the saw will work out ok, and yes, wbrooks, you are correct. The SD608 Freud does not fit the TS3650, but it is a stacked set as well, anyway. The only configuration that concerns me on paper involves something like a 1/4" dado made up of two outside 1/8" cutters. I don't know how well that second cutter (away from the arbor flange) will fit.

On larger dados, I have less concern, because most of the blades/chippers will be on the 5/8" diameter shoulder or the 5/8" diameter threads. Only the chipper that lies on the recess will probably be off-center, and that will serve to place a small divot on the bottom of the dado. But the overall integrity and the squareness of the dado cut should be fine.

It appears the Strong330, who started the thread on Ask the Woodworking Experts is a bit more upset at the whole matter: The service guys said all their arbors are the same-messed up ones. I'm a quality engineer for a large company. When we get a customer complaint, we jump through hoops to remidy the situation, no matter what!! Call the machine shop, change the print!! FIX THE PROBLEM!! I'm writing to Fine Woodworking Mag, (where I heard about this) and slamming Rigid. I am going to bring it back to Home Depot, partly assembled, enough to lighten the load, missing the box (already threw it out!), fence and leafs in a pile. What a dissapointment. I'm done with Rigid. The main reason I bought this saw was for dados. As always, thanks for everyone's input. For me, the good far outweighs the bad. The mandrell is a little quirky, but I can work with this.

[smashp]

I tried this out last night and I have the same problem. I have a freud sd300 stack set ant the first 1/8 chipper puts a higher grove in the bottom of the dado Cut. The Arbor has the same low point as described. The Real Problem is on 1/4 cuts.

On option is to cut shallow and get those beairng guided Dado cleanout bits that Mlcs or whiteside makes.

I can work aroung this.


Until...... What do we do about Box joints or cutting Tenons? Solution please?

[Sawdust Steve]

A similar thread to this one is getting a lot of play in the Ask the Woodworking Experts forum. The Topic is called TS3650 Problems.

[ 12-03-2004, 09:38 AM: Message edited by: Sawdust Steve ]

[Mike3206]

Guys, this is unsafe and should be taken care of. Get on the phone with Ridgid directly if you have to and get the problems resolved. Don't just live with it or take the word of a repair man. He probably doesn't want to deal with you. Make it an issue that needs to be addressed.

[imported_jaslfan]

All this talk has prompted me to go out to my shop to check my saw. I was using my Freud SD208 just tonight so I had to check.
There is indeed a low spot in the arbor, but it has a worst case runout of .008". And who knows, I might get it centered. Even at that it would only be an issue if I wanted to run 3/16 dados (2 blades and 1/16 chipper). I think I can live with it. ;)
Anyone want to buy a slightly used wobble dado because I'm not ever going back. Even with the possibility of a 1/16" groove .008" deep it still looks better than what the wobble does.

[imported_TRW]

Glad I bought a Grizzley!

[BrandMan]

Dear RIDGID Customers:

RIDGID is aware of the concerns of some owners of the TS3650 table saw regarding the application of a stacked dado blade set on the arbor shaft. It has been brought to our attention that a blade or chipper from a stacked dado blade set has the potential of resting in the low cut area near the inner flange. This low area may allow the chipper or blade to ride in the recessed area allowing one blade to cut slightly deeper than the other blade or chippers. In an effort to resolve this issue we are working with our engineering and manufacturing teams towards a quick resolution. Although this is not a safety related issue, we expect to have a resolution in a short amount of time that will be posted on our website.

[Mike3206]

Thanks for the post. In all honesty, my 3612 has threads almost up to the arbor, and there is no gap or low spot. All is perfect in the world of mike3206 table saw.

[Andrew M.]

I do not agree with the non safety issue. What is the problem,you need to thread the arbor fully not with a groove. You do not need to research that,just retool. Explain to me how an undersized arbor is not a safety issue. Dado cuts are much more demanding and if the blade is off center ,as on my saw 0.60" not 0.625" arbor dia. as is should be, it is off center of rotation,causing vibration,blade tip stress,a poor cut, excessive bearing loads, that will lead to more runout over time, and yes the more vibration the more possibility of getting hurt/slipping, blades becoming loose ,let alone more work to do the job. Your saw can not have the guard on during dado cuts,so it is inherently more dangerous even under ideal conditions. I contributed the poor cut last year,when I first used the saw, to Harbor Freight's dado set so I bought a Freud and of course, now I learn it is the arbor not the blade. I do not cut dados much, but this should be a possibility with this saw(except you designed the arbor so short that you are limited in what type of blade you can use). I also now have a useless dado plate that I bought since I do not have the saw.
I am also sorry I have bought the BS1400 which I spent hours adjusting,you can see the previous posts, (could not even open the door all the way to change blades,only one of many problems)I like my jp610 but it has had a defective fence to start out and a motor bearing went bad soon after use . That was when Jake was there and he was great. To your credit,Jake, sent replacement parts and it works fine, for now. The EB4424 also need minor adjustments(belt took off for the table when I first started it),the least of the tools. Why should I have to do all these repairs to these tools? I have a DeWalt RAS (1980's)that I have never fixed and most other tools I have I do not have problems with. I have a BT3000, which can be problematic, that has no problems. Thankfully I did not buy any of your cordless tools.
I am only a part time woodworker and take pride in maintaining my tools. They do not get much use and no abuse. Because of all the problems with Ridgid, I bought a DeWalt CMS and a Makita SCMS,DeWalt,Makita,Milwaulkee corded and cordless.(no problems)
The arbor is not a cosmetic issue such as "orange color". I have posted that the defects of tilted motor mount bracket,leg flex(was told that I would be contacted on fix ,saw bought 10/04 and no response),hardware is of poor quality and lead to some breakage,a bent motor cooling fan with long set screw causing vibration,and now this. It is the final time I will deal with the ts3650 saw. HD did give me store credit,but now I am forced to have to spend more money elsewhere, and have this credit which I can not use for another saw that I need. Epoxy on an arbor is not safe and durable.
You have lost a customer and I will not buy anything again unless there are major changes in the way your Co. does business. It is a shame because these problems could all have been avoided if the quality control was better. The saw can work well but I can not understand how you sell products like this IF you claim to be a professional line". These are not professional tools except maybe the jp610. I really like that tool.
I do commend you for the open forum but it does not change my opinion.

[imported_Bob D.]

Andrew, I noticed the other day that my local HD has the Delta contractor style table saw for sale on their floor, maybe yours does too and you could put your store credit towards the Delta if you like it.

[daveferg]

Andrew---please see my post on the "safety issue" on one of the other threads. It really isn't. It the defect was larger or on more of the arbor, it would be---But, it's certainly a quality problem.

[Andrew M.]

Dave in the one blade setup there is no issue but with the weight of the Freud se and an off ctr. cutter I think it is not as safe,and does cause vibration and a poor cut, etc.

As to the HD delta ts,thanks ,I thought of that, but the t2 fence is not as good as the ridgid and it has stamped wings. I hate stamped wings.
I bought the sears/beis hybrid saw for $650 after tax and discounts($1028 reg. w. tx. way overpriced). Solid cab construction except for the plastic motor door,(no legs to twist),Beis commercial fence,cast iron wings,small outfeed extension, ( I did not mind the ridgid fence except for the plastic especially the handle),How much more could it have cost for a metal one?. I thought of the delta uni clone/rockler sale ,$975 better motor/trunion but the t2 fence again,which is the same" accufence" used on Harbor Freights cab saw and is a $150 part. Not rated well by wood mag and it has very light gauge and small size construction as to rail contact compared to the Beis.. The Grizzly 1023 is a better saw I think. (I can not complain about the commercial Beis.now)At 220v the 16a/1.75hp motor will be ok for my use and getting that better fence will make the saw ,I hope. It will be interesting as to how well that trunion design functions since it still uses motor weight for tension,but it is in a vertical plane with the same type of belt as the ts3650,and it is cast iron instead of the light weight zinc metal? on the ts3650.and mounted to the cab not the top. It has cast iron pulleys,easy guard removal, and 4" dust collection too. The Leitz 40th blade is supposed to be a good one. We shall see. It is built by Orion not TTI.
The ts3650 is a good but not a great saw and has a lot of poor quality control issues with a noexistent service location in my area. I should have known when I first started up the saw and the fan was making a load noise I was in for trouble.

[ 12-12-2004, 03:53 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Benedetto ]

[daveferg]

Andrew----and just where is the chipper going to go? Do you think it could build enough cintrifical force to snap a 5/8" arbor? Since you didn't bother looking at my earlier post, I'll repeat it. First, I own one of the previous Emerson-made Craftsman saws, with the bad arbors. There was never a safety problem (and I cut a lot of, all be it, crumby dados). Second, I've been examining machine guarding, amoung other safety functions, for over 18 years and if this was actually a safety issue, I'd certainly say so.

I do, however agree with the rest of your comments on the 3650. I think there are enough factual problems with the saw, without claiming that there are safety issues that don't exist. I've said it before----it would be a good saw at $400, but when you (as has been written here) have to do your own fix to repair weak legs, fix motor bolt problems (which some people have reported before)---not even be able to buy a dado insert (no---I don't believe a saw should require you to make one), no pre-made zero-clearance inserts (which were available for the 3612), etc.

I would say that Ridgid "may" fix this problem, but when they send out a replacement arbor with the exact same problem, you have to wonder how serious they're taking it.

[Andrew M.]

Well I had a sears cir late 1970's saw that had the snap ring break holding the arbor assembly which caused the blade/arbor to move out of the bearing. The guard,blade were destroyed. It was not not an experience I would want to repeat. I was not using a wobble dado at that moment but had in the past. I think that over stressed the ring holding the arbor.
Vibration is a safety issue and I am sure this was a rare event,I do not even know if the same design is on the 3650. I agree ,I do not think it would cause the arbor to snap ,but I want a saw that does not have this defect on a critical part,I do not want to fix another problem myself(no service ctr. here),who knows when and if they will retool and it became the final problem of quality control issues for me,and I decided to return the saw. It did cut very well with using a regular (not stock) blade.

[daveferg]

Andrew----interesting---I know exactly which part you're talking about (from my experience disassembling the saw). There certainly was a vibration problem with the saws, but of course, part of my original interest in this board was that Emerson kept making improvements, which were easy enough to implement on the old Craftsman saws.

Frankly, I'll never understand why Ridgid stopped making what had by the time they took over, had been the top-rated 3612---which by then, had most every minor problem worked out of it---now, it seems they're back to, maybe not square one--but at least square two. ;)

[keith911]

I also owe the 3650 and read all the post about the arbor problems and dado problems, being very mechanically incline I went to the saw did every measurement that could be done -results were no problem- then i put the stacked dado's on and started from the smallest to the widest dado- no problem, now if there was a problem i would have found it considering the fact that i also own a unisaw x5 and use the 3650 more often then the delta( i am not saying that the delta has a problem)it is definetly a QC problem that let these bad arbors get past them and i hope that for all you 3650 owners that have these problems I hope Ridgid takes care of the problem in a timely manner.

Happy Holidays to all
Keith Pettersen

[campaholic]

I was encouraged by Brandman's post so I called my local repair center and explained my problem. I even faxed them a drawing of the arbor.

Two days later they called me back to say that they had talked to several people at Ridgid, and they had all said that it was a design from Emerson and that there was no plan to fix the problem. My repair center was very apologetic, but said that there was nothing more that they could do for me, and were sorry about the problem.

[Sawdust Steve]

Campaholic, I'm not sure who you spoke with at RIDGID, but I posted in the "Ask the Woodworking Experts" Forum (the big recent post, with 88 replies) that I had spoken with the directors of sales, customer service and product development at RIDGID/OWT, and they definitely have plans to fix this issue.

I even included their names and phone number in that post, should you be so inclined. I'd encourage several of our forum members to contact these people themselves.


Steve,

Thank you again for the information. Customers like you are very valuable to us, and we look forward to hearing more from you in the future. For your reference, you were speaking with the following:

Kevin Cameron - Director of Sales, Professional Power Tools
Steve Steadings - Director of Product Development
Ernie Swords - Director of Customer Service

Thank you again, and we appreciate your continued support.

Kevin Cameron
Director of Sales, TTI - Professional Power Tools
864-332-5678 Hope this helps.
Steve

[campaholic]

Thanks

I will try to call them in the morning. I feel that the more people they hear from the better. One of my main reasons for getting this saw was to do nice dados.

Roger

[keith911]

I just spoke with kevin Cameron( 20 minutes worth)He assured me that the arbor problem is being taken care of and will be posted on the 20 of this month, also said the arbors will be shipped to all 3650 owners free of all charges

Keith Pettersen

[keith911]

Daveferg

Why do you have to be so negative

[strong330]

With all the negative press that they are/have been getting on this issue; as well as our concerns sent to the shop mgr. at Fine Woodworking; as well as numerous promises made by the director of sales and customer service; as well as a potential (potential) safety issue...and on and on and on...I'm quite confident that they will fix this. I don't think they want to find out what we will do next if they don't.

[keith911]

I totally agree with you Strong, I do believe that they will fix the problem but i do not think that a person who does not even own the tool should voice a comment about the tool especially to those of us out here who paid good money for the tool,we can read the reviews and choose for our selves and do not need a critic like we all know who he is. Just my opionon whether it counts or not- I don't know
Keith

[daveferg]

Originally posted by keith911:
Daveferg

Why do you have to be so negative Hey Keith---why don't you read what is said before you go flapping your jaws about someone. Negative---heck, I've been providing various people who actually know how to read, with facts on this problem dating back to the Emerson I OWN!! Funny though, you seem to be the only one who Ridgid has chosen to whisper in his ear. We just had a post on another thread about one of Ridgid's factory service centers saying they wouldn't replace the arbor.

Negative :rolleyes: :rolleyes: I spent three posts on this thread trying to convince Andrew it WAS NOT a safety issue. You want to start something, fine, but for now, I'll just chalk it up to your not wanting to read all my comments on this----there are some around here who might say I've been helpful.

[keith911]

dave did i put you down at all?? i just asked a question, so what ever dave, i just asked you a question.

[daveferg]

Keith---as I tried to get through to you, I've been anything but negative. I have no interest in this issue other than I've been through it and have replaced my arbor, so I just MIGHT have something to contribute. And your only comment to me is I'm negative. Well, unlike you, I'm not running around sucking up to Ridgid----I'm starting very honest opinions, based on facts.

[keith911]

Sucking up to ridgid!!!!!! what the hell does that mean, they were very polite to me as i was to them, I would not call that sucking up. I was on the level with them and they were to me(honest i think or at least hope they were).

[Chuck01835]

Anybody hear any new information on the Cameron statement i.e. the fix released on the 20th? I'm hoping I don't have to return my 6 week-old TS3650. Other than this ( what I consider a serious problem ), I really like the saw.


Thanks,

Chuck

[keith911]

Hey Chuck I have not heard any more except what I posted about the fix and they promised it will be posted on the site on the 20th-Monday, hopefully we will not have to cross our fingers and Kevin Cameron will follow thru on what he said, as far as retuning the saw I do not think that will be nessecary yet, lets wait to see what happens monday,by-the way how do you like your saw???

Happy holidays
Keith

[keith911]

Sorry chuck i see you really like your saw

[Chuck01835]

Thanks for the reply, Keith.
To be honest, until I dadoes with the saw, I was extremely pleased with it's performance. Before my purchase, I read all the posts about the leg flex et al. I wasn't too concerned as I figured I could add a side brace if necessary, and at the sub $500 price that I paid, I knew it would not be a Unisaw or PM66. I've purchased middle of the road and high end tools, and have found that most all benefit from some end-user tweaking. ( I've almost always gotten burnt on cheap, no-name tools! ) I checked out a few saws at different HD's and most were horribly set up, and the fence worked like crap. Then at one store, somebody took the time to set it up right, and I was amazed at the difference. Needless to say I took my time with setup and was very happy with the results. The leg flex on my saw was no where near as bad as reported.The fence movement was smooth and alignment was repeatable. Fence to blade and slot alignment is about 0.005. Arbor runout was minimal. The saw is very smooth, I've actually passed the nickel test while turning on the saw AND running a board through! ( Forrest blade ). Anyways thats why its a little disheartening to discover this problem, as I thought this saw was the rare all-around no-brainer. The groove in my arbor is worse than others, around 0.580 and quite wide so the problem is severe and the results are wuite noticable. I sure hope Ridgid comes out with a decent fix, not just epoxy ( read new arbor ). Let me know if you hear anything.


Chuck

[keith911]

sorry to hear about the arbor Chuck .58 is to say alittle excessive, a i kinda thought that the leg flex was only a display problem although others have complained about the leg flex, thankfully i do not have a problem with mine as you do with yours, mine did not pass the nickle test untill i installed the link belt, made a great difference in the saws performance, seems to have a little more power also, but then again it might be psychological-know what i mean and at 26.00 dollors i think the belt was worth it, i just bought the kreg mitre gauge for the saw but have not used it yet but i will keep you posted on it- anyhow lets wait to see what happens monday with the posting of the arber problem, by the way did you e-mail Ernie Swords???

Good luck and happy holidays to ya
Keith

[papa curtis]

Please help me fellow chatters, or is all that doesn't matter is the chatter. I have been researching this 3650 for several months and now I find that there appears to be a problem. Do I buy it or don't I, that is the question. I enjoy making home projects and need something larger that a 7 inch saw. How many of these saws have been sold and what is the percentage of failed or returned saws? I would be making this purchase in the next week. Who was able to purchase the 3650 for less than $547, which is what HD wants today here in SoCal.
Happy Trails :rolleyes:

[daveferg]

I saw the leg flex problem on the first display model---it was real enough---yet another problem Emerson once solved, only to be revisited by current Ridgid. However, later units appear to have reduced the problem, at least enough so the saw didn't feel unstable (as it did with the one I checked out).

[daveferg]

As I had said before, I've replaced the arbor assembly on my saw, based on original instructions I got from another owner. So, I went looking for your typical parts diagram and it's not to be found on any of Ridgid's sites that I can find. Parts doesn't even list the 3650 and the owners' manual doesn't have the parts diagrams in it either.

Anyway, if Ridgid does send out the arbors and if the instructions aren't clear, maybe someone could e-mail a diagram to me to look at, because the way I did it was relatively easy. And, the plus side---I didn't have any extra parts left after re-assembly. ;)

[daveferg]

Papa Curtis----While this arbor problem is a hit or miss kind of thing, I would say how Ridgid ultimately responds to and handles the problem is what I'd be looking at.

IMHO, I don't thing the saw is worth $550---if you got a deal at around $400----fine. In the meantime, I'd also suggest you look at alternatives such as Grizzly, Bridgewood, General. Delta and Jet are also good saws, but tend to take you into the $800-1000 price range pretty easily. Just compare apples and apples, etc.

[hewood]

Originally posted by papa curtis:
I have been researching this 3650 for several months and now I find that there appears to be a problem. Do I buy it or don't I, that is the question.
Happy Trails :rolleyes: HI Papa Curtis - There are so many other good choices right now in this price range, I'd definitely be investigating others. Grizzly, GI, Bridgewood, the new Delta 36-680, the new Sears 22114....

[keith911]

thats a major accomplishment dave----- no parts left over wish that would happen to me

[Chuck01835]

Keith, Who's Ernie Swords? Oh and one more question, How did you upgrade to the link belt? My pulleys are not standard v-belts, they are multi-grooved flat belts more like an automotive serpentine belt. Did you change your pulleys also?

Hey Dave,

If we do get new arbors, I'd love to get any tips on you as far as replacement methods. My current arbor has excellent runout of about 0.001. I sure would hate to mess that up.


Papa Curtis, I really like this saw ( except for the arbor problem ) I paid 547 less 10percent during a friend and family sale , bringing it down to 492 . My suggestion is to wait a bit if you like the saw, 1st to see how ridgid reacts to this within the next week or so, and also to wait for a sale. If I were you, I'd bring a set of calipers to the store, open the bos and check the arbor right there before lugging it home. That problem was the only legitimate problem that I experienced. I have to say, I own a Grizzly band saw and its a nice machine, so maybe the Griz would be an alternative.

Good luck!

CHUCK


good luck!

[keith911]

I think he is product development and yes to the pulleys sorry he is director of c.s.

[ 12-19-2004, 01:13 AM: Message edited by: keith911 ]

[Sawdust Steve]

Hello Keith, Papa Curtis and others. In response to a couple of recent questions, here are the guys at OWT/RIDGID that we are communicating with:

Kevin Cameron - Director of Sales, Professional Power Tools

Steve Steadings - Director of Product Development

Ernie Swords - Director of Customer Service

Kevin's number is 864-332-5678.

I, like all of you, am anxious for the arbor issue to be resolved, and feel that it is going to be. Obviously, they have to design, prototype, tool up, produce and test a new arbor before shipping, but I feel that these guys are going to get it done, and hopefully begin to turn around the customer service issues that they have.

I love my new 3650, and know that there are other good ones out there as well. I have it adjusted and "tuned" very well, and it gives me very precise results. Don't get me wrong; the saw does have idiosyncrasies. When I adjust my fence with a dial gauge to be parallel with the miter slot, I have to allow for the slight outward flex that takes place on the fence when it is clamped down.

The real test of this saw will be the test of time. Will the settings remain true and square day in and day out? I am only a weekend woodworker, but I still want a saw that can maintain its settings over time. Factors like vibration and temperature will affect these settings. I am hoping the saw stands up to these things.

As to the question of leg flex, Chuck, there have been some old posts on here with suggestions on how to make the legs "stiffer" using extra washers. I did this, and my 3650 is rock solid. Should a user need to do this? No. Did my TS3650 require it? I'll never know, as I assembled it with the extra washers the first time I built it. The floor models at HD did flex, and I could not be sure whether it was inherent in the design, or simply a case of hasty in-store setup, as is usually the case at Home Depot. If anyone wants specific info or the leg reinforecment technique, do a search or email me.

Steve

[keith911]

well today came and just about went and no post from Ridgid about the arber fix, so i got on the horn with them again and was told that the problem is in the hands of there engineers and the post will be out soon but no date

[dietz]

Would one make the assumption that if they fix the arbour problem, would you be able to use the SD series of dado ? I have been looking into this saw and do not want to make a purchase unless i was able to use a GOOD dado cutter !!

[daveferg]

I'm not a machinest, but have seen plenty of machine shops-----if this is a hit or miss problem, there's one of two things---either they had two sources/shops making the arbor threads or at one source, someone wasn't watching what some CNC machine was making-----so why do they need an engineering fix???? If there's a mix----some were obviously made right, so all they have to do is make some more and CHECK THEM. ;)

[Sgt Beavis]

I am very disappointed that Ridgid didn't do anything today. I would have hoped that they had at least come out with an explaination as to why they are not ready to replace the arbors.

My little brother is a machinist. I'm taking the arbor to him when I go home for Christmas. He said he'd make one for me.

[keith911]

me too sgt

[strong330]

Just got an e-mail from John White (Fine Woodworking Mag.) regarding the arbor problem. He has been working with Rigid engineering. Sounds like they're getting...somewhere I guess?

"Just got this response back from Ridgid. I've asked them for details of
how to arrange for getting the parts or the repair done, but it seems like they will be willing to correct the problem."

"Unfortunately, some TS3650 arbor assemblies have incomplete threads which may cause problems when using a stacked dado. If a customer has such a saw, correct arbor assemblies are available from RIDGID® at no charge. A customer can elect to replace this assembly on his own or take it to an authorized service center for free replacement."

If I hear more I will let you know.

John White

[centaur76]

Whats Up Fellas

Was wondering what you guys think. I bought the Ts3650 about 3 weeks ago. It wasnt until a week after I bought it that I discovered the wonderful arbor problem. Ive set the saw up and havent even used it yet. Im debating returning the saw and going and buying the grizzly or possibly new craftsman. What do you guys think for 603 bucks I dont feel like fixing a damn thing and if I have to bring it to be fixed I mine as well get my money back while Im there. So what do you think I should do? I feel that the dado operation is an important one and on a new saw should be flawless! Maybe Im just a little frustrated here but Ive called every number and person that has been posted here as a contact and to no avail have I recieved any positive response other than the fine woodworking writer and its not even his company. Rigid is taking a huge step down in my eyes. anyway enough complaining.

Merry Christmas everyone
Later Centaur76

[hewood]

Hi Centaur76 - Here's more reading on the arbor issue in case you're interested:
http://www.ridgidforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000546;p=1

[Andrew M.]

I am very happy that I was able to buy a cab. saw at sears with a Beis commercial fence for $600 before tax(combining sales and CC discount). Got best rating from woorkbench mag and I can now do dados , more hp 1 3/4, true cab. mounted trunion,throatplates that are the same as a unisaw, no legs to twist,real dust control, top quality blade,extension table board,etc. As the mag said at the price $950 list, you would need to spend $1000 more to buy a full cab saw and all you really get is more durability and 3hp. For a home shop I doubt it would matter. Orion makes the saw and I have had excellent CS in my questions and their quick responses. No TTI to deal with!!!!!! The down side is that I have a $650 credit at HD b/c it was too long to return for a refund.
If I were you I would pack that up as fast as I can and get your money back. I can not believe how stupid I was in all the fixes I did and did not look at that arbor sooner. I thought the cuts on the cheap blade set I had caused it. I really should have gotten a refund not store credit but it was hard enough getting that.
I never ever got a call back after being told numerous times I would. Do a search and you can read previous posts. I am mad at the time I wasted playing around with the: motor,mounts,hardware,stand,blade warp(they did send me a new one) and the lack of consern on TTI part to fix problems except to say to bring it to a service center that would be 6 hrs. driving to and fro each time, are they really serious?(I live in the LA area not exactly remote) Great lifetime warranty. This is a poorly run corp. and I am stuck with several other tools but at least they are the grey ones. I was a supporter but not anymore. The word is out look at woodnet for example, I think you will see an end to this model with the new sears design and cost, and they probably will want to avoid retooling costs and hope you all forget about it. Oh,that post on this site which was going to be listed on their fix where is it? I would not count on anything soon based on my past experience.

[smashp]

bump for lack of update from ridgid.

[daveferg]

Andrew---have to say a post extolling a Craftsman over Ridgid is REALLY a smack in the kisser to Ridgid. :D :D :D Glad you like the new saw---even Sears can see the errors of previous ways. ;)

I would agree it would be a smart move to let the 3650 die. Just MHO, but why they ever replaced the 3612 is beyond me. There was a proven standard which had done nothing but get better over the years. Heck, it had even gotten great magazine reviews---yet, they pull it in favor or a tool plagued with problems and lack of QC.

[Sgt Beavis]

I'm afraid I might just go the same route Andrew did. I decided not to have my brother make a new arbor for me. Instead, I think I'm going to sell my saw and upgrade to a cabinet saw. This has already been a very big put off for me buying any more Ridgid tools. I wanted to buy their Sliding Compound miter saw but because of the knuckle dragging going on here, I ended up buying a DW708.

[Woody44]

Originally posted by daveferg:
As I had said before, I've replaced the arbor assembly on my saw, based on original instructions I got from another owner. So, I went looking for your typical parts diagram and it's not to be found on any of Ridgid's sites that I can find. Parts doesn't even list the 3650 and the owners' manual doesn't have the parts diagrams in it either.

Anyway, if Ridgid does send out the arbors and if the instructions aren't clear, maybe someone could e-mail a diagram to me to look at, because the way I did it was relatively easy. And, the plus side---I didn't have any extra parts left after re-assembly. ;)

[Woody44]

Screwed up on my first attempt to reply - You can download a pdf file of the "Repair Sheet" by going to http://www.ordertree.com/ipllist.asp?groupid=108&desc=Power%20Tools and selecting TS3650 from the list.

Originally posted by daveferg:
As I had said before, I've replaced the arbor assembly on my saw, based on original instructions I got from another owner. So, I went looking for your typical parts diagram and it's not to be found on any of Ridgid's sites that I can find. Parts doesn't even list the 3650 and the owners' manual doesn't have the parts diagrams in it either.

Anyway, if Ridgid does send out the arbors and if the instructions aren't clear, maybe someone could e-mail a diagram to me to look at, because the way I did it was relatively easy. And, the plus side---I didn't have any extra parts left after re-assembly. ;)

[keith911]

Hey strong as i said in the pm to you, Ridgid has the first shipment of new arbors in and are distributing the at this time, the efforts of all paid off, this can be confirmed by a gentleman named Larry Snyder at ridgid c.s.

[Woody44]

Keith - Will Ridgid be sending parts out based upon registered units or do we have to make a specific request, and if so, to whom?

[keith911]

Woody if i were you i would call ridgid c.s. and ask for Larry Snyder, and i don't think he will give you a problem at all, i just got this news today at 1:30 pm from larry snyder

Keith

[daveferg]

Keith---I'm going to start calling you Ridgid's Prophet, since you seem to be the only one they are talking to.

I'm sorry, but where is the promised post of 12/20? Where is their announcement about sending out the arbors, posted on this board?

Frankly, I think they're duping you on this. If they wanted to get out a message of support, they'd be doing more than telling one person.

Woody---I tried the link you posted and e-mailed me--thanks, but when I click on the 3650, all I get is a blank screen.

[keith911]

Shame on them for not posting when they said they would,Dave I am not blowing smoke up anyones butt just relaying what has been said to me, and again alls anyone has to do is call Ridgid at 1-866-4-RIDGID go to cust. service and ask for Larry Snyder or Ernie Swords, Larry is the one that you would want to talk with as he seems to be more up to date then Ernie Swords, or even ask for Scott in tech. services(don't know his last name though). I pride myself on being honest even though at times i took alot of heat for things that did not go the way they were suppose to as told to me- so be it, I am just passing on the word that was givin to me.

Keith

[Woody44]

Dave,

The document is in Adobe pdf format. I just tried it, having started Adobe Reader first and it opened OK. You may have to wait for the file to load.

Woody

[daveferg]

Keith---in no way blaming you for passing on what you're told. I still find it unusual that the guy you're talking to is the only one who seems to be talking. We've had any number of posts on this problem---even had FWW Mag. involved----I would just think that Ridgid would follow up with those people as well---that and that fact they have yet to post an announcement---well, makes my wonder about your guy.

[Chuck-what]

The TS3650 repair sheet is a 1.4MB PDF file. If you don't have acrobat reader you won't be able to see the file. It is a free program at adobe.com.

[keith911]

I can't blame you Dave, I have alot of time on my hands, and it gets put to good use and if they are blowing smoke( they maybe) I am sorry for being so nieve and if the are not well then good for them, as said they said the new arbor went out in the mail yesterday, I'll give them 1 week to receive it as should strong because he mention him aslo, and if notta then there will be hell to pay if you know what i mean, I can't answer about the post, or why me( they got about 20 calls from me) maybe i am more persistant then others because i have more time on my hands then others do-I don't know, lets just wait and see what happens okay Dave

[daveferg]

Woody---gad, had to down load the file first, then it would open----anyway, it looks pretty similar to my saw. I'll dig out my old directions and post them as to the change out, than the first person who does it on the 3650 can tell us if there were any differences----though, I would think they'd send out instructions if they're just sending you an arbor assembly. But who knows.

[keith911]

Hey Dave where would you look for the post, i have no clue if it would be here or on there site, I've searched there site but do not know where to look

[imported_Bob D.]

Dave wrote:
"...Frankly, I think they're duping you on this. If they wanted to get out a message of support, they'd be doing more than telling one person. ..."

I have to agree with Dave on this. there should be some place on their web site with info on this, maybe even a page where you could register to receive the new arbor. They could use the web page to collect up-to-date shipping information, serial number of the saw, name, etc. this could all feed into a database that could then be used to ship out the new arbors.

The way this is playing out it seems that they will only do the minimum amount necessary to rectify the problem, namely only ship new arbors to those who call and comlain about the bad arbor. The less new arbors they have to ship the less this fiascio will cost them (so they think).

If this is the way they plan to handle this issue then they have left out the taste factor, namely the bad taste that potential future customers will have for their lack of commitment to quality and customer satisfaction.

If they plan to send a new arbor with instructions on performing the replacement personally or the option to have it replaced at a service center at no cost then that will be great but why not inform everyone here instead of leaving us in the dark??

[daveferg]

I think Bob is right----soooooooo----let's start a campaign telling all 3650 owners to call Ridgid next week---- :D :D :D :D

Keith----in the past, Ridgid has had no problem posting new tool announcements both here (usually on the ww'ing and power tool boards)and on their main page.

Now, in fairness----when Emerson was first confronted with the problem, they didn't give out new arbors to the old owners (though by then, they were no longer making Sears tools). But, it was openly discussed by Ridgid's rep. on this board (Jake) and they fixed the darned problem years ago on the 2424 and 3612.

[keith911]

I agree with Bob also,Where in jersey are you from Bob

[Sawdust Steve]

Hi everyone. Some of you may remember me - I'm the guy that started this thread, and was involved a lot on the "big thread" in the Experts forum. I don't think I'm a prophet any more than Keith is, but I would like to think we could get to the bottom of this, too.

As you may remember, OWT/RIDGID called me a few weeks ago, with Ernie, Steve and Keith (Sales Mgr) on the speakerphone. I was pleased that they had responded to an individual like myself; it showed concern on their part. Actually, it all started with my calling their public relations firm about two hours prior to that.

Now I am, like many of you, mystified that they have not participated more in our forum than the one reply they sent. I have tried to be an advocate for them, and have even sent a couple of emails to them urging them to post a reply in our forum. I just left a message for Kevin Cameron, who is likely off until after New Years. I asked him to call me back so we can discuss the situation.

As I said, folks like Strong330, Keith and I don't profess to have any special connection with RIDGID. I have no pride of ownership here; I'll be happy to see the problem fixed, and will be grateful to any of you who can help facilitate that. Like some of you, I'm just a poor bum who took off a couple of days for New Years, and whose life is so hectic that I am writing in a woodworking forum the day before.

Hope all of you have a great New Year, and we'll hopefully cut some good dados soon.

[keith911]

Thanks sawdust that is all i am doing, just trying to get the problem solved. I am not meeting any resistance with ridgid as i am on this site, I can't answer the tough Questions I am being asked here just forwarding what is said to me there.

[daveferg]

Steve---glad you're back in the frey. My point has been that the guy Keith is talking to is the only one who seems to be making recent, definete promises. Why haven't you received a call with the latest promise? If you talked to their PR firm----either they don't listen to them or they should be fired. ;) Happy New Year

[Chuck-what]

In looking at the TS3650 repair parts sheet and changing the arbor shaft is not going to be trivial. My fear is that by letting the consumer (me/us) change it we are going to cause more problems ( increased runout etc). I believe you will have to take the complete arbor assembly apart to do it correctly. This is 300 pounds of saw that you will probably have to take off the base and turn upside down. The arbor was preassembled for a reason. Even taking it to a service center won't be fun. This whole thing has left a bad taste for the saw. I did the "epoxy fix" and it is satisfactory but I shouldn't have had to do it. If the replacement instructions aren't simple then I think there are going to be a lot more frustrated folks likely to rebel even more against ridgid tools.

[imported_Bob D.]

Keith wrote:
" ... I am not meeting any resistance with ridgid as i am on this site ... "

Keith, I don't think (from the way I read everyone's comments) that anyone here is trying to offer you resistance. I think everyone is glad to hear what you have relayed to us about the situation, but they (and I) are raising questions about why Ridgid has not followed through with a posting about the remedy as they haad siad they would.

I, for one, do not doubt what you have told us on the forum what has been told to you by Ridgid, I would just like to see them being a little more proactive in resolving the problem.

[keith911]

Thats what i can't answer Bob, But thanks anyway okay I am done here for today and want to wish you all a very safe and happy new year,

Keith

[centaur76]

Well I fixed my Ts3650 tablesaw problem, I brought it back. I wasnt about to wait for Rigid to give me a response if we were important to them they would have had responses up here daily. Rigid will not be getting any money from me in the future. I called everyone there was to call and wrote everyone I could trying to get the issue resolved. I was non important to them and so was my hard earned money. This is there own web site to Im sorry they just dont have the commitment to their customers right now. Hope everything works out for the best.

later Centaur76

[hewood]

Originally posted by daveferg:
I think Bob is right----soooooooo----let's start a campaign telling all 3650 owners to call Ridgid next week---- :D :D :D :D
Wonder if they'd get Ridgid's attention if all 3650 owners with arbor problems returned the saws next week! :eek: :D ;)

[Andrew M.]

I had to change out the arbor on an older emerson /sears model and it is a PITA. I wound up drilling a hole in the cab to get access to get it out b/c otherwise I would have had to remove the top, that model had some screws at the opposite end of the blade holding a retainer that could not be gotten to and I also had to tap out the arbor and you have no room to do this with the top on the cab. I do not know if you will have to do that since the screws are not in the 3650, it has a ring part #48,p.18. It also has the same design with a E clip holding the arbor ,and that is a weak design ,as I had it fail and it is no fun when the arbor comes loose during saw opperation! I was lucky to have the blade guard in place and it had a regular blade mounted at the time. Scared me enough to sell the saw after I fixed it. I think use of the sears wobble dado caused the failure and I would not recommend it on this saw,or any other due to the stress placed on the arbor/bearing and that clip in this type of design.
Look at part#45,on p. 18 of the ordertree link.

My new sears saw 22124, has a locknut not a "E" clip holding the arbor, I did not have access to the diagram when I purchased it and I never thought they would still have that design. It is dangerous if that part fails. Do you want a clip to hold the arbor on or a locknut on a spinning blade? ( Ridgid did not have a parts list on the saw at the time of purchase.) I was able to see the 22124 diagram to check the design, which is a true cab mounted trunion,cast iron not some zinc casting/pot metal or whatever they are using on the 3650, not that is defective but also not as stong design .

There was no way I was going to do that repair again on a new saw along with all the other defects(see previous post for details) in design and lack of CS support on issues. I gave up and returned the saw.
I do not like to bash, but this is not anywhere as good as any of the new sears/orion models. This design should come to an end IMHO. Orion has been excellent in CS so far. As far as how their saw will hold up over time,only time will tell but in design/build there is no comparison.

[ 01-02-2005, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Benedetto ]

[daveferg]

Well, I'd have to say that the biggest error the current Ridgid company did was in allowing a formally solved problem to crop up again. Why is it that I get the feeling that when OWT took over, they didn't bring over any former Emerson employees who knew anything about their tools--can't say for sure---but we all know they sure as heck didn't bring over any of Emerson's old customer service people. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Andrew---I do hope your new saw works out for you. Personally, I would agree with Hewood and say everyone should take the saw back to HD, but I know there are people who otherwise like the saw---it's just a decission they're going to have to make, since that new arbor isn't going to put itself into the saw.

While I found the replacement job a "challenge", it's not all that bad. I'm no machinist, but I have done work on my cars, over the years, so maybe that's an advantage.

As to the "e" clip design, I've owned my saw for 15 years and never had a problem with it---the only problem in changing the arbor assembly is making sure you put the clip back in the right direction and that you've aligned the assembly with the worm gear properly--but once it's together, it's pretty solid.

Actually, if I were to fault a design feature, it would be that tilt mechanism and stops. :eek: :eek:

[psemme]

Here's an update for everyone. I bought a 3650 just a few days ago. I knew about the arbor problem from reading this forum but since I do all my dados with my router I didn't feel it was an issue and I liked everything else about the saw. Even so, I don't like the idea of having a brand new saw with such a major deficiency so I decided to see how "convenient" having the arbor replaced would be. I called Ridgid CS, got someone on the line, told her my problem and within 15 seconds she had read some bulletin (on her computer?) and told me I had two choices:

1 - I could take my saw back to HD for a replacement or refund.
2 - I could take it to a "service center" for repair

She did not offer to send me the part directly, nor did I ask, since I want any work done to be covered under warranty. You may be able to get them to send it to you directly though. I also mentioned to her that taking it back to HD for a replacement was not reasonable because there was no way anyone at HD (at least the one near me) was going to start opening all the table saw boxes in search of a good arbor assembly for me. She then promptly said that I should just get a refund....no sales training obviously. I must say however, that my experience with CS was very pleasant. She was polite, informative and helpful.

As it turns out, there is a service center not far from where I live (eastern Long Island, NY) and I will probably just take it there to have it fixed. Although with all the talk about the new Sears saw I am also going to think about going in that direction too.

Conclusion: It seems that Ridgid's customer service troops have been given the tools to address this issue. Are they sufficient? You'll have to decide. I think it's a shame that a new product like this has such a glaring flaw out of the box. But if you're like me it may not be such a critical problem.

If I decide to take it to the service center I will report back with info on my experience.

Happy New Year,
Peter

[daveferg]

Peter---have to say I would wonder if Ridgid had checked this out with their repair facilities. Every time I go into a similar place, it's a relatively tiny place, with parts racks, old parts, etc., taking up 90% of the floor space. Don't know how happy they're going to be with all those table saws in the back room. ;) and then, of course, how long do they have to wait for the arbors????

Let's just say, if I were to have to disassemble my saw, enough to make it manageble, getting it into my car/truck, and then have to re-assemble it----I'd be real tempted to just take it back to HD. Frankly, from my own experience, it was easier to replace the arbor than all the work to remove the fence, wings, legs etc.

[smashp]

what if the Service center orders the Replacement Arbor, and they replace your flawed Arbor with another flawed arbor.

I called the three service centers in my area and all were clueless to this Problem and Just said, bring it in , we will order the part.


And They all said bring the WHOLE saw into service.

[keith911]

I f i were you smashp i would call ridgid 1-800-4-ridgid get c.s. and ask for larry snyder, the new ones are said not to be flawed ones, did you send in the warrenty card?? i do not think that matters

Keith

[psemme]

Just contacted the service center. They had not been notified that this was a problem by Ridgid. Said "if parts are available" should take a week to ten days to fix. Also said he needs the "whole machine" without the legs. Ugh. I think I'll call Ridgid back and see what they say about parts availability, can they send them to me directly and what does that do to the warranty.

Peter

[psemme]

Just spoke to Ridgid CS. They are shipping me the new arbor tomorrow. The rep actually had it in her hand and told me it was a blessed as a "new one". I'll let you know how it looks when I get it. Does not come with instructions (big surprise). She said they have a few in stock now and more on order for early February. I will reiterate that my experience with their CS department was great.

Peter

[keith911]

Thanks Pete at least you loosend the noose around my neck- i am glad some one else talked to them and got the same story i did last week, yup the instructions bothered me also, but lets see how it looks, I got a freind who took his out already and there is a so called dead spot on it so when see him tuesday i will compare it to the one i got today from ridgid and see if its still has a problem. I will keep you posted okay

Keith

[jhurd]

Well guys i called to talk to Larry Snyder with Ridgid C.S. and i got voice mail and left my cell number. That was around 1:00 PM today, low and behold at about 4:45 PM he called back we talked about C.S. and the arbor problem, and promised to send out one tomorrow UPS. I think they did a pretty good job getting these new ones out. :D

[Woody44]

Over the weekend I sent an e-mail using the Ridgid Technical Services contact site: http://www.ridgid.com/MenuDriver.asp?ParentID=Power-Tools-Service-Centers&Code=PT commenting on the forum discussions about the arbor and requesting a new, corrected arbor. At 9:20 this morning I received a response offering to send me a new arbor and asking for the serial number of my saw, to which I quickly responded.

They did say there were no instructions as this level of service should be done at a service center.

Now it's wait and see. I'll post a message when I have something in hand.

[ 01-03-2005, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: Woody44 ]

[keith911]

Jhurd what did you think of Larry Snyder? nice guy huh!!! he is second in command at c.s. well i think our combined effort is paying off and maybe just maybe Ridgid C.S. is coming full circle, what do you guys think?????, I have a service manual for this saw but i do not know how to post it, maybe my 6yr old little girl does HAHA, at any cost our efforts are working

Keith

[Woody44]

Keith,

How did you get a service manual?

Woody

[keith911]

If you look through this this room or the ASK THE EXPERT room you will find it, I don't know how to send the link here, I'll try though

[Woody44]

Keith,

You can either just type in the link in your message or highlight it, right click and copy and then paste it into your message.

Woody

[keith911]

woody your the one that posted the site sorry about the word manual i mean service sheet, i had a friend blow the specific page up bigger so i can see more clearly and it don't look like that bad a job to do, when we put my friends in i will take pics and notes on how it went, hopefully it will help all of us here

Keith

[Woody44]

Thanks Keith. I was afraid that was what you were referring to. I just got through poking around in the other forums and returned here.

Woody

[jhurd]

Keith,
He was a great guy to talk to and he seems to want nothing more then to see only good comments about Ridgid Customer Service on all the forums out there. I think they could be back on track to supplying the customer service they were known for at one time. We just need to give them a chance. :D

[keith911]

I agree lets give him and Ridgid a chance "everyone was down on chrysler at one time"

Keith

[steelewoodworker]

After reading Woody44's post, I emailed CS last night and received the following reply this morning;


I will have the replacement arbor shipped out today. We recommend that once you receive it, you arrange to have your nearest Ridgid authorized service dealer install it.

T.Clinkscales
Technical Services
OWT Industries
Pretty responsible customer service response in my book :D !

01/05/2005

My new arbor arrived today by UPS.

[ 01-05-2005, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: steelewoodworker ]

[murphyr]

Morning all, I've had the 3650 about a year now and love it. I added folding outfeed table and am in process of adding router table extension.
The only issue I had was with the arbor nut threads. The nut was hard to run on and off had to use wrench to do so. I was just going to run thread chaser over them to see if it would help.
I checked arbor for the step problem but did'nt see any on mine. But because of thread problem I called Ridgid C.S. The lady I spoke to said needed serial# and mail address and new arbor is on it's way. I mentioned the nut, thread issue and she said they would send new nut w/arbor and make shure they were o.k.
First time I called Ridgid and they seemed very pleasant to deal with. Waiting to see what shows up. Hope others will post when they get replacement to see if problem was corrected.
They recomended taking it to service center but none close to me. So if anyone replaces it could you please post how you make out as I will try to change it myself if it is better than my original one. Thanks all, Rick.

[looseknot]

I spoke to CS today and could not reach Larry Snyder. The young lady I spoke to said that this was only the second call she had received on this matter and was not that familiar with it and referred me to tech services. I spoke to Scott and he was familiar with the issue. He suggested I bring the saw to a service center or he would send me a replacement arbor today. He stated that I might be able to tap out the whole shaft but I would need a way of pressing on the bearing. He did state that Ridgid considers this an "upgrade" and does not void the warranty if I replaced the arbor myself. I must say that everyone that I have spoken to were pleasant and tried to be helpful. That does not solve my arbor problem but at least Ridgid is trying to own up to the problem.
If anyone has already changed their arbor out, please post the results. This will be a big help to those of us that need to take on this task.

looseknot

[daveferg]

Well---sounds like they have been at least responsive. From the perspective of the saw's owner's time, dismanteling and later reassembling the saw as well as trying to lift it, is a heck of a lot more work than just changing out the arbor assembly.

I'm in the middle of putting together the steps I took when I did this to my old Craftsman---it's not an answer, but a good place for someone with a 3650 to start and then modify what I wrote. Hope to have it up later today.

[strong330]

Keith-Nice work staying on top of CS.

I tried to get in touch with Larry today to confirm the new arbor distribution, but got voicemail. I'm praying that what you say is correct-that arbors were sent on the 30th due to the fact that I removed mine today in hopes for the new arrival.

If anyone wants a brief description of the removal...keep reading...

I did not have to remove the assembly from the cabinet or tabletop.

Remove the pulley (one allen head setscrew)from the shaft, the key from the keyway (pops right out) and removed the retaining ring from the pulley side of the shaft with a small pair of needlenose plyers. (it's ok to mangle this retaining clip, they should not be re-used- $0.25 at the hardware store for a new one.)

The shaft taps out of the bearings with some light coaxing. Be sure to use a brass punch (or a block of wood so the shaft's end is not peened over-it won't fit through the bearings that way!) If the bearing on the blade side of the shaft removes itself with the shaft, it needs to be tapped off in a vice, ect.

Seriously 5-10 minutes with little mechanical ability required. (we all should have some being TS3650 owners!)

So, my saw sits disassembled-awaiting the new arbor. Come on Rigid, I'm waiting!

[ 01-04-2005, 02:20 PM: Message edited by: strong330 ]

[looseknot]

Thanks, Strong330. From your description, it doesn't sound like too big a deal to remove the arbor. Now if reassemly is as simple, we'll be golden. The guy I spoke to this morning described the disassembly just as you did. Looks like we're all on the same page.

Thanks again.

looseknot

[daveferg]

OK---here's the method to replace the entire arbor assembly---which I would hope is what they're sending out. Personally, I don't have the know-how or tools to replace bearings, so this is what I did. Feel free to use and modify to fit any particular quirks of the 3650---from what I could see in the drawings, it's pretty similar to my old Craftsman.

Good luck
______________

Arbor Assembly Replacement

Part of this information is from Gary Mc, who used to hang out over on Woodnet, and part is what I learned from replacing the arbor. Remember this was on a Craftsman saw, but there appear to be a lot of similarities between the designs.

These are more like hints than specific directions and may save you some time.

Before you disconnect the saw, you’ll need to cut some cribbing----a couple of 2x4s or the like that can sit on the lips of the case, underneath the saw. The saw assembly is heavy and you have to handle it at an awkward angle. You might also see if you have some scrap to place across the cribbing, to almost touch the bottom of the saw yoke (wedges)---you’ll see why later.

Also, be sure to study the parts/assembly diagram for this part of the saw, so you know how things go together.

Label or tape all your parts in proper orientation. There are some retaining rings and sprung washers that must go back in the same way they came out.

First, I did this work with the saw assembly out of the table. It’s much easier and involves less skinned knuckles.

Remove the motor and yoke in one assembly after taking off the belt.

It’s best to crank blade as low as it can go. Remove the blade, and DC shroud.

Remove the tilt and height shaft handles and locking lever.

If you can see where the bevel pointer screws on—take it off otherwise bend it up slightly to clear the slot opening. The bevel shaft has an attachment to the cabinet that must be removed.

Start to loosen your entire front and rear trunion bolts. Sometimes the front trunion bolts are easier to reach by reaching under the front of the saw cabinet.

Install your cribbing so you don’t drop the saw assembly. You want the front trunion loose but still in place.

Take off the rear trunion, while holding on to the rear of the saw assembly----reach in and slide the front tab of the assembly out of the front trunion.

You should have some scrap wood, sheet goods on top of the saw table and place the assembly on top----Be careful not to bend the bevel shaft until you can separate it from the assembly.

You access the arbor assembly from the left side (as you stand at the front of the saw). Lay it on it’s right---you might want to take a couple of pictures.

Make reference marks with a Sharpie pen or the like, of how the arbor assembly is set relative to the saw assembly.

Start to remove fasteners that hold the assembly in place---be sure to note the orientation, particularly any “e” or spring washers you find---these are critical.

Take the time to clean and lubricate the points----I used graphite, and know everyone has their favorites.

Before re-assembling, take a close look at the two arbor assemblies----if the new one has protrusions along the edge, this could affect the travel of the saw blade (raising/lowering). A little filing on any “nubs” will save time later.

Re-assemble, taking your time and referring to any pictures, drawings you’ve used. You may have to turn the height shaft while pressing the arbor assembly down to get it to lock in to the gear---that’s why pictures help to see how it fit before. Remember your orientation marks.

Now, before replacing the saw assembly, if you want, with all the guts out of the saw, now’s a good time to check table flatness and do any cleaning with solvent, Simple Green, etc.

Also---now is a great time to check the flatness of the trunion feet and where they meet up with the underside of the saw---any little defect or nub can drive you nuts when tightening the bolts and the alignment moves on you. I used a sanding block on the underside of the saw and a piece of sandpaper on the top of the table and moved the trunions back and forth to flatten their feet.

Re-assemble with the front trunion in place, but kind of loose----rear trunion and parts within easy reach of the rear of the saw.

You might want to have someone give you a hand----before you install the rear trunion, you have to get the bevel and height adjustment shafts into place, at the same time the front of the saw assembly is slid into the front trunion.

Once you have this, it helps to use some blocks or wedges against the cribbing to help support the assembly while you place on the rear trunion (with the rear of the saw assembly in the slot), as you are trying to find the boltholes.

Leave all the trunion bolts finger tight and re-assembly the shafts and wheels and check that they move freely. Trunions should be as tight as possible—but just able to be moved my hand slightly.

Re-assembly the motor mount, align pulleys before you attempt re-aligning the saw blade---install shroud and a good flat blade.

You should still be able to move the trunions by hand----do a rough alignment of the blade parallel to the slot---also be sure that the blade clears the insert opening---adjust as needed---

Then, alternating tightening trunion bolts---

If you run into one of those situations where you can’t get good alignment with just the rear trunion---remember, if you have the front loosened, leave the bevel lock, locked and nudge the bevel wheel, which will then move the front trunion----much easier than trying to move it by hand.

Then, once aligned with the table---you’ll have to re-check your bevel stops, etc., re-check pulley alignment.

Before powering up, just move the blade by hand to be sure it’s not restricted.

Start making sawdust.

[keith911]

nice job there Dave-- THANK YOU

Keith

[strong330]

WOW! Sounds like a project.

I would not imagine that the entire assembly will be sent out.

[strong330]

Just a quick update:

Larry from Rigid just returned my call (yes he does exist). According to him, my replacement arbor, with the problem supposedely fixed, shipped out yesterday.

Sounds like only people that request replacements through CS will receive them. He said that he has received about five calls to date.

Additionally, it is the shaft only that is being shipped, according to the now famous Larry.

Hope the new ones look good! (I'll keep you posted) Thanks to Larry, and good luck replacing everyone.

[daveferg]

Shaft only----that figures----so glad I wrote all that stuff up. :mad: :mad: :mad:

Just a guestimet, but I'd say it would still be easier to take in the arbor assembly to the service center than the whole saw.

[Chuck01835]

I just got off the phone with Larry. I did not ask for him directly, but when CS asked their supervisor about the problem resolution, Larry took it upon himself to take the call directly.
He took my info and will ship the part out immediately. I can attempt the upgrade myself or at my decision, I can bring the saw or just the arbor assembly down to a Ridgid service center to press on the bearings. This is a completely acceptable fix to a saw which otherwise I have been totally satisfied with. MORE IMPORTANTLY, This experience has completely turned around my opinion of Ridgid Customer Service Dep't and company. Please remember, any company, every company, makes mistakes and has problems with one product or another. The more important indication as to the company's quality, is how they handle the problems. Ridgid and Larry Snyder's handling of this problem has restored my faith in the company and its products. To all who've been involved in this, Sawdust Steve, Keith, Strong330, John from FWW, and others, Thanks!.

Chuck

[keith911]

thank you chuck, glad they are turning around at cs and i agree that every co. has its problems, just glad its all working out for all of us

Keith

[strong330]

Well everyone...my new arbor arrived today. (don't ask me why, they said it shipped yesterday! overnight delivery?)

It looks like they've extended the flat threads all the way to the shoulder. The threads are the same diameter as the shoulder and the void is gone!

I installed it a few minutes ago and made a perfect test cut. Rigid pulled through!! They really deserve credit here. That was one quick turnaround for a design change. Although initially, the customer service folks should have been a bit more up to speed, they really pulled through in the end. Sure beats lugging that 300lb saw back to the Depot! Hapy dado-ing!

I have a nice pic of the arbor, but not sure how to post it.

[daveferg]

Strong---the man who started it all---congrats! Bet you could get a temp. job traveling around the country installing arbors. ;)

[strong330]

Thanks Dave! You got a LOL out of me!!!

[looseknot]

Way to go, Strong!!! ;) I should get mine tomorrow at that rate. Did you have any problems putting the new shaft on the bearings? Thanks for your efforts.

looseknot

[looseknot]

Daveferg,
That was a great piece of work you did describing the arbor assembly replacement.I hope I dont need to use it and just replace the shaft like Strong did but I'm sure gonna print and save it for future reference. Thanks a lot for all your imputs.

looseknot

[daveferg]

Thanks Looseknot---from one of my favorite places--- Feel free to share the procedure---not saying it works on every saw. Your results may vary. ;)

[strong330]

Honestly, the most difficult part is getting the external retaining ring off of the shaft (and the new one on). Just involves a little patience. Also, doing this without removing the assembly from the table makes it a bit tougher.

The bearings are not a big deal at all. There are 2 raised areas on the shaft that seat the two bearing races where it is a snug fit for about 1/2". They do tap right out though. The side of a smaller hammer with a thin block of wood is perfect. (lots of small hits!)

Most important words of advice; don't peen the end of the shaft!

[steelewoodworker]

Here is the picture of the new arbor strong330 mentioned compared to the old shown by Sawdust Steve in an earlier post;

http://bellsouthpwp.net/w/a/wa4qin/pix/newvsoldarbor.JPG

[ 03-07-2005, 05:29 PM: Message edited by: steelewoodworker ]

[imported_LarryBoy]

Now that several of you have replaced the defective arbor, do any of you have a picture of the defect, and if so, could you post it here? It woud be a big help. Thank you.

[strong330]

It has already been posted, either further back in this thread, or in the other thread in "ask the experts". Can't remember which.

[Woody44]

Sent an e-mail on Sunday. Replied to a request for the serial number on Monday. Received an e-mail on Tuesday that the arbor was shipping that day. Received the new part today at 5:30.

The threads run all the way to the 5/8" shoulder so there should be no problem with narrow dado chippers.

[Sawdust Steve]

Way to go, you guys! Guess I need to call Larry or someone in CS. I have not been contacted that they are sending me a new arbor yet.

[imported_FlyFishNC]

ok, so i removed my arbor and the dang blade-side bearing came out with it. i was unable to get the bearing off of the old arbor shaft and had to order a new one... i tried a few things and messed up my workbench and my bearing. my question is, well there's two of them.
1. how can i keep the pulley-side bearing in when i get a new bearing for the blade-side? i've thought about clamping the pulley to it while i'm tapping the arbor back in?

2. does anyone know where i can pick a bearing that will fit this arbor? i've ordered one from ridgid (and it's on backorder for 2-3 weeks). i'd like to get going on the saw before then if possible.

so, i'm out of commission until i can fix my mishap.

[strong330]

Bearing Specialty (508-798-2222) will send them right to your house, they know bearings and are very helpful. Be sure to tell them the application too. They are very inexpensive. Just give them the p/n from the old ones. I had the same problem with the bearing staying on the shaft (on the blade side) I got it off in the vice and a steel plate with a hole in it to pound it through. The pulley side bearing should stay in place when the shaft is re-inserted. If it comes out a little, just tap it back in once the shaft is back in. Good luck!

[strong330]

I forgot to mention, as you found out Mr. FlyFish, bearings need to be supported as much as possible as not to damage them. They need to be installed and removed perfectly square, with support on the inner and outer rings if possible. Two flat plates slid between the bearing and the (blade side) shaft flare and sitting on the vice should do it to tap them out.

[threefinger]

Just replaced the new arbor in my 3650 this week end. This was not a problem at all. It took patience. Checked measurments with the new arbor and also checked sawn parts. Everything was .005 or better. I also cross braced the legs on the left and right side. This did a world of good for stability. E-mail and I would like to help if I can.

[rgrady]

Just finished changing the arbor on my saw. Everything was going well in spite of the tight room tapping the arbor out. Inner bearing came out with arbor. Used a spider gear puller to get it off the shaft. Tapped bearing back into hole. Started tapping shaft in. Got it almost all the way in when the outer bearing started to move out. It came out about 1/4" when arbor was seated all the way. Went to tap the outer bearing back in and that is when the see-saw game started. When I tapped the outer in, looked at iner it had cam out about 1/4". Made wood blocks to fit over arbor on both ends at tried tapping on both sides at the same time(figured out real quick that I am not a contortionist). Got things to a point where I coulk see about half of the retaining ring groove. Then see-sawed that final amount for about an hour with no succes. Finnally went and bought a 4" "C" clamp. It was small enough to fit in the space and apply pressure to both bearings at once. SUCCESS!!!. Did final assembly and check alignment. All that banging Knocked it out but it re-aligned easy. If I had to do it again I think I would take the assembly out of the saw. Looked like it was just 1 "E" clip, back the height adlustment off and it would just slip right off the pin. FUN AND GAMES DOWN ON THE FARM!!!!

[strong330]

Another successful swap! That's what we like to see!

[Sawdust Steve]

Just a comment here on our never-ending "Arbor Thread"! I received my new arbor at my office, just a few days after requesting it. I have not seen it, but my mail room emailed to let me know it was there.

As others have stated in these forums, I'd like to give OWT/RIDGID some credit for what has actually been a fast response to a problem ONCE THEY WERE FULLY AWARE OF IT. I also give kudos to Strong, Keith and many others who have been involved with helping the other members of the forum with advice and/or for contacting RIDGID. When you consider what a manufacturer has to go through to actually produce a corrected part under these circumstances, their turnaround was very good.

Much of the content of these forums is political and/or philosophical. Much of it is just good old-fashioned how-to help for the others. Some is pro-RIDGID; some is not. One thing is for sure: It's all good.

I, for one, hope that OWT takes the ball and runs with it. I look forward to new and better products in the future, including a better bandsaw. I look forward to responsive and timely customer service. Personally, I am very happy with my TS3650 saw and TP1300 thickness planer. I think I am finally getting the 6010 jointer this weekend.

Thanks again to all. This is agreat forum, and I hope I can do my share to return what I have borrowed here.

Steve

[ 01-15-2005, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Sawdust Steve ]

[steelewoodworker]

Ditto "Sawdust Steve"

Jerry smile.gif

[keith911]

Hey steve thanks for the kudo's, And just to let you all know, if you guys decide to put the arbor in yourself, it will not void anything- Ridgid considers it an upgrade, they do however recommend taking it to a service center.I put mine in myself, it was not bad at all if you have a little mechanical ability, awhile back Daveferg posted a good step by step guide to installing it, I did it without any guidence at all but did glance at what dave wrote from time to time and although I do not see eye to eye with dave all the time he was pretty much right on the money THANK YOU DAVEFERG and if you did that from memory dave you did awesome

[keith911]

sorry guys one more thing, I do give ridgid credit for getting this issue resolved except for the fact that they should have sent instructions also ans a new nut, i look forward to better cs from them

[Jeff2005]

So given the isses with replacing the arbor, how soon do you all think the "improved" arbor will be showing up on new 3650s? I'd hate to buy one knowing it has a defect that will be fixed soon.

[Anne]

Well everyone, the arbor problem has also been noticed in our new TS3650. We've contacted RIDGID tech support and she told us that they had ordered a lot of new arbors and that we were to contact them in about 2 to 3 weeks. She (tech) told us that the local RIDGID repair place in our area would receive new arbors for those that needed them and that she would advise us of when they arrived.

Should we be cautious that this will is a deferral of the issue until the 90 day return warranty is up or do we hope we have been taken care of by RIDGID?

[Karsten]

Anne,
I don't think you have to be worried because 1. I had my saw for over 6 months and just received my new arbor free of charge and 2. even if it was a deferral (which I don't think) as long as you contacted them within the 90 days it doesn't matter how long it takes them.
On another note everybody, my arbor was sent to me by Ryobi. Is the TS3650 made by Ryobi? I always thought that Ryobi made low budget tools.

[steelewoodworker]

Anne,

I believe you will be taken care of by RIDGID. After emailing them for my new arbor, it arrived a couple of days later. In addition, it would help me to have one of those exploded views of the saw and I emailed CS and requested one. They responded with the diagram the next day. Since then, lots of folks have emailed or contacted them for replacement arbors and RIDGID seems to be standing up to the problem. I can imagine their immediate supply has gotten low hence the 2 to 3 week delay now.

You can check another thread on this forum and find where several of us reported we were sent new arbors and some of these folks have already replaced theirs.

Welcome to the forum!

Jerry

[Sawdust Steve]

Many parts do come from what shows up as the Ryobi Warehouse, Karsten. Ryobi does not own RIDGID, nor vice versa. Several of the companies use common parts, and farm out their manufacturing to other companies. For example, the Emerson Electric unit known as RIDGID actually has the stationary tools like the 3650 made for them, and lend their RIDGID name to the product. One World Technologies (OWT) makes the saw (has most of it made in Taiwan, I believe, or Mainland China). OWT also manufacturers for Ryobi, if memory serves me correctly.

On a similar note, I recently bought a "Jenn-Aire" stainless steel outdoor gas grill. There is really nothing Jenn-Aire about it, except that they lend their name to it. This is becoming a very common practice in manufacturing, especially with woodworking equipment. I'm not sure how involved Emerson (RIDGID) gets in creating specs for the manufacture of their products like the 3650 or if they make quality control minimum requirements on the items they farm out. It is in their interest to do so, however, as it carries their name.

[daveferg]

Steve---sorry, but you're wrong----the same company owns Ryobi and produces Ridgid tools under license from Emerson---Emerson doesn't make one Ridgid ww'ing tool any more.

[Sawdust Steve]

Now that I think about it, you are correct, Dave. OWT's parent company, Techtronic Industries (http://www.tti.com.hk) , now has under its belt RIDGID, Ryobi, Homelite, Dirt Devil and Regina, and recently completed the acquisition of Milwaukee.

My bad.

[imported_maineman]

This is just to add to the explanations by strong330 for changing arbor without dissambling nor rolling over the saw.

Some detail will seem too obvious to some but are included for the benefit of those less mech-inclined. The change out really is less difficult than some have made it out to be.

You work from the back of the saw.

Remove the blade guard assemblies, including the mounting post. You have to realign this when done.

Remove the dust shroud cover.
Remove blade. Duh.

Remove the belt. Tilt motor up and slip belt off pulleys.

Cranking the carriage all the way down (lowest blade position) and cranking the bevel all the way over, gives all the room you will need.

Remove the Arbor pulley set screw.
Wriggle the pulley off, (it's tight) being sure to catch the small hidden keyway key piece which catches slot in end of arbor.

Remove the retaining ring.
My retaining ring was a snap ring (had holes for use with snap ring pliers. I bought the snap ring pliers. Got a decent Set with 2 angle pryers tips and large and small straight pryer tips for $10 at VIP autoparts.)(Or HD carries 2 single tip models. $20 for either one, both larger than you need for this job.)
Otherwise you can twist ring off like strong330 did and replace it with a new one. Mine was only a little bent so I flattened it out with vice, needle nosed, and hammer. It does have to be right on the money flat though. You'll want/need full snap-in engagement in the arbor groove. When you get to putting on the new ring, snap ring pliers help you get it on without twisitng it. Also. So when inserting new arbor - you'll be making sure all saw dust/grease/crud is cleaned from bearing face on the arbro flange end, else that slot for the ring on the new arbor might not get fully exposed. Something I might have done real easy normally. You just don't want to have to whack the new arbor back out and reclean, just to get the cleaner fit for the ring.

Back to Removing old arbor:
You do not need a brass punch. I used the plasitc handle on a good Craftsman 14" screwdriver which had a wide enough flat face on one side of the handle. Started with a 1 lb. ballpeen but eventually found that lighter blows with the side of a 3 lb. hammer worked better, plenty clearance for backswing. Held the screwdriver handle in horizontally, Reached underneath with the sledge.
"Light coaxing" I guess is a relative description.
With the sledge and hammer handle just work your way up till it starts to move. I guess it's coaxing but it's more than "tapping".

Apparently some had probs with the bearing coming loose so once you get the arbor moving, stop and take a look at the Bearing seated on the other end. Mine stayed put. Praise be!

As you get arbor most of the way out you can crank the saw carriage bevel back some to give yourself more clearance at the flange end of the arbor. Nobody said Ridgid's asking for old arbors back but I didn't want to shoot and ding it - might be handy if you ever need a machine shop to copy you a 1/4" longer arbor.

Once you crank back for clearance you can go for sledging it past the other bearing. Sledge allows for being gentler actually. You don't have to wail on it. But now the arbor end is hidden. If you have a wide enough brass punch fine, otherwise a 3" (up to 6") 5/16" bolt works okay if you wrap some masking tape around it several times to protect bearings.

Finally just crank the bevel all the way back up square, drop some 3-in-One on the new arbor and have at it again with the sledge. Load snap ring onto pliers, squeeze and she'll slide right over the end of new arbor, and down into the arbor ring slot.

Now follow OEM manual procedure for setting up motor and belt. Don't just slap the belt on there and go 'cause your arbor pulley position may be different now.

When running smooth do the blade, dust shroud and blade guard mounting.

[imported_maineman]

Sorry. Above post was pasted into the wrong thread.

Was written for another thread about current corrected arbor replacement obviously.

IMO this thread should continue in earnest with trying to get this Dado Sets Issue resolved with similar success.

Should be noted here that if they were to eventually be persuaded to go with a longer arbor for the 3650, they might also have to come up with a modification or replacement for the dust shroud as there isn't a lot of clearance there now for swapping any blade in or out. Plenty of room on the backside (outside) however for such a dust shroud modification.

[Thomas Puzio]

what's the best method for ensuring tbe pulley-side bearing stays in place as you insert the new arbor shaft?

Is there a website that has the bearings for the TS650? I live in Los Angeles fyi. I need a new one cause i ruined one taking out the old arbor.

[steelewoodworker]

Thomas,

Dont know if you are aware that you can order parts from Ridgid Parts (http://www.ridgidparts.com/) or not, but if not, here it is.

:mad: Well, should have tried my suggestion before suggesting it. Seems for some reason they do not list the 3650 on the web page I provided. I have a parts diagram and the bearings are Ridgid part number HJ032000 but could not get info on them from web page either. Guess you could call Ridgid at 1-866-539-1710 and ask them about it. If you do, ask them why they do not show it on their web site for parts ordering.

Jerry

[ 07-31-2005, 08:35 AM: Message edited by: steelewoodworker ]

[Thomas Puzio]

i'll have to wait till monday, they're closed

[acemery]

I f i were you smashp i would call ridgid 1-800-4-ridgid get c.s. and ask for larry snyder, the new ones are said not to be flawed ones, did you send in the warrenty card?? i do not think that matters
Keith,
Copied from the header on your post: 01-03-2005, 05:06 PM.

I bought mine on 02-16-2006. It has a manufacturing date of late (October, I think) 1995. I checked the date before I bought the saw, expecting that the problem had been resolved by then. Lo and behold, it has the faulty arbor too. In addition, the table surface is nowhere near flat. When the saw first starts it makes this rattling sound for a second or so before smothing out. I am mucho pi55ed about this. :mad:

Ridgid has a serious case of HUA. They need to bend over as far as they can, grab their ears and pull their heads out.

I'm so mad and disgusted, I could call Larry Snider and swear a blue streak. I won't do this though, because it wouldn't accomplish anything but create hostility.

I feel like pushing them to deliver a new saw to my house and set it up. He77, I did it the first time expecting to have a machine that measured up to all the rave reviews I'd read about it on this and numerous other fora.

Oh well, ca ca pasa.

Al

[kmw]

acemery,

I did not have an arbor problem with the TS3650, but I did have problems with table flatness. In the end I returned the saw because I did not want to wait for Ridgid to send another top. Now I am saving for a Craftsman 22124. You never know ....... even with high end tools it seems that you can get a bad top. Just for your info Ridgid told me their table flatness tolerance was
.016 . You can get a new top from Ridgid if you don't mind waiting. I decided the go Craftsman because just about wherever you live there is a Sears repair center around the corner.... just my 2 cents.

ps. i also bought the ts3650 because of the great reviews...... live and learn

kmw