Need some advice on how to avoid scorch marks

[Rstjean]

I recently purchased a Ridgid TS3660 and it has performed marvelously thus far. Today while ripping some 5 foot long 3/4" thick oak boards I find that I'm getting some pretty serious scorch marks along the one face of the boards, actually smoking as I push them through. Since my plan is to edge glue a number of these oak boards together, I've been advised that these boards do not hold glue well. I've purchased a brand new RIDGID R1060, 60 tooth Titanium coated FINITION blade for the job. Does anyone have a solution as to what my problem might be?? Is it the blade?? I've been told that to edge glue boards that I need a smooth cut and a combination blade works best, what I thought I had put on. Any advice as to how to correct this problem would be greatly appreciated before I cut any more boards.:confused:

New guy from northern Canada,RSJ

[cpw]

If you're getting scorching it could be a bunch of things. One is if your feed rate is too slow, another is if your fence/blade are not quite parallel or the wood itself is closing in on the blade. Do you have the splitter on?

If you have an appropriate hand plane and patience you can clean up the edges, better for gluing than a saw.

[Frankiarmz]

How much wood have you run through that blade? Recently doesn't tell us enough about the volume of wood cut or type. Process of elimination,can you afford another blade? Getting much kickback? Did problem start prior to new blade install? Did you check new blade ?

[Rstjean]

As far as I can tell everything is parallel, runs plywood through without much problem and the splitter is on and I can't seem to push the wood through much faster then what I'm currently doing. The blade is pretty well new, hardly any material run through it, some 1/2" to 3/4" plywood and not much of that. I've had a Freud blade on my Craftman before purchasing this RIDGID and I had that blade on for at least 10 years with no sharpening and it still cuts better then this one. Been doing some more reading in this forum and thought that perhaps I need more of a ripping blade for this task. Not getting any kickback but you can feel the force pushing back though.

[cpw]

As far as I can tell everything is parallel, runs plywood through without much problem and the splitter is on and I can't seem to push the wood through much faster then what I'm currently doing. The blade is pretty well new, hardly any material run through it, some 1/2" to 3/4" plywood and not much of that. I've had a Freud blade on my Craftman before purchasing this RIDGID and I had that blade on for at least 10 years with no sharpening and it still cuts better then this one. Been doing some more reading in this forum and thought that perhaps I need more of a ripping blade for this task. Not getting any kickback but you can feel the force pushing back though.
If you are getting force back at you, it could be the wood is trying to close up. Are the pieces you get out straight?

[Rstjean]

Yep, they were coming out straight, splitter was working fine. I haven't run solid oak through this saw before and these boards are definitely denser then the plywood I've been pushing through.

[MarkSJohnson]

And you've checked the alignment of fence to blade?

[VASandy]

This appears to be a situation that calls for a dedicated rip blade. My two favorite blades are Forrest Woodworker II and Freud series. The Freud LU87R010 24-tooth 10" dedicated Rip Blade is selling for $39.99 on Amazon. The Freud LM74R010 30-tooth 10" glue line rip blade is $69. I think the LM74 would be a good choice for that oak.

I've been ripping some barn oak and I have to use the Forrest WWII blade. That old oak is hard as can be! The WWII blade goes through it just fine, although I still get a minimum of dark marks. Not really scorching, but there's just a bit of blade mark left on the cut. That oak is the hardest thing I've yet run through the saw, and it is doing a very good job with the WWII blade.

The blade I have is the Forrest WWII 10"x30-tooth 1/8" kerf. It's running around $95 at Amazon.

[Tom W]

Try to cut a board 1/4 - 1/2" wider than your final cut. Then reset your saw to the final cut width. If the board still binds there is an alignment problem between the fence and the blade or the fence and the splitter. If the board goes through without binding there is a good chance the wood was pinching the blade.

How is your fence set? I have mine set so the back of the fence is a touch wider than the front.

Try installing a featherboard ahead of the blade to keep the board against the fence.

I take my splitter and blade guard off often. And because I am often less than careful the splitter gets knocked out of alignment. I used to try to realign the splitter with a square but now I loosen the bolts on the splitter and start a board through it. Then I lift the anti-kickback pawls, pull the board back out and tighten the bolts.

Tom

[BadgerDave]

this appears to be a situation that calls for a dedicated rip blade. .....

+1

It could also be that you need to adjust your feed rate a little.

[hewood]

That blade and saw combination should cut 3/4" oak without issue. Is the wood dried, flat and straight? Is the blade clean?

The R1060 does have Freud's new double side grind which helps give a polished edge. If all is not quite right with the alignment, feedrate, etc, that "burnished" edge can become a "burned" edge with this type of blade. If all else fails, switch to a lower tooth count blade.

[darius]

+1

The GlueLine blade from Freud is amazing. What a difference! I got the 30T.

Tom's suggestions is also very good. This is what I do myself. I noticed that ripping through the middle of the board give more burn marks then just shaving off an itsy bit.

[hewood]

+1

The GlueLine blade from Freud is amazing. What a difference! I got the 30T.

Tom's suggestions is also very good. This is what I do myself. I noticed that ripping through the middle of the board give more burn marks then just shaving off an itsy bit.

Note that Freud has a new thin kerf version of the popular LM74R010 30T Glue Line Ripper out...the LM75R010.

[Rstjean]

Thanks all, I'll try all of those suggestions and take a closer look at how the board goes through saw but from what I've investigated thus far the splitter is perfectly aligned, I've been using a featherboard in advance of the blade, I'll have to recheck the alignment of the fence and see how that works. I think I'll also invest in dedicated rip blade or the glue line ripper as I still think that is part of the problem.

[FINER9998]

how high is the blade? when ripping stock, the top of the material, when flat on the table, should not be higher than the mid point of a blade tooth at the highest point of travel. this insures that the blade cuts through the wood, rather like scissors cut through paper. blade height too high, combined with misaligned fence, misaligned splitter and excessive feed rate will almost always result in less than optimum cuts.

[Rstjean]

I will have to order a Freud LM74M010 as I can't purchase anything like that locally but does anyone know difference between the Perma-Shield version and the Silver-Ice version? The Silver-Ice version is $30 cheaper then the Perma-Shield and for the write-up there is no difference

[billie_bob]

RSTJean,
A 60 tooth count blade is probably not the best ripping blade out there. Your 60 tooth blade is a good blade for cross cutting or cutting verneered plywood; however, for your table saw, you may want to try a 1/2 kerf ripping blade (24 tooth or less). The 24 tooth should to the job and leave a decent glueing surface.

Hope things work out for you.

tgomez

[Spinalzo]

how high is the blade? when ripping stock, the top of the material, when flat on the table, should not be higher than the mid point of a blade tooth at the highest point of travel. this insures that the blade cuts through the wood, rather like scissors cut through paper. blade height too high, combined with misaligned fence, misaligned splitter and excessive feed rate will almost always result in less than optimum cuts.


Had the same occurence when I went to the Ridgid blade - it's designed to cut down on the amount of sanding after the cut. The width of the teeth are almost exactly the width of the rest of the blade. I found that I had to adjust the blade height as Finer9998 has suggested. Work a couple of pieces at slightly different heights and you'll find the correct one. I have a Ryobi BT3100 and it's a lesser saw than what you are using, but with the oak it was burning with that blade and splitter/riving knife was working effectively. Wasn't the fence or anything else, but the height of the blade - as too high and it wanted to polish the wood instead of cutting it. Good blade though and accurate cuts.

[hewood]

I will have to order a Freud LM74M010 as I can't purchase anything like that locally but does anyone know difference between the Perma-Shield version and the Silver-Ice version? The Silver-Ice version is $30 cheaper then the Perma-Shield and for the write-up there is no difference

IMO, the Permashield is not worth even close to a $30 premium.

[BadgerDave]

imo, the permashield is not worth even close to a $30 premium.
+1

[Rstjean]

Re: Rip Fence on TS3650 Great site, found this writeup and after checking my fence alignment discovered that my fence was very slightly narrowed at the back, made these minor adjustments. Tested it by ripping some hardmaple and definitely went through much easier, just had some minor scorching at those spots where I paused. Still think I'll get me that 30 tooth Glue Line Rip blade from Freud though. Thought I'd share this, just one more thing to look into went trying to figure out a problem.:):):)


Yes no problem sharing how I fixed it well I unloosend the 4 bolts as showin in picture below and just adjusted it a bit and tightend it. And lucky me It fixed it:) now it rips perfectly straight. Hopefully this helps someone else.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8097/ridgidripfenceclose.gif