View Full Version : Using veneer on risers
lns2119
03-12-2009, 01:44 PM
Our stairbuilder 'forgot' to place new risers over the old risers when redoing the treads. After finishing the treads, he placed 10 mm veneer strips on the risers. He didn't prep the risers - just used 3M double sided tape to affix the veneers to the risers. We had intended to paint the risers. I am concerned that the veneers will not hold up as I was told that it was not recommended for high traffic areas. He did not use any finishing nails to insure the venner would stay in place. Am I crazy - or is this the acc3pted way of covering the risers?
mustang09
03-12-2009, 01:52 PM
sounds to me like he made a bif opps and now to cover his tracks and save $$$$$$ he has done this to save time and money as I said . I would not accept this . If you have paid the bill I would ask nicely for him to come back and do the work properly and if he refuses than he in my books is not very reputable !!!!! :shocked:
Pipestone Kid
03-12-2009, 03:27 PM
You are only crazy if you paid him!
lns2119
03-12-2009, 06:33 PM
Thanks for the response - No we didn't pay him - yet I am feeling guilty.
Now trying to figure out how to resolve the problem as the old risers need to be refaced. Any suggestions?
Pipestone Kid
03-12-2009, 06:49 PM
A pic would help. A lot easier to come up with a response when you can see the problem.
lns2119
03-13-2009, 07:30 AM
Looking at a picture, you would think everything looks great. Problem is, the contractor used a veneer to cover the riser. He did not prep the old unpainted riser - just 'peeled and sticked the veneer onto the riser...no contact cement, no sealent..didn't even sand. Although it looks good now, I can't imagine this holding up painted for more than 6 months if I am lucky. Just wanted to know, if we remove the venner ( it just peels right off), take off the finishing molding around the treads ( he won't remove the treads), nail 1/4 inch poplar or birch board on top of the risers and then painted then...will that give us a better end result? What problems would I be creating by trying to resolve this problem?
VASandy
03-13-2009, 07:43 AM
With 1/4 material, I'd be worried about painting. If you do only one side, you could get a lot of warp, which might pull the material away. It'd be worse on the stuck-on veneer no doubt! You can paint both sides of the 1/4" material then apply it and touch up where you have to shoot brads, if they are visible.
Pipestone Kid
03-13-2009, 08:58 AM
If you use 1/4" birch plywood, glue the back with a good construcion adhesive and then brads, you should be fine.
Andy_M
03-13-2009, 12:54 PM
>> "...he placed 10 mm veneer strips..."
10 mm is pretty thick - about 3/8 inch. Not normally what I call "veneer". Is it solid wood or ply? If it's solid wood, you have to be sure that the grain direction on the new is the same as the grain direction on the old.
They use peel'n'stick veneer to reface kitchen cabinets, but it's much thinner. This seems to work ok, but they also sand the cabinet first... and material this thick is a different story.
I wouldn't trust any solution without prepping the surface, and the tape solution... well, that's not going to cut it in any case. Personally I would pull the risers off, sand, and then use contact cement or construction adhesive as previously mentioned.
Your solution using nails will be better than what your guy did with the peel'n'stick & no prep work, but I agree completely with Pipestone and would use adhesive.
Good luck,
Andy
Wood_Junkie
03-13-2009, 01:20 PM
Use both!
Construction adhesive / epoxy on the back, and a few nails to hold it in place. 6 should do the trick for permanent installation:
1 in each corner, and 1 near the top and bottom, centered in the width.
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