Tell me this isn't what I think it is Jake, PLEASE!!!

[Dutch]

I finally got my table saw completely assembled and dialed in. Today my Tootsie and I decided we'd take on a small project just to play a bit with the saw and give her a chance to learn some stuff. We planed down some woood,(Thank You for your suggestions on my sniping problem!! Working great now!!) Got it all planed to 3/8" and we were going to rip the stock down to make some small drawers. We fired up the 2424 and proceded to rip the oak down. At first cut, I noticed a bit of vibration as the board went through, and thought little of it. I only had about 7 boards and noticed the problem on all of them. Since they were all rough on the edges, I thought maybe that was my problem. After running them all through for the first pass, I started running the second side, and noticed that even though I now had a good straight side. I thought that maybe I had a bad tooth on my blade, so I unplugged and pulled the switch key to inspect the blade. HUH? No bad tooth. Suspecting that maybe the collar had something under it causing it to wabble, I removed the blade, cleaned both collars and re-installed the blade. With a straight edge I rotated the blade slowly by hand I checked it for wabble. I found that six teeth on the blade were touching and then the rest of the blade does not. When I purchased the saw I also got an 80 tooth Freud blade. I figured that the blade must have just been out of round.
After replacing the blade with the also new 80 blade, I went back to checking this blade. Again, I used a straight edge and rotated this blade by hand checkng to see if it cured the problem. Guess what!! 12 teeth rubbed this time. Now I'm worried!! After seeing this, I suspect that maybe I have a problem with the arbor. I removed the blade and plugged back in. I bumped the switch on and off to see if there was any visable wabbling in the shaft as it slowed, and now I have another problem. I can now here a ticking noise coming from the saw. I bumped the switch on and off again, and still the same. I had my wife turn on the switch while I searched out the source of the ticking, and found it to be the motor. It sounds as though there is a bad bearing in it. I took off the belt and checked to see if it still made the noise. It doesn't!!
As soon as I let the motors weight rest, the ticking comes back. As near as I can tell, it probably isn't the best idea to use the saw. I have used my uncles 2424, and this is not the way his cuts, or sounds. Have I done something wrong? I even checked the belt to see if maybe there was a problem with the grooves. Everything seems normal. I also noticed that as I was turning the blade by hand, there seemed to be some kind of intermitant binding. HELP!!!!! Anyone have suggestions? :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Big Johnson]

Dutch,
I will throw a few ideas out first for you to check before others like Jake get into more detail. First, as far as the motor and belt ticking goes. You might want to find a very narrow and very straight, straight edge and make sure your pulleys are truly aligned. This is very critical in reducing vibration and could eliminate your trouble. It took me a couple of tries to get it dead on… Its time well spent.
Next with your having 6 to 12 teeth touching between different blades. I would really look to loosening all 6 bolts under the saw and aligning it with the top left miter slot. This is something that is very critical too. It has taken me and many others on this site 2 or 3 tries to finally get it nuts on. When I started my saw was maybe .015 or .020 out of alignment. After the 3rd or so try, I was able to bring it within .001 to .002… Make sure you mark a tooth on the blade per the manual and use it for you guide. I used a very good quality adjustable tri square and a set of feeler gauges to dial mine in. Later a friend brought the fancy digital indicators and confirmed what I had… When you tighten the bolt under the saw make sure you go slow and tighten them a little at a time. Checking the alignment as you go. I found this to help. Tightening too much at once has a tendency to knock it out of adjustment. The little set screws on the back didn’t help me much. I was better not using them… Don’t be frustrated if you have to try aligning many times. It does take time and patients. Some times it’s good to walk away and come back later. You might have the right touch then…

Anyway, that is my $0.02… Hope it helps. Others may have better ideas in solving your problem…

[Dutch]

Hello Big Johnson,

I'm not really sure which six screws you are talking about, but I assume you are talking about the screws for the front rail. My problem isn't with the alignment. It cuts equal from end to end on the board without and drag at the end of the piece. As I feed the board through, and I made sure to feed it slowly, I can feel it vibrating the board. I can also see the blade wabbling as it slows to a stop, as though the arbor is bent. I ran a piece through after my first post and did notice something else which may help as far as description. The 1/8" blade is cutting at about 5/32" width. So it does seem further evidence that the blade is wabbling. The significance of the 40 tooth blade having only six teeth rub in comparison to the 80 tooth blade having 12 teeth rubbing is that the eighty tooth has twice the teeth, therefore giving an equal degree of problem area. Despite any misalignment, the arbor should spin true whether 90 degrees to the front of the saw or not. Also, as to the problem with the motor. I suspected misalignment of the pulleys also, and I'm sure I can't eyeball to tell whether it is out of alignment, so what I did was to pull the belt completely and run the motor freely. It vibrates enough that I can lay my hand on the saw table top and feel the vibration. As soon as I put the belt on and allow the motors weight to pull the belt tight It makes a loud clicking as though someone was holding a piece of wood into a very fast fan blade. I leveled the table and even the motor pulley and haven't really checked the alignment of the pulley, but as I said, it even vibrates without the belt being on. I will be sure to check the alignment of the pulleys just the same, but, I don't have great hopes here. Wish me luck and I do appreciate your input!! Any and all suggestions are welcome. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[JSchnarre]

Dutch,

With out a dial indicator this can get real difficult to diagnose. First a little back ground, the flange on the arbor has a runout spec of .001 or one thousandth of an inch. Multiply that times 5 to get to the edge of the blade, which gives you .005 runout. Most blades have between .004 - .008, when added with arbor runout, max runout can be close to .013. This is enough runout to be seen while the saw is shutting down.

Without a dial indicator it will be hard to diagnose the problem, but if you would drop me an email and we can discuss it further.

Jake

[Dave L]

Hi Dutch;

I've experience a clicking or tapping sound comming from my TS2424 when it was running. The noise happened after re-assembly for moving and again for replacement of my arbor. After some trouble shooting I discovered the source of the sound to be coming from a pulley loosely mounted on either the motor or arbor shaft. I tightened down the pulley's retaining bolt (forgotten the technical name for this part) and the clicking stopped. Check your pulleys. Hope this helps.

[daveferg]

Just wanted to add a tip on aligning the pulleys, which I found helpful. Remove the belt and take a straight 1/4" dowel and lay it in the v-groves of the pulley--then, take a square and put the end along the rim of the motor pulley and adjust for a match between the square and the dowel---not high tech, but better than eyeing.