Sweating 1.5" copper

[FINER9998]

my retired neighbor needs to replace his boiler. i have volunteered to help since i have installed a few others. he has a relative who can get him copper pipe at a good price, so much of the install will be done in copper. i've sweated up to 3/4" copper without a problem. any tips on what to do with sizes up to and including 1.5" that would help us avoid any pitfalls in sweating pipe of that diameter? he's on a disability retirement, so getting a pro simply isn't in his budget. thanks.

[drtyhands]

You Tube has some good training vids.

Make Dang sure you have the right torch.Cheapy Depot torch along with their flux is going to ruin the job and you will be calling a trained professional after all.I can't even get their stuff to work properly.

We use Everflux brand flux.

[D'Brie]

If acetylene and brazing rod are available you may want to go that route. I use a Crosstech 357 torch (see:www.supplierofchoice.com) they claim the Model #TM2000-357 (the one I use) will solder up to 2 1/2" copper tubing. I have not soldered this large but it will do 1 1/2" without problems.

[JCsPlumbing]

I don't feel I'm as good at it as the Cali. boys but I'll say:

MAPP
Clean/sand pipe bright.
Clean/sand fittings bright.
Ream piping.
Try to keep your bare hands off the cleaned pipe and fittings.
Tinning flux has an easier workability range if it is allowed. Flush well afterwards.
Heat ALL of the fittings area when sweating to get good capillary pull.
Knock off the drips if they happen. Makes it better for the next person that has to get the cutters on right where the solder ball is located.
Wipe fittings & pipe down with wet, then dry, cloths.

Hire some Chinese. It will be cheaper. :grin-devilish:

J.C.

[drtyhands]

I don't feel I'm as good at it as the Cali. boys but I'll say:

MAPP
Clean/sand pipe bright.
Clean/sand fittings bright.
Ream piping.
Try to keep your bare hands off the cleaned pipe and fittings.
Tinning flux has an easier workability range if it is allowed. Flush well afterwards.
Heat ALL of the fittings area when sweating to get good capillary pull.
Knock off the drips if they happen. Makes it better for the next person that has to get the cutters on right where the solder ball is located.
Wipe fittings & pipe down with wet, then dry, cloths.

Hire some Chinese. It will be cheaper. :grin-devilish:

J.C.

I'll put one of our illegal citizen handymen up against two of your guys :grin-devilish::grin-devilish:

[MoJourneyman]

we have Amish here. They'll do anything you feel like showing them. Watched one of them braze copper gutters the other day, it was funny but by the time he got the horizontal runs done he had enough practice that his downspouts looked great.

Good solder, good flux, a quality torch, and some material to practice with and you will do fine.

just know your limitations.

[FINER9998]

I don't feel I'm as good at it as the Cali. boys but I'll say:

MAPP
Clean/sand pipe bright.
Clean/sand fittings bright.
Ream piping.
Try to keep your bare hands off the cleaned pipe and fittings.
Tinning flux has an easier workability range if it is allowed. Flush well afterwards.
Heat ALL of the fittings area when sweating to get good capillary pull.
Knock off the drips if they happen. Makes it better for the next person that has to get the cutters on right where the solder ball is located.
Wipe fittings & pipe down with wet, then dry, cloths.

Hire some Chinese. It will be cheaper.

J.C.

so its the same process as smaller pipe. i am using mapp gas with self igniter tips. jc...are you sying you prefer tinning flux to other types of flux in this application? the sweting is on heating lines, not on domestic potable water. thanks.

[sunworksco]

Just purchase a mapp gas torch/bottle set,wire brushes,Oatey #95 tinning paste flux,lead-free solder from Home Depot.Make sure that the copper is very clean and use a few good paste flux brushes.Do not ever try and solder when pipe has moisture inside it.Your solder joint will fail.An old plumbers' trick when pipes are slightly dripping with moisture is to ball up white bread and plug the pipe upstream from the fitting/pipe solder location.It will swell up and block the moisture.The white bread will dissolve and flush out when the line is pressurized with water.Whole wheat bread will not work.You can also buy a blood pressure cuff rubber bulb and tube and squeeze the bulb with air pressure and inflate a balloon inside the pipe to seal off the water when sweating the fittings together.This is a smart device to use for glueing together pvc pipe/fittings with partially filled water lines,too.

[Bob D.]

What is the big deal here; it's stinking 1-1/2" copper; haven't we all run miles of this stuff? It's no different than soldering 1" or 1-1/4", or even 2" for that matter. Same tools and skills.

3" and up is when the game changes a bit (tool-wise), but it's still basically the same process.