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View Full Version : How to make your R8823 a 1/2" Impact


Alphacowboy
10-31-2009, 05:10 PM
Just to start off, the following will probably void the warranty, but here it goes. Unfortunately this only slightly increases the torque of the wrench itself.

I have a MaxSelect R8823 impact and have broken 3 of the 1/2" square/1/4" Hex adapters and rarely use the impact for anything other than using it with impact sockets. (I have a 14v Ridgid 1/4" if I still needed it.) So, I decided to see what I could find for parts to swap out the 1/4" driver "anvil" as they call it. Well, knowing that TTI runs both the Ridgid and Milwaukee tool lines, my first go to for parts was Milwaukee. Sure enough, Milwaukee has a huge host of 1/2" impact wrenches. After a first strike out getting the wrong anvil, I found the correct one on the second try. There is only one part needed for this swap. I ordered the anvil for a Milwaukee 0883-20 18V Cordless Impact. The part number is 14-73-0375 from www.ereplacementparts.com (http://www.ereplacementparts.com) and only costs $9.90 plus shipping.

Now, for modifying the unit, there's not much to it really. First, remove the battery!!! Second, you need a metal pick to remove the small snap ring that is just inside the edge of the 1/4" quick connect adapter. This was actually the hardest part for me of the entire project. This allows the quick connect parts to be removed, these have to be removed so that the anvil can later be removed. I then removed the rubber grommet from the end of the unit. It just pries off, a flat blade screw driver can be used if needed. This allows the plastic guard of the aluminum nose housing to slide off exposing the case screws. There is 4 torx-bit screws, I used a t-15, but I think they might be an odd-ball and are more like a t-17 as the wrench I had didnt quite fit perfectly, and the t-20 was to big. After removing the 4 torx screws, pull the housing away from the plastic parts of the unit. Be careful though, as the tension spring unit can fall out and its heavy and might break something if it falls out. There is no tension on it, so it shouldnt fly out or anything like that. Remove the spring housing if it stayed with the nose. Press the anvil into the nose housing and remove it. There will be 2 metal ball bearings that should come out with the anvil, if not make sure they are not stuck to the grease in the nose. They will not be needed for the new anvil. The next step is the only modification that require physical modification to the unit. So that the 1/2" anvil can fit the nose, you must remove a small lip of aluminum in the end of the nose. I did this with a Uni-bit (stepped drill bit). From the outside of the nose, I placed the Uni-bit into the nose opening and slowly removed the aluminum until the bit contacted the hardened steel guide bushing. This will not damage the unit, and you can put the 1/4" anvil back if you so choose. Now, clean any metal shavings you may have created from the nose. Lightly grease the bushing and the new anvil. Slide the anvil into the nose cone in the reverse way you removed the old anvil. Then take the tension spring unit, and lightly grease the end bushing, and insert this into the nose/anvil. it should slip into the rear of the anvil. Turn it until it is in as far as it will go. There is 2 metal bushing bands that slide just inside of the nose housing at the rear, they should have fallen out when you removed the nose and tension spring assembly. Slide these two bands back in place as they were when first taken apart. Slowly mesh the nose to the motor/grip unit. I found it easiest to hold the nose down and slide the motor/grip down into the nose. If you need to, slowly turn the anvil by hand and it should assist you in meshing the gears together. When the nose and grip are firmly back together, re-insert the screws. Slide the plastic guard back onto the nose. And re-install the rubber nose by pressing it back on. (you will notice that there is a "flat spot" on one side of the aluminum nose, this corresponds with a flat spot on the back of the rubber nose end) That's it, install the battery and you are done!

Now, for specs, this is what I am guessing, and I am basing this off of the unit I "robbed" the parts from.

The Anvil came from the very closely related Milwaukee 0883-20 Impact. It has a sister unit that is the 0881-20 which is the 1/4" hex drive. The 0881 has the exact same specs as the R8823 unit. It also uses the exact same parts as the 0883-20 except for the nose and anvil. Motor and gear box on both the 0883 and 0881 are identical parts. So, with that said, this is what I think this modification nets you....

R8823 Specifications:


Torque - 1490 In.lbs.
Speed 18v - 1,700 RPM, 2,900 BPM
Speed 24v - 2,100 RPM, 3,300 BPM
Built in LED Light
Chuck - 1/4-inch hex
18-volt/24-volt

R8823 Hypothetical Specifications:


Torque - 2280 In.lbs. (190 Ft.lbs.)
Speed 18v - 1,700 RPM, 2,900 BPM
Speed 24v - 2,100 RPM, 3,300 BPM
Built in LED Light
Chuck - 1/2" Square Drive
18-volt/24-volt


0881-20 Specifications:


Torque - 1400 In.lbs.
Speed - 2,600 RPM, Impacts per Minute - 3,200
Built in LED Light
Chuck - 1/4-inch hex
18-volt

0883-20 Specifications:


Torque - 2,200 In.lbs.
Speed - 2,600 RPM, Impacts per Minute - 3,200
Built in LED Light
Chuck - 1/2" Square
18-volt

Link to the part you need as ereplacementparts
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/search_result.php?keywords=14-73-0375

0883-20
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41xz28bdykL._SS500_.jpg

0881-20
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410eqjY9dPL._SS500_.jpg

R8823
http://www.ridgid.com/assets/thumbnail.asp?path=/ASSETS/37FF4C43C7634EA0AA9DAED428B76474/R8823.jpg&key=%7B5DBD7E77-3D6D-4B00-919F-07175D41BF73%7D

Modified R8823 (correct anvil is slightly different)
http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8740&stc=1&d=1257027566

Also, here is a link of the PDF file of the part break downs

R8823
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/ridgid/R8823.pdf
0883-20
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/Milwaukee/0883-20_%28SER_B24A%29.pdf

g0dzilla
10-31-2009, 07:22 PM
Nicely done. The first thought in my mind when I picked up the R8823 yesterday and noted the high torque spec was I wonder how strong the 1/2" socket hex adapters are. Can anyone confirm the increase in max torque based on some sort of mechanical advantage calculation of the wider anvil over the hex?

Alphacowboy
11-01-2009, 01:07 AM
To my surprise the modified unit loosened the lug nuts on my 3/4ton Dodge, something it never could do beforehand. It does seem a little tight but we will see...

Frankiarmz
11-01-2009, 07:53 AM
To my surprise the modified unit loosened the lug nuts on my 3/4ton Dodge, something it never could do beforehand. It does seem a little tight but we will see...

I give you credit for tinkering, but the Ridgid unit is what it is. I use a 3/8th and 1/2" adapter for moderate socet work, but there is no substitution to the purposely built heavier units. No harm in keeping busy and seeing what you are capable of, I would rather keep the Ridgid impact stock for the many lighter chores I have and acquire a true heavy duty impact for the tuff stuff. I'm thinking 300 or more ftlbs of torque should be the proper range for a heavy weight. Keep trying, maybe you can embarass Ridgid into making one?

Alphacowboy
11-01-2009, 11:39 AM
Frank, I totally agree, and in a way I hope it Makes Ridgid realize that if someone can make a tool that a lot of people are asking for in their own garage, that maybe Ridgid start producing.

I love my Ridgid tools, and get ridiculed by other subs for having almost exclusively "orange tools". My brothers swear I own stock... maybe I would if I felt that TTI cared more about the power tool side of Ridgid!

I have asked for a coil siding nailer for over two years, nothing. I like Frank and others want a true cordless impact, nothing. Biscuit jointer, positive placement framing nailer, and so on. TTI cares more about the cheap ryobi brand and the Milwaukee line.

Frankiarmz
11-01-2009, 04:28 PM
Cowboy, it's got me stumped too! If they are already producing these tools for Ryobi and Milwaukee, what's the big leap to offer them in the Ridgid line? I also think of it like fishing, the more lines you got baited, the better your chances of catching a fish, in other words since the Ridgid line is already out there in Home Depot, why not expand the offerings and attact more customers? :crying::speechless: The Milwuakee M-18 is a beast at 450ftlbs of torque, they could back it down a bit to 300ftlbs and still sell plenty in orange!

canucksartech
11-02-2009, 09:22 AM
I like steak! Mmmmmm! :wave2: