PDA

View Full Version : Best use of money - Jointer or other shop accessories?


imported_m00n
01-31-2004, 02:34 PM
Hey folks... I am very new to wood working with the exception of my framing houses. I am trying to build up a small modest shop for some hobby work. To say that I will even be a weekend warrior most likely is a stretch. I have about $500.00 to spend. $100.00 of the $500.00 is a gift cirtificate to the local mall which has sears.
I have been planning on buying the Ridgid jointer that you can purchase at home depot for $400.00. However I am now second guessing that and wondering if the money could be better spent. Here are the major tools I have.
</font> table saw</font> router & router table / couple of bits</font> compund miter saw</font> drill press</font> cordless drill</font> jigsaw</font> hand held orbiting sander</font> a small drill bit set</font> some clamps</font> As you can see I have some basics. I guess what I want to know, are there other items that I should get for my shop before getting a jointer? If I don't get it now, it will most likey have to wait a long while. But at teh same time, I don't want to buy it if I don't really need it.

What are the cost benifits in wood purchasing if I buy the jointer? I realize I need a planer to go with a jointer but for now I plan on making a router planer jig.

I was at woodcraft the other day I was told that all their wood is pre jointed so that you have a guaranteed 90 degree angle on two sides... That being the case, again I am forced to ask, do I really need a jointer?

What are the price differences between the type of wood that woodcraft carries vs. wood that has never been jointed or planed?

Thanks all for your input.
Rick

[ 01-31-2004, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: m00n ]

Andy B.
01-31-2004, 06:50 PM
"guaranteed 90 degree" Is Some times not at 90 Degrees more often than not. So there for a jointer is a must to make sure the stock is at 90 degrees. A jointer is also use for milling rough stock and turning it into lumber.I would look at Fine woodworking 2003 tools and shop review.

imported_m00n
01-31-2004, 07:29 PM
Thanks Andy... I just got back from Home Depot with my new Jointer.

Figured if I had the money to get it now while the warrenty is still being offered, I wanted to hop on that deal.

Andy B.
02-01-2004, 12:24 PM
Your welcome. One thing get some help when lifting the jointer onto the base!

papadan
02-01-2004, 01:15 PM
Moon, if you are only using deminsional lumber from H D or Lowes then you wont need the jointer. If you are using hardwoods from Woodcraft and such, then you will deffinitly NEED the jointer. I just picked up $400 worth of exotics from Woodcraft and there aint a straight board in the bunch.

imported_m00n
02-01-2004, 01:24 PM
papadan

It will be a mix. I will most likely use some pine from home depot. in my area pine seems to be the least expensive wood, but it should be good for learning on. I've read that it has more pitch in it so I will need to wook to keep my blades clean.

Oh yeah and a base. Definitly I need a base. wish they was a nice little lift sys like on the 3650. I will have my neighbor come over and help put it in. Better not drool on it though. ;)

[ 02-01-2004, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: m00n ]

Mike3206
02-01-2004, 07:20 PM
LOL, just read this thread. For the Woodcraft people to say that an edge is 90* would be a stretch. Considering that the suface of the boards aren't even planed smooth half the time, I don't know how you could have anything at 90* :confused:

glh
02-02-2004, 01:44 PM
Nobody can guarantee straight edged boards if the boards have had time to expand and contract. That's why boards shouldn't be milled until they ready to use. They may not move much, but I'll bet a .005 feeler gauge would easily slide under an accurate straightedge placed on about any boards that have been jointed over three weeks or so.

woodworkerjake
02-02-2004, 02:10 PM
I vote Router & build a table for it.

YOu can make alot of really nice furniture for less money with cabinet grade veneered plywood. Around here you can buy very nice finish lumber for trim and doors and drawers.

Router will give you alot of functionality

Jake

SCWood
02-02-2004, 03:00 PM
Moon
Congrats on the jointer. I think you will be happy with it. You might want to pick up a mag with the proper use of a jointer. It takes a little practice, when it is great. I have had the Ridgid for about 3 or 4 years.
SCWood

Mark IV
02-02-2004, 05:07 PM
I guess what I want to know, are there other items that I should get for my shop before getting a jointer? Dust Collector?

Andy B.
02-02-2004, 06:22 PM
I would get a Dust collector. At least 1 hp. I got ming through http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com/detail.asp?product_id=1342

[ 02-02-2004, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: Andy B. ]

imported_m00n
02-03-2004, 01:47 PM
I know dust collection is critical, but it will have to wait.

Just realized my most humble router table (one of those 100.00 metal things) is warped. Gotta build me a new table or get an insert for my table saw. Plus I want a nice Porter Cable router.

woodworkerjake
02-04-2004, 01:28 AM
Moon, we'll have to see who gets the PC 890 kit first. you or me. It' son my want list. Waiting for money to come in. Then I'm gonna pounce.

Keep me posted

Jake

imported_ByteButcher
02-06-2004, 01:45 AM
You best get some dust collection on the jointer even if its just a shop vac with a 2 1/2" to 4" adapter. The dust chute will clog up fast and shavings will start coming out up top. I clogged mine up just planing a few boards to test it after assembly. Hooking it up to a collector makes a big difference. Same goes for a thickness planer. These 2 tools create several times the debris of a tablesaw or router. It doesn't take long to fill a garbage can.

glh
02-06-2004, 10:20 PM
I would definitely get some sort of dust collector before I got either a joiner or a planer. As far as other power tool goes, the only thing you don't have besides the joiner and planer is a bandsaw. Depending on what you plan to build, a bandsaw (14" or more) could be an extremely valuable thing (resawing, cutting curves, and ripping boards).
Don't take my this next comment as a criticism because I certainly don't mean it that way. But, this is one of those questions to which there is really not a good answer other than, maybe, it depends. It's similar to the question, "what are the most essential tools in the workshop." At one level, the answer is that it depends on the type of work you do. "Essential" tools will vary depending upon wheither you're making chairs, cabinets, jewelry boxes, or turning pens.
At another level, there is really no answer because it is hard to argue that any specific tool is essential--unless you count the person behind the tool. It certainly doesn't make any sense to argue that any power tool is "essential" since the periods of highest craftsmanship where generally those before power tools. There are usually several ways to get the job done and the best way depends on one's skills, budget, time, and available space.
For example, I know a lady that does beautiful work with a contractor's table saw, scroll saw, 9" bandsaw, router and Incra router jig on a table top, and a few hand tools. She keeps her tools in her living room and uses a mobile base to move her table saw onto her patio to work. Obviously, rain and cold postpones the table saw work. This lady builds everything from cabinets to jewelry boxes and does beautiful scroll saw work.

imported_NCLaquer
02-12-2004, 12:21 AM
I am surprized no one suggested a band saw. It seems that a band saw could be one of the most usefull tools in your shop. Resawing, cutting curves, etc.

Someone mentioned that there is no need for a planer if you are only buying lumber from HD... What about planing laminated narrow boards? e.g., laminating a few narrow boards to make a 12" wide piece suitable for a raised panel? What about making a dozen of them?