View Full Version : TS Calibration Jig
I knocked this little jig out for calibrating the miter slot/blade and right miter slot/fence. It is also useful on BT's for setting the MST to the blade, and rip fence if you have a MST on both sides of the blade.(set right side MST to blade, then fence to MST) The indicator is the HF ~$10 one, with a tab on the back with a 1/4" hole in it. I routed a 1/4" slot on one end of the oak scrap and drilled a 1/4" hole through the sides to match the hole in the indicator tab, drilled 2 1/4" holes for mounting to the miter fence near the other end.
It's tilted down on the left cause if it's level it lines up with the slot in the rip fence on my Ridgid 3650. Bad planning on my part. redface.gif
Hope this gives you an idea for improving it for your application.
ken
http://www.woodworker.ws/images/calijig1.jpg
http://www.woodworker.ws/images/calijig2.jpg
ba-doyn
11-03-2005, 12:26 PM
very nice
BadgerDave
11-03-2005, 03:04 PM
Thats a good idea Ken, might just have to borrow that one.
toolguy1000
11-04-2005, 12:43 PM
LOOKS LIKE A REALLY USEFULL ITEM. FOR US LESS EXPERIENCED TYPES, WHAT DO THOSE ABBEVIATIONS REPRESENT?
BadgerDave
11-04-2005, 02:19 PM
Lets see if I can take a stab at the abbrvs.
BT's = Ryobi BT3000 or BT3100 Table Saw
MST = Miter Sliding Table (not sure about this one)
HF = Harbor Freight :rolleyes:
Originally posted by toolguy1000:
LOOKS LIKE A REALLY USEFULL ITEM. FOR US LESS EXPERIENCED TYPES, WHAT DO THOSE ABBEVIATIONS REPRESENT? Oh, sorry.
I 'graduated' from A Ryobi BT3000 saw. (BT) The BT doesn't have miter slots, but they sell an optional little aluminum miter slot table. (MST)
HF is Harbor Freight.
I had posted this on the BT3central.com forum and should have removed those references when I pasted that post here.
ken
daveferg
11-06-2005, 03:52 PM
Just FYI---Griz' also has a full gauge kit (magnetic base, etc.) for $20---it was recommended in Pop Wwing a while back and is really nice for the money.
Great Idea! Will also borrow it! Thanks.
mikesandy
11-07-2005, 01:48 PM
I think I will borrow your idea also. Where did you get your zero clearance inserts and what are the holes for?
Originally posted by mikesandy:
I think I will borrow your idea also. Where did you get your zero clearance inserts and what are the holes for? I made the insert from Corian, using the stock insert as a template. The larger front hole is for removing the insert, the others are to improve dust collection.
I have a few pieces of 4 by 14+ Corian available if anyone is interested.
ken
mikesandy
11-08-2005, 01:34 PM
Are you offering to make some for a small fee?
Originally posted by mikesandy:
Are you offering to make some for a small fee? No, I wasn't. But I could. Or I can sell some Corian pieces. It's easy to make them, tho. Use the stock one to trace it's outline on the Corian. Cut that outline out a little outside the trace line on the bandsaw or jigsaw. Double stick tape the stock plate to the Corian centered. Use a flush trim bit in the router (table is safer) and make an exact copy of the insert.
You will have to file or sand the front bit where the tab is. I added a small steel strip at the front to do the tabs job. I sanded down the underside front and back so I could add level adjustment screws at the corners.
HTH,
ken
[ 11-08-2005, 06:56 PM: Message edited by: KenM ]
mikesandy
11-09-2005, 08:39 AM
I was looking for two inserts, the cheapest I found them was for 12.99 from t-track usa. How much would you like to make two of them?
Rafael
11-09-2005, 11:37 AM
Simple and easy to make. Very nice. I will definitely be making one.
Thanks for sharing.
ironhat
11-10-2005, 11:49 AM
Try these previous posts on making your own ZCIs, Mike.
http://www.ridgidforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=000653
or
http://www.ridgidforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002700
Later,
Chiz
gator
12-22-2005, 09:05 AM
The larger front hole is for removing the insert, the others are to improve dust collection.
ken [/QB]I have never understood the concept of putting holes in a throat plate to improve dust collection. The board is sitting flush on top of the holes so there is no way, in my mind, that dust can get into the holes to be sucked up by the DC system. Perhaps you could be the first to explain this concept so that I can understand it.
gator
Originally posted by gator:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />The larger front hole is for removing the insert, the others are to improve dust collection.
ken I have never understood the concept of putting holes in a throat plate to improve dust collection. The board is sitting flush on top of the holes so there is no way, in my mind, that dust can get into the holes to be sucked up by the DC system. Perhaps you could be the first to explain this concept so that I can understand it.
gator [/QB]</font>[/QUOTE]Nope, sorry.
I agree with your thinking. I initially didn't drill the extra holes and sawdust rooster-tailed from the blade. After I drilled the holes, alamost all of it was pulled into the DC connector. Just one of the mysteries of life, I suppose. ;)
Ken
NewfGuy
12-23-2005, 07:55 AM
Originally posted by BadgerDave:
Thats a good idea Ken, might just have to borrow that one. I'm with you Dave. I just got my Grizzly dial indicator yesterday. Looks like a small project is on the list for this weekend. ;)
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