Ridgid Tool Care

[spacebluesonoma]

Hello

I spend a lot of money on and like to think i take great care of my tools. I am having a small problem however and need some advice.

I own a Ridgid Contractors table saw and Ridgid Jointer. I live in California on the coast. My garage is not climate controlled but is unfortunately the only place i have to set up shop at this time. I will be moving back to the midwest in the new year.

anyway the cast iron top of my table saw and jointer are starting to show signs of rust. How do i prevent this without damaging the tools and applying anything to them that is going to damage my wood? I am trying to solve this problem early and would appreciate any suggestions anyone is willing to give. thanks so much

[DaveM]

You can clean the rust off with Wd-40 and some steel wool or fine sandpaper. Then apply a couple of coats of paste wax (not car wax). I put paste wax on my table saw every couple of months. Some do it more frequently. Hope this helps. Dave

[JSchnarre]

Paste wax seems to be the easiest and most effective way to control rust, but it will need to be reapplied on a regular basis. You could also cover the tools. Its been my experience the much of the surface rust you see is from mositure settling out of the air. Even so much as a sheet of paper will keep that mositure from touching the cast iron surface.

Jake

[KellyC]

I built a plywood top for my 2424 and it covers the whole top (mainly for using it as a workbench)...it doubles as a rust protective surface. I also use paste wax...in fact I need to do it this week!

[spacebluesonoma]

thanks so much for all the help

ed

[RGad]

I've had my 2424 for a bit less than a year now. Live in Boston, where the winters are cold (and the basement is warm and dry, thanks to the heating plant), but the summers are warm and humid (and the heating plant doesn't run). To date -- knock on wood -- I've had not a speck of rust on the table.

I do three things:

First, and this may be a bit excessive, but I put a light coat of Butchers Bowling Alley wax on the table after each major outing.

Second, I take the narrow-snout attachment on the shop vac and clean out all of the dust that accumulates inside the machine, on the theory that this may be hydroscopic.

Third, and this is no doubt excessive, I never touch the top with bare hands and don't let anyone else touch it either. Gloves always.

My defensive of excessiveness is that it seems to me obvious that it is easier to prevent a problem than it is to clean it up after it has arrived.

For what it is worth . . . .

[mayres]

The glove thing sounds excessive, however, i do have a hand print in my top i just can't get rid of.

[daveferg]

RGad----just a bit of advise, but using gloves around power tools is very dangerous. I light wax touch up after you've used the saw is more than enough. Also, don't make the mistake some of us have made and leave a piece of wood laying on the top for any length of time---moisture content in wood can really make ugly marks.

[woodslayer]

Space

Last February I discovered a product called Collinite’s No. 850 Metal Wax available in marine centers. I applied some that day (requires a little elbow grease) and my machined surfaces just shined. As for an update, I just reapplied some last week before the weather gets too cold for it to adhere in my unheated shop. My tools survived the summer humidity without any signs of rust and they still looked excellent. I contacted the manufacture and they confirmed that the product contains no silicone.

Woodslayer

[ralphthetoolman]

like some others, i find the glove trick a tad dangerous and excessive,understandable considerin the work involved removing rust, but still excessive. I have used bowling ally paste wax on my 3612 twice since July and the top is fine. I also live in new england where the humidity will rot ya in the summer. Me thinks if i did see rust on it, i may seek a pair of gloves !! (kidding) that IS dangerous ! :eek:

[Desmo888]

Spray WD40 on your deck when you finish with your job or are planning on setting your tools up for some time. Make sure to get a bead along the left& right seams between the wings so it can penetrate through and avoid spraying directly through the blade insert.

When ready to begin, using denatured alcohol and a clean rag, wipe the working surfaces down.

Thats all you need to do.

If you begin with a rusted deck, polish the deck with some 600 grit sand paper and clean with denatured alcohol.

[Greg's Garage]

If anyone knows humidity, its DESMO! In New Orleans, we live in 90 to 100% humidity most of the year.
I just use Johnson's Paste wax about 2 or 3 times a year. Works great. No rust. Slick as ice!

[ 10-20-2003, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: Greg's Garage ]

[Greg's Garage]

WOH!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Just read a few postings above mine.

First rule: Never wear gloves while working with rotating machinery.(ie, table saw, bench rinder, etc.) If you do, you're asking for trouble. Its like getting your tie caught in the paper shredder...just keeps pulling.

[panamint98]

You can buy a product called Topcoat, you spray it on the top and rub it out and it will protect from rust and also makes the wood slide easy. It doesn't leave a residue that will get on the wood like WD 40 will. You can find it at tool stores and woodworking tool catalogs. You only have to redo it a couple a times a year. It makes a big diference on making to wood slide easy on your bandsaws too.
Scott

[glh]

For simple protection, I clean with mineral spirits and apply a thin coat of furniture paste wax. To remove light rust, I use steel wool and mineral spirits. For heavier rust, I use a product named Rust Control. I then apply paste wax. Rust Control is available from several sources, including Woodcraft. The same company that makes Rust Control makes a protective coating called K-9, or something like that. It's similar to Topcoat and WD-40.
I live in a high humidity area and rust is a continuous battle.

[BadgerDave]

Originally posted by panamint98:
You can buy a product called Topcoat, you spray it on the top and rub it out and it will protect from rust and also makes the wood slide easy. It doesn't leave a residue that will get on the wood like WD 40 will. You can find it at tool stores and woodworking tool catalogs. You only have to redo it a couple a times a year.Scott I heartily second the use of TopCote®. The stuff does everything Scott said it does. The best price I've found is at http://www.leevalley.com If anyone knows of a better price, please post it.

[glh]

A couple of errors in my post above. The rust remover is Rust Free, not Rust Control. The rust preventor is T-9, not K-9. Both Rust Free and K-9 are Boeshield products. T-9 is a competitor of Topcoat. Both are available from Woodcraft.

[Terry2]

The following was sent to me from Ridgid technical services:

For rust removal we recommend a product called Rust Free, and for prevention
a product called T-9 Boesheild. Both are available from Hartville Tool at
1-800-345-2396.

T.Clinkscales
Technical Services

[Terry2]

The following was sent to me from Ridgid technical services:

For rust removal we recommend a product called Rust Free, and for prevention
a product called T-9 Boesheild. Both are available from Hartville Tool at
1-800-345-2396.

T.Clinkscales
Technical Services

[Woodndust]

I agree with most of the replies. I use a wax be minwax. What i found helps tremendously is to cut a piece of cardboard the size of your top and place it over the cast iron when not in use. The cardboard absorbs the moisture and prevents it from getting on the cast iron surface. I pull my shop around in a trailer behind my pickup and since I started doing this I have very little rust problems. WD-40 by the way attracts moisture.