2400 rip fence question

[KellyC]

I was out tinkering with my 2400 today...getting the rip fence sliding table adjusted to allow smooth fence travel. It was loose and was hanging up on the sliding part. While it was getting adjusted, I noticed that the fence tape reads 23" when fully extended. I poked around a bit to see if there was an adjustment to lengthen this to 24" and noticed the tape goes to 26". Mine will not go past 23" and it's dead on accurate at that measurement...what am I missing?

Does the fence have the ability to go past 23"? It seems to me that the rear rail is the culprit.

I loosened all the nuts to adjust both rails, but still can't go past 23". I'm sure the fix is simple, but I can be as simple as they come sometimes....help!

[JSchnarre]

Kelly,

Most likely the rear rail is misaligned and needs to be slid to the left just a bit. Loosen the two screws the bolt the rear rail the extension table (not the main table). Release the slide lock and slide the rear rail only over about 2" to the left, retighten the bolts, making sure the extension is still level with the main table, and you should be to get 25" of rip capacity.

Jake

[KellyC]

The mystery has been solved...it's the front rail that's off...by over 3". I'm going to move it as you said to move the rear rail and see if that works. The one in HD's has a 25 3/8" cut capacity....heck, that's more than my 2424!

[ba-doyn]

Kelly,

Shows how much of a novice I am...I never noticed! smile.gif

Michael

[KellyC]

I never would have noticed either if it hadn't been for the current project at hand. Still haven't moved the rail, but I'm sure it'll fix it. I've got to cut some 25" panels on the jobsite tomorrow....I hate working weekends but times are tough!

[KellyC]

I got the front rail adjusted and the capacity just went up to 25 1/2"! This makes me want to move the rails on my 2424...hmmm...

[Big Johnson]

Kelly,
It's very easy to move the TS2424 rails and attach the the spacer componets... I feel it was well worth the money...

Here are a few pic’s:

1. http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/TS2424%20Fence/1.jpg
2. http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/TS2424%20Fence/2.jpg
3. http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/TS2424%20Fence/4.jpg
4. http://home.neb.rr.com/iambigjohnson/Big%20Johnson/TS2424%20Fence/6.jpg

[KellyC]

Thanks for the links Big...I'm gonna do that soon. I want to make the third space a table that holds a router, so I'm going to do some research and find a table that will fit the saw.

I noticed while thumbing through the new Amazon Tool catalog, that they are starting to sell accessories that actually say they fit Ridgid saws!

[ 01-19-2003, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]

[Big Johnson]

Kelly,
I am planning to put a router table in my right wing in time too. This would be the cat's meow for a cramped space shop...

I just got a new Amazon tool catalog myself the other day but hadn't noticed the Ridgid listings... What items particular did you notice...

To bad we aren’t better inventors... We would design and build a 12" or 14" x 27" tablesaw router table wing insert with plate that are reasonably priced and make a few bucks... I think there is a great demand for this...

I have seen a few but they are so expensive... It would be even better if Ridgid would make this available... (What do you think Jake???)

[KellyC]

One was a saw stand pre-drilled for the Ridgid 2400...The Rousseau Mobile Max...I looked for the other one again, but couldn't find it.

I've been thinking about that insert. It could be made to accept a router plate and a router lift (two different models). I might just build one if nobody comes out with one by the time I get a router for the table.

How much room do you have with the new setup to the right of the webbed wing?

[ 01-19-2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]

[Big Johnson]

Kelly,
From the webbed wing to the end of the aluminum front rail measuring to the right I have about 19-3/8" of space. This is excluding the plastic end cap on the front rail...

There would be plenty of room for a nice router wing in this area...

One could run angle iron (2) under the right wing through to the router table to help carry the load while still bolting it to the end of the wing. This would also aid in supporting the front and rear fence rails...

I have a Freud FT2000 router that I plan to use in a table… At that time I will buy a much lighter router for hand held use… The Freud would be right at home under there…

[KellyC]

The other was the Bench Dog left extension table...the picture shows it in the 3612...I suppose it could fit in the right slot, but for $299 who cares? That's way too much for a router table extension in my book...

[KellyC]

I've got a Craftsman 75th anni model (same as the Ryobi 1.5hp model). I got it for routing deck railings, I want a PC 693 or equivalent for the table. I'm going to scour the catalogs for awhile and see what I can find before I start thinking about making one.

[Big Johnson]

Kelly,
Is this the table you were talking about for $299.00: http://www.benchdog.com/Products/Protop/RT250.htm

[KellyC]

That's the one....looks better in the bigger pic, but it's more expensive than a stand alone table.

I see now that it's mounted on a 2424 and that the left web table is missing.

Rockler has one that costs $99.99 without a fence (I want to use the fence I have with a sacrificial face on it)....

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?sku=2212&filter=23328&DID=6

They're ALL backordered...that oughta tell us something!

[ 01-19-2003, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]

[Dave Arbuckle]

It could be made to accept a router plate and a router lift (two different models).

Jessem makes Mast-R-Plate and Mast-R-Lift models that fit in the same cutouts.

Dave

[KellyC]

I like the idea of a router lift in the picture, but would it add a ton of money to the bill?

I found another one...Craftsman makes one that'll fit either end of the saw...in the catalog it's on the right, on the web it's on the left...fits any 27" saw and it's 14 1/8" wide. If the link goes through ok....

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0912233083.104 3035915@@@@&BV_EngineID=cchfadchgdegjkicehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=TOOL&bidsite=&pid=00925 351000 (http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0912233083.104 3035915@@@@&BV_EngineID=cchfadchgdegjkicehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=TOOL&bidsite=&pid=00925351000)

[The Original Bart]

Kelly you might be disappointed in the Sears router table I have the used a table like this & the grooves tend to fill with shavings & make things difficult. Also it's better to have a table 18" wide or wider. Something I've never understood is why people put their router table on the right side of the saw. I have mine on the left side of the saw where I can stand right next to it while I am using it. I have 2 pieces of thick oak with mitered ends that I mount to the fence with allen head bolts & fender washers recessed into the front of the wood & nuts that fit the slotted table saw fence. The piece of wood for the infeed side is longer than the outfeed side. I have a phenolic insert made from scrap I used inserts from a drillpress/spindle sander to change the size of the opening around the router bit.

[Dave Arbuckle]

but would it (a router lift) add a ton of money to the bill?

You bet! Woodcraft sells the Mast-R-Lift at $270. It isn't even the most expensive, that would be the Bench Dog ProLift NI for $390.

But, they are very popular, and with many of the same customers that are ideal for a product like you are discussing. If I were going to offer a prebuilt router table top of any sort, I would be certain to accomodate the popular lifts.

I've seen people buy a router table "kit" that runs over a thousand dollars, several times. These are your potential customers.

Dave

[Big Johnson]

Kelly,
I am really wanting a router table bad since we have been talking about it...

The Rockler table looks to be pretty nice but they don't offer a plate for the Freud FT2000 router... I would have to buy the blank plate and drill it myself, which is not a problem sine we have a full fledged machine shop at work... But, I also have a piece of 1/4" aircraft aluminum under my desk at work that I dug out of the scrap hopper a while back... It is 12" x 14" and needs to be surface ground and drilled...

I am wondering if I would want the miter gage slot in the front of the router table which the Rockler didn't offer, or is this not necessary??? Maybe it would be useful when routering the ends of narrow parts like cabinet door frames and such…

I have been running my FT2000 for near a year now and it is getting old… Maybe I put one on both ends of the table saw… That would be very cool having 2 setup’s…

Does anyone have any great tablesaw router wing plans?

Pardon me… I am babbling…

[Big Johnson]

So Dave and Kelly,
When do we get started designing the ultimate high quality, multi bell and whistled, low dollar router table, which we can sell hi-volume quantities of?
Or do we sell low-volume and high dollar, to separate the guy's with big pocket books from the guy's like me???

I've got about $20,000.00 worth the design software just itching to make something...

Dave, what does your ultimate tablesaw router table look like??? Besides the one you own... What’s missing???

[KellyC]

Bart...

I would put mine on the right to take up some space when I move the rails over on my 2424. This is going to happen in the next few months, so I'm going to take my time in figuring out what to fill the void with. I also want to utilize my present fence (with an addition or two) for the router table. Most of my routing on the table will be molding oriented...long boards at that.

The other consideration will be the fence itself. I am leaning towards the eventual addition of the Incra fence system, but that will come much later.

I did veto the Sears system today because even though it's inexpensive, it prevents the use of large aluminum plates and lifts. This is shortsighted as a purchase as I want the shop to be top shelf this time around.


Dave...I think you have a very good point. The table needs to be able to accept the most popular plates and lifts. How many models would we have to design to take care of the top five plates and lifts...or are that many popular?

On the same tangent, what do you guys think we would want the top made of? My uncle made his own from hard maple I think (I've only seen it once and yes Big...it has three t-tracks for the miter gauge....1 at each end and 1 on the front...I like the idea of being able to run the miter gauge on 3 sides personally).

My supplier just got a new CNC router systemn that would be ideal for making this table...I'm sure he'd be intersted in talking about a making them. I can design and host a simple web page with hi-res photos and help with getting them made, sold and shipped.

We'd really benefit from having one each of the plates and lifts we wanted to make the table fitted to as well as the dimensions of the top several TS's we wanted the table to fit...maybe Dave could help us with this part as well as relations with the vendors of same.

With your design capabilites, the only thing we'd be missing is the business plan and startup $$$.

To answer your question Big, I'm ready to start anytime to get this ball rolling. I think there's a great market for a product that fits this description. I know there are many shops that could use this product.

And, we'd get the first ones to test right? :D :D

[ 01-20-2003, 11:54 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]

[Dave Arbuckle]

Random quick thoughts...

Coolest table top on the market, in my opinion, is the Jessem. Retails at about $150, 3/4" solid phenolic. Aside from being very stable, it eliminates the manufacturing process of double-side laminating MDF. Special benefit for this project is that it is lighter than MDF. The less stress you put on a tablesaw's rails that weren't necessarily designed for this load, the better.

Lifts: Jessem Mast-R-Lift (comes in two plate sizes) and Rout-R-Lift (which is becoming obsolescent, but is sold by Jet/Powermatic bundled with tablesaws). Woodpeckers Precision Router Lift, Plunge Lift and Unilift. Bench Dog ProLift AL and NI. Those are the ones that come immediately to mind.

Some are of course the same size. Be certain not to neglect the radius of the corners, as that too may vary. More info later.

Dave

[KellyC]

Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle:
Coolest table top on the market, in my opinion, is the Jessem. Retails at about $150, 3/4" solid phenolic. Aside from being very stable, it eliminates the manufacturing process of double-side laminating MDF. Special benefit for this project is that it is lighter than MDF. The less stress you put on a tablesaw's rails that weren't necessarily designed for this load, the better.I like the idea of it not being made of MDF. I'm going to find that one on the web today and check it out.

Phenolic resin is probably the most stable material...can a good fence be made of the same? One thing I'd like is a dust collection port the same size as the shop-vac port on the 2400 to accomdate those small shops that use the vac for DC.

Could the 2424 & 3612 fences be adapted by the addition of a "bolt-on" for the router? We'd need to make it fit several fences by having two methods of connection...one T-track and the other clamps for the square tube fences....personally, I'd opt for this idea over a separate fence, but we need to think of both scenarios. Most TS owners would probably want the extra fence for production work.

[Dave Arbuckle]

For the Jessem top, search Woodcraft's site for item 143224, or go to the source at http://www.jessem.com/ .

Phenolic resin is probably the most stable material...can a good fence be made of the same?

Probably, but it might get kind of expensive. Most of the router table fences are made of aluminum extrusions, with a replaceable face. Jessem's faces are phenolic, Bench Dog's are MDF. I recommend Bench Dog to people, one of the features being that the cost of replacing the faces is negligable because MDF is so inexpensive. Other than being very attractive to look at, I can't come up with a single positive to the phenolic fence faces. I guess if you had a water leak, they wouldn't be damaged.

Could the 2424 & 3612 fences be adapted by the addition of a "bolt-on" for the router?

Here's Incra's answer to that question: http://www.woodpeck.com/wonderfence.html . Although that web page shows it attached to a router fence, it also attaches to the Incra tablesaw fence. The tricky part would be that there is no standard for how high the T-slot is on a tablesaw fence. As well, of course, many tablesaw fences have no T-slot at all.

Dave

[KellyC]

I talked to Larry today (the cnc guy)...he can cut the tables for us. He also suggested we make inserts for each plate/lift and one size hole in the table for them. I thought that was a good idea....we could make them from the same material as the plates are made (alum?)...you guys ready to do some research and designing?

Oh yeah...and I think the fence part should be left up to the buyer...there are already plenty of them out there...all we need to do is provide the tracks for the fence and the miter guage.

[ 01-24-2003, 03:34 PM: Message edited by: KellyC ]