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View Full Version : Jointer 0610 Beginner Problems/Questions


imported_TXMesquite
11-16-2004, 11:57 PM
I recently got the Ridgid JP0610 jointer. I assesmbled the jointer with minimal problems, made sure the blades were level with the outfeed table, and squared the fence to the infeed/outfeed tables.

I began to edge joint AND plane 1" thick white oak. Everything seemed to be coming together quite nicely. The boards seemed relatively flat with two square edges and faces.

Then, by the third board, I was getting variable thicknesses along the width of the board. That is, after planing both sides, I would get 1/8" variability in the board thickness from one edge to another. I read that downward and inward (toward the fence) pressure should be exerted on both the infeed and outfeed tables. I realized I had changed my technique on the third board, so I began this new practice. My boards are better, but I continue to get variable thickness boards from edge to edge (0.040"). Is there something else I'm missing?

Lastly, because I don't have a planer, I'm trying to get two flat faces using the jointer. Is this reasonable?

Thanks.

Lorax
11-17-2004, 12:26 AM
You can get 2 flat faces with a jointer, but they wont be parallel. This is what the planer does.

hewood
11-17-2004, 07:15 PM
Lorax is right...face plane one face on the jointer, joint an adjacent edge, then put the opposite side through the planer to make it parallel. Finish up by ripping to final width on the TS placing the jointed edge against the fence. (Some people rip close to final width, then clean up the edge back on the jointer)

Lorax
11-18-2004, 12:34 AM
Originally posted by hewood:
Lorax is right... I don't have any more to add, I just like the sound of that! :D

imported_dbird
11-18-2004, 01:40 PM
I had the same problem using the Jointer out of the box, where if I ran a board through several times the same way, the board would taper, going from one thick on one end, to much thinner on the other. I believe that this is due to the outfeed table not being completely level with the knives.

Someone else on the these forums gave me the below link, which has some pretty good information regarding what the problem may be.

http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/tips_jigs.html

Good Luck

hewood
11-18-2004, 05:33 PM
Lorax is right... So is "Rush"....do you still feel as good about it now?! :D

Mike3206
11-23-2004, 11:06 AM
As Lorax said, a jointer is for getting 2 sides at either right angles to each other or two very accurate angles. A planer them makes the opposite side parallel.

I know they call them jointer/planers, but a jointer will not plane, no matter how hard you try.

imported_blade burner
11-23-2004, 01:22 PM
U can join (90 deg)with a planner if u don't mind snipe, but planeing with a joiner will follow the original shape of the work.

Mike3206
11-24-2004, 01:19 PM
U can join (90 deg)with a planner if u don't mind snipe, but planeing with a joiner will follow the original shape of the work. This is completely false. A planer only makes one side parallel to the opposite side. It will not make anything 90* unless there was already two surfaces at 90* in relation to each other. The jointer is what makes the surfaces 90* to each other. Also, a jointer does not follow the shape of the wood. It takes whatever shape there was and makes it flat and true. A planer will follow the shape of the wood. For example, if you took a twisted board and fed it through a planer, you will get a thinner twisted board.

Lorax
11-25-2004, 07:03 AM
Mike 3206 is correct. smile.gif