Got TS3650

[Cmeaux]

I purchased my TS3650 about 5 days ago after about two months of research and comparisons. I based my decission on my most urgent needs which are rip capacity, accuracy, and mobility. It was a toss between this one and the hitachi. Anyway, I spent the better part of 8 hours putting this thing together (aligning also) and must say that it was a monster. This is my very first contractor saw and I was not prepared for all of the alignment and adjustments. Luckily, the saw was dead straight. This saw is so quiet and the cut is laser-like! I know some people complain about the base having a worble, but mine is very sturdy. This will definitely increase my productivity (I build furniture ).

Although I am satisfied with the saw there is that arbor issue that most seem to have. There is clearly a low spot on the arbor. This really doesn't bother me because I use my router for dados.

Also, there is a little vibration (probably fix with better belt). oh one more thing, when I made my first cut with the stock blade the cut came out jagged and there was much vibration. I thought that the saw had been damaged and considered returning it to HD. I decided to try an old blade that I had and it cut straight. I can't believe that the stock blade was warped.

I will try to get Rigid to send me a new blade and arbor.

[Jeremy Crouch]

Congratulations Cmeaux,

I purchased the TS3650 a little while ago and it was my first contractor type saw too. I guess it took about 3-4 hours to assemble and another 2 to get the blade aligned and everything.

I never even tried the blade that came with it. I put my Freud on it and have been using it ever since. The Ridgid blade it came with just looked cheesy and I really wasn't expecting a high quality blade. Figured I would use it to rip plywood, mdf ,2x4's and such.

Also the blade wrenches it came with are pathetic. I have had the blade off only twice so far and they are already bent and slip off the arbor :mad:

Ill have to find a couple of REAL wrenches that are flat enough and long enough to do the job.

[Lorax]

Originally posted by Cmeaux:
Also, there is a little vibration (probably fix with better belt). Congratulations on your new 3650 and welcome to the forum. smile.gif
As you know, the 3650 comes with a flat automotive type belt. I don't think you'll find a better belt and if you did you would have to change the pulleys too.
Have you tried adjusting the belt tension to get rid of the vibration?

[Lorax]

Originally posted by Jeremy Crouch:
I Figured I would use it to rip plywood, mdf ,2x4's and such.

Also the blade wrenches it came with are pathetic. I have had the blade off only twice so far and they are already bent and slip off the arbor :mad:

Congratulations and welcome to you also. smile.gif
The combo blade that came with the saw is not suitable for plywood or MDF. (IMHO)
If you bent the wrenches you are tightening that arbor nut WAY TOO MUCH! It only needs to be a touch beyond snug.

[BadgerDave]

Originally posted by Jeremy Crouch:
Also the blade wrenches it came with are pathetic.

Ill have to find a couple of REAL wrenches that are flat enough and long enough to do the job. There really is no need to buy two wrenches. I'd just go buy a single 1-1/16" box end wrench if you don't already have one. What I do when I change blades is to put on a heavy duty leather work glove and just grab the blade with my gloved hand and loosen the arbor nut with the 17/16"( :D ) box end wrench. I prefer the box end style wrench over an open ended one simply because I find it easier to get it on the nut.

[Lorax]

Originally posted by BadgerDave:
What I do when I change blades is to put on a heavy duty leather work glove and just grab the blade with my gloved hand. Isn't it kind of hard on the motor to stop the blade that way? :eek: :D tongue.gif

[imported_Bob D.]

If you are looking for a wrench that will fit the narrow flats on the inboard side of the blade try a valve tappet wrench. you should be able to pick one up at Sears for about $10. I have an old set that came with a set of late 60s vintage Craftsman tools I bought back when mechanical lifters were still common. What with overhead cams and all now a days I guess there is not much call for these wrenches but I don't do automotive work anymore so don't know if they are still popular or not.

[BadgerDave]

Originally posted by Lorax:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BadgerDave:
What I do when I change blades is to put on a heavy duty leather work glove and just grab the blade with my gloved hand. Isn't it kind of hard on the motor to stop the blade that way? :eek: :D tongue.gif </font>[/QUOTE]Not if you're like me and can change a blade faster than a Sunday afternoon "gas n go" at your favorite NASCAR track. tongue.gif :rolleyes: :D

[hewood]

Congrats on the new saw Cmeaux. I think the 3650 is alot more saw than the Hitachi, which has among the worst fences and flimsiest wings I've seen recently on a saw in this price range.

The vibration isn't likely to be from the serpentine belt. Check the alignment of the pulleys first, and be sure the belt tension on the motor is sufficient. If it persists, you may have to exchange it.

Good luck and be safe.

[papadan]

Dave, don't be trying to confuse the Newbies like that. You know good and well that is a 34/32" wrench that is needed for the arbor nut. :D

[Rodman]

Congrats on your new Ridgid 3650.

I agree with the comment on checking the pulley alignment and tension. This is most likely the cause of the noise. One of reasons for buying the TS3650 was low vibration and noise level couple with a fence system that has excellent repeatability. It really is a heck of a neat table saw for the money.

Moreover, it is easy to soup it up and have it handle material just like a $1500 - $2000 table. The TS3650 is a fine table saw that can be tuned to do some great cuts even on 4' x 8' panels.


I added the Shopfox extension table on the right side and moved the rails over with a new tape system to cut 51 inches on the right of the blade. I then added a 2.5 x 3 inch cherry platform on the left that receives a 27" x 48" 3/4" birch panel with glide tape that locks on the side of my workbench with a feather board system added to it. I also added the new Jessem miter gauge with the dual-indexing angle pins. The Jessem has an extremely accurate ruler and stop system that extends with the stop system out to 36" to left of the blade. Bottom Line: I do not miss the fence on the left side at all with the Jessem.

Have fun - You will find the root cause of the noise and love this little jewel! lol. Not so little when it is a one man install is it? hahah :D

[Cmeaux]

Thanks for the advise about the vibration. I really don't have any other saw to compare this one against so the "little" vibration may just be nothing!

As for the Hitachi Saw, I did notice the thin sheet aluminum cover on the fence that gives under slight pressure and the inferior extension wings!

I love the fact that I can run this saw at night without disturbing my neighbors!

[Joebob]

As far as vibration, my 3650 runs silky smooth and quiet- remarkably so. If my experience is typical, the saw should make a little startup noise when you first turn it on and then settle into a nice, smooth hum that you can barely hear over a shop vac.

One thing to check is your pulley alignment, make sure the pulleys are in the same plane. This is in the assembly instructions toward the end so you probably already did this while you were setting up your saw.

One you might not have done already is check the trunnion bolts to make sure they're tight. My saw was aligned so well right out of the box (within .002") that I didn't have to do anything with the trunnions during setup. Later I noticed some scorching and sloppy cuts so I re-checked the blade and it was way off (almost .01"). When adjusting, I found the trunnion bolts were very loose (I loosened one of them with only 1 finger on the box wrench just to see how bad it was). Long story short (too late), mine seems to have come from the factory with loose trunnion bolts.

Another tip- spend $20 or so and get a dial indicator, it's invaluable for getting your alignment just right. I got mine at littlemachineshop.com.