learned something new...want to pass on

[spacebluesonoma]

learned something the other day from an old timer plumber tht i thought i would pass on, many of you might already be aware of this...but i will post anyway. i had that seeping problem on my sewage stack, plumber came out and repacked the lead. then told me "if it continues to seep you dont need to call me, do this yourself" anyway it is a vertical joint with cast iron pipe, requiring a lead joint. lead being very hard to work with vertically. he showed me a product by quickrete he uses in lieu of lead called "hydraulic water stop, instaplug cement". available for about 4 bucks a tub, it dries quick...easier to work with, and makes a great seal. will probably last longer than led too. actually needed to use this today on another problem, and it worked well. and cut the job in half for time. just something ithought i would pass on


ed

[apf]

it may stop the leak but is not a legal repair - there are repair clamps made for leaded joints/hubs

[PIPES]

You would have done better if you learned how to caulk a joint. :(

[PLUMBER RICK]

guy's that post is 4 years old:eek:

space used to be a very regular poster. then he disappeared:eek:

don't know if he was upset with us:confused: or something happened?

as far as i know, there is no repair clamp for a caulked lead joint.

rick.

[oldslowchevy]

i remember space went in to have back surgry then i never heard any thing from him again

[PIPES]

ROFL I never read the date on the original post. Teach me post when I should be doing paper work.

[apf]

I didn,t know there was a repair clamp like that either until I stumbled across one ..it,s a mech. coup. and the end looks like the end of a brass mech. coupling and spreads and tightens with two bolts which encase the cast iron hub , there is a elastomeric seal/ gasket whiich buts up to the lead pour.............. I wished I had known about it when I was running into steel /cast DWV .Have a good day

[Bob D.]

"as far as i know, there is no repair clamp for a caulked lead joint."

The fix I know of is a hammer and a caulking iron. :)
Either that or dig the old lead and oakum out and redo the joint altogether.

[drtyhands]

Bob,

Thanks for the tip on using chisel to cut cast iron pipe, used it the first time earlier this week.22 floors up and the service elevator was locked out from furniture movers.Cut 2" in about 5 min. .

[ToUtahNow]

http://www.smith-blair.com/html/bell_joint_leak_clamp1.html

[drtyhands]

Thank you for the site Utah, that could really help out some day.

[ToUtahNow]

Thank you for the site Utah, that could really help out some day.

I've never used one and I'm not sure that I would. After reading the post I did a quick Google and that was what I came up with.

Mark

[PLUMBER RICK]

i have used a few smith blair repair/ full circle clamps before. they were great for a leaking copper joint on large size domestic water. 4''-6''.

not cheep, but saved alot of time and money. no shut down:D

i too would find it easy to repair a leaking lead and oakum joint.

rick.

[Bob D.]

Bob,

Thanks for the tip on using chisel to cut cast iron pipe, used it the first time earlier this week.22 floors up and the service elevator was locked out from furniture movers.Cut 2" in about 5 min. .

Ya must have found that in another thread I guess, don't remember making that suggestion recently, but cutting CI with a hammer and chisel can be done, I have done it many times. Ya gotta take your time and get a good start, then keep going around evenly. Today there are many other options for cutting CI that this method is almost forgotten. Some might even think of it as a MacGyverism. :) Tough to do in position, much easier on the ground when you can roll the pipe.