3650 Outfeed Table

[Bob D.]

OK, here's my outfeed table for the 3650.

I wanted the ability to tip the blade over the full 45 deg and be able to install/remove the blade guard w/o having to remove the table. When folded up the full table depth adds 38.5" behind the back edge of the saw table (almost 48" if you measure from the back of the blade). When the extension is folded down the fixed portion provides 14.5" behind the back of the saw table. It's 38" wide, with about 16" to the left of the blade. The fixed table is mounted on two pieces of 1.25" sq. x 0.125" Aluminum tube stock 41.25" long. The tube stock is bolted to two pieces of 0.25" x 3" x 27" Aluminum flat bar. The flat bar is placed between the wing and left edge of the table on the left side and between the outer edge of the right wing and the router table extension. Moving the right side support out to the edge of the wing was done so as not to infringe on the already limited hand clearance near the blade bevel handwheel.

To get some added clearance on the table underside where the motor comes up I shifted the motor as far to the right in the motor mount (when viewed from the rear) and re-aligned the pulleys. This moved the motor over about 1/2". When the blade is tilted over to 45 deg and the blade raised all the way up the fan shield on motor rises up to its highest point. Before making the motor adjustment I measured the clearance and it was only 1/8" below the top of the TS table surface. After sliding the motor over this same measurement was 7/16". This meant I would only have to remove about half the table thickness to have clearance for the motor.

The fixed table sets on four 5/16" bolts which allow for adjusting the table to be at the same plane as the TS table. The folding table section is mounted with a piano hinge and has two adjustable folding legs to support the rear-most portion of the table. The whole assembly can be removed by loosening four locknuts and pulling the table straight up. All that remains is the two pieces of tube stock which extend out about 13.5", even these can be removed by removing three bolts from each w/o affecting adjustment or alignment of the wings or router table. The table can easily be re-installed, setup, and leveled in less than 5 minutes.

Oh, in case you are wondering, the stool is not holding up the table. It does look like it in the one photo.

3824 3825 3826 3827

You can find more photos here:
http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking.htm

1/11/06 Fixed some typos (darn spell-checker can't spell worth a damn) :)
1/12/06 Added some additional measurements, revised some wording.
7/2708 Restored the photos that got disconnected from this post somehow.

Oh ya; Patent Pending, All photos Copyright 2005, Bob D. :)

[KenM]

Very good design and implementation, Bob.
In the first pic, I see adjustable braces running from the saw to the router table. Will you share some info on those, please?
Thanks, again a very good solution for an outfeed table.
Ken

[Bob D.]

The router table braces and the outfeed table legs were made from some sliding door security bars that I had picked up for $2 each a couple years ago at a flea market. They are telescoping aluminum and come with the folding bracket already attached. I have added some thumb screws (not visible in the photos) to be able to lock them in as the friction locking mechanism is not designed to work in a vertical position. Adding the thumbscrews was just a matter of drilling and tapping the outer tube so accept the thumbscrew. Then you just tighten the screw down on the inner tube at the desired length.

You could easily make a similar leg from a couple pieces of tube or square stock that telescoped one inside the other (3/4 x 3/4 scoped inside 1 x 1 for instance). Add a rubber pad on the foot end and use a couple short pieces of angle for brackets to attach to the underside of the table. I use a lot of aluminum because I have a source close by where I can find just about any shape/size for scrap prices ($2/lb), you could use steel or other materials, whatever you have available.

[KenM]

Thanks Bob.
Ken

[ironhat]

Nice implementation. I wish my shop wasn't so narrow! Anyway, I was wondering where you go the tray on the left side of your saw to hold misc attachments.
TIA,
Chiz

[Bob D.]

Chiz,

The wire rack was a closeout item for $9.99 at Sears made for their Craftsman Table Saw. There were two racks in the set, I put one on my TS and the other on my RAS. If you look close in the first pic you can see the RAS in the background and the rack underneath on the left side of the saw.

Ya know, the more I look at the wire rack I think it would be easy to make your own from a short piece of wire shelving. It's basically only two bends and you're done. Pop a few of those plastic caps on the cut ends and hang it and you are done.


Edit 2/17/06: The wire racks are still available from Sears, I found them on their site today, but they are $19.99.

Craftsman Saw Basket
Sears item #00932040000 Mfr. model #32040

[stephenl]

In looking at your setup, I'm wondering about you dust collection. Is that a box underneath that the PVC is connected to?

Steve

[Bob D.]

Sort of. It's a sloped bottom the pitches from the front down to the rear. To the rear leg gusset I added a piece of hardboard to close in an area big enough to accept a 4" closet flange which I used as my connector to my DC hose. The sides were also closed in using hardboard. The sloped (about 40 deg) bottom brings all the sawdust to the rear. I have not as yet closed in the back of the saw cabinet where the belt and blade guard are as some have done. I will probably work on that next. I have three tools that are serviced by that one dust hose which drops down in the center of the shop (no hoses on the floor for me, too much of a trip hazard), the TS-3650, a DW-735 Planer, and the Delta X5 6" Jointer. I unplug the hose and connect to whichever tool I am using, and I drag it over to the BS when needed. PITA but that's what I got for now.

[FINER9998]

Really Great Application. I Especially Like The Adjustability Of The Fixed Table, And By Extension (no Pun Intended) The Outfeed Table. I'm Sure I'll Have A Few Questions Regarding The Supports But For Now, Congrats On A Trully Elegant Solution To A Sometimes Difficult Problem.

[Bob D.]

Thanks everyone for the comments and I am glad you like my solution. I'll post some additional photos and comments later when I have time, maybe later today if I get out there to snap a few more pics.

Ok, here they are;

http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking/IMG_1535%20(Small).JPG

Hey, that table top is nice and clean huh? I polished it up just for these pics. No, not really, but I do take care of it. My 3650 is now 2 years old, and gets used at least once a week. This photo shows the 1/4" x 3" Aluminum flat bar installed between the left wing and the table top, see the bright colored strip?

http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking/IMG_1533%20(Small).JPG

This shows the 1.25" sq. tube bolted to the flat bar under the table and how it supports the fixed portion of the outfeed table. Leveling/alignment of the outfeed table is done by adjusting the four bolts that attach the fixed part to the square tube. This is easily done by laying a straight edge across the TS top in line with the bolts and adjusting the height of the outfeed table to just below that of the TS top.

In this photo you can also see the recess I routed on the underside of the table to achieve the clearance needed for the motor to tilt over to 45 degrees. This was a tip I picked up from another member when he made his outfeed table, but I re-positioned my motor slightly to gain a little more clearance (see my first post in this thread about that).

Also, in the second photo above you'll notice a piece of angle which runs the width of the table. This is a piece of 3/4" Aluminum angle roughly 30" long which adds strength to the fixed table section to prevent flexing. I didn't notice any, but added it just to be sure and keep the fixed section flat.

[Bob D.]

You can see more photos here;

http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking.htm

[steelewoodworker]

Bob,

How 'bout some photos of the accessory tray shown in the bottom right of the second photo above :cool: . I got all my accessories spread over too big an area.:D

Jerry

[Bob D.]

Hello Jerry,

Did you follow the link to my web page with about 15 additional photos?
I think about the fifth one there is a photo which shows the tray. Also see post #6 above by me answering this same Q from someone else.

[Bob D.]

Well, I have been using my outfeed table for about three and a half weeks now, and I gotta tell you it is great! Not necessarily the one I built, but having an outfeed table attached to the TS. I am sorry that I waited so long to build one, ripping and other operations are so much easier and safer now. I had been using a Ridgid FlipTop stand, and that worked well, but the table is better. I still have the FlipTop stand near the TS for extra long pieces, but have only needed it once so far.

If you have the room in your shop, you owe it to yourself to consider adding one to your TS. Even if you can't leave the folding part of the table up all the time, just the extra 14" the fixed table provides is helpful, and you can open up the folding section when needed.

What would I do different if I were to build another?

1. I could have made the folding table deeper (about another 6 inches w/o hitting the floor) to have even more table space behind the blade, but my shop is getting crowded as it is.

2. I would use 1" shorter bolts for mounting the fixed table to the support tubes, and I will probably cut mine down next time I take it off the saw.

3. I would have used a laminated ply or Formica to cover the top side, that would have looked nicer and provided a more durable surface.

[olilugo]

can you tell me where did you buy the legs for your outfeed table, I notice that you can size their hight...

Thanks,
olilugo

[steelewoodworker]

Bob D.,

Very pretty work and yes :) , I see how you added the tray.

Outfeed table is great addition :cool: :cool: !

Jerry

[Bob D.]

can you tell me where did you buy the legs for your outfeed table, I notice that you can size their hight...

Thanks,
olilugo

See post number 3 in this thread.

[skipsax]

Great stuff Bob. Thanks again.

[Henry 55]

bob, do you ever have problems with the wood your cutting get cought in the opening for the blade gaurd? what it the size of that opening? Really like the design.

[Bob D.]

bob, do you ever have problems with the wood your cutting get cought in the opening for the blade gaurd? what it the size of that opening? Really like the design.

Henry, I am guessing you are referring to the photos where I have the stock throat plate installed on the TS. Yes, it can be a problem. I usually don't use the stock plate but one of my ZCIs which you can a see in the tray on the left of the TS below the wing.

[Henry 55]

Bob, I'm sorry for not being clear about the question. The outfeed table that you attached to the table saw has a cut out for the blade gaurd so you can attach it to your saw. Have you had any problems with that opening for the blade gaurd catching a board while ripping stock? thanks
Henry

[Bob D.]

Oh, OK, I understand your question now.

No, to date I have not had a problem. I have the outfeed table positioned just slightly below the TS table height by about 1//16" or less. The leading edge of the outfeed table, that is the edge closest to the TS, is rounded over also. The depth front to back of the opening for the blade guard/splitter is about 4.5" (guessing here, I am not in the shop to measure it right now). For a piece to sag or drop down and catch on the outfeed table it would have to be pretty flimsily I think. I've made plenty of cuts where the offcut piece was less than the width of that opening, and none have been caught or jammed as yet. It could happen of course, I could win the Power Ball Lottery too, but it doesn't seem too likely.

It was something I considered and I kept the opening as small as possible without interfering with the guard and splitter over its normal operating range. That's why the right edge of the opening is cut on a 45. As the motor and blade swing up to the right when adjusting the bevel angle, the guard of course moves with them.

Edit 3/18/06: I just re-read my response above and wanted to add that the open space to the left of the blade guard/splitter is needed to be able to remove and install the guard. When you loosen the thumbscrew on the guard to remove it you have to slide the guard to the left (as viewed from the front of the TS) off the post a couple inches, that's why that opening is there.

[Ken524]

Bob,

I have a new 3650 saw and I would like to build your outfeed table. I'm also impressed with the MuleCab router table and would like to add that as well.

After sifting through all your posts and pics, I'm still not clear how you installed the 3" flatbar between the right wing and your MuleCab router table.

Did you have to machine holes in the right edge of the right wing to attach the router table and flatbar with bolts like the left side?

Thanks!
Cordially,
Ken H.

[acemery]

Sort of. It's a sloped bottom the pitches from the front down to the rear. To the rear leg gusset I added a piece of hardboard to close in an area big enough to accept a 4" closet flange which I used as my connector to my DC hose. The sides were also closed in using hardboard. The sloped (about 40 deg) bottom brings all the sawdust to the rear. I have not as yet closed in the back of the saw cabinet where the belt and blade guard are as some have done. I will probably work on that next. I have three tools that are serviced by that one dust hose which drops down in the center of the shop (no hoses on the floor for me, too much of a trip hazard), the TS-3650, a DW-735 Planer, and the Delta X5 6" Jointer. I unplug the hose and connect to whichever tool I am using, and I drag it over to the BS when needed. PITA but that's what I got for now.I just got a new TS3650 and find the DC setup to be a PITA. Some detail pics of your setup would be great!:)

Thanks,

Al

[Reef12]

So when is Ridgid coming out with their outfeed table anybody Know?

Or just stray gossip:rolleyes:

Sorry for the Hijacking:eek:

[FSK]

Bob,

I have a new 3650 saw and I would like to build your outfeed table. I'm also impressed with the MuleCab router table and would like to add that as well.

After sifting through all your posts and pics, I'm still not clear how you installed the 3" flatbar between the right wing and your MuleCab router table.

Did you have to machine holes in the right edge of the right wing to attach the router table and flatbar with bolts like the left side?

Thanks!
Cordially,
Ken H.

Hi Bob,

I like this design since it moves with the table. Did you consider mounting the support bars to the sheet metal base of the table, instead of between the table and the wings? Did you, or do you, see a problem doing it that way? I would like to avoid having to take off the wings, plus I don't have a supply of aluminum so I would probaby need to use angle iron or something.

Your insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Frank

[Bob D.]

Hi Frank,

I looked at attaching a couple pieces of angle to the cabinet (sheet metal) under the table top, but the problem with the supports being in that close to the motor on the right (as viewed from the front of the saw) is that it will interfere with tilting the motor. It would also lead to problems when turning the blade tilt hand wheel, there is barely enough hand clearance as it is, placing anything else in there would just lead to skinned knuckles or frustration.

I also thought about fabricating a couple brackets that would mount to the back of the saw cabinet, and I went as far as to make them and try them out, but again ran into interference problems with the motor.

Removing the left hand wing is not that difficult. If you make use of the opening in the table top and use a couple clamps and 2x4s, you can support the wing from above.

Having the outfeed table be mobile with the saw and not require additional casters was another item I wanted. With the design I came up with the legs fold up underneath the outfeed table and the table folds down clearing the floor by about 8". When the table is folded down it does not project out the back much more than the motor, maybe 3". the width of the fixed portion of the outfeed was selected to allow this and take up as little room as possible for storage. I didn't want to have to completely remove the table and stow it somewhere in the shop, when I need the extra floor space I just fold it down in less than a minute.

You could use a ooiece of steel flatbar if that is easier to come by, but you should coat it so as to avoid rusting. I'd bet that aluminum flatbar is easier to find in your area than you think, check the Yellow Pages or stop by a machine shop and ask them for sources if they don't have any.

You can also order online from various places, here's the place I bought my aluminum. (http://www.ordermetal.com/index.html)

[Mountaineer]

Bob I know I'm late on this post but I have to say, thats one fine table.

[sborder]

Bob D

You inspried me to build this TS outfeed extension. Thanks for the idea and the detailed pictures...:)

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/table-saw-outfeed-extension.jpg

Steve

[wwsmith]

Wow Steve. That is a really nice looking outfeed table. Nice job! (I also like your Norm router bench in the backround. I may attempt that sometime this year if I get the courage).

WWS

PS: Your TS looks cleaner than mine did coming out of the box! Which saw is that?

[FINER9998]

That is a great looking outfeed table. Now that you've revealed it, how about a few more detailed photos and some particulars. What was the method you used to mount the fixed table to the saw? Any info is appreciated.

[FINER9998]

BTW..What provision is made for a blade guard/splitter/riving knife? Thanks.

[sborder]

The TS is a Craftsman 1999 Model 10" 315.228510. It was my Father's.
Building Norm's router table was a fun project, although I'm thinking about converting one of the bit drawers over to a standard drawer, one drawer on the top is just not enough.

As far as mounting the fixed table to the TS, I used 3" wide flat aluminum and 1.25" square aluminum tubing. Drilled holes in the end of the cast iron TS extension and fastened the aluminum to the side like so.

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/ts-extension-side.jpg

This is pretty much like Bob D's design. I didn't need to cut the bottom out to allow for the 45 degree cut. Beleive me I checked to make sure that wouldn't be a problem.

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/ts-extension-underside.jpg


For the 13" fixed extension I used a stair tread which is 1 1/8" thick trimmed in oak. For the folding extension part I used 3/4 mdf and made the oak trim the same height as on the fixed piece, other wise you'll run into an issue with your piano hinge mounting.

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/ts-extension-front.jpg

No provision was made for the blade guard, splitter or riving knife. (I must admit I don't know what a riving knife is).. I counted the times that I have ever used a blade guard in the past 53 years and I discovered that I never use a blade guard so I made my TS extension accordingly. I could change it if the need arose so who knows.

I basically followed Bob D's design, there are a couple of differences, just like there is anytime you build something to suite your needs.

Steve

[FINER9998]

Thanks for the additional photos and the information. I asked about the splitter since everything I have ever read about table saw safety refers to it. In mounting the piano hinger to the fold down table, the oak trim of the fold down table in one of the photos doesn't look wide enough to accept the screws. Am I missing something? I understand that the fixed table is more "substantial" so as to avoid flexing due to the distance between the 1.25" mounting bars. What did you use for the folding legs? Cudos on the first rate project.

[sborder]

I have never used a splitter.

The oak trim is 3/4" wide which is wide enough for the piano hinge.

The folding legs were made from 7/8" square aluminum tubing with a 3" long piece of oak cut to fit inside of the tubing (tight), fastened in with 2 screws. Then I drilled a hole in the center of the oak and screwed in a brass threaded insert and just used a 2" bolt to adjust the leg height. The mounting point for the leg was made from some left over 1.25" tubing with one side cut out.

Then I had a couple of lid brackets that I used to keep the legs from folding out.

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/ts-extension-legs1.jpg

http://www.budgetlighting.com/shop-tools/ts-extension-legs2.jpg

Hope that helps.

Steve

[FINER9998]

Many thanks for the very useful photos and information. I'm assuming you used formica for the table tops as you noted oak and mdf previously. Really a great job. It looks very attractive and functional.

[Bob D.]

Nice job Steve, I like it.

My table legs are pretty much like yours, except I found a use for some hardware other than it was meant to be used since the price was right. I used some epoxy to stick a couple magnets to the legs and underside of the table to hold them when folded up.

[sborder]

Thanks Bob, When I went looking several months ago for an outfeed table I came across your posting and thought What A Great Idea! Now big stuff will be cut much easier.

I guess I should look at some more of your posts to see what other ideas you might have.

One project I want to tackle soon is a work station for my DeWalt sliding compound saw. Norm has a good set up but it's for a regular miter saw. So I'm looking...

Thanks again for your inspiration.

Steve

[FINER9998]

SBORDER....As I set about planning a similar table, what method did you use to attach the oak trim to the mdf? Also, are both fixed and folding table topped with formica? Any thought on using melamine coated flat stock? Thanks.

[sborder]

The oak trim was fastened with biscuits, a person could use pocket screws.
I guess with using mdf I feel safer with biscuits.

Both fixed and folding portions are formica. I don't see why melamine wouldn't work, except any melamine that I have ever seen isn't very stout, but then there may be a commercial grade product some place.

The formica isn't cheep mine was about $90.00, maybe I'm not buying it at the best place. :(

When you get yours done I'd like to see it. It's always great to get ideas from other woodworkers.

Steve

[leodsmith]

The folding out feed is a greatt idea. I'll plan on one myself, only a shorter version. Maybe even without the hinge.

What I am really interested in is fashioning a router table into the same spot as the one I see in the photo.

I'd be interested in anyone's thoughts on this.

My main question is how does it interact with the 3650 fence and t-slot?

Can this really replace the router table for fine work?

I just bought my 3650 and the Ridgid 10" mitre saw. Both are very nice.

I'm also considering a new router and saw the new ridgid 2.25 horse. Looks good but I wonder about mounting plates.

Thanks in advance!!!

[sloughin]

Bob D.'s design is very nice, and I like it alot, but I don't have quite so much room. I just finished this one which I made from a 2x4' sheet of melamine clad MDF.

http://www.oldhaverford.org/pvt/Woodworking/pix/OutFeedTbl.jpg

Excuse the clamps you see, they are just holding some spacers that are glued (and were later also screwed) into the bottom of the MDF. The spacers have captive 3/8" carriage bolts that hold the front of the table just below (1/32") the trailing edge of the saw table.

The table is attached to the saw by two L-channel steel braces. The one on the right is cut-away partially to allow for clearance of the motor at a full 45 degree tilt.

I also simply enlarged the existing holes that were provided in the arbor housing so they could accommodate a 1/4-20 machine screw, and attached my L-channel to that.

http://www.oldhaverford.org/pvt/Woodworking/pix/SteelInPlace.jpg

The back is supported by wooden legs that pivot down and adjust to my uneven floor. I biscuited a 3/4 x 1-1/2" rail along the back to keep the whole affair flat. I'm working up a drawing (in Google Sketchup) that I can post here. Perhaps Bob will do the same?

[hilligan]

Wish I'd found this forum 6 months ago. I've been wracking my brain on how to build an outfeed extension that moved with my saw and yall had the answers all along. Just about the time I get to thinking I am the smartest guy in the universe, I run across folks like yall that humble me. Thanks to all of you.
I'll be baaaaaack.
(((Sorry, too much Terminator)))

[L Turner]

I would be interested in seeing the drawings if you have had time to get them done.

[hobby32092]

I finally caved and bought myself a TS3650. I wanted to go ahead and put in the extension arms for an outfeed while I was assembling the table, and I liked Bob's design here, the best. But I ran into a snag.

After driving to and fro across town all weekend, I've been unable to find 3" aluminum bar. The best option I find is 2" aluminum or 3" welding steel, neither of which are good options as I understand it.

Suggestions?

[sloughin]

Just to reiterate my suggestion, see the photos a few posts up from yours, where I show how to attach the angle steel that is typically sold in big box stores for about $10 for a 6' length. I reamed out the existing holes in the top of the cabinet just under the top, (they were for for routing the AC cord) to fit a 1/4-20 bolt. If you add legs to the back of the table, these angled extensions are plenty stiff enough to do the job, and if you want your table to be removeable, you can cut the angle, then quickly bolt the sections together. A slice of 3/4 plywood between the top of the angle and the bottom of the 3/4 MDF extension table (with maybe a washer or two for additional spacing) provided a surface that is just a tad below the saw table (so you don't catch the leading edge of the extension table when pushing the work through the saw.) Post me again if you can't see the photo for some reason and I'll send you an alternate link.

Best regards,
-- Steve.

[hobby32092]

If worse comes to worse, I may try that. I'd just prefer the greater stability of a direct bolt connection to the cast iron surface rather than bolting to the casing.

[AngryBeaver]

cool design, funny cuz I was just about to post a few pics of a 1" thick particleboard that I intend to use for the outfeed table I am currently working on. It's laminated (formica/plastic) and the pics I am posting show how clean the cuts were made with my Ridgid combo blade with zero chip/tearout. The table I am working on will bolt up to the TS, but, I am in the design stage of making it so it "swings down/ folds down when not in use. It will or should swing down and hang behind the motor so we'll see how that turns out.

[hobby32092]

I've found a few places online that sell small quantity aluminum. You can get 5' of .25"x3" flatbar for $18-20, plus shipping (for those that may be interested).

[jgardner]

Hey, I've never posted on this forum so I thought it's time to as I have received benefit from the wisdom here. I did go with the original design and mine looks identical. I purchased all my metal at the following link (http://www.metalsdepot.com/) Here are the details...

Stock Number: T311418
Product Type: 6063 Aluminum Square Tube
Description: 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 1/8 wall
Quantity: 2
Length: 4.0000 ft.
Item Total: $32.40

Stock Number: F4143
Product Type: 6061 Aluminum Flat
Description: 1/4 X 3
Quantity: 2
Length: 4.0000 ft.
Item Total: $46.48

I wanted a thicker side wall (1/4") but that isn't possible without going with larger tube. I consulted with my brother in law who does this stuff for a living and he said it should support the weight. He was wrong.

So basically my recommendation is that you put wood in the aluminum tube if you go with the thiner side wall. After hanging for only a week both my extension tubes started to bend. About 1/8". I basically addressed that by supporting the extension when it's hanging. Let me know if you want me to post pictures and I will happly help you out.

Also, I tried the extension rods to support the table when extended. That didn't work either. So going with a post and buying the correct hardware is the way to go.

As far as the router table I just purchased the Bench Dog router table leaf and bolted it on. I love it!

Bottom line...it's a good solution no matter how you slice it (Thanks Bob D.)!

Good luck!

[hobby32092]

Just got back from Lowe's. I'm going with .125"x3" flatbar steel for the drop from the table and 1.25"x1.25"x.125" for the tubes. I'll be coating it all with 2 or 3 layers of Rustoleum after I drill the holes (bright Orange Rustoleum, of course). I'm kinda just hoping that the superior strength of steel makes up for using thinner metal. Guess time will tell.

I ended up getting exterior electrical conduit for the support legs. It was far cheaper than any of the other options, and let's face it, the support legs just have to not wobble too much to do their job.

The good part is I haven't fully assembled the saw since I opened the box, so I'll be putting in the extensions from the start. I don't have a lot of time in the evenings, but I'm trying to make a little progress each night. I hope to have pictures to post sometime this weekend. I'm looking forward to a bright orange stripe down down the wing lines :D

[leer13]

After seeing the stuff here, I just had to build my own!

The outfeed supports are 2 1/2 inch angle aluminun that I got from my neighbor. I drilled holes to correspond to the existing holes in the body of the saw. You can see the aluminum through the gaps in the table saw wings.

I need to make a shim for the right side supprt to square things up a little better.

The table is 3/4 inch MDF finished with the ubiquetous (in my shop) tung oil.

There is a layer of 3/4 inch plywood between the alunimum and the MDF. The top of the outfeed table is aboput 1/8 lower than the saw table.

The whole thing is bolted together with 1/4 inch carriage bolts and lock washers.

[djb]

The table is 3/4 inch MDF finished with the ubiquetous (in my shop) tung oil.

Are you telling us you do slovenly work...? :p

Nice outfeed table. I think that's next for my 3650.

- djb

[Bob D.]

Concerning metalsdepot.com ;

I looked at their site, and checked prices on a couple sizes of angle and flat bar. In my opinion they are a bit high. I suggest you look at the following place which is where I bought my aluminum: www.ordermetal.com (http://www.ordermetal.com)

I think if you email them with a list of the material you need, you will find that the pricing will be better than that at metalsdepot.com

If anyone has done so, I would be interested to hear what prices they quote over the internet vice making a purchase in person which is how I bought since they are only 20 minutes away.

I am guesstimating cause I bought a bunch of other material at the same time about 2 years ago but I'll bet I didn't spend more then $15 for all the aluminum I used in making my outfeed table including the 1-1/2" (open width) x 48" nickle-plated piano hinge that I also got there for $3, so that's < $12 for the aluminum which typically is $2/lb IIRC.

My BOM for the metal parts I bought from Fazzio's(ordermetals.com):

Quan. Desc.
(2) - 1/4" x 27" AL Flat Bar
(2) - 1-1/2" AL Sq. Tube, 41.25" long
(1) - 1/8" x 3/4" AL Angle, 30" Long
(1) - 1-1/2" x 48" Piano Hinge, Nickle Plated

I'd be surprised if Fazzio's prices today would top $40 including shipping for all the above material.

If you buy from Fazzio's or anywhere else, I would order your stock at least an inch or two long so you can trim to final dimension yourself and be sure your cuts are square.
---

[hobby32092]

Bob,

I got a quote from them on Thursday (after having bought my supplies elsewhere), and they were pretty expensive. More than the previously mentioned website, anyway. You must be getting some sort of scrap deal as opposed to full retail price.

PS - I've been working on assembling my saw all week, and I keep popping bolts when tightening them. I'm up to 3 sheered bolts now, and I don't even have the saw standing up yet. If this is any indication of how the rest of my experience with the saw is going to be, I'm already disappointed.

[Bob D.]

Wow, I'm surprised (and sorry) to hear that about their internet pricing.

Yes, when I am there buying it is at scrap prices. Shame they are greedy when selling to people outside the area. I am assuming it is the same material stockpiles that are the source of the online and scrap material I have bought there.

Well, best thing then it to search out a similar local source in your neck of the woods, there is bound to be one. Might be an hour away, but if the price is right then that couple gallons of gas will be recovered fast.

Guess I won't be pushing Fazzio's to anyone outside the area any longer, their loss.

[hobby32092]

Thank you for your inquiry. Your quote is as follows:

2 pcs - 1/4 x 3 alum flatbar x 12 ft. = $ 25.80/ea

2 pcs - 1-1/4 x 1/8 sq alum tube x 20 ft. = $33.70/ea

Prices do not include 7% NJ sales tax or freight/delivery if applicable.

Please let us know if we can be of further assistance. We appreciate the opportunity to quote and look forward to supplying your material needs in the near future.

JOSEPH FAZZIO, INC.

Well over $100 for the aluminum, before shipping, though they very well might have botched the total lengths. Here was my quote request:
2 pcs 1/4" x 3" aluminum flatbar 30" long
2 pcs 1 1/4" aluminum square tube, 1/8" thickness, 48" long.

Why on earth they quoted me for the lengths in my quote I have no idea. But that's what I asked for and got as a resposne.

[rnt80]

I just finished building my outfeed table and I've had the opportunity to use it a couple of times. Bob D., thanks for the idea. It has already made things much safer and easier. I changed couple of things on my table. I used 3" steel instead of aluminum between the wings. Instead of using the 1.25" aluminum square tubes I used perforated steel tubing. It was a lot easier to attach (less holes to drill) and it is really strong. I had some maple laying around so I used it to edge the table. It really improves the strength of the melamine and kind of adds a nice touch to it. Thanks again Bob!

[garager]

Nice job rnt80, looks great, nice tools in the back ground too. thanks for sharing the pictures.

[Bob D.]

Well over $100 for the aluminum, before shipping, though they very well might have botched the total lengths. Here was my quote request:
2 pcs 1/4" x 3" aluminum flatbar 30" long
2 pcs 1 1/4" aluminum square tube, 1/8" thickness, 48" long.

Why on earth they quoted me for the lengths in my quote I have no idea. But that's what I asked for and got as a resposne.


If you got one length of each it is $59.50 + shipping. And sipping on 12 and 20 ft lengths would be outta sight.

I may get over there tomorrow. They are only open till Noon on Sat. so not sure I will have time in the AM. I'll check on the prices and see. Maybe we could do a "group buy" where I could pick up some long lengths and then cut to 48" pieces and send out to those who want it. You could use steel sq tube which you should be able to get at any hardware store or home center. Paint it up and it will look nice. 1/4" steel flat bar would work too. You'll want to paint this also so you don't have to deal with rust.

All in all I like the aluminum better. Its got to be available relatively close to you just about anywhere. Check the yellow pages for some place the does machining or an aluminum dealer and ask about where you can pick up small quantities.

[Hooligan]

OK. I just gotta ask. With the possible exception of leer13's table ('cause I see what may be counter sunk holes for bolts) how do you guys attach the table to the angle iron.

As a side note, I've been to the bigbox stores as well as a sort of "Restore" where they sell used or excess building materials, and I can't find any MDF that's laminated.

[VASandy]

Get regular MDF, and purchase some laminate from anywhere. Our local big-box stores don't like to sell just laminate any more, so they'll sometimes have a "return" in the store they're willing to sell cheap. Make sure the laminate sheet is at least a little bigger than the MDF piece you have. You'll want some overhang on all sides.

Get some laminate glue and some really cheap rollers. Apply the glue to both the MDF and the bottom surface of the laminate. Make sure both surfaces are totally covered w/the glue. Place a few thin strips of wood or other material (at least 1/2" thick) on the MDF. Wait for the glue to lose it's "tack"...it'll fell just about dry (follow the instructions on the glue container). Place the laminate sheet over the MDF, on the stickers. Once the sheet is aligned, start pulling out the stickers, starting from the middle and work to one side then the other. As you pull out a sticker, press the laminate down firmly onto the MDF and make sure there's no air bubbles. Once all the stickers are removed, roll the surface once more. You can pretty much immediately route the top to trim the laminate to the exact size. Use a router with a straight bit with a guide bearing on the bottom for the best results.

With MDF, I'd prefer to edge-band. Use any material you have, and edge-band all around the exposed MDF. Just glue it on, or use biscuits if you have any.

Laminating material isn't really that difficult. The important thing to remember is that as SOON as the glue touches, the laminate is there for good. Be careful laying the glued sheet on the stickers over the glued subsurface. Align the sheet, keeping your overhang. Doesn't matter if the overhang is even, as you'll be trimming to exact size later. The second the two glued surfaces touch, they are together for good.

[Hooligan]

Thanks for the tutorial VASandy. I'll give it a try. Question still remains, how do you attach the table to the angle iron without drilling holes thru the top?

[VASandy]

Screw the angle to the bottom of the panel! ;)

MDF is sometimes tricky to get screws to work. You'll need specific screws to use with it, and I'd probably use some super-glue along with the screws.

[Hooligan]

Think I'll countersink for some bolts like what I believe leer13 did. The bolts would make it easier to adjust for height.

[sauk_98]

Hi Guys. I made a wooden bax and covered it with 3/4" plywood that I laminated. I just drilled holes in the side of the box and attached it to the rails with 5/16 bolts. here's a link with pics of what I did and the fence I made to go with it. nLet me know what you guys and gals think. Always open to new ideas for improvement.

http://woodandwax.googlepages.com/toolsandjigs

[VASandy]

Looks like a great addition. Nice work on the box. It certainly seems sturdy enough, even without the metal L-bracket.

I know a lot of the people here mention putting so much weight on the far end of the saw causing problems. You may want to look into a way of attaching legs to help support the end of your router table.

[sauk_98]

I have thought about legs, but the table seems stable. I have thought about support for the rails though

[Whitey's]

Very nice work on all the outfeed tables shown here. I was wondering if anybody has tried the Rockler outfeed table? It's about $89.00 and through the weekend they are offering 20% off. The outfeed table is 24" x 36".

My shop is very tight and I like the idea of being able to take the entire table off. Any thoughts?

[mijohnst]

I've been looking at this thread for over a year and found it when looking for an outfeed table for my table... and now it's my turn to post. It's not perfect, but I think it will do the job. Thank you all for the ideas... I've taken a little from you all and some from Norm Abram. Anyway, I'm excited to cut something big. Thanks again!

http://lh3.google.com/mijohnst/R3cuKlIlEzI/AAAAAAAADtQ/Cim2nl-klMY/s800/IMG_0020.JPG

http://lh3.google.com/mijohnst/R3cuMlIlE0I/AAAAAAAADtY/u-wvWTyqGKc/s800/IMG_0021.JPG

http://lh5.google.com/mijohnst/R3cuOFIlE1I/AAAAAAAADtg/_rG891FAZis/s800/IMG_0022.JPG

[niki]

MDF is sometimes tricky to get screws to work. You'll need specific screws to use with it, and I'd probably use some super-glue along with the screws.

You are correct, I'm using such a method

Loooong time ago I was in the "Radio controlled flying models"...on those small airplanes, the engine cowls and other panels where attached with screws because we had to open/close them many times.

But as you know, Balsa is very soft wood and after 2~3 times of open/close the threads in the Balsa were "eaten" and the screw did not hold anymore...

So we had a "patent".... CA (Cyanoacrylate, aka, super glue)...till today, I use this method for jigs or anything that I have to screw/unscrew many times or re-enforce holes especially in MDF, Chipboard and Plywood.

First I drill pilot hole, then, I screw-in the screw to the end, take the screw out, flood the threaded hole with CA and wait some 10 minutes till the CA is totally absorbed in and the thread is dry and now, the area becomes strong like an iron.
I screw again the screw in/out 2~3 times and that's it...

I put CA also on the countersink area so when I screw-in the screw, the screw head will not "sink-in" after a few "screw in/screw out"

Hope it helps

Regards
niki

[Tombed]

Hello, it's one of my first post, but here's some pics of my new Outfeet Table, thanks you guys for "inspiration" :D

More pics on my French web site !!
http://www.tomybedard.com/f.html

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/rallonge1.jpg

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/rallonge3.jpg

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/IMG_2808.JPG

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/IMG_2827.JPG

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/IMG_2817.JPG

http://www.tomybedard.com/images/rallonge/IMG_2853.JPG

[Tombed]

**

[Tombed]

**

[Boogatoo]

Here is mine:
the plan is available in the 2006 Best-Ever Workshop Solution magazine at www.woodmagazine.com (http://www.woodmagazine.com)

[smelly]

c'est tres bien, j'aime bien ca.....(translation)

that real nice just what I need
:party-on:

[Boogatoo]

Ben moé si j'aime ça! surtout que ça a pris seulement 2 jours à faire.

I like it too, specially that it took only 2 days to complete.

[a1gutterman]

I like your table Tombed!

[Boogatoo]

Tombed, is this a beer mug ring on your table?

[Tombed]

Tombed, is this a beer mug ring on your table?

Maybe :plumbdog:

[jtpryan]

The links in the original message don't go anywhere anymore. Is there another location of the pics?

-Jim

[smelly]

ya the attachments dont work for me
:poke:

[Bob D.]

The links in the original message don't go anywhere anymore. Is there another location of the pics?

-Jim

http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=45988&postcount=11

[levon]

Bob D

i noticed some angle iron underneath the outfeed on the fixed portion of the table. also is there some on the foldable section of the table, can you show some pics from underneath both sections and what you may have used? i really likethe table and i know its a lot of problem, but it would help some people like me who are really novices. also could you give us the technique you used to add the dadoes that extend the miter tracks? thamk you for sharing with us. levon

[levon]

Bob D

i used to use rollers for my old ryobi for mostly working on redoing projects around the house. yesterday after using my new 3660, i am now drooling over your outfeed table. you did a nice job on it are i know you had to reposition motor and figure out your way past all the usual obstructions. great work!

[spinkid]

Well, Thanks to all these I have finally made my own. Thanks Bob D. Well, mine is a bit different as I did not want the flip up table. I don't always have enough room to flip something that big up as there are usually too many things going on in my garage. I used the basic design to get the first section that seems to be the staple of the design, but I modified it to fit my needs. I made it extendable!!!! Yeah for me... (feel the excitment). I got some 1 1/2 inch tubing 1/8 inch thick sidewall. Bought from local metal supply shop that specializes in small quantities. I then made some solid oak runners to fit inside. I had my uncle mill out the top of the aluminum to allow for my bolts to travel and be able to get the extension close to the saw. I then dadoed the oak sides to allow for the bolts that hold the tubing, and basically bolted everything up the way its posted here. I know have a full 32 inches from the back edge of the table to the back edge of the extension when fully extended. Sorry for being so long winded, here are some pictures.

The runner does not extend past the table, it is just the camera angle.

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/1115/frombackst9.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frombackst9.jpg)

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/2920/fromfrontbk5.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fromfrontbk5.jpg)

And now fully extended
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/4527/frontextenduz2.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontextenduz2.jpg)

Some more of the mounting and milling:
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/6325/underzd4.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=underzd4.jpg)
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/62/slot2zs4.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slot2zs4.jpg)
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/1755/slot1eh5.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slot1eh5.jpg)

[Bob D.]

Nice! And a great space-saving idea too. I like it. My design was nothing exotic, but I am glad it has spawned so many variations that fit each persons individual needs.