Humidifier

[Pipestone Kid]

I have an Aprilaire humidifier on my furnace. Last summer I installed a 100,000 btu furnace (Heil) to replace a 70,00 btu (Goodman) that wouldn't keep up in really cold weather. The humidifier worked fine in the past (windows would really frost up if I forgot to turn down the humidistat in really cold weather) but since the new furnace is in, it doesn't do the job. I've put in a new media, checked that the air flow is coming through the duct from the humidifier, and watched to be sure the water is flowing through the media as it should. Everything seems to be o.k. Two questions--1. Would the speed of the fan have anything to do with this? (The fan is at the medium setting) and 2. Would the increase in BTU's have an effect? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Jim

[wbrooks]

I had a similar problem with my flow through style humidifier. What I did was hooked up an in-line booster fan (from HD) wired off the furnace control board to come on with the main blower during the heat cycle.

[Pipestone Kid]

Wayne: Did that solve the Problem? I seem to have a lot of air flowing through, but maybe it isn't enough. Sounds like it might be worth a try. Thanks for the response.
Jim

[wbrooks]

It helps a lot, I can get the humidity to stay over 30% when it is really cold, where as before the upgrade I was in the low 20's with really bad static. Now I rarely get a static shock. It was a cheep fix and seem to work well enough. The real solution I think is an outside air exchanger

[dietz]

Jim,
I sell this equip for a living (wholesaler). Some of the isssues are: Is the model you have a bypass style (sounds like it may be this type) or is it mounted directly to the plenum ? What is the square footage of your home ? (some of the bypass units will only handle so many sq. ft.) Also one thing you can also do to help is attach the feed line onto your hot water side about six inches up off the tank (hot water will atomize quicker than cold !) I agree in saying your best bet would be a fresh air exchanger but this may not be feasible.
Your fan speed setting is fine (medium for heating). This may sound stupid but make sure if there is a damper its in the correct position, and the the humidistat is set to approx 35%.

Ted

[Pipestone Kid]

Thanks a lot for the reply, guys. TED: The humidifier is attached directly to the plenum. (I will try to post a pic later, if I can make it work) Square footage is about 2200--Story and a half house total sq. ft. Water is attached to the hot side-about two feet from the tank. Before I changed furnaces, I could make water run off the windows easily if I set the humidistat high enough. No such luck now--even at 20 below zero. The unit is on the same plenum--didn't have to change that. ????????

[Pipestone Kid]

Ted: I tried to post a pic, but it was too big for the forum--I don't know how to reduce it to be able to post it.
Jim

[senator91]

I wonder if it's wired differently. I mean what has really changed? 30,000 BTU's shouldn't prevent it from being effective. Maybe it was connected to run longer previously. i.e. wired to fan instead of ventor motor. If your furnace has taps for humid. and EAC, try wiring it to the EAC taps. That may give it a longer run time and help a bit. The only other thing I can think of is if the orifice is partially blocked and water flow is less than before.

[dietz]

I agree nothing in the setup changed except for the increase in BTU's (except for any variance in the way it was / is hooked up. Are you hearing the solenoid open and flow water at the same moment that the t-stat calls for heat ? If it is mounted directly to the plenum, then it is what we call a power style. This has fan assist (is it running ??). Do you remember at what point in the heating cycle it turned on with the old furnace compaired to how it comes on now ??

[Pipestone Kid]

Dietz and Senator91: It is wired the same as it was before--solenoid opens and closes with the furnace fan.(No fan assist on this model) Lots of water flowing through the media. I will check for EAC taps and give that a try if they are there. Just to give a recap--I thoroughly cleaned the unit, put in a new media, wired the same as before, goes on and off with the blower(circulates the air past the heating panels, not the power vent) I will let you know about the EAC. Thanks,

Jim

[senator91]

Keep in mind the voltages if you're thinking of changing taps. Some humid. connections are 24v. and EAC taps tend to be 120v. You don't want to blow the solenoid coil.

[Pipestone Kid]

My humidifier taps are 120 volt--I had to put in a transformer. Thanks, Jim
UPDATE: Did some sleuthing and discovered that the humidifier tap went off with the burner. EAC tap goes off with the circulating fan. Moved to EAC and am trying that. Will let you know the results. Thanks again.

[wbrooks]

Pipestone, here is the pic you sent me of your setup
152

[Pipestone Kid]

Thanks for posting the pic, Wayne. If you ever get near Bigfork, Mn. (75 miles south of Fort Frances Ont.) the cold ones are on me!!

[wiarticfox]

lack of run time due to increase of btus. either a bigger unit or turning the fan switch to on and powering the unit on a fan call. you will want to hook it to the cold water side for this. or you can get a sticker shock $. also check the temp rise on the unit for fun.




fox

[Pipestone Kid]

Fox, by turning the fan switch to on, do you mean continuous running? The unit now goes on and off with the fan. What do you mean by "check the temp rise of the unit"--does that mean the humidifier or the furnace? Thanks, Jim

[wiarticfox]

yes . 24 hour fan . this is the only way to get more run time now with out bakeing your self out of the house. the humid will run more but only on a call on the humidstat. as long as it is powered by the fan. the reason u move the water line to the cold is it will cost $ becuse it will run a lot more and it cost a lot to heat water. your evaperation will be less due to cooler air temp also so you may want to throttle the water feed down a little, but you get a lot more run time. u dont want to shut it down to much becuse u want water to still wash the minerals down the drain off the pad . the problem with putting a bigger furnace in is if it is not set up right it will eat itself. gas pressure and temp rise and dirty filters are the biggest killers of effency and death of the heat exchanger. look on the name plate inside the door of the unit ( furnace) . usally on the left or right side. it will say temp rise of ( example of 2 ) 35 to 65 or 40 to 70 . this is the difference in tempture of the supply (hot) minus the return ( cold ) if u are greater poor effency, it eats parts , short cycles , crackes heatexchangers. if u are less than that it condenses to early rotting out the heat exchanger and lack of buts . take 2 thermonthers stick one in the return drop and the other in a round out of line of radiation sight of the heat exchanger on the supply side. if to hot speed up the fan if to cold slow down the fan. if the fan cant go higher ill let u know a couple of tricks at a later date.

here is the difference 30,000 can make . and yes there are exceptions ( heat loss, winter design temp. heat gain ). but a 1000 sq ft house at 30 btus a ft ( new houses tend to take 30 to 35 btus a foot ) general rule depending on ins factor

a 6" round can push 100cfm of air (general rule depending on length and elb )
a 45,000 btu furnace will work on 6 heat runs
a 70,000 on the same ducts wont ( over temp ) and yes this is just one type and keeping both variables the same.

ps rember to turn the humid off in summer.
pss i have a 80,000 btu 2 stage and it walks with a 1940 2 story farm house 1500 sqft easy. only kicks on high after 10 min of constant run usally when -1 or colder

fox


from the color of the unit a it looks like a goodman. furn

[wiarticfox]

i got a new 1210 threader today . has any one herd of any issues with these?


thanks fox

[Pipestone Kid]

OK, an update. I have checked the temp differential as fox instructed and have subsequently set the fan on low. (runs much longer now and fits the recommendations) I also installed a booster fan in the line from the humidifier to the return air. (wired with the fan) I have water taps on both hot and cold so I can choose. :-) Current status is--House is comfortable and I think the humidity is rising. The only clue I have at present is both my Better Half and myself have less of a "dry nose " problem. I am sure it takes a while for a dried out house to get up to speed. Thanks to everybody for their help.

Jim

[tomgeer]

Providing that your humidafier is wired in the same way as befor the new furnace, it sounds like your higher btu's is meeting your demand faster and not allowing the humidafier to run long enough. plus don't forget, as the air is being heated it's also being dried.

[tinman]

sounds like the new furnace with higher BTU's is satisfing the Tstat faster than the old furnace and it is not running long enough to fill the need for humidity.
wire it so the humidistat can operate the blower in "fan only mode"
tinman