View Full Version : Dado Blade Type?
Mountaineer
04-12-2006, 04:00 PM
I looked over the forum but never found anything, I hope I did'nt miss it and make this a repeat question.
What type of Dado Blade is best? stacked dado set, or Adjustable hub (wobble).... I have used the Adj. hub type at work and did notice the bottom of the channel being wider.
Thanks
BadgerDave
04-12-2006, 05:20 PM
You'll find that overall you will obtain much better results using a stacked dado set vs a wobble set.
The Freud SD60x sets do have an adjustable hub which enables you to dial up your dado width but unfortunately you can't cut some of the wider sized dados with them on the Ridgid and some other models of TS's. This is due to the fact that these Freud sets require longer length arbors then those found on many TS's.
wwsmith
04-12-2006, 07:08 PM
I would definately not buy the wobble. Results are not nearly as clean or good as a stacked dado set.
Just my $.02 worth....
WWS
Mountaineer
04-12-2006, 10:50 PM
Thanks for the info
VASandy
04-13-2006, 11:27 AM
I found a relatively inexpensive set made by Mibro at HD. Might have been the "other guys" *coughlowescough*. So far, it's proven to be a decently accurate stacked dado set. I haven't done a whole lot with it yet, but what I have done has been right where it should be!
I agree that stacked dado will always be inherently more accurate than a wobble dado. Just the fact of how a wobble blade works made me leary of them. I'm very pleased with the Mibro set and will, if necessary, upgrade eventaully to a 'better' stacked dado set.
Mountaineer
04-13-2006, 10:34 PM
Thanks for the fine replys, the people here are a great source of information.
Mountaineer
04-27-2006, 11:51 PM
What does anyone think about the Freud Diablo Stack Dado Model DD208?
BadgerDave
04-28-2006, 08:44 AM
The SD208 is a winner. If you don't foresee ever making deep dado cut, say over 1" deep, you might want to consider the SD206. It will save you a little money and its the same set as the 208 only in a 6" version.
wwsmith
04-28-2006, 02:40 PM
I have the 208 and love it. Works great and never had a problem with it. I have never needed the full depth though, so in retrospect I would probably have saved a bit of money and gotten the 206 as BadgerDave suggested.
Reef12
04-29-2006, 08:15 AM
Been using an Amana which had special ground not a problem for me.
Good cut clean no splinter tear out at all.
aggie82cts
05-22-2006, 09:23 PM
Are you using the 208 on your Ridgid saw or another saw?
wwsmith
05-23-2006, 01:21 PM
I am using the 208 on my TS3650 with no problems.
Hector B
05-24-2006, 10:02 PM
I've also picked up the DD208, but I'm confused. I understand the purpose of the shims that come with the set, but I'm looking at them and trying to fiind some indication of what size they are. Don't the manufacturers put that info on them somewhere so you get the right combination for the stack you're building?
wwsmith
05-25-2006, 12:04 PM
Hector B, I have the SD208 and there is a chart on the back of the red plastic case the blades came in that tells me right combination. It is actually on cardboard stock that is affixed to the back of the case.
i used a set of calipers to measure the shims then wrote in permanent marker what size they are.
ps: It would be nice if they labelled them for you though.....maybe a letter is duehttp://www.smileypad.com/v224/Feelings/Cunning-Plan.gif
jdmorr
06-03-2006, 07:07 AM
I though the arbor on the TS did not allow for stacked dados do to a depth cut in the arbor or something?
Gofor
06-03-2006, 06:29 PM
jdmorr: There was a problem on the TS3650 witha batch of arbors where the threads did not go all the way to the shoulder. This allowed the first chipper blade of a stacked router to drop down to thread depth, making it out of round with the other cutters. Some people got replacement arbors. and at least one posted he filled the area with JBWeld successfully. To the best of my knowledge, the problem was corrected at the factory and there are no more "bad" arbors being produced.
The limiting factor on the saw is the thread length on the arbor. All stacked dados work up to a 3/4" stack-up. One model of adjustable dado (wobble type) is wider than 3/4" at the bushing, leaving not enough threads to install the nut on the arbor. (I forget the brand & number) I routinely use a 3/4" stacked dado set-up with no problems.
You can use a 6" or 8" diameter stacked dado. A 6" will give you about 1 3/8" maximum depth (not width) of cut. If you need to go deeper, you will need an 8".
Hope this clears up the confusion:)
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