no hub torque wrench

[HVAC HAWK]

the plumber on the job is looking for a torque wrench that fits on a drill .
they have one but do not know where the company got it .its old. this does both sides of the clamp at the same time.
does any one know where to get one .

[biscuit]

http://www.wheelerrex.com/wrenches3.html

This is the only one I know of that fits on a drill.

Sorry, mabye others will respond.

[HVAC HAWK]

thanks but the one he has ,has 2 - 5/6 chucks on it

[plumbdog10]

Those wrenches have to be re-torqued anyway. Use a 5/16th hex bit in your drill to tighten the no-hub bolts, then use your torque wrench to finish them.

[HVAC HAWK]

yes but the tool does both sides at the same time . then he used the hand wrench to finish .

i will try to get a photo of it next week .

thanks for your help

[plumbdog10]

Yea, yea, yea.

I've heard this for years. I have this special drill bit, drill attachment, impact wrench, etc. And...................there are always an abundance of leaks.

In my opinion, use the cordless to tighten them (evenly), then torque them with the 60psi torque wrench.

I myself am getting very close to outlawing anything but a nut-runner and a torque wrench on my jobs. The problem is that you put togather 800+ no hub bands quickly with the above mentioned equipment, but then spend a week trying to complete a head test. It doesn't add up.

Just my opinion.

[Bob D.]

Nothing beats a torque Seekonk (http://www.seekonk.com/torqstart.html) wrench as far as I am concerned.
I have a T handle model and the L wrench. They are not cheap but they do hold up and work better than any other I have used.

I worked a couple jobs that had the drill adapter you speak of which tightened two bands at once. As the Dog said you have to go back and tighten anyways so they are not that much of a time saver if any at all.

[PLUMBER RICK]

i personally use a cordless impact wrench. it has a 1/4'' hex collet that spins the 5/16'' nut driver at a slow speed till torqued. witht the right feel you don't pop any bands and i'll test it with a torque wrench to make sure it's tight enough.

the impact wrench is much smaller than a cordless drill and much more forgiving as the impact will give you more time to react to the torque than a drill. even a drill with adjustable torque settings.

a real life saver when there are 4 clamps per band.

rick.

[HVAC HAWK]

when i did plumbing 18 yrs ago i used the t handle type wrench .

i just asked about this tool because this plumber was talking about it and he does not have the INTERNET to look .
thats his problem if he has leaks or if he needs to check it after with a hand wrench !!

just trying to help :D

thanks for you input

[shacko]

the plumber on the job is looking for a torque wrench that fits on a drill .
they have one but do not know where the company got it .its old. this does both sides of the clamp at the same time.
does any one know where to get one .

The company that used to sell them was Wheeler/Pilot if they still have them I don't know. Why would anyone want one? they are passe. I just threw one away that was never used and it was at least 30 years old. What I've done for many years is to set your battery drill close to the torque and finish up with a tee handle torque wrench. You have to realize that No-Hub torque is approx. 40-60 inch lbs. the 60 in. lbs. is a safety margin. If you are doing a stack test you should use No-Hub adhesive on the joints. Luck.

[PLUMBER RICK]

The company that used to sell them was Wheeler/Pilot if they still have them I don't know. Why would anyone want one? they are passe. I just threw one away that was never used and it was at least 30 years old. What I've done for many years is to set your battery drill close to the torque and finish up with a tee handle torque wrench. You have to realize that No-Hub torque is approx. 40-60 inch lbs. the 60 in. lbs. is a safety margin. If you are doing a stack test you should use No-Hub adhesive on the joints. Luck.
am i the only plumber that doesn't know what "no hub adhesive" is. or is today april 1st:confused:

dog, it looks like you're the last field plumber left here. give me a heads up:eek:

wheeler/ rex i think


rick.

[Bob D.]

I remember that black goo that Tyler makes (or made) for use with push joints. If the no-hub stuff is similar to that its nasty. Tough to get off your clothes, gloves, or skin. One thing is for sure, the joint will never leak. Heck you will be lucky to even get it apart 12 hours later.

[plumbdog10]

am i the only plumber that doesn't know what "no hub adhesive" is. or is today april 1st:confused:

dog, it looks like you're the last field plumber left here. give me a heads up:eek:

wheeler/ rex i think


rick.

Rick,

Never heard of it, don't need it. I doubt you need it either, guys who know what they are doing don't.