View Full Version : Maple board vs. plywood thickness
Lab309
09-10-2006, 05:17 PM
For some oak bookcases I put together awhile back, I was able to make them out of 3/4in oak veneer plywood and then add an off-the-shelf (HD) 3/4in oak board strip to the shelves and round it over and all that.
I've been asked to do the same thing in maple, and after poking around a bit, maple hardwood plywood comes in 3/4in, but the board lumber is cut 4/4. Now I guess they don't say that it's 1in. just to fool the new guys like me <vbg>.
It does mean I have to buy a jointer-planer to take 4/4 down to 3/4 before I can match the boards to the plywood, yes?
--jim
oldslowchevy
09-10-2006, 06:33 PM
or trim a 1/4" off on the table saw
BadgerDave
09-10-2006, 08:10 PM
If you're goal is to end up with the boards and the plywood to all be the same thickness then yes, a planer would be the easiest way to accomplish that.
danimal1208
09-10-2006, 09:26 PM
Or you could do what I do, and just use this as perfect reason to get a jointer/planer. I'm actively searching for justification now for drill press...
Bob D.
09-10-2006, 10:17 PM
Or use your TS to cut a rabbit to accept the plywood and leave the full 1" (aka 4/4) thickness to give the front edge of the shelf more mass and a little extra stiffness. Use a 1/8 or 3/16 roundover bit to soften the edge if you wish or dress it up with an ogee or other shape bit in your router.
Pipestone Kid
09-11-2006, 09:15 AM
Have you seen the maple board? 4/4 is the rough cut measurement. If it has been milled it is 3/4".
Jim
do you have a friend with a planer?
Is birch available in solid wood, it is a very similar grain and look,
can you find a different source for the lumber that may be planned all ready or a pre made trim,
jmhobbs
09-11-2006, 01:58 PM
Jim,
I agree with Jim the Pipestone Kid's reply. 4/4 doesn't always mean it's exactly 1" thick. Just like 2x4 doesn't mean the stud is exactly 2" x 4". I'm still fairly new at this, but I haven't found a 4/4 board yet that was actually 1" thick.
Measure the maple board if you can. Then decide how to proceed.
Jon
wbrooks
09-11-2006, 06:55 PM
Agree, 4/4 is a rough lumber dimention from the mill. HD will sell it as 3/4 finished size or dressed size
cjh20
09-11-2006, 09:37 PM
If the maple board is S4S, it will probably be 3/4" thick. The ply is probably 23/32" thick. The extra 1/32" can be left proud or sanded (or routed) flush. If the maple board is more than 3/4" thick, you can still leave it proud or trim with a router with a flush cutting bit or even sand it down.
Another way is to rip your maple board to the thickness of the ply. But this will leave the end-grain exposed and may cause some staining issues.
I'm sure you have thought of this and it doesn't work with your design, but on my bookcases, I like to add a 1 1/4" or so thick edging. I like the way it makes the shelves look more substantial.
RODDY
09-24-2006, 03:33 PM
i would just cut my stripps and use a lam trimmer to cut off extra.
Lab309
09-28-2006, 12:50 PM
Thanks for the help. Apologies for the lenght of time to respond. I guess I'm off to investigate planers.
--ji
CheekyMonkeyWrench
09-28-2006, 11:59 PM
Boo!!! do it yourself
kbrinton
10-18-2006, 04:08 PM
I like Bob D's suggestion to cut a rabbet and keep the extra maple. If the wood turns out to be 3/4" finished, I might even cut 1" or 1.5" strips and rotate them to accept a rabbet.
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