10" Table Saw Blade Elevation Lock

[Murph]

Same question as Benn.

Why doesn't the Ridgid 10" have a lock for the blade elevation adjustment?

Murph

[JSchnarre]

Though I can’t speak for those who own a RIDGID table saw, what I can tell you is that I don’t think you will ever have a problem with the blade height dropping. Two reasons: 1. The blade height mechanism is a worm drive type gear arrangement. Power can only be transferred one way through the system. The blade cannot put downward pressure on the crank and cause it to turn. 2. The elevation crank shaft has 2 o-rings that fit inside the cast housing to put resistance on the crank. Between these two features an elevation lock is not necessary. I hope that answers you question. Anyone else who has had experience with the RIDGID table saw feel free to post here.

Jake

[gr8tgreg]

The first time I used a dato blade on my new TS2412 (only six weeks old), I did experience the blade dropping on me as I did my datos (about two dozen 3/4" wide, 3/8 deep datos). I've used the saw often since then, with both the standard blade and dato blade, but I only had the problem that one time. A side-note: Since that first dato experience, I've not been able to get my blade back to parralel with the miters. I've emailed Rigid and am waiting for a reply.

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Gregf

[JSchnarre]

Greg,

I also sent you an e-mail but I thought I would answer here also.

It sounds like you can't get the front trunion to move over at all. The reason is the bevel crank is holding the system tight in one place.

To get the front trunion to move, simply loosen the bolts on the front trunion then turn the bevel crank. You should see the carriage move toward the right. Move the trunion until there is about 1/8” between the blade and the red insert. Another way is to bevel the blade over before loosening the trunion. Then loosen the front trunion and move the carriage to the right. Now you should be able to adjust the rear trunion into parallel with the miter slot. I’m not sure how using a dado would cause the blade to misalign but this should help you get it adjusted.

Leave the motor on the machine when make adjustments since this can effect the heel by 2-3 thousands of an inch. The most exact you should be able to align the machine is to 3 – 4 thousands.

Hope this helps
Jake

[gr8tgreg]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JSchnarre:
[B]Greg,

I also sent you an e-mail but I thought I would answer here also.

It sounds like you can't get the front trunion to move over at all. The reason is the bevel crank is holding the system tight in one place.

To get the front trunion to move,....

From Greg- Thanks a lot! It makes perfect sense, but I didn't know the exact way to go about it. Can't wait to go home and try it (I've got to get a life).

Lover everything else about the saw!