3650 Outfeed Table

[Bob D.]

OK, here's my outfeed table for the 3650.

I wanted the ability to tip the blade over the full 45 deg and be able to install/remove the blade guard w/o having to remove the table. When folded up the full table depth adds 38.5" behind the back edge of the saw table (almost 48" if you measure from the back of the blade). When the extension is folded down the fixed portion provides 14.5" behind the back of the saw table. It's 38" wide, with about 16" to the left of the blade. The fixed table is mounted on two pieces of 1.25" sq. x 0.125" Aluminum tube stock 41.25" long. The tube stock is bolted to two pieces of 0.25" x 3" x 27" Aluminum flat bar. The flat bar is placed between the wing and left edge of the table on the left side and between the outer edge of the right wing and the router table extension. Moving the right side support out to the edge of the wing was done so as not to infringe on the already limited hand clearance near the blade bevel handwheel.

To get some added clearance on the table underside where the motor comes up I shifted the motor as far to the right in the motor mount (when viewed from the rear) and re-aligned the pulleys. This moved the motor over about 1/2". When the blade is tilted over to 45 deg and the blade raised all the way up the fan shield on motor rises up to its highest point. Before making the motor adjustment I measured the clearance and it was only 1/8" below the top of the TS table surface. After sliding the motor over this same measurement was 7/16". This meant I would only have to remove about half the table thickness to have clearance for the motor.

The fixed table sets on four 5/16" bolts which allow for adjusting the table to be at the same plane as the TS table. The folding table section is mounted with a piano hinge and has two adjustable folding legs to support the rear-most portion of the table. The whole assembly can be removed by loosening four locknuts and pulling the table straight up. All that remains is the two pieces of tube stock which extend out about 13.5", even these can be removed by removing three bolts from each w/o affecting adjustment or alignment of the wings or router table. The table can easily be re-installed, setup, and leveled in less than 5 minutes.

Oh, in case you are wondering, the stool is not holding up the table. It does look like it in the one photo.



You can find more photos here:
http://home.comcast.net/~sparc/woodworking.htm

1/11/06 Fixed some typos (darn spell-checker can't spell worth a damn)
1/12/06 Added some additional measurements, revised some wording.
7/2708 Restored the photos that got disconnected from this post somehow.

Oh ya; Patent Pending, All photos Copyright 2005, Bob D.

[KenM]

Very good design and implementation, Bob.
In the first pic, I see adjustable braces running from the saw to the router table. Will you share some info on those, please?
Thanks, again a very good solution for an outfeed table.
Ken

[Bob D.]

The router table braces and the outfeed table legs were made from some sliding door security bars that I had picked up for $2 each a couple years ago at a flea market. They are telescoping aluminum and come with the folding bracket already attached. I have added some thumb screws (not visible in the photos) to be able to lock them in as the friction locking mechanism is not designed to work in a vertical position. Adding the thumbscrews was just a matter of drilling and tapping the outer tube so accept the thumbscrew. Then you just tighten the screw down on the inner tube at the desired length.

You could easily make a similar leg from a couple pieces of tube or square stock that telescoped one inside the other (3/4 x 3/4 scoped inside 1 x 1 for instance). Add a rubber pad on the foot end and use a couple short pieces of angle for brackets to attach to the underside of the table. I use a lot of aluminum because I have a source close by where I can find just about any shape/size for scrap prices ($2/lb), you could use steel or other materials, whatever you have available.

[KenM]

Thanks Bob.
Ken

[ironhat]

Nice implementation. I wish my shop wasn't so narrow! Anyway, I was wondering where you go the tray on the left side of your saw to hold misc attachments.
TIA,
Chiz

[Bob D.]

Chiz,

The wire rack was a closeout item for $9.99 at Sears made for their Craftsman Table Saw. There were two racks in the set, I put one on my TS and the other on my RAS. If you look close in the first pic you can see the RAS in the background and the rack underneath on the left side of the saw.

Ya know, the more I look at the wire rack I think it would be easy to make your own from a short piece of wire shelving. It's basically only two bends and you're done. Pop a few of those plastic caps on the cut ends and hang it and you are done.


Edit 2/17/06: The wire racks are still available from Sears, I found them on their site today, but they are $19.99.

Craftsman Saw Basket
Sears item #00932040000 Mfr. model #32040

[stephenl]

In looking at your setup, I'm wondering about you dust collection. Is that a box underneath that the PVC is connected to?

Steve

[Bob D.]

Sort of. It's a sloped bottom the pitches from the front down to the rear. To the rear leg gusset I added a piece of hardboard to close in an area big enough to accept a 4" closet flange which I used as my connector to my DC hose. The sides were also closed in using hardboard. The sloped (about 40 deg) bottom brings all the sawdust to the rear. I have not as yet closed in the back of the saw cabinet where the belt and blade guard are as some have done. I will probably work on that next. I have three tools that are serviced by that one dust hose which drops down in the center of the shop (no hoses on the floor for me, too much of a trip hazard), the TS-3650, a DW-735 Planer, and the Delta X5 6" Jointer. I unplug the hose and connect to whichever tool I am using, and I drag it over to the BS when needed. PITA but that's what I got for now.

[FINER9998]

Really Great Application. I Especially Like The Adjustability Of The Fixed Table, And By Extension (no Pun Intended) The Outfeed Table. I'm Sure I'll Have A Few Questions Regarding The Supports But For Now, Congrats On A Trully Elegant Solution To A Sometimes Difficult Problem.

[Bob D.]

Thanks everyone for the comments and I am glad you like my solution. I'll post some additional photos and comments later when I have time, maybe later today if I get out there to snap a few more pics.

Ok, here they are;



Hey, that table top is nice and clean huh? I polished it up just for these pics. No, not really, but I do take care of it. My 3650 is now 2 years old, and gets used at least once a week. This photo shows the 1/4" x 3" Aluminum flat bar installed between the left wing and the table top, see the bright colored strip?



This shows the 1.25" sq. tube bolted to the flat bar under the table and how it supports the fixed portion of the outfeed table. Leveling/alignment of the outfeed table is done by adjusting the four bolts that attach the fixed part to the square tube. This is easily done by laying a straight edge across the TS top in line with the bolts and adjusting the height of the outfeed table to just below that of the TS top.

In this photo you can also see the recess I routed on the underside of the table to achieve the clearance needed for the motor to tilt over to 45 degrees. This was a tip I picked up from another member when he made his outfeed table, but I re-positioned my motor slightly to gain a little more clearance (see my first post in this thread about that).

Also, in the second photo above you'll notice a piece of angle which runs the width of the table. This is a piece of 3/4" Aluminum angle roughly 30" long which adds strength to the fixed table section to prevent flexing. I didn't notice any, but added it just to be sure and keep the fixed section flat.