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painting steel....

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  • painting steel....

    I have just welded up a 15 inch tall dog feeder. Sorry no digital camera.

    I cleaned the metal/steel with acetone. I used a red oxide primer, and then used rustoleum hammertone spray pain.
    When it dried, allowing 24 hours, I sprayed a clear gloss to protect it.
    This is when the challenge surfaced! The paint began to pucker!
    Then I could actually peal off the pain including the primer...UGLY!!!!!!

    What did I do wrong? I have painted this way many times [but not with a hammertone finish] and never had this occur.

    The rustoleum hammertone can did not say anything about problems with a clear coat over their paint.

    I just spent the last 2 hours stripping off the paint and getting the project back to bare metal.
    I'd appreciate some comments before I try again....

    Bottom line is if I had access to powder coating I'd go that way; but sadly I'm limited to cans of spray paint.


    Cactus Man

  • #2
    Re: painting steel....

    Loose the primer, and go with brush on rust-oleum.


    • #3
      Re: painting steel....

      I painted a steel siding building about 12 years ago, I used 1-2-3 primer on the siding. It has not peeled in a single spot. I believe in this primer whole heartedly. Rust-Oleum is also a damn good product as TozziWelding suggested, so these are two good decisions you can make.
      Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

      A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!


      • #4
        Re: painting steel....

        You probably sprayed a lacquer-based clear coat over an enamel based color coat. Laquer or lacquer thinner (as well as MEK {methyl-ethly-ketone} etc will bubble an oxidized-cure coating). You can spray enamel over lacquer but not the reverse.
        It is hard to tell what you get in spray cans anymore. The term "enamel" now only refers to the gloss. It may be laquer, alkyd enamel, varnish, or water-based acrylic. Without reading the contents, you can't tell, and sometimes that does not help.
        Most clear coats that are not water-based have MEK, lacquer thinner, ot other strong solvents in them. It is best to make sure the underlying coat is fully cured. That can be up to 30 days for an alkyd enamel coat, and if the humidity is too high, the enamel may never fully harden.
        The fact that the primer also peeled up indicates that it was not fully dry; it also reacted to the color coat; or the metal still had some oil or silicone on it. Acetone dries too fast to wipe up the dissolved oils, just dispersing them across the surface. You may want to use a slower-drying solvent to clean the metal. Denatured alcohol usually works well. Wipe it with a wet rag, and then dry it up with a clean rag. This will pick up the oils dissolved by the alcohol. Naptha (charcoal starter) will also work, but is more flammable and worse on the environment.

        Practicing at practical wood working


        • #5
          Re: painting steel....

          You hit the nail on the head Gofor. I tried a different clear coat on a test piece of steel and no problem. You are so right as to who knows what is inside the spray can of paint. I also used alcohol to wipe down the project.

          By the way, humidity is not an issue we hit 109F

          Thanks for the help.

          Cactus Man