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The Stainless Steel Thread

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  • The Stainless Steel Thread

    There have been several threads that contained good information about stainless steel in various applications so I thought that compiling a list of where the relevant threads were would be a good idea. that way people from the different trades who have questions about the material could easily locate the information in 1 location.

    If you have additional information that you would like to add feel free to post it in this thread.

    from this thread

    there are the following quotes

    Originally posted by yasudaplumbing View Post
    I prefer not to use stainless steel braided (Watts & ProFlo), because I've seen too many burst lines in the past. The SS braids tend to rust in cabinets with household cleansers stored in them. Almost every single customer has an open can of Ajax or Comet under their sink, or an open box of SOS pads. I've noticed where ever the SS line has a loop in it, is where it bursts. The tension from the loop splits the rusted braids on the outer side, then the rubber hose ruptures. Usually you can't see if they are rusting because it's dark in the cabinet and the loops are usually behind the sink.

    Because of this I was one of the last Die Hards to use C.P. tubing with the prick head and my tubing bender......I have evolved in the last 2 years,

    Now I use BrassCraft Polymer Braided supply lines, which used to be SS braided originally. I feel that it's a better braided line which is more resistant to those under sink chemicals.

    For Dishwashers the part #'s are:
    • B1 - 72 DWF -----3/8" compression both ends - 72" long
    • BL3 - 72 DWF ----1/2" compression both ends - 72" long
    For Ice Makers the part #'s are:
    • B0 - 60 IM -----1/4" compression both ends - 60" long
    • These also come in 72, 84, 96, and 120 inches long as well
    If you are gonna install a Bosch dishwasher (easiest to level & plumb by the way), you definitely will need a flexible line.
    I have done it with 3/8" copper tubing and a bender (<----my die hard days,LOL) but it is a ROYAL P.I.A.

    Originally posted by ToUtahNow View Post
    Keep in mind standard kitchen cleaning supplys will cause a SS supply to fail. Many of the manufacturers are switching to a mylar which looks like SS because of this.

    from this thread

    Originally posted by Disaster View Post
    Good info. I think a lot of people mistakingly assume stainless steel is harder and stronger than carbon steel. This is often not the case. One of the biggest difficulties, working with stainless is that it work hardens. This makes it difficult to form. The 305 stainless used to make screws is purposely designed to allow formability. It sacrifices strength for this. Some of the coatings they have developed for carbon screws are pretty incredible. One might be better off, using coated carbon, vs. stainless...especially if you end up having to overdrill the whole and coat each stainless fastener with lubricant.

    This same thing is true with knife blades. I've talked to many people that think because it says "stainless" on a knife blade they are getting a great quality blade. Don't count on it. Most of the cheap knifes with "stainless" blades use cheap stainless that is easy to form...which makes it a terrible material for a knife blade. I knife needs to be made from a steel that can be edge hardened so the sharpness will last.
    Originally posted by RiR View Post
    you mention that you are using ASTM 305? screws. This is an almost unknown, and definately never used alloy in Europe. It doesn't even have an SS (Swedish Standard) Nr. The mixture, 18.12 is using more Nickel, and less Chrome than 316, to up the corrosion resistance. When the nickel is "out of balance" with the chrome, you get an undesired brittle alloy.
    Your problem will be less using 304, or 316 depending on the required corrosion resistance.
    However VASandy and CWSmith are on the right track, avoid using impact drivers on stainless, as it "work hardens". Use all the torque you want, that way Stainless is amazingly strong.
    Originally posted by RiR View Post
    Sorry Disaster, it was your answer I was refering to! As regards Knife blades, you are right on. Normal stainless is useless for this. Knifeblade stainless otherwise known as "Martensitic" Stainless Steel, contains carbon, to enable hardening. Carbon is usually a No-No in stainless, as it causes intercrystaline corrosion. As a rule, good Martensitic comes from France or Switzerland. The percentages in a succesfull Martensitic alloy are down to 1/1000, and are of course, closely guarded secrets.
    Having said this, some of the finest Martensitic blades are from the USA, Buck Knife for example. I assume that the steel is US made. It would be nice to know if this was the case.
    from this thread

    Originally posted by franklie View Post
    If you use stainless steel bolts make sure that the bolts are NOT in contact with anything rusty. A stainless steel bolt in contact with rust can begin to rust as well.

    this applies not only to martensitic and ferritic stainlesses but austenitic stainless as well. the typical bolt is a 302 austenitic stainless. rust stains on porcelain can cause a corrosion cell to start on the "stainless" bolt.

    my apologies for the thread hi-jack

  • #2
    Re: The Stainless Steel Thread

    This is the only kind of stainless I like !


    • #3
      Re: The Stainless Steel Thread

      Originally posted by Newman View Post
      This is the only kind of stainless I like !



      • #4
        Re: The Stainless Steel Thread

        As some of you know, I work (only) in stainless, and have my own little firm here in Norway. Of course I love stainless, but like any good material, it often requires special knowledge , to get the best result.
        Issues like avoiding corrosion, & using the right alloy bolts is no problem with the right know-how.
        I would be very enthusiastic about a Stainless heading on the site, but realise that there must be a demand for it. You can find me on the forum, or if you're pressed for time, then direct mail me. I'll be glad to help.