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  • Rd 8000

    i posted this in another forum but it seems most inquiries about the rd8000 are here ... so, here it is.
    bought a low hour rd8000 generator that had no output, checked the rotor windings and they have continuity between the two commutators and are not grounded. brushes and commutators are good,
    checked the stator output at the gen head and only have 2 volts between lead and ground and about 4 volts between the two output leads.
    i thought maybe the AVR might be bad but when i apply 12volts to the brushes ( avr disconected ) i get nothing, i thought i should at least get a little " spark " when i touched the wires, nothing, also, no surge or jump in output voltage.
    i dont know what voltage range the AVR send to the rotor windings, but i simply touched the brushes terminals, did not make permanent contact, this was simply a test, and as far as i can tell the rotor windings are dead... even thou the ohm meter does show continuity, i dont remember the reading now. anyone know what voltage the avr does send... i should of gotten a spike in the output or a spark from the winding contacts when i touches them... since basically i was creating a short / load thru the windings... i also figured that i might have lost residual magnetism and sending power thru the windings might bring it back... sadly it did nothing.
    any generator knowledge out there...

  • #2
    Re: Rd 8000

    With 12 volts (a fully charged battery, at least a lawn tractor sized one) attached to the brushes AND THE AVR COMPLETELY OUT OF THE UNIT you should have at least 75-95 volts output at the stator terminal block. If not, check rotor resistance at the slip rings. Usually around 65 ohms (I've seen them between 55 and 80). Then reattach the brushes and measure rotor resistance at the brush terminals. If there's a significant difference, take some very fine sandpaper and clean the slip rings, then retest.
    Last edited by Doctordeere; 04-17-2012, 03:34 PM.
    "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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    • #3
      Re: Rd 8000

      Doctordeere, thanks alot.
      i'll check again tomorrow, in case i need to replace the generator head, how does the rotor come loose from the end of the crank, is it on a taper, splines, keyed shaft, and do i need a special puller.
      thanks again.
      Eric

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      • #4
        Re: Rd 8000

        It's a tapered shaft. Assuming you're removing the rotor to replace it, just loosen the long bolt and strike the end of the rotor with a deadblow hammer. A few hits and it should come loose.
        "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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        • #5
          Re: Rd 8000

          checked it again, its a dead rotor, i do get a reading of 98 when i set the ohm meter at 200,000 ohm on all other settings i get no continuity....
          ordered a new gen head, $255 plus $15 shipping, i only paid $100 for the generator so im not in it too deep, even thou more than i hoped for...!
          you said to hit the end with a dead blow, obviously its a sideways blow, are you talking about the end where the brushes are... im surprised a dead blow will break the taper, i would of thought a brass hammer would of been needed or a puller, it must be a pretty mild taper. thanks for sharing your expertise, gives us, the generator newbies a lot of help and peace of mind taking the guess work out of things.
          food for thought, what if the generator was run at 1/2 rpm (1800 ) and both legs of the 220 circuit used for 110 application, each leg would be putting out something like 60 volts...?
          would that work for light loads or would the regulator ( AVR ) fight you the whole way and keep raising the voltage to compensate. of course the cycles would be off but it would not matter for some type of loads...
          Eric

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          • #6
            Re: Rd 8000

            Yes, a sideways blow delivered to the rotor's end bearing. Several blows may be needed, but it will pop off.

            If you run the gen at 1800 RPM, you will have a 30Hz gen, which won't work with any AC powered gadget available anywhere in the free world... and that's only if the AVR will even think of working at that level. Not to mention that the engine will be way, way far off the power band at 1800 RPM. Like about 5-6 HP versus it's normal 14 HP (give or take) at 3600.
            "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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