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Protecting TS table from rust

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  • Protecting TS table from rust

    Just got done purchasing my Ridgid TS and TP1300 but I am worried about rust forming the the cast TS table over time. My new 24x30 garage will not have gas heat until next year and presently using LP only while working. Besides waxing the table what other measures can I take?

    [ 10-27-2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: Woodchuck ]

  • #2
    I made a plywood cover for mine making sure it covered the whole top....this helps immensely and gives you a workbench when the saw is not in use.
    Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>


    • #3
      i had the same problem and waxing it was the best advice i got. must use a "paste wax" though and not a "car wax"

      the plywood idea will also work. reason being the rust comes from surface condensation sitting on it. by keeping the moisture off of it stops the rust



      • #4
        Just make sure you don't put anything on your tabletop that can trap moisture. I once forgot about that and left a metal tool on top. The only place I have a dab of rust right now on the table saw top is right where that tool was sitting. Also, do not use plastic to cover the table. It will hold moisture under it and speed up rust development.

        BTW, watch out about what kind of heater you have. It should be a vented heater. Even though they are less efficient than ventless (76% for the direct-vent versus 99% for the ventless), they don't put products of combustion into the air (carbon monoxide and moisture). The moisture can speed up rust. When I installed my heater a few weeks ago, I chose a direct vent heater. It brings in outside air for combustion and then puts the exhaust back out. This is also safer if you have combustible chemicals in your garage or other heater space. The direct-vent heater will cost more to operate but I would suspect worth it for the safety and longevity of your tools. For a suggestion, Orbis makes a nice heater that might be cheaper to install compared to those that heating companies will suggest. I have one and really like it.


        • #5
          I have used Minwax on my saw top with great results. Clean of any existing rust of with a scotch brite pad and WD40. Wipe dry with a rag and then clean off the residual WD 40 with mineral spirits. Then wax with paste wax. HD has the minwax paste and many supermarkets have Johnsons furniture paste wax. They both work great.

          Good luck.



          • #6
            Thanks for all the help. I have cleaned it and presently using a carnauba paste wax. Is this OK?


            • #7
              All I have read warns to stay away from wax containing silicones as any ruboff on workpiece may cause finishing problems. If using automobile products just be sure there are no silicones in them. I like Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax which is a " clear paste, blended of carnauba and other fine waxes in turpentine and mineral spirits". It can put a super finish on wood too! The main thing I like about it is the odor, it is not as potent as Johnsons. I have purchased it at True Value Hardware.

              I have a cotton thermal blanket that we retired and I fold it to cover the table. It comes to about four layers since it is a king size. This appears to give quite a bit of coverage while allowing it to breathe. As others have pointed out, you do not want to trap any moisture under any cover.

              I have given some thought to making some containers like cut up milk jugs and using Damp-rid or similar products hanging under the table wings. I do not think that this stuff is corrosive but I would research more before I did that.

              [ 12-28-2002, 10:07 PM: Message edited by: Bob S ]


              • #8
                I use Johnson's paste wax each time I finish using my tools for the day. My t/s top was blanchard ground 7 years ago and then polished and sits in an unheated shop when I am not out there. I have had no rust problems so far. I just clean the top, and wax a good coating and polish it a bit. sure works well for me.


                • #9
                  Ridgid does not finely gournd the tops of their saws, and this keeps the cost down.
                  What I did was take air powered DA sander (did auto body repair for 17 years) and took 80 grit after the top and wings. Then went to 150. Smoothed it out great.
                  I run a ventless LP heater at the present until the NG furnace can be afforded next fall. For fast heat I use a 200 btu LP torch. Talk about Moisture draw!
                  Every other sunday morning I'm up brite and early at 6am with steel wool and paste wax. It's a pain, but until the consistant heat next year, is what I have to deal with.
                  What rusts appiers first on is the Joint Planner, even if it's not used in that 2 week period.
                  Rust control is a never ending battle, especially in a Michigan climate. Just make sure you set a schedule to deal with it. Experiment with different things. You got a good start by asking questions. Run with it. You'll be fine.
                  Good Luck!
                  John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\"></a>